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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/12/2013 in Posts

  1. I can't wait till is over! 🙂
    6 points
  2. These circular discussions are entertaining, but I’m waiting to see how it will be run, which depends, I’m sure, on local rules, CDC guidance, and best practices in play at the time. I’ll likely make my decision about two weeks out based on knowns at that time. I feel for the organizers, have paid my registration including the banquet, and bought a trophy package. I don’t want a refund if it cancels, just hoping it helps in some small way. If it doesn’t cancel, it’s just a choice we all have to make based on what we think the level of risk is for ourselves and others. I have my own ideas, and each person should evaluate their own risk tolerance. My profession is all about risk management, so I look at this the same way. joe
    6 points
  3. Latest from the CDC on the Delta variant. https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/vaccines/fully-vaccinated.html I plan on wearing a mask. Not as a political statement, but for the same reason I would wear a bandage if I had a cut. I am 71 and fully vaccinated, but prudent use of any health aid where there is a risk of severe illness or injury is common sense.
    5 points
  4. Hi. My last racer, Polish PZL P6, made from scratch in 1/32 scale, from National Air Racers in Cleveland 1931 More on the topic here: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/84035-pzl-p6-1931-from-scratch-scale-132/ Best regards, Marcin IPMS Polska
    5 points
  5. The other alternative--one I favor, and one I've discussed on this forum before--is to limit out of box models to being just that--out of the box. Period. No added seat belts, rigging, spark plug wires, etc., unless it comes in the kit and is shown on the instruction sheet. Aftermarket decals should be allowed, but that's as far as it really should go. People then argue along the lines of "well, the model will seem to be lacking if I don't add seat belts" or "it won't be accurate if there are no railings" (that one still confuses me, since, last time I checked, accuracy was not a judging criteria). My answer? Entering out of box is a decision the modeler makes. You have consciously decided to limit what you can and cannot do if you decide to enter OOB. Don't like the limitations? Then simply don't restrict yourself by entering OOB--enter the "Open" categories and let the chips fall where they may. To be sure, I have seen OOB models win categories over a dozen fully detailed models because, as Chris points out, the more stuff you add, the more opportunity there is for mistakes. As far as multi-media "high tech" (aka ProfiPack, etc.) go, the work around is as Ed pointed out--split them into traditional (all plastic) and mixed media.
    5 points
  6. 1/4 scale bust of Thulsa Doom by Kent Kidwell Dave
    4 points
  7. Good to see the Eboard mixing with the crowd.... Gil
    4 points
  8. Finished my A-3B bomber this evening. Started with the CollectAire 1/48 resin EA-3B, so I had to saw off the plain tail and convert the backside by adding the gun stinger and rear radar bulge. The side door and windows had to be eliminated and the nose "sharpened" a bit too. This is one of CA's better, later edition kits with the wingfold option, dropped flaps and slats, and PE parts for the cockpit. I chose these markings (Caracal decals) to match the CA resin A-5A Viglante bomber (converted from the RA-5C) I'd built some years ago. And in-progress pics... Wing assembly test fitting Tail conversion work Side door and windows filled Engine assemblies The CA resin A-5A Viglante bomber that it matches... Comments, critiques, and questions welcome, as always! Cheers! Gil
    4 points
  9. I got this kit in a grab bag of kits I bought. It's from the 1956 molds and even had the pilot's head molded in halves integral to the fuselage sides. There are many inaccuracies and omissions, so to build it 'right' would be a real waste of time as there are now many other much better representations, including Airfix's own excellent re-tooled one. But I decided to do it just for fun, so I did it as a desk model and since it was to be in flight, I added the 'spinning' prop. I also rigged it, which was not called for in the instructions, and added the antenna, which you may notice is the wrong configuration, but since there were so many other 'problems' and it was simpler to do this way, I settled for it amongst all the other inaccuracies, which includes the markings. The kit's decals were useless, so I got some out of the spares box. They actually belong to a Hawker Fury of First Squadron, but hey, in for a penny in for a pound, inaccuracy-wise.
