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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. Interesting.... since it already seems to be flat coated, what are you using to enhance the panel lines? Gil
  2. That's a very pretty build, and being from scratch is all the more impressive! I'd be interested in seeing a few in-progress pics to see what methods you used. That's also quite the unique collection of Golden Age racers too! Thanks for sharing! Gil
  3. After getting to see this model once again; 3 years later, it's JUST as stunning an achievement as when I first saw it. I hope it's found a home in a museum somewhere so that others can enjoy it! Gil
  4. Although the pics say otherwise, that interior framing LOOKS like wood! Nice! Gil
  5. It will be interesting to see what changes, if any, occur under the new management. Perhaps the one bright spot is that there IS a company that sees a future in publishing Fine Scale Modeler and the other Kalmbach magazines. I've subscribed pretty much continually since FSM was stated in the early '80s and plan to continue to do so, at least for the immediate future with the new publisher. Although I know there are advantages to going digital, the day they end the paper magazine is the day I quit subscribing to them. Gil
  6. Very impressive build in scope, detailing, and skills applied, with or without the lighting you added! I'm looking forward to seeing it up close at the Nats this summer. Thanks for letting us ride along on this incredible build! Gil
  7. Badgers? You don't have to show us no Badgers! We don't need to see no stinkin' Badgers! 😁 Sorry.... it was too easy to pass up! Very nice pair duke! I especially like the Egyptian one as it reaffirms that I might have gotten my MiG-21 camo patterns mostly right. Those are impressive in both size and scope of build. Congrats Gil
  8. Welcome Ethan! Glad you're here! Make yourself at home and let us now how we can help you have more fun! Gil
  9. Although 1/48 aircraft are my primary gig, I do build 1/48 armor every so often. Our club currently has a "50 Shades of Gray" build theme going so I decided to tackle the old 1/48 Bandai Panzerkampfwagen IV Aus D; rubber band tracks and all. The kit comes with some interior parts.... I enhanced it by adding the radios and coaxial machine gun breach on the right, and some rudimentary (but not "accurate") controls for the driver on the left along with the instrument cluster on the top of the transmission housing. I also built up a floor and ammo rack behind the driver as the kit had nothing but the circular turret floor. I left out the kit engine as I closed up the engine inspection hatch on the back and it wouldn't be seen. I decided not to try to add any stowage or extra tracks except for what the kit provided. Other than that, I just tried to add some color variations and some moderate weathering since these were mainly used in the first half of the war. On to the finished pics! Considering my lack of true experience with armor, this suits my shelf just fine and also satisfies the club theme. Critiques, comments, and questions welcome! Thanks for looking! Gil
  10. Good looking build and a very nice legacy! Gil
  11. It may not have come out how you wanted, but Skyraiders got pretty dirty with heavy exhaust staining, so it doesn't look outlandish at all. I've had pretty good results building up exhaust stains using (brushing on) chalk powders instead of trying to airbrush them on. You can keep building them up until you get the look you like and they wipe off with water if you mess up. The only down side is they need to be sealed in place with a flat coat or they're susceptible to fingerprints, and sometimes the flat coat will seemingly tone down the look you got. But then.... you just add more and flat coat again until you're happy! Gil
  12. Now that is cool.... especially with the deflected flaps. Imaginative too! Gil
  13. I always paint prop tips..... most decals fit lousy (if at all) and as you point out, end up ragged after trimming them to fit. White can be a tough color to paint! My suggestions would be to first try to get some Tamiya Fine White Primer in the spray can. It's a great primer and also a good flat white that covers well. Although not available much anymore (out of production) I've found Model Master gloss white, thinned with lacquer thinner works well IF sprayed over the Tamiya white primer. If you can't find that, then the small bottles of Testors gloss white (also thinned with lacquer thinner) will do the job. If you use acrylics..... you'll have to get better advice elsewhere. Cheers! Gil
  14. Since I carped on the failures of the initial Madison Nats hotel room reservations, I'm here now to heap praises on the changes they made when it came to incorporating the newly opening Embassy Suites hotel room reservations! I'm impressed by the way they coordinated with the hotel to first put out emails to IPMSUSA members that would allow them to get on a list for the available rooms at the Embassy Suites. THIS is something that can be pointed to by IPMSUSA as a tangible benefit of membership going forward when someone asks "what do I get besides a magazine"? I'm hoping that this system, or some form of it, can be used going forward each year so that the chaos of trying to get a room each year is lessened AND so that current IPMUSA members get a leg up on the other attendees, as well they should. The only other suggestion I'd make here is to be sure most regular vendors are included in this, if they aren't already. I also want to commend their clear and concise communications, in both the initial email to get on the reservations list, as well as the most recent one on how to make the actual reservation, including clear details on how to modify the dates to meet your personal needs. THIS is reminiscent of the way the Madison group was originally communicating with us here late last summer and signals a reliability in their dedication to hosting a great show. While I'm not privy to all of the details, I suspect that the "new" Eboard has also played a part in this, if only in offering their firm support in the changes made in how we reserve rooms for the Nats. I want to thank them also, as this could also signal a return to a semblance of sanity in its duties going forward. I know there may be some other things to be tackled and overcome for the Madison show, but I'm greatly heartened by the way this first obstacle was obliterated, and in such a new way. I'm looking forward to seeing all y'all up there in July! Gil
