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  2. Nick Filippone

    3D printer for Modeling

    Ok, Rusty! You have simultaneously shamed me and challenged me. You are right. I need to get over the hump, screw up my courage and cast it. I have done a lot of vacu-forming but it has its limitations. I do want to get into resin casting and your metaphorical glove across the cheek may be just what was called for. Thanks- I needed that! Regards, Nick
  3. Dakimbrell

    OOB question

    Jim, This is the Revell 1/32nd He-162. I has won several awards for finish, but will never see a national because the seat is crooked. The seat and bulkhead are a CMK aftermarket and is molded crooked and I did not catch it until it was too late. Given the three category 137B, 2018 winners, it would never make the final cut, so why waste space in the car? The V-1 is the 1/32nd Bronco kit. Fairly well done, but modified, so it can never be OOB and the figure is clearly not a crewman, so it could be bumped into dioramas. personally, I always want it in Field Rocketry because it was operated by artillery units, but most times, they want to put it in jets, or drones. I choose not to enter them to avoid problems. Dak
  4. Dakimbrell

    OOB question

    Pete, The situation is not the same. In this case, having read the rules, I found a loophole which would allow me to enter a model I had originally not intend to bring along. I have helped sort out the armor at nationals and in those cases the wailing and gnashing of teeth was because people ignored the rules which had been available for a long time. In my case, if the NCC says no deal, then I simply will not bring the model and no hard feelings. Jim, First, I am adding nothing to the model. The figure in no way alters the model and the rules state the figure will not be judged....I am not asking for it to be ignored, merely seeking to confirm my understanding of the rules. As to why I don't think my airplane would be competitive in other categories...…60 years building models, 53 years entering contests, and 40 years judging under IPMS, AMPS and MMSI rules. I am a strong midrange, multisubject, model builder, not a specialist. Additionally, I am a real gambler, not just metaphorically and there are some games I do not play or bets I do not make. At Chattanooga, I expect a strong turn out from Atlanta and most likely the mid west states. My gambling instincts tell me it would be a pore bet to waste cargo space on a model that, at best, would have a one in three chance of placing. My handicapping would only give it a 7 to1 in a regular category. For example, the U-boat is a bit different. The differences between submarine OOB and regular submarine categories is marginal, hence it is a better bet. Dak
  5. Wolfman63

    1/48 Accurate Miniatures B-25B

    On the 1/48 Accurate Miniatures B-25B Doolittle Raider I have detailed and finished the cockpit. Started to paint and detail the bomb bay area. Waiting to assemble the bomb bay until I get to the fuselage so that everything lines up. The kit has a butt fit for the bulkheads so I want to make sure they fit correctly. On the Doolittle raiders aircraft to reduce weight the tail gun and side guns were replaced with broomsticks to reduce weight. However the upper turret still had the machine guns. I am replacing the plastic barrels with photo etch and wire and detailing the turret support. Check out all the build photos on my blog at: https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-b-25b-doolittle-raider/
  6. RGronovius

    Star Wars Scimitar Bomber

    Nice, an impressive build.
  7. CMK has produced a very nicely detailed resin seat for the 1/72 Special Hobby P-40E/K/M & N-1 kits. The supplied items include the seat frame. Although made for the Special Hobby P-40 kits, with some prudent sanding to fit, the seat should be adaptable to any of the 1/72 P-40E/K/M and N-1 kits currently on the market. I dry-fitted to my Academy example (see photos). The seat is nicely molded from a 3D-printed master, with no flash or pitting. Ribbed detailing is fine on both front and rear of the seat, and includes molded on harnesses. Be sure to wash the parts in soapy water to remove mold release agents and prime prior to using your favorite modeling paints. Highly recommended. Thanks to the IPMS Reviewer Corps and CMK for the opportunity to review this item. View the full article
  8. CMK has produced a very nicely detailed set of cockpit sidewalls and control column for the 1/72 Special Hobby P-40/Kittyhawk kits. The supplied items include the left and right cockpit walls and separate control column. Although made for the Special Hobby P-40/Kittyhawk kits, this set should be adaptable to any of the 1/72 P-40/Kittyhawk IV kits currently on the market, for a smart upgrade to lackluster kit cockpits. I used mine in a Hasegawa P-40E example (see photos). The panels and detailing are nicely molded from a 3D-printed master, with no flash or pitting. Framing and instrument detailing is fine on the walls, as is the supplied control stick. Be sure to wash the parts in soapy water to remove mold release agents and prime prior to using your favorite modeling paints. Highly recommended. read more View the full article
  9. WildBill50