    4 points
  10. What is there to say about the Sopwith Camel? It is one of the iconic aeroplanes of WWI, probably the most well known from the Royal Flying Corps/Royal Air Force to even the novice aviation buff. And helped out no doubt by a certain cartoon beagle and his never ending quest to defeat the Red Baron. This is Monogram’s 1979 retool of Aurora’s 1956 vintage kit. I added a few bits to the interior, and detailed a few exterior bits. Rigging is steel wire and EZ Line, paints are Xtracolor, Humbrol, and Testors enamels. Decals are by Eagle Strike for a Camel from 45 Squadron flown in Italy in summer 1918 by Lt. C.M. Masters. posed with my Oeffag Albatross, my first grown up biplane build from a few years ago And ready for the dawn patrol Thanks for looking, comments and critiques are welcome
    4 points
  11. Well the postman brought this a few hours ago. Thank you to the gentleman from another site who found this at a local shop for a great price and offered to pick it up and send it to me! I love the “painting guide for lozenge pattern camouflage” labeling... on such a large subject that’s gonna drive me crazy! But then again, I used to parachute out of perfectly good airplanes in the middle of the night, so I have screw loose upstairs somewhere...
    4 points
  12. Finally, after many years, this is finished. I can say that there were not wo pieces in the entire build that fit together easily. And Trumpeter found ways to take one part and make four out of it. I will say it is a huge plane and I do love Navy schemes. Finished with Squadrons decals Dave
    4 points
  13. Hi to all, I present my latest work performed with the MWP technique (Metal Work Panels) or with the complete covering of the model with aluminum panels (self-adhesive tape). This is the Hong Kong Models kit for the 1/32 scale B-25 J Mitchell 'The Strafer' model: the kit has been further improved with the following optional accessories: The version chosen (optional Zotz Decals) is the following: North American B-25 J Mitchell "Lady Lil" (correct nose for this version ) Hong Kong Models kit 1/32 scale model - version: 498thBs "Falcons", 345bth Bomber Group " Air Apaches" 5th AF in Philippines, May 1945 image posted for exclusive technical and historical reference for this thread this is the technique (sample from the wip) used to cover the model with ultra-thin and self-adhesive aluminum panels (MWP technique) : Happy surfing: cockpit interior (extracted from wip): below you can better appreciate the metal oxidation process on the engine nacelles (extracted from the wip): internal bomb compartment (extracted from the wip): Thanks for the attention. for more info & pics :http://www.adventurephotomodels.com George
    4 points
  14. "Why being required to wear a mask upsets so many, ....is such an unbearable burden....I will never understand." Agreed. It's meant to protect others, in case you're infected and don't know it. To me, not wearing a mask is like purposely farting in public, only with possibly fatal consequences.
    4 points
  15. OK, my previous post skirted the edge or trolling and I was told by others how rude and so forth that I was. I apologize for any offense I gave. No one was talking about it (the previous post on the subject was like 3 weeks prior) and I figured it would get some discussion going. It did. I was just a little too - as my fellow Phoenix chapter members remind me often - a little too curmudgeonly. We have to be realistic about whether or not the show can go on. As was just pointed out, work schedules, travel arrangements and not incurring a cancellation penalty at hotels and the like all come into play and require some advance notice. And over and above us regular attendees, what about the vendors? They really need some advance time to know if things are a go or not. Beyond schedules and such, there is the matter of safety precautions if the show does still happen. Will the Nats organizers REQUIRE everyone to wear a mask? No exceptions. This is not a political issue, it is a health issue. And how will social distancing be carried out in the vendor room (how far apart will the vendor tables be and how many people allowed in to the vendor space at any one time) and in the model room? Nats are crowded. Model tables are crowded. How do you avoid that. And then the judging - and yes, I am a judge of many years standing. Judges crowd together to examine the models. How is that to be done SAFELY? And what about the banquet? Can you even consider a banquet when the proper spacing likely cannot be arranged (and if it can, I would like to hear that from the chapter organizers) - and how do you social distance when the awards are announced and everyone crowds into the banquet room. I don't see how this can all be done. What I found so upsetting to me - and I still do - is the