  15. Dunno.... looks pretty darn good to me! If you used a brush to touch up the surfaces it's not readily apparent in the pics. Post some pics when the weathering is done, though it looks pretty sharp as is! The only "critique" I can make is there appears to be a circumferential seam around your tires that contest judges would gig you for (seam or mold mark problem). Nice build! Gil
  16. Looks like it's on the ramp in the early evening..... Gil
  17. ghodges

    1/48 MiG-21PF

    Just finished the 1970's molding of the 1/48 Revell MiG-21PF. It includes a Black Box resin cockpit and Barracuda resin intake cone. The model was also rescribed. The missiles (Soviet copies of our Sidewinder) were taken from the spares box as the kit ones were cruder and their seeker heads made using tinted clear UV cured resin. I also installed MV lenses for the wingtip position lights. I built this simply because I'd seen this scheme elsewhere and wanted to do one for myself. The kit had no nose gear well, so I built one, which also created a nice ledge to mount the nose weights (fishing sinkers) on. The Black Box resin tub and side walls fit in with a little sanding and thinning (it's designed for the Academy kit). I modified the nose intake and the rear fuselage tail exhaust by thinning their interior walls so that both the resin nose cone and the kit exhaust flame holder could be installed from the outside at the end of the building and painting. Close up of the BB resin seat, main IP, stick, and instrument coaming. I used a dot of clear UV resin to simulate the glass on the instruments. My references show that the early PF Migs had a dark interior, so it was all painted dark gray/black instead of the more commonly seen later turquois blue interior colors. The camo pattern was painted using patches and "ropes" of Silly Putty. This made for a tighter camo edge than I could get with my airbrush. I did find that when I went to airbrush on some Future for the gloss coat that it wanted to bead up on the surface, evidently due to some slight residue left on the model surface by the Silly Putty. I wiped it down a bit better and then switched to using Alclad Klear Gloss lacquer and that worked with no problems. The rest of the decalling, finishing, washes/weathering went on without any more problems. As mentioned... this one was built for the paint job. The resin stuff was used simply because it was in the box, purchased some years ago. All in all, I'm happy as this crosses off something I've wanted to do since I originally saw this in a Scale Modeler magazine back in the '70s! Critiques, comments, and questions welcome; as always! Gil
  18. Excellent touch ups! I cannot tell what was even done in that last pic! Gil
  19. I know he used to be here on occasion and advertise his stuff here. Perhaps he'll chime in to help you out before too long. Gil
  20. Took a lot of skill to put a polish like that on that old mold! Very nice! Gil
  21. As I mentioned earlier, the building details are impressive enough, let alone the wiring ingenuity that you're also incorporating. The more scale antenna details are also a nice touch, though I dare not put things like that on myself before painting and decalling is done or I'll knock them off while handling the model. Carry on! Looking forward to your final steps on this beauty! Gil
  22. Vietnam era combat aircraft should be flat or matte. Even if the original paint had some gloss to it, it would "dull down" due to weather and use rather quickly in that environment. Gloss painted transport aircraft flying INTO the area and back out (being maintained elsewhere) might have some shine to them, but not the ones flying in theater and getting less maintenance under those circumstances. Even the aluminum painted F-100s and F-105s early in the war weren't very shiny after a week or two! Hope this helps! Gil
  23. Oooo.... pretty! I think your dropping it and putting the nose on "up" was a happy accident as I agree it looks much more graceful that way. Congrats on your perseverance! Gil
  24. Nice progress Duke, as always! You didn't say how you were trying to shape the plastic strips you showed but implied you weren't getting the results you wanted. I've found I can bend thin sheet strips like that around a paint brush handle. BUT, you don't just "bend" it.... you bend it to get a curvature started and then holding between your thumb and forefinger take the thinner end of the paint brush handle and using thumb pressure with the other hand PULL the handle along the length of the strip, causing it to curl tightly around the handle as you pull and (hopefully) imparting even greater curvature to the strip. It'll never curl up as tightly as the handle due to the "straight memory" of the plastic; but it might help you get tighter curls if needed. If you're doing this already... oh well. If not, hope this helps! Gil
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