Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by ghodges

  1. There is a SIMPLER answer to this..... Although many judges already do this, subconsciously if not overtly, have the Chief Judge make "degree of difficulty" and "scope of effort" official criterias of judging! Thus, when there's an entry like the above, BUT it is OOTB as noted by the builder, it can be properly judged against the other entries its pitted against with no need for any separate category. Being OOTB may or may not work for or against the builder, depending on how well the work is done on this entry and the others; but allowing for considering how much extra a builder did or didn't do by comparison, instead of relying strictly on flaw counting, solves the problem! Gil
  2. I've begun working on the fuselage....added the "E" nose and tail to both of the fuselage halves...the fit was a little better than I expected for such a large kit. The next step was starting to add a wash to the interior and many of the detail parts.... While not overly difficult, it was tedious....each fuselage half taking almost an hour each.... But, I can now actually start working on the interior parts themselves; AFTER first studying all of the Eduard interior sets to see what needs adding and/or modification to use them. There will also be quite a bit of detail painting that will be time consuming....but then that's the nature of this big beast. More pics when I have some significant progress to show! GIL
  3. IPMSUSA is caught in a sort of chicken/egg scenario..... The Gundam builders are saying "if you give us proper categories, we will come".....and IPMSUSA is saying "if you come, we'll be able to give you proper categories".... IPMS's reputation as the IP(Militarist)S is well deserved, but it is NOT the group that used to turn their nose up at Sci-Fi decades ago. Any perusal of the Journal, or our contests, including the BIG winners at the Nats will show that other genres are well respected and well rewarded. That said, (and I DO understand the NCC's position on how they decide whether or not to expand categories), I think it's time for IPMSUSA to reach out and MAKE AN EFFORT to draw these Gundam (and other genres) into the fold. The number of categories has ALWAYS been linked to the number of awards being bought...that's to say IPMS would NOT spend money for awards for categories that essentially had few to no entries on the horizon. That is generally the reasoning behind the current rule....FIRST you show IPMS that there's a need to create a new category and THEN they'll add it and spend the money on it. I believe that IPMSUSA can afford the cost of adding 10 categories/splits at the Nats. Those 30 awards shouldn't cost more than $500-$1000 dollars. While that's not chump change, it IS in fact a tenth or less than the average profit most Nats have been making over the last decade or so. IPMSUSA could consider it an investment in showing that we welcome Gundams, and whatever other genre's might feel slighted (more Sci-fi cats in general?) and that IPMSUSA wants to reach out to. Do it for 5yrs....and THEN if the Gundam people still haven't shown up, go back to where it is now. Of course the REAL answer is simply to go to GSB...where there ARE no categories and every model is simply judged on its merits wherever it sits in the room (usually grouped together for ease of placement and aesthetic reasons), and it doesn't matter how many other "like" models there are. GIL
  4. We've reached the age and time where the people who moved and shaped (literally) the hobby of plastic modeling are starting to pass on. We can be thankful that such artistic and talented people opened doors for the rest of us to a lifetime of enjoyment. I hope the pride the family takes in his accomplishments, and their loving memories buoy them through their grief. Gil
  5. Plodding along....Got the wheel wells painted and assembled so that the wings could be built....which also allowed for adding the gear actuators to the gear so that they can be added at the end of the build. The fit of everything has been "tight", but overall quite good. The wing seams were pretty good overall, though the side exhaust inserts needed more filler than elsewhere. Wings are basically assembled, minus some pe details on the leading edge intakes, the landing lights, and the wingtip lights. Note the silver screening I added to some of the intakes...the kit has a couple of screens, but leaves just "holes" for the other 4 in the leading edge. The props and supercharger exhausts assembled...the detailing of the waste gates on the rear of each is very good. Also, the kit gives you a choice of the narrower blades for the "E (as here), but also includes the later paddle blades for the "F" too. It's nothing fancy, but progress is progress and the wings are 95% done, so it's been a good week! GIL
  6. I believe Richard is on the right track....Chromate yellow was a common primer coating for many manufacturers of the day, so lacking any info saying otherwise, it'd be a very good bet. Gil