    Star Wars Scimitar Bomber

    Very creative display. The ship looks great also. Nice job again, Kevin. Bill
  10. WildBill50

    1968 Edsel Pacer

    Nicely done! Aged just enough. Bill
  11. CMK has produced a very nicely detailed resin seat for the 1/72 Special Hobby Kittyhawk IV kit. The supplied items include the seat frame, with the British Sutton Harness molded on. Although made for the Special Hobby Kittyhawk IV kits, the seat should be adaptable to any of the 1/72 Kittyhawk IV kits currently on the market. I dry-fitted to my Academy example (see photos). The seat is nicely molded from a 3D-printed master, with no flash or pitting. Ribbed detailing is fine on both front and rear of the seat, as are the molded on harnesses. Be sure to wash the parts in soapy water to remove mold release agents and prime prior to using your favorite modeling paints. Highly recommended. Thanks to the IPMS Reviewer Corps and CMK for the opportunity to review this item. View the full article
  12. PeteJ

    OOB question

    It has been interesting to read this thread. I will add a small but salient point from the 2018 nationals. By way of illustration, you mentioned figures in the AFV category. I witnessed(but was not party to) some serious heartburn by some modelers about what happened to some who had figures in their tanks. A number of them were moved to the vignette or diorama categories, so allowed figures in AFV's is not without its controversy.
  13. JClark

    OOB question

    Dak Ok. I'll give it a go as I try to wrap my head around your logic of 1)adding something to an OOB build and 2) only to ask for it to not be judged. I wonder why it would be done in the first place BUT with that said I would say that if it's done in other classes as you have shown with the photo's then I guess it would be allowed in A/C as well. But that is not my call. Now DAK , will you answer my question as to why you feel an OOB model wouldn't be competitive in a regular category when OOB builds openly competed in the past and won in regular categories 33% of the time? Jim
  14. Rusty White

    3D printer for Modeling

    I haven't used a 3D printer at the library providing your library has one at all. To get a part made to the quality you and I want would require a pretty expensive printer which I doubt (but I may be wrong here) most libraries have the budget for. Moreover, a good scanner to produce complex parts isn't cheap either. Call your local library and ask what they have for public use. Even better, check your local Vo-Tech school. They are always wanting projects for their students. Why would you want to scan and print an existing part when you can more easily make a mold and cast your own? Just curious.
  15. Dakimbrell

    OOB question

    Nick, now you are being condescending. I am not a novice and have plotted categories like a degenerate gambler at the roulette table. If you bother to read my previous posts, your questions would be answered. In short, if I can't enter it where I want, I see no point in bringing it. See above posts. I don't bet the hard ways at the craps table; I do place bets. Jim, you have never given an answer to my question. Dak
  16. Nick Filippone

    3D printer for Modeling

    What would best serve my needs would be a service to copy a part I made myself. I friend of mine says one of our local libraries has such a device. I guess it scans the original and prints out copies. Is this for real? Nick Filippone
  17. JClark

    OOB question

    DAK Certainly didn't want to come off as condescending. That was not my goal. Just to give you the insight you were looking for. If I did come across that way you have my apologies. I do have to ask, why do you think it wouldn't be competitive no where else? it's when you make statements like that (See below) that lead me to believe that you think OOB is looked at and judged differently. Jim
  18. Nick Filippone

    OOB question

    Assuming that a category under-entered one year will continue to be so and will therefore be a slam-dunk the next is drawing to an inside straight. Full disclosure: I have tried that myself years ago. It does not work. I can assure you that you are not the only contest entrant or reader of the latest Journal with it's Contest results who noticed the low numbers in 132 and are also greedily licking his or her chops as they anticipate Chattanooga. Furthermore, as the National Convention moves about the country, the interests and target categories of the different attendees will affect category "census." Jim's advice is best. And I will add more. If winning at a National Contest is important to you ( as, I admit, it is to me) spread your "bets" around the contest room by building (to the best of your ability) for several different categories. To bring only one entry to the IPMS National Convention Contest with high expectations of winning is a recipe for disappointment. Regards. Nick- doesn't put all his eggs in one basket- Filippone
  19. Dakimbrell

