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ghodges

IPMS/USA Member
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ghodges last won the day on May 19

ghodges had the most liked content!

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Profile Information

  • FirstName
    Gil
  • LastName
    Hodges
  • IPMS Number
    10803
  • Local Chapter
    IPMS First Coast
  • City
    Orange Park
  • State
    Florida
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. My experience with Alclad is that it needs to be MISTED on in several fine coats. You do that, allowing it to build up until you have the coverage and "luster" you desire. You cannot spray it on in a "wet coat" like most other paints or it simply will not have the metallic luster it's meant to replicate. I've never had it come out truly "flat", but i have had it look more like aluminum paint instead of a NMF if I sprayed it on too heavily at one time. By the way, if your airbrush or spraying habits make "misting coats" troublesome for you, then give the AK Extreme Metallics a try. They do not NEED a primer coat (but it doesn't hurt either), they are maskable, they dry as fast as Alclad, and they CAN be sprayed in a more normal manner compared to Alclad. Hope this helps! Gil
  2. Don't know about warts, as I can't see any. Looks like you achieved your goal with the Alclad. Congrats, and thanks for posting! Gil
  3. Great looking NMF! What did you use? Gil
  4. My understanding is that the pic of Gentile's Mustang spinner above is a case of WEAR, and not ragged painting. As I mentioned above, the 4th FG occasionally had to buy paint from local sources. The white on the spinner is the original prop spinner color for the 4th, and the red was something Gentile had added. The red paint just didn't wear very well, flaking and peeling back to the point seen. There are earlier pics with the spinner being completely red, before it flew so many missions. Since the original question asked about judging an attempt to replicate that wear, in my mind it boils down to whether the builder can pull off that worn look IN SCALE. Otherwise it probably doesn't impress viewers or judges. Here is a pic of Shangra La after Gentile pranged it on the field during his last landing before rotating home (possibly on purpose). Note that the spinner had been repainted and is all red! Gil
  5. Impressive! Great job on the mods in that your work cannot be seen in that silver finish. Interesting comparison between the two too! Gil
  6. Beautiful Buccaneer! Gil
  7. Judging is always subjective....to address your specific question; IF the "ragged" paint edge on the prop on the model was done to "scale", and looked like it was a case of "field Painting" (versus sloppy modeling), then it's not gigged. BUT, much of the time, whether it's THIS or (perhaps) an attempt to paint invasion stripes in a "realistic" sloppy manner, the modeler cannot pull it off in scale. A more experienced judge MIGHT know that in the ETO there was a shortage of tape and often planes were masked and painted with wet newspaper, making for sloppy edge lines and overspray. Also, they often had to buy "local" stocks of paint (for houses and cars) and thus they didn't wear on the airplanes as well as aviation grade paints, leading to ragged wear lines. BUT, a LOT of judges DON'T know that....and thus will chalk up those attempts to failed model painting. You pays your money and ya takes your chances! My advice (as always) is build it the way YOU want to for your shelf, look at winning anything as "gravy", and don't worry if the judges know less than you and don't give you the benefit of the doubt. Gil
  8. Sharp sharp SHARP! Both the build and the presentation look outstanding! Gil
  9. Simply super! Thanks for letting us ride along! Gil
  10. Nice! That Japanese 'copter looks like a mish-mash of a couple of various older types. Reminds me I need to build some rotary wing kits! Congrats on finishing better than 1/week in April! Gil
  11. Thanks for tip Ron! Picked some of those up at the Space Coast show this weekend! GIL
  12. I've had this 1/48 Missing Link resin conversion for the Monogram Me-262A for decades to turn it into an Me-262B, and finally decided to build it! The conversion is simple and straight forward, only requiring the cutting down of the kit spine and the addition of the rear seater's cockpit tub. A very nice extended vacuform canopy is included, the nose radar "C" arms, as well as the seat and details for the rear cockpit. All in all, with the exception of drilling the radar arms to accept very fine wire radar antennas, this is an easy conversion. The only other thing worth mentioning is I tried a new technique for the side splotches. Instead of fighting with my airbrush, I cut VERY small swatches of sponge, held them with tweezers, dipped them into paint, blotted them off on a paper towel, and then DABBED the splotches onto the model. I was quite pleased with the result and it was MUCH easier than trying to spray them on! The model was rescribed and a brown sludge-wash applied. The markings are all from the Monogram kit, except for the black fuselage crosses. I didn't have ANY decals small enough to fit, so I made a stencil and sprayed the black crosses onto the sides. Anyway, happy to have this one built after it's sat in the stash since the 80s! Comments, critiques, and questions welcome, as always. Cheers! GIL
  13. Even after years of watching you do this, the number of projects you concurrently tackle is still mind boggling! Gil
  14. Glad to have ya back in the saddle and here with us Kevin! The modeling scene has changed, but mostly for the better. If you're missing the Tenax, try some Tamiya Thin cement, or (like me) order some Weld-On #4 directly from a plastics supplier, by the pint can! Model Master enamels are history now, but then Tamiya has just released a line of lacquer paints that should grow in the coming years. Make yourself at home and let us know how we can help you have FUN! Gil (still here since ya left in 2002!)
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