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  1. Today
  2. Had a short workbench session today.., I glued on all the road wheels and did the basic construction of the fenders. The sprocket wheels are test fitted but not glued in place until I add the tracks. I’m deviating fro. The instruction a bit now by concentrating on the hull before I start on the turret. The instructions by this point have you bouncing back and forth.
  3. Yesterday
  4. For Sale: I have a 1/48 Airfix EE Lightning F2A/F-6 Aircraft (9178) I’m selling. It is complete and unstarted. The kit is $59 USD which INCLUDES SHIPPING IN CONUS. I will accept check, money order or PayPal (Goods & Services) as payments. If using a check, I will wait until it clears the bank before sending the package. If interested, please contact me directly at patrix1 AT sbcglobal.net (replacing “AT” with “@”). Patrick Keenan Mundelein, IL
  5. Given the laws enacted by Russia, social media platforms had no real choice but to cut access as they'd be liable for any posts that were deemed 'fake news' by the government. Which is pretty much everything that's actually happening in Ukraine, as opposed to what Russia says is happening. E
  6. So I’ve made a bit more progress over the past few days… First up, I added the engine rear and top deck areas, the biggest visual difference between the M48/M48A1 and all of the follow on variants. Much closer is appearance to the preceding M46 & M47, than the A2, A3, A5 and M60 family engine decks… Then earlier today I added the road wheel arms, shocks, and final drive housings More to come in a day or two….
  7. Last week
  8. DaSWO


    When Putin is gone. I think cutting their Social Media access was/is a mistake as they no longer get an opposing view.
  9. Those particular colors due end up flat in my experiences with them. A lot flatter than chrome, if you put too much paint, they seem to be flatter also. It is a fine line between just right and adding 1 more coat turns them flat. Adding a clear coat will change the look also, it's trial and error till you get your technique down. As long as the solvent hasn't evaporated, age hasn't affected any of my Alclad, some of mine are 5-6 years old and still work fine. All I can suggest is to do the very thin coats and slowly work up to the look you're going for. If you put that "one more coat will do it" it will ruin the look of depth from the black undercoat. Don't know if it helps much, Alclad can be finnicky to get the look right, temp, humidity etc. all play a part in the final finish. Good luck, Dave
  10. Great looking NMF! What did you use? Gil
  11. Reviewed by: Jason Holt Company: Iliad Design The P-51 in Air National Markings have always interested me and when I saw Iliad Decals was releasing another sheet with them, I couldn’t pass it up. Ironically the Ohio ANG marking included on this sheet was one that I had considered including for the 2009 and the 2015 IPMS Nationals Decal sheets but never made the cut. I am pleased that Iliad decided to do this particular marking. more...View the full article
  12. Reviewed by: Scott Hollingshead Company: Arma Hobby While Arma Hobby has been in business since 2013, they are a newer company to me, and this was my first opportunity to build one of their wonderful kits. Their mission is to manufacture the highest quality plastic kits that offer both extreme surface detail and are easy to build. While I will agree on the fantastic surface detail, I am not certain that I would call this kit easy to build. While I do highly recommend this kit, I do recommend that the builder have some experience before taking on a project like this. more...View the full article
  13. Reviewed by: Phil Peterson Company: Scale Publications Richard Marmo is one of the founding members of IPMS/USA, member #2, yep, 2. He has been creating ebooks on how to build kits, photo journals and other stuff for a while. This time for issue 13 what better project than the Munsters Living Room. Now you younger lads and lasses may not know The Munsters but those of us with a few more years under our belts are very familiar with this show that ran from 1964 to 1966 and then syndication. You can still find it on television today or watch it for free on Peacock. The Munsters Living Room kit was originally released by Aurora back in the 60’s and then rereleased by Polar Lights in the late 1990s. Round2 picked up the license after Polar Lights went under however it is not currently in production. more...View the full article
  14. It's a shame because the quality of Zvezda's products is very good. I can't help but wonder how long it's going to take for the russian people to wake up.
  15. This model of a normally shiny car brought home a trophy from Seattle Recon 7 back in the late 80s. Ya never can tell what someone might like.
  16. Well, you may be right, but looking at the base of the prop blade I see what looks like sloppy red paint. It may be a little of both. Not that it really matters. As I say, my real pout was to note that there are sloppy paint jobs in real life. Just because it is “sloppy” doesn’t always make it wrong. Dak
  17. Decided to go for an all metal finish.
  18. My understanding is that the pic of Gentile's Mustang spinner above is a case of WEAR, and not ragged painting. As I mentioned above, the 4th FG occasionally had to buy paint from local sources. The white on the spinner is the original prop spinner color for the 4th, and the red was something Gentile had added. The red paint just didn't wear very well, flaking and peeling back to the point seen. There are earlier pics with the spinner being completely red, before it flew so many missions. Since the original question asked about judging an attempt to replicate that wear, in my mind it boils down to whether the builder can pull off that worn look IN SCALE. Otherwise it probably doesn't impress viewers or judges. Here is a pic of Shangra La after Gentile pranged it on the field during his last landing before rotating home (possibly on purpose). Note that the spinner had been repainted and is all red! Gil
  19. My point was that like with seams, modelers tend to like thinks neat, but that the real world often isn’t. I remember seeing an F-4 Phantom at Tinker AFB, about 1978, that had the rescue arrow off register. It reminded of a decal sheet I had seen with some off register markings. Dak
  20. PeteJ