  7. Pic of the painting progress so far.... Engines and cowling interiors are done. Decided to go with the kit landing gear and they're very well done. I believe they'll be quite sturdy enough for the model. The oil tanks areshown as part of the wheel well interior painting being done so I can work towards assembling the wings. More pics when they're together! GIL
  8. That's not the painting I saw on line.... https://airwarworldwar2.wordpress.com/2016/10/21/debunking-the-myths-of-old-666/ The link will take you to a very good discussion of that mission, and includes the painting I decided was more accurate than the Weddel one. This is a close up of it....though note it shows the F nose windows which are incorrect since 666 was an "E". But, it shows the lower "fixed" nose gun, as well as the twin radio and waist guns. The fuselage mounted gun has a certain "romance" to it, but no pictures of the airplane show any such mod, and it lacks common sense too. Anyway, the client has agreed to the configuration I'm building it in. Cheers! Gil
  9. Welcome Steven! Glad to have you here with us! Make yourself at home and be sure to post some of your work down in the various topic areas. Looking forward to seeing some! Gil
  10. No....despite what you see in "Dogfights", there was NO gun mounted on top of the fuselage ahead of the windscreen ala WWI style. If you read the material from Zeamer himself he states that the extra nose gun (wired to his control yoke) was on the floor in the nose beside the bombardier. So you had 3 guns through the clear nose; 1 each at 2 and 10 o'clock, and one off center at the bottom. This also makes sense in that it'd take major work (metal cutting) to mount a gun on top of the nose, but not much extra effort to secure one to the floor and run some wiring. If the Weddel painting is the one I've seen on line, note it does not have the nose gun mounted in front of the windscreen either. The real difference for 666 was a return to the twin guns for the radio station, and modifying each waist position with twin guns. Also, there was NO gun pointing down through the floor in the rear fuselage (another Dogfights error). That was a mixing of memories by Zeamer with the Marauders he flew before the B-17. There were 15 guns in firing positions (as opposed to the normal 10) and another couple stationed around inside to be "handy" in case of failures. I'll also need to add 2 additional oblique cameras in the rear fuselage that mapping B-17s carried in addition to the regular camera in the floor under the radio position. GIL
  11. I've started in on building the HK 1/32 B-17E/F Flying Fortress for a client. This will be a L-O-N-G term project as he wants almost every aftermarket item available added and the model built as "Old 666", the B-17E that fought off a dozen or more Zeros on a mapping mission over Bougainville in '43. I decided to start with the Eduard Brassin engines. The kit engines are indeed anemic, especially for such an expensive 1/32 kit. Each Brassin resin engine includes a sharply cast cowling, open cowl flaps, and several cowl sections in case you want to display it with the cowl off and the parts on the ground nearby. But NOTE: Eduard sells these "by the number", as in "engine #1, #2; etc. It is important that you order #1-#4 if getting all of them, or that you order the correct individual one for the correct spot on the wing because otherwise the cowl flaps may not have the exhaust cut out in the right spot! 1 of the 4 supplied to me was wrong and I had to modify the cowl flaps for that station. The resin engines are very detailed front and back. If you're NOT going to display it with the cowl off, then nothing for the back is really needed. This can save a LOT of time as one of the biggest resin casting stubs to be removed is on the firewall mount in the back. However, without the rear engine stuff, the engines need to be altered to fit onto the kit mounting pegs. This is easily done by drilling a 9/32" hole in the resin engine bank, which allows it to be slid onto the peg, and also be adjusted forward or back to get it positioned correctly inside the cowl. The Eduard instructions leave a little to be desired....the illustrations clearly show where everything goes, but they're not really numbered as to which to do in what order. To a degree this is self evident...but later on in the assembly process if you get out of place it can make adding some of the parts tougher. The other problem is that some of the parts need trimming to fit well, especially the push rods. Each of them needed trimming on BOTH ends to make them fit between the crankcase and the rocker arms. I also quickly abandoned trying to use the Eduard PE ignition wires. They appear much too flat (2 dimensional) for 1/32 and are much harder to manipulate than the solder wire I used instead. All in all, there are 45 parts that make up each engine, and that's without using anything on the back side! Here's pics of my progress this week...... #3 detailed... Overview of test fitting the engines on the right wing Close up showing how engine bank is drilled to fit the mounting peg in the center, and the fit of the cowling to the wing Engine #4 (above) has since been detailed, but I still have the other 2 to build up. It takes about 1.5hrs to build each one! By the way, the offset/canted prop governor is correct, and even its "base" is keyed to help align it that way. Settle in and grab some popcorn....this one will take a while! Gil