    OOB question

    Jim, Don't take this the wrong way, but you are missing the point. This model is an interim project for me; a simple study in painting and weathering. I think it will look good and based on my study of the OOB categories, I feel it would be competitive there, but no where else. I want to move on to other, more important projects and not spend a lot of time on a subject of minimal interest to me. I am looking for opinions about the figure, not suggestions about whether to enter it in OOB or another category. Building the model my way is more important than entering the contest. I have contacted the NCC and have asked for a ruling. I don't even want to bring the model, if I can't place it in OOB. An OOB tank takes up very little space in the car. Large models of even small aircraft take up far more space as well as being more delicate. I read the rules closely before I enter a National and do my best to conform to the established rules and I have no particular problem with them. However, as noted in the rules, not everything can be covered until it comes up. Additionally, you are coming off somewhat condescending. I have plenty of contest experience over many years, in several different regions and I build six to ten models.....mostly dioramas.... a year. You may have also noticed my name on Journal articles for the past couple years. My original IPMS number was way lower than my current one, but I dropped out for several years getting my current one on my return. The standing question is....does the addition of a non-kit figure violate the spirt or letter of the OOB rules? I say it does not, for reasons stated earlier. Dak
  20. Yesterday
  21. WildBill50

    Airfix TSR2

    I had a heck of a time trying to tint the canopies. Everything that I tried just ran off and pooled up. One of our club members, Richie experimented with a bunch of concoctions and finally got something to stick and was the right color. He used white glue and clear paint and all kinds of VOODOO Magic. Whatever it was it worked great. Thanks Rich! It feels great to get something done finally. Bill
  22. Mark Deliduka

    Maddog Manufacturing 2017 Production Line

    Well, it's been over a month and I finally have some time to post what I've gotten done in all that time. Let's start again with my aircraft. Some time ago I got some extra decals for my Boeing 737. I then added some decal film to them to help insure they don't break up too much. Finally, I managed to get one side on to repair the damaged ones that were already there: That has also been clearcoated for protection, and later I'll try the other side. I was surprised at how long that decal took to loosen up! Moving along, I did the radar dome on the night fighting Hellcat I'm building for someone: I need to clearcoat those parts and get the decals on this model. Moving on, I worked on my two helicopters. The Nigerian Hind was first. I assembled the main rotors first: Then I added the landing gear and gear doors: This is a test fit to see how it all sits. All I need is a bit of paint touch up; the ordinance and eventually, a canopy: I also worked on my Australian HAP Tigre; getting the main rotors done and the whole thing clearcoated for decals: Here it is with the decals on, and the canopy masking off: Later I noticed that the little beastie wasn't sitting right; she was leaning to one side. So, I turned it over, cut one of the landing gear and added a shim to the strut. That is the white thing you see here: Finally, this one was almost done. I added the ordinance, the main and tail rotors, and a tail wheel from another kit since this one had gotten lost; and then touched up some of the paint. All that is needed on this is the "eyeball" on top of the cockpit and the gun beneath the nose: That completes the aircraft, now to bring it down to the ground.... To start with, I base coated the M-992: I was going to fix the tracks some, but I'm tired of this thing sitting on the bench. I'll be hand painting the camo pattern on this later. Next I decided to get the tracks on the Russian BREM. I started by adding some links to the drive sprocket and then cementing that on the hull, as indicated by the instructions: After some more work, I got one run of tracks done: One more run to do and I'll be ready to close this up and paint it. Next I primed the Italian Lince: After that dried, I shot it with a coat of pale OD as a base: The back roof brace broke off, as I was sure it would, so later on when I'm almost done, I'll make a new one from styrene rod. Next I went to work on my WWI MACK truck. First I shot the green back on the roof of the cab where I'd filled and sanded the seams: Next, I was not happy with the looks of the tilt. I started by doing some sanding to remove some seams and then brought out my putty and filled all the seams, sink marks and gouges I'd made before: Some time later, I got everything as smooth as I wanted: I then gloss coated the chassis and cab for decals and shot a new Field Drab color on the tilt. It all looks much better now: Now I just need to decal this, dullcoat it, then assemble the last detail parts and weather it and I'll have another MACK truck. Since I was dabbling in WWI subjects, I finished painting the pattern on my WWI 8-inch artillery gun: This just needs some weathering and it'll be done. Finally! Since I was hand painting camouflage patterns, I decided it was time to finish the armored train engine too. I had started with the green before and now I finally got it all done: After that, I added the brown: This one just needs a bit of weathering also and I'll have it finished. Hopefully soon. Moving on out to my shipyards, we find the Izumo getting some attention. I had masked off the flight deck so it was time to shoot the lighter grey: It's almost impossible to see in those pics so you'll have to take my word for it. Here's the island after I finished painting it too: Later the masking came off. I was extremely pleased at how well this looked: I dry-fit the island to see how it looks: I was most impressed with how seamless the join was on this. Excellent molding! After that, I decided to build the lower hull. I added the sonar dome, rudders, strakes and screws to the underside. I'm still not sure I'll add this to the model, but at least it will be completed if I do: Later on, I painted the funnels and then cemented the island down on the deck. I then added most of the detail parts to the deck and island. I left off all the tall, thin antennas and masts that would end up breaking off as I worked on this further. Now this is ready for touch up paint and clearcoat for decals: That completes the run of progress I've gotten done so far. I hope to finish up at least four of these in the next week, and possibly another few by the end of the year. Here's hoping! Thanks all for looking in, comments are welcome.
  23. WildBill50