silence from those in charge of this Nats. Considering everything involved, that is simply unacceptable - maybe I'm the only one that finds the silence so, or maybe I've just missed some responses from them, but I would think others among our fraternity would also find what I perceive as silence to be unacceptable. I truly do not see how this Nats can be put on this year. And that's not rude or uncaring or anything like that. Yes, going is everyone's individual choice, but we should not have to be in a position of deciding which is a greater priority - our possible health or our hobby. Leaders sometimes have to make decisions which are not popular among a few or even many, but they have to make those decisions which are in the best interest of everyone. And before anyone pops up with an anecdotal story about how they attended this or that meeting or contest and everyone is fine, etc., just look at the numbers. Texas is a hotspot. As is my own state of Arizona. This virus is real. It is not going to magically fade away overnight. It is not a media opportunity. It is not the flu. It is real. And for those of us in the higher risk categories, it can be deadly. But, of course, we still want to go (we modelers are really just big little kids and we want what we want and we do not want to be disappointed and so many of us will go despite the risks) and that is why those in charge, whether at the national or local level need to make a realistic appraisal and acknowledge that this is a lost year - for the sake of everyone's health and peace of mind. Would that be a disappointing decision? Of course. We've had 3 Nats in Phoenix and I was very much involved with the first 2. I know the work and effort that goes into a Nats by those who put it on. I know how disappointing and possibly costly cancelling a Nats would be. But I see how much more costly in human terms it could be if it does go on and people get sick and possibly die. That is something no one could then wash their hands of. That is why I plead with the leadership to do what is necessary. For all our sakes. Kevin Wenker
    4 points
  16. My model is the Italeri 1/72 scale Fiat CR-32 Chirri." It represents an aircraft assigned to XXIII Grupo Caccia, Aviazione Legionaria. The unit was led by Lieutenant Colonel Andrea Zotti and based at Puig Moreno, Spain, June-July 1938. The unit formed part of the Italian contingent fighting for the Nationalist cause during the Spanish Civil War. I used the Osprey Fiat CR-32 Aces of the Spanish Civil War (Aircraft of the Aces 94) for inspiration; profile 28. I wanted to model Zotti's aircraft; he flew "3-4", but I only had the decals for "3-6". The model was built out-of-the-box except for the rigging. Took me 3-months to figure out I can't paint Italian camouflage with an airbrush freehand and another 3-months and a lot of Tamiya tape to manage that effort. I enjoyed the build; never worked harder to complete a model...
    4 points
  17. The sarcophagus was a lot of fun Dave
    3 points
  18. I built this several years ago and it included my crude and 1st attempt at a base diorama.
    3 points
  19. No.....as usual, you ignore everyone's answer that what YOU think is important, is not; and continue to argue the point. You've had at least 2 (or more) national judges with over 20yrs experience tell you that your example is just a part of judging, and we cannot always tell which way to go, or catch everything, or always be right. When YOU judge, feel free to try to solve this dilemma in a way that satisfies you, as none of us can do so. Gil
    3 points
  20. I'm sure that you've all heard the phrase "my eyes are bigger than my stomach"? Meaning don't bite off more than you can chew. I've always been intrigued by dioramas. The stories that they tell can be awesome. I've always felt that the best aspect of a good diorama is one that each new time that you look at it you find some new hidden detail that you missed the previous time. I finally decided, a few years back, that I was going to build my first diorama. Being a car guy it almost made sense that I would do a garage with vehicles, tools, supplies, etc. I also like nature so I wanted to incorporate some added outdoors scene as well. So, one thing led to another and the next thing you know my design is way out of control and taking up a tremendous amount of space. It was fun but finding somewhere to store it/display it when it was done was no easy task. I also only took this to one contest after it was done because of the size and weight. Here it is. I framed the garage completely out of wood. Removable roof, real shingles, opening garage door and as much detail as I could throw at it without it becoming too busy. It was great learning experience that mainly taught me that if I ever did any more dioramas, (which I have) to keep the size in check.