  12. Looking forward to seeing this one resurrected! Gil
  13. That thing is HUGE! Really looks nice, and even more impressive in the low angle shots! Congrats Duke, that's going to turn a lot of heads! Gil
  14. Built this one for a co-worker who crewed P-3s in the Navy. Built OOTB; but I did have to make the bat tail art and paint the wing walks since the old kit decals were pretty well shot and I could find no aftermarket decals for VP-24. Now on to that 1/32 B-17E! GIL
  15. Good to see the Eboard mixing with the crowd.... Gil
  16. Based on the pic below, if you can't find any dedicated Russian model paints, I'd try looking at: Boeing Gray, ADC Gray, or Lt. Ghost Gray model paints to see which one you think best matches what you're looking for. As for the radome and bottom sides, I'd go with Tamiya Fine White Primer, which is just enough off white to match well. As for any other gray trim, like the strip on the fin's leading edge, I'd try Gunship Gray. Those are my suggestions for starting points lacking any "real" modern Russian Maritime colors. Hope this helps! Gil
  17. JAXCON 2022 IS A 2-DAY GO!! Jaxcon 2022 will be held next February 11th and 12th! In an effort to make Jaxcon even more enjoyable for the attendees and vendors, we're going to get the ball rolling on FRIDAY night (the 11th)! Why should YOU make plans to be there early? To start with, we'll be registering models from 6-8pm, so JAXCON will be "officially" open then. Second, we're going to FEED YOU! There will be a "pizza social hour" from 7-8pm as part of Jaxcon. And third, we're going to have a SPECIAL FRIDAY RAFFLE of several nice items (to be announced at a later date) that will be given away to FRIDAY attendees, and unavailable to win on Saturday! And there will be the vendors who've arrived on Friday, so you can get the jump on the vendors area too! Of course, Saturday will still be a full day of fun, with model registration, our HUGE raffle, even more vendors than before, judging, and the usual camaraderie found as you visit with friends all day. We're going to try to have 2 food trucks instead of just the one like last year so as to give our attendees an even better chance of not having to go anywhere to take care of their needs throughout the day. And, we still plan on having the awards presented and then conclude Jaxcon by 5pm, so anyone who wants to get home on Saturday night doesn't need to spend anything on an extra night's stay if they don't want to. Jaxcon 2022 will be held at the same location as Jaxcon 2021 earlier this year: the North Jacksonville Baptist Church assembly hall, 8531 N. Main St. (US-17), Jax, FL, 32218; which is on the north side of Jax, very near the Zoo. Those of you who made it last spring can attest to the large, will lit room; plenty of parking, and the ease of access from I-95. For those of you wanting a hotel, we suggest using one at the Jax International airport exit on I-95, just north of the I-295 interchange and about 10mins from the church. We'll also be trying to work a "deal" with one of them to save our attendees and vendors some money; more on that in the future! If you're A club contact, please pass this info along to all of your fellow model club members, and anyone else who you think would be interested in a weekend of modeling fun at Jaxcon 2022! Keep an eye out on our IPMS First Coast webpage and on the IPMS First Coast Facebook page for updated info on the show. We hope to see ALL Y'ALL at Jaxcon 2022 next February 11th and 12th! Gil Hodges Jaxcon 2022 Chairman
  18. I've got 44yrs continuous membership, and there's plenty with 10+ more than myself.....not aware of anyone getting recognized for staying a member continuously, and I've received nothing. That said, while a listing in the Journal would be nice, I'm not sure that the volunteers in office, nor the one person who runs the business office and handles most all membership work, is up to trying to track down everyone like us in addition to more important things. I don't feel any need to be recognized, and I also don't want IPMS to discount those many people who have been long time members with some minor interruptions to their membership time, which is probably more of the "norm" (like that gap in model building when you go to college/get married/have kids., etc.). IPMS HAS awarded Lifetime memberships to people, but it's always been based on service to the society over time, NOT on length of membership. Also, national judges are awarded pins for their years of service as judges after being recorded as having judged 10 times, 20 times, and more. I, for one, like the idea of IPMS recognizing service to the society over simply paying your dues every year. Gil