    Airfix TSR2

    Here is the Airfix 1/48th TSR2. I added a CMK cockpit and SAC metal landing gear. The SAC gear addresses one of the problems with the kit. The kit gear is splayed out about 3 degrees and the SAC gear corrects that. I added some hydraulics and brake line to them also. Since all of the TSR's flew in a white test scheme, I wanted something that looked a little more menacing. I painted mine in a tactical wrap around paint scheme of MM Dark Sea Gray and MM Dark Green. The tail I painted up like a show bird from the #16 Squadron, The Saints. I always liked there little guy with the halo. I found a picture on the web and it was thee perfect size for the large all moving tail. I adjusted the fuselage contour where it meets the top of the wing. The CMK cockpit really helps this kit. There are other parts that could be addressed by resin, but I chose only the cockpit. I don't think any putty was used for construction. I had a great time building this thing and boy is it big. Bigger than an F-111. Any comments good, bad, indifferent, all welcome. Bill
  24. JClark

    OOB question

    DAK You pay your money, you take your chances. Here is what I would recommend. Build the model to the best of your ability.You stated > (During that time I have learned there are some areas you don't compete in unless you are prepared to go all in) Well I would counter that you should always go all in if you are competing at the Nats. Don't ever think you can enter something and not put your best effort forward as you have no idea what will show up from year to year. What areas at the Nats don't you have to be prepared to go all in??? . So add your figure, enter it in OOB. (IF) it gets moved into the regular category due to the addition of the figure then you are ready to compete there since you have built the model to the best of your ability. Always put your best effort forward. Don't assume because it doesn't have belts or other things added that it will be dismissed especially since you will have the instructions included with the entry and that your original intent was to enter it OOB. The team will see that and note it. My main point being don't assume anything one and two don't assume it's out of the running because it's an OOB build that got moved to a regular category. I have seen models stay in OOB with weapons added that weren't called for in the instructions. Unfortunately it's not all as black and white as I think we would all like it to be since every eventuality is impossible to plan for. So all anyone could really say is be ready for any eventuality. Or if you have quams about the distance then wait until the Nats are closer. That's what I had to do this year with 3 of my builds. I finally got the chance to enter two 32nd scale builds and a 350 ship dio. So there is my opinion, build it, bring it and show it "Sound familiar ? LOL" Jim
  25. Dakimbrell

    OOB question

    I have been entering contests for 50 years. During that time I have learned there are some areas you don't compete in unless you are prepared to go all in. With this model, I am not. My current project has no seatbelts or a dozen items I regularly see in winning models in categories like 103, 120,131, 135, etc. As for OOB, note that one category...132... only had two entries, this year. However, as in shooting craps, past performance is not guaranty of future performance. I make no assumption that OOB is a cake walk, but the is a definite difference in truly competing and merely being in the category. Traveling 900 miles, I choose to bring those models, which in my opinion give me the best chance. It is a distance thing, a couple hours away, I might say what the heck, and bring it to show. But twelve hours on roads I know are going to be bumpy, no way. I have several other pieces which could take up the same space and are a lot easier to transport. As for the U-boat, that is a different thing. I have two of the Bronco kits and plan to build one full hull and one in a diorama. Since there is not a lot you can do to a submarine model before it becomes a diorama, OOB seems like a good place to enter it and I always include figures with all my models. We began discussing the concept at my local chapter and I felt the question would be a good one to discuss and get some broader opinions. So, do you feel the figure on the OOB airplane violates the OOB rule? if so, why? Dak National Judge
  26. The MiG-21 attributed itself during the Vietnam War quite well against the US Air Force and US Navy. The small fast airframe accompanied with the limitations imposed by the US command allowed the Vietnamese Air Force to reach something close to parity. Eduard has released the MiG-21PFM previously but this boxing is specifically targeted to the Vietnamese use of the airframe. read more View the full article
  27. Nick Filippone

    OOB question

    Jim is quite right. Why in heaven's would you assume an OOB category is some kind of a cake walk at the Nationals. If you approach the building of an entry for the Nationals "...with neither the interest of the time to turn it into a competitive model" you will end up with just exactly that: a model that is not competitive - in any category! Nick - long ago gave up looking for a quick and lazy path to a National trophy- Filippone
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