    3 points
  21. I made this small diorama/vignette with figures from Master Box and sunflowers from Fredericus Rex. The figures are made right out of the box. I did add a Tamiya figure and an resin figure, those are the guys in the background deep in the sunflowers. The MB figures are very well cast with clean crisp detail. The sunflower kits are laser cut paper and are a bit tricky and time consuming, but I like the results. Each packet makes 14 flowers, I used three, I wanted the sunflower field dense like the reference photo. The base is a piece of foam board laminated to a thick styrene sheet covered with spackle and static grass and grass tufts. The figures and the flowers are painted with a mix of Tamiya, Vallejo model colors and a bit of artist gouache. Gouache is an opaque watercolor that dries with a super flat finish, it also mixes well with model acrylics and can really punch up the colors. The photo of the abandon BT-7 in the sunflower field was the inspiration for this project. Dennis
    3 points
  22. This is one of the Reaper miniatures, Joy the Ice Fairie. I primed with Tamiya Fine White, bock painted with MSP Color and Vallejo and shaded with oils. A fun figure to paint.
    3 points
  23. Hi, In this diorama, I tried to portray the battle of Hue City scene of Stanley Kubrick's cult movie "FULL METAL JACKET". First of all i apologize for my bad english. Scale 1/35 M41 Walker Bulldog Tamiya 35055 Figures US Armoured Troops Tamiya MM217 Hope you like it.
    3 points
  24. This is the Eduard 1:72 Albatros D.Va, finished at Lt. Walter Wolf's Jasta 5 plane from June-August 1917. The kit is OK but it's 20 years old and is missing some details (tachometer and gun mounts in the cockpit, radiator inflow and outflow pipes, etc.). I dressed up the details a bit and then used Print Scale's decals sheets (separate ones for the individual markings and for the Bavarian pattern). If you've ever hung wallpaper, you have a leg up with that Bavarian pattern - not fun applying it across a compound curve, and the entire Albatros D.V fuselage is a compound curve! It's rigged with .1mm nickel-silver "rod" from Albion Alloys, and features some Cooper Details wheels and Mini World Spandaus (although darned if you can see 'em in there!). An article will be in the Journal at some point.
    3 points
  25. I wanted to post progress photos of my build of the Tamiya 1/32 Mosquito. It would be great to read comments on how I can improve. Several photos were posted in the “techniques“ forum where i received very productive comments and i have put an aircraft weathering how-to book and some weathering products on my wishlist for Xmas. There is a specific issue that i wanted to discuss (although there is nothing i can do about it now). The wheel/tire assembly consisted of many pieces in order to mimic the flat spot at ground contact. I took great care in putting all of it together. However, when I mounted the nacelle to the wing/fuselage, i was very disappointed to find out that the flat spot on the tire is not flush with the surface. You have to get down and close to see it but there is definitely a triangle of light that shouldn’t be there. If anyone out there built this model i would love to hear wether you also had any issue with this detail? thanks for looking! Stuart
    3 points
  26. Today, it was back to work on the Camel. First priority, clean up the seam gap on top of the fuselage Add some strip styrene shims sand smooth and paint... I also test fitted the cowling and guns... more in a couple of days
    3 points
  27. "Kuklinski's Principle of Appearance: A half-built scratch built kit impresses people with your skill; a completed scratch built kit looks just like any other model." I have included a picture of my in-progress scratch built 1/25 scale FWD P-2 crash fire truck. I have been working on this since March, 2020. The body is more of less complete, except for the battery compartment (the opening on the lower, center of the body). Everything is pretty much scratch built. It's about 16 inches long, 5 inches high and about 4 1/2 inches wide. The tires are resin from American Industrial Truck Models, and some parts from the AMT American LaFrance pumper kit (mainly just the seats). The next "adventure" is building the transmission, steering, and engine assemblies. I have more pictures but I can't seem to download them. I have a question for you folks: I need to scratch built two "straight six cylnder" gas engines. Any suggestions on where these can be found, or modified? I may have to scratch build these too.
    3 points
  28. I was out of town and away from my bench on Tuesday and Wednesday so no progress then. But yesterday I finally got the fuselage assembled. and unfortunately despite all the test fitting and sanding, I still have a bit of a gap behind the cockpit from the added fuel tank. But that should not be too difficult to fill. And what can be seen of all the added detail inside up front... Also I did a bit of grinding with my Dremel to thin outbthe cowling edges Next up... seam filling and clean up...
    3 points
  29. Today’s progress report: So today I completed my intended goals for yesterday. I added instrument decals to the IP, RAF WWII type, rather than the WWI type that I had planned to use but were invisible because they needed to be applied over a white background. Then I drybrushed and touched up the seat And lastly, I touched up the inside colors. Next session I can install all the interior parts and close it all up.