  19. Finished this one this evening....I closed up the ammo bays and gun bays, and left out the engine. The wing fold is a kit option, and fits very well either way. I did add all of the detail on the shelf behind the seat as KH provides absolutely nothing back there as well as the forgotten seat rails. I also lengthened the nose gear strut as KH molded it with almost no oleo showing (ala a museum bird); and turned it some "for that more candid look". By the way, the white on the wing tip lights is Micro Krystal Klear which hasn't dried yet! The markings are from Caracal and performed flawlessly. Pic of the work behind the seat.... Pic of the model in progress...see below for short cuts in building this kit! 1) Despite the instructions, you do NOT need the gun bay parts to build and fit the cockpit tub. Simply glue the 2 side walls to each side and the floor and leave all the other parts out. One note: TRIM THE RUDDER PEDALS...they're a bit too wide to fit in the spaces if you don't! 2) You need to cut the forward "U" shaped locating slots on the insides of the forward fuselage halves for the cockpit tub and make them into an "L" shape. Once this is done, the assembled tub CAN be inserted into the completed fuselage, and does NOT need the intake trunk for support. 3) Remove the locating pins from the cockpit tub bottom and the locating lugs from the top of the intake trunk and the assembled trunk can be slid into position under the cockpit tub in the assembled fuselage. You may need to remove part of the bottom rear of the intake trunking as it tends to hit the top of the gear bays when attaching the wing, complicating the wing's fit. 4) Most all of the doors fit very well on this kit. BUT, be aware that the attachment sprues require a bit more trimming as parts of them are on the inside gluing surfaces as well as the outside. The exception to this is if you want to close up the speed brakes....their arms require a LOT of trimming to fit into their slots and to allow the brakes to fit flush. 5) If you don't use the engine, you need to come up with an exhaust pipe for the tail. You can cut the one from the kit supplied engine, or as I did, use concentric plastic tubing in the rear. This provides a support tube that allows the exhaust tube to be placed inside at the end of the build, and also gives you a place to put a "handle" for painting the fuselage! 6) If you want to join the front and rear fuselages together, there's NO pins or tabs to help, and the bulkheads provided in the kit for detail do not aid in this either (I left them out too). Instead, you need to use some strip plastic in the inside of that joint to provide more strength and gluing surface. 7) You DO need to use the ammo bay part forward of the wings even if you close up the ammo bay doors. A section of the center bottom fuselage is molded integrally with the ammo bay. However, it can be added to the wings and that entire assembly can be added to the completed fuselage with only some slight trimming at the front of the fuselage wing roots. 8- The kit would have you add the nose gear assembly early, leaving it sticking out in the way for most of the build. Instead, the nose gear assembly CAN be built (though you'll wish for a 3rd hand!) and then SLID into place later, BUT...you have to grind off the ribbing in the front half of the nose gear well to do so. 9) The inside edges of the top wing roots need to be modified. There's a projection of the wing at the rear...saw it off so that the wing root edges of each top wing are a simple straight line from front to rear. This will allow the rear of the wing assembly bottom to fit much more flush with the fuselage, and help eliminate a step at that joint. Sorry to see KH call it quits. This is one of their better kits...hopefully someone will pick up the molds and release it again. GIL
  20. Welcome back Anthony! Glad to see you here, and hope to see ya at various FLA shows and Jaxcon up here next February! Gil
  21. Cool looking scheme! What exactly are those colors, top and bottom? The ghosting of the panel lines adds to the look too! Gil
  22. Nah.....that's not done.....it's very WELL DONE! I'd leave it alone for fear of screwing it up! Congrats! Gil
  23. March/April is the last one I have too.... Gil
  24. Wow! Now that's a prototype I was never aware of....Very nice work on the conversion! The plane itself might not have impressed the USAF, but obviously that gun did; becoming the standard gun in most fighters til this day! Thanks for sharing! Gil
  25. Wow...how did I miss this one!? Super looking Swallow and a fine tribute to the compassion warriors can show. Thanks for posting! Gil
  • Create New...