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ghodges last won the day on February 3

ghodges had the most liked content!

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About ghodges

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    Lord of the Sprue

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    IPMS First Coast
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    Orange Park
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  1. Great start on an older kit that was W-A-Y ahead of its time! Gil
  2. Impressive! I hope you've contacted Lockheed about getting paid.... Gil
  3. Nice build Ron! I'll have to look at getting one of those...since 1/48 armor is the only armor I build (once in a while) and I don't believe Tamiya or HB has done a Patton. Gil
  4. Good looking progress! I especially like the brightness of those green instruments on the main IP...looking forward to more! Gil
  5. Now THAT'S an eye popping Lancaster! Your conversion work is impeccable as you cannot tell what you did where, and that's no small feat on such a shiny finish. And SNJ huh? Old school still does the job! I just hope Sophie's not sporting some silver fur in spots.... That's a very pretty build indeed Ron. Congrats! Gil
  6. If you're talking about the decal that looks like a matrix of tiny dots.....I had the same problem! This is the best pic I've been able to find of the intake that sort of shows them... Almost any pics I've seen show them as quite faint, and should be more dark gray dots than black ....Hope this helps some! Good luck! Gil
  7. Glad you've joined us John! Jump in and make yourself at home! Gil
  8. Love your scratchbuilding...and it's so CLEAN....If I built that stuff there'd be glue smears galore on those pieces. If this even comes close to your Seahawk it'll be pure gold! Grabbing some popcorn and staying tuned.... Gil
  9. Absolutely stupendous! There's SO much eye candy there it's hard to take it all in.....I sure hope to be able to see it in person in Texas this summer! GIL
  10. Great looking build of a beautiful plane, and one not often seen. Thanks for letting us tag along! Gil
  11. Welcome Robert! Glad to have you here on the forum with the rest of we nuts! I cannot echo Ron's invite enough....the Rickenbacker club in Columbus is one of the best in all of IPMS and you'll certainly have fun with them. As an honorary lifetime member of the Columbus club (as long as I never move back! ), I can tell you that you'll get all the help you could possibly desire, and probably make some very good friends. In the meantime, please settle in here and make yourself at home! Gil
  12. Amazing! You're like the Energizer Bunny Builder and we just keep scrolling and scrolling and scrolling......;) Way to take advantage of the self quarantine! Gil
  13. "Just curious, how long did it take you to prep, and paint the fuselage colors? What was your final grit of sanding medium you used to prep it before you shot on the Alclad ?" Chris: I got it all sanded, primed, and painted in about a week to 10 days, including a few days to allow for drying. The wing itself was the most work, and there's probably a couple of hours work in order to first flatten the bottom belly contour (very coarse sanding sticks), then rough sand with 400 to start removing scratches and take off the Entex raised panel lines, and then 600 grit to smooth most everything out. After that, I wet sanded with worn 600 (fine) grit sticks to get a very smooth surface. The wing then needed rescribing, and that took a good hour or so. The gloss black primer pretty much fills in any imperfections left, but I did "polish" it with a rough paper towel (less than 5 mins) after letting it dry 24hrs. Although not mentioned, the kit canopy has to have the mold line on its top removed. It was gently scraped away, then I started with 600 grit and progressed with sanding/polishing pads from 1600-12000 grit, and then polished it with Novus polishing cream and cloths. That took about 30mins.... The Alclad painting is very fast, as it dries enough to mask over in less than 30mins. So, I misted on 2-3 coats of the Aluminum, waited about 15-20mins, then masked off (with Tamiya tape) the center wing panel, the gun panels, and the tail and painted the Alclad Dark Aluminum and Magnesium. All in all, the entire metallic finish (including the fiddly bits like gear and drop tanks) took about 1-2 hours to apply. The yellow COULD have been painted immediately, but it was applied the next day, and then since it's a gloss, I allowed 24hrs for it to set, and added the black trim the next day. The black trim took longer to mask off, since it had to be "measured and spaced" to get even results. You could certainly do more fine sanding and polishing than I did, and THAT shows in certain spots when you get up real close.....but then I'm not a perfectionist so I quit when I thought I had done enough to get the result I wanted. Hope that answered