    3 points
  30. One small update from yesterday’s work: I forgot to get a better shot to show the sidewall wood grain effort and now that the oil wash on the engine has dried and I do not need to worry about it staining my photo booth, here’s a photo of the engine
    3 points
  31. There's one other lesson I've learned over the years about buying model kits...... My very first Nats was in Atlanta in 1978. I didn't even know they had a vendors area and sold models! Talk about the gates of heaven opening up for me..... Anyway, I found a 1/48 Aurora SBC Helldiver...at that time the ONLY game in town for that subject in 1/48, AND Aurora was "out of production". The guy wanted EIGHT DOLLARS for it!! Now remember, this is 1978....you could still occasionally find Aurora stuff on the shelves in old hardware stores and dime stores for their original prices of anywhere from $.75 to $2.00....so NO WAY was I gonna fork over $8 for a kit I might find on the shelf for $2! Long story short....2yrs later I paid $15 dollars for it! And THUS LEARNED THE LESSON: If you WANT a kit, buy it at the best price you can WHEN you find it! You may find a better bargain later, but maybe not. It may be re-released or a newer/better one may be put out, but maybe not. More importantly, most of those "holy grail" kits only get MORE expensive as you try to wait for the cheaper/newer alternative! Gil
    3 points
  32. Hah! Preposterous. Nothing is too expensive... As long as my wife doesn't find out. Actually, I like the way Pete frames his answer around relativity. Between a large stash, lots of reference material and aftermarket "stuff", I'm sure I've spent "too much". But my hobbies before modeling were drag racing, muscle cars (primarily 67-68 Camaros) and building (and rebuilding) race engines, transmissions and rear ends...and all the associated tools and space. When kids started to come along (4), I had to change hobbies. So the expense of modeling in (mostly) 1/35th scale, relative to my former hobby, really seems like a drop in the bucket to me. Plus, the time I spend modeling, takes away from my time to spend on other expensive hobbies. Like golf...or gambling. Hmmm. Where's that next Nationals? Tony.
    3 points
  33. This is the last aircraft model that I started and completed a few months back. It’s the old Monogram A-7B. I did a few add ons in the cockpit, and changed out some of the kit ordnance using Hasegawa items based off of photos that I found online. Markings are from a couple decal sheets that I cobbled together to build a VA-95 bird off USS Midway during Operation Linebacker in Spring and Summer of 1972.
    3 points
  34. Greetings All I did not want to highjack the Hasagawa Harrier Thread ,so here is my finished VMA 211 Wake Island Avenger. I had to install the gun pods as a Marine Aircraft without weapons seemed "Unnatural". This is probably my final aircraft for this collection. I have 7 Aircraft from the Wildcat thru the F-35 in collection. This is the Hasagawa kit with Super Scale decals,Resin Seat,Resin Exhaust vents, and Flying Leatherneck Det.- Cord. Two tone gray scheme with true Marine Tail.I used Gunze paints for colors and GX 100 clear for decal base and Mr Hobby Matt for final finish Last addition was the Resin FOD covers. The Hasegawa intake has too many issue to be left open and I like a little more colors these add to the aircraft. Thanks for Looking Comments Welcome Regards Bill
    3 points
  35. The new 1/72 Airfix Gladiator is a real sweetheart of a kit. No flash and any mold seams are slight and easily dealt with. Fit is as with all new Airfix kits, precise to the point that you need to be very careful during clean up not to remove too much anywhere before checking. I did mine OOTB with the exception of using the S.B.S. rigging wire set. (#72046). It gives you a complete set of rigging all pre-made to the correct lengths. You do, however, need to pre-drill holes to receive the wires, so advanced planning is necessary. As they are made in a silver metal, I painted mine a darker metallic color before cutting them from the fret. Almost all the wires fit spot on, but a few needed a slight bit of tweaking, probably due more to my assembly technique than any error on their part. The only thing missing is the antennae. It would have been nice to get that as well, but it's either easily made or can be omitted entirely from some versions on the a/c. I did mine in the camo of the Swedish volunteer unit that flew for the Finns during their war with Russia. (P.S. Notice how I forgot to remove one of the pieces of masking from the left rear of the canopy. What a twit. Problem has since been solved.)