    Real or Neat

    I agree and disagree. Yes this is a very sloppy line but it is one photo of a single aircraft at a single moment in time. To extrapolate that to sloppy lines on other birds, is a stretch. Notice that although the prop is a mess, the checkerboard is perfectly straight and crisp. All of those lines were field applied because nose art was always applied in the field. I am of the opinion that if you are replicating a given aircraft at a given moment in time then yes, that messy line would be necessary to achieve that. Just don't use this example to say that all lines are sloppy and thus any model with sloppy edges or lines could be correct. Don't use this as an excuse for poor painting and masking skills.
  21. Probably by the time you reduced the paint brush slip down to 1/72 or whatever, if you most likely be reduced to a soft straight line. But I agree and would like to see a reduction of the mania about perfect straight lines. Decals too, they were supposed to have been applied with a stencil and paint brush or large air brush... The pic does remind me of another (which I couldn't find at the moment) of a guy in the field, applying camo on a plane with a mop.
  22. Well they are plastic and have to be assembled! May 1st limited production run. They make me smile.
  23. Next up is an interesting subject. This is the 1/48 Brengun MQ-8B Fire Scout. This is a helicopter drone built by Northrop Grumman and is used by the U.S. Navy. It is typically deployed on FFG’s and LCS ships. The reason I chose this is I am a member of the International Plastic Modeler Society (IPMS). I belong to the Mckinstry Chapter and we have monthly meetings. Typically each month we have a theme. One of the upcoming themes is “Missiles and Drones”. I looked over the available model kits of drones and thought this would be a little different than the combat drones many are used to seeing. This kit is a full resin model. Resin models are cast in resin rather than injection molded styrene kits. There are fewer parts than a typical model and instead of trees the parts are attached to the base of the cast. Many of the smaller parts can be trimmed from the base using a hobby knife. The larger parts require a jeweler’s saw to cut off the base. Once I had all the parts trimmed I started assembly. Resin models do not use typical model glue. They require a CA glue for assembly. I assembled the fuselage, tail boom and nose. The fit was very good except for the bottom edge of the nose which required a little putty filler. The kit come with a sheet of photo etch for some of the smaller details like the antenna blades. I added the photo etch pieces and then sprayed the fuselage with light ghost gray. For the turret under the nose I mixed some Pearl EX pigments in the Tamiya smoke paint. The main lens and the bottom right lens were mixed with gold pigments. I used blue pigments for the bottom and right side lenses. The left side lens I use the green pigments. Once dry I added a final coat of the smoke paint. I noticed that the decal sheet did not include the laser warning labels on the turret. I made my own decal labels and applied them. For the final step on the turret I drilled the holes in the back of the mount so I can add the cables later when I mount it. I am now getting ready to apply the kit decals. The decal set comes with two schemes and I will be doing the HSM-35 “Magicians” scheme. Check out all the photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-mq-8b-fire-scout-drone/
  24. Thanks so much James. Never thought of that. I’ll try it tomorrow and let you know how it turned out. Chris
  25. Sprayed some Alclad tonight and it came out flat! I’ve never had this problem before. Sprayed over gloss black (Aluminum 101 and Airframe Alum 106)and it is very flat. Airpressure at about 15-20 psi. Does Alclad go bad, it is about 1 year old. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  26. Tape it down and try to unwarp it with a hair dryer on low or medium. That should make it pliable to cool at the right shape. The worst outcome would be it is further ruined? Maybe a vac canopy replacement if all else fails?
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