    3 points
  36. Over the years, I've pretty much stayed away from figures all together, because of painting flesh. An arm or a hand exposed was ok, as long as the face was FULLY covered. About two years ago, I started incorporating figures in my dioramas. A friend of mine, in our local club, does mostly figures, painted strictly with artist oils. His results are amazing. He's given me quite a bit of info on how he does his. His main advice was to check on YouTube for tutorials. I decided to get my "feet wet", starting with acrylics (some enamels for the eyes). The bust was painted with a mixture of Vallejo, and AK Flesh and Skin Colors. The leather jacket was a custom mix of two different Tamiya browns. I would usually apply a wash to his jacket for depth. I instead decided to drybrush just the high areas. I used Testors Model Master bright brown first. After it dried, the high areas looked more bronze than anything. I toned it down Naples Yellow Hue (artist oils). The cord and emblems on his hat were painted with Tamiya flat aluminum. I applied a dark wash on these items after they dried. The yellow bead around his hat is Testors yellow. The brim of his hat was painted with Tamiya gloss black. Comments and suggestions are welcome. Chris
    3 points
  37. The eternal optimist, I'm waiting a couple more weeks before I cancel any reservations. Personally, I blame the French. I'm sure this is all a plot by them to destroy the Texas wine industry for remarks by a Texan about the quality of French wine during WWII. They have only waited this long to put off suspicion. Dak
    3 points
  38. David, I'm with you, unfortunately. I'm also disappointed in the weak response from Texas leaders...and this includes most local as well as State. Worse is the lack of common sense on the part of ordinary Texans. If the great majority had managed to rub two brain cells together, not only would this State be open and functioning, we wouldn't be having this discussion about the Nats. We'd be looking forward to a great time in San Marcos. Instead, a high percentage of Texans have demonstrated that they're at least one brain cell short of the number needed to rub together. And before anyone says anything, you have no idea how much it pains me to make these comments about Texas. I was born in Tennessee and got to Texas as soon as I could. I'm a Southerner thru and thru and I expect better of Texans.
    3 points
  39. I am surprised that no one has posted this here or anywhere else on the the rules for the national convention. This is on the main home page of IPMS. It tells me that IPMS is aware for potential legal liability for injury resulting from catching Covid 19 by attending any contest or show and that the risk is higher than normal. Each of us needs to decide if the risk is worth it, but we stand warned. No complaining if you go and get sick. You have been warned. Going forward, the following disclaimer needs to be added to all show flyers as well as your posting on the IPMS/USA event page: “In light of the current pandemic situation, please be aware that neither IPMS/USA nor its Chapters are liable for any potential transmission of illnesses. Those planning to attend this event should (a) follow existing safe social distancing recommendations and (b) abide by any local or state regulations regarding gatherings.”
    3 points
  40. Model built for a Local Boy Scout Troop to Honor a local pilots service. P-38J from 394th FS of the 367 FG. Pilot perished in the channel on July 20 1944. Pilot was 1st Lt William L Mushrush from Steubenville OH Minecraft 1/48th P-38J with True Details interior, Eduard tires and Karaya gun barrels.The Aftermarket stuff way surpassed the Minicraft kit. Uschi Lines for antenna into a filament spring( Which you really can't see🙃) Alclad Polished Aluminum over Gloss Black Thanks for Looking Regards Bill D.
    3 points
  41. Gary and Jim are both mostly correct. But if it was personal risk only, it is a relatively simple ethical calculus. But when you consider the chance of also infecting others, (at the Convention or subsequently at home) you are in a sense asking them to take on the possible health consequences of a decision they were not involved in making. Each of us, when we risk exposure, are not just choosing for ourselves, but for everyone with whom we come in contact. And, to the observation: ‘But that means we need to avoid ANY non-essential contact and practice social distancing until there is a vaccine’ I would reply: ‘ Well, Yeah!’ This resilient organization has weathered at least one financial disaster ( when Treasurer absconded with the treasury many years ago). I have no doubt we will survive this, as well, if we want IPMS to go on. I know I do. Nick
    3 points
  42. This is the Platz 1:72 kit with Eduard photoetched interior panels, modified control columns, and True Details seats. I added wiring the seats, scratch-built the canopy piston housing and the canvas cover over the rear panel from CA-impregnated tissue paper, and cut the kit canopy. The wheel wells were detailed and the airbrakes were re-built and their bays were detailed. Anti-torque scissors were stolen from an F-80 photo etched sheet. The decals were sourced from 14 different sheets from Iliad, SuperScale, Fox One, AeroMaster, an Italeri B-66, and even a MicroScale railroad sheet. Weathering was limited to a wash and some scuffing on the non-skid panels. I finished it just in time for a club contest - but, since only four or five people finished their T-33s, the contest was moved to March!
    3 points
  43. And yet again, when some low performing modeler berates one of our members with the painfully monotonous myth of IPMS rivet counters, our knee- jerk reaction is to rend our garments, beat our breasts, and fall on our xacto knives in shame. People will believe what they want to believe whether it is written on a bathroom stall wall or on the idiotnet. Nothing we can say or do will change that! Nor should we change. All IPMS has done over the past 50 years is give credibility to a hobby that was not taken seriously, help plastic modelers increase their skills and enhance their enjoyment of the hobby, demand that kit manufacturers take this hobby as seriously as we do and organize competitions that are as scrupulously fair as human integrity will permit! We have NOTHING to be ashamed of or apologize for. My personal experience of the people such as those whose uninformed comments you had to endure is that they are poor modelers whose work will not stand up under the most cursory of assessments. What we should be ignoring is the whining of these cry-babies whose skill level is so low that they are simply not competitive when faced with the standards of excellence that IPMS encourages and rewards in it’s members. Let’s all show a little more spine! Why should we seek an association with such narrow, hateful little minds? Regards, Nick Filippone, Senior National Judge
    3 points
  44. I finally finished this baby last night. My first competed build for 2019. It's the Tamiya kit built in Operation Iraqi Freedom (thanks for correcting me, Rob) scheme. I used mylar for the optics and a resin set from Red Zebra for stowage. I also printed out cardboard boxes for MREs from Freddie's set and assembled them for a neat look that breaks up the stowage on the tank. I added a boom mic to the tank commander with copper wire. I used the hairspray technique on this one and tried to bring out the NATO woodland scheme underneath like the original. It didn't work out too well in that the top coat was very tenacious and didn't want to come off easily. Final weathering with Wilder oils and Flory pigments. I also made use of an item called "ceramic wire" for the aerials. I'm pretty satisfied with this build. The kit is highly recommended.
    3 points
  45. I've finally completed a kit! For me it's nothing short of amazing! 😊 This is the Trumpy Type 63 107mm rocket launcher. I've got the Revell-Germany MAN 5T Mil GL truck about to move to the paint booth right now.
    3 points
  46. A simple graphic illustration of why Telford works for The UK but not here.
    3 points
  47. http://culttvman.com/main/a-modelers-guide-to-painting-the-starship-enterprise-by-gary-kerr/ http://culttvman.com/main/a-modelers-guide-to-painting-the-starship-enterprise-pt2-by-gary-kerr/
    3 points
  48. The MK44 Queens 'B' Knight is a variant of the MK44 designed and released as a kit by Takaaki Saito of LoveLove Garden. I was enamored with the design when I saw the first images he posted of the master. I picked this kit up as a Christmas present to myself at the end of 2017. It took a few months before I could build the kit but it wet together quickly once I started. The Hasegawa MK44 line of kits are a breeze to build and the resin add-ons from the LLG kit make this a unique looking mecha. The only change I made was adding the shoulder armor plates from the GrobberHund Altier to the hull sides and replacing the kit hand with an unused claw from the KingKrote kit. A couple of smoke launchers were drilled out and wires are from 0.015" solder wire. The model was painted with Tamiya acrylics and weathered with oils, enamels and pigments. I made extensive use of oils to filter the base colors and add some interest. Additional images can be found here: MK44 Ausf G Queens 'B' Knight
    3 points
  49. Actually it works best if you use an "Old Guy" computer!
    3 points
  50. Yes! I look forward to buying you a beer! And we can discuss whether the line between passion and insanity is raised or recessed. Regards, Nick
    3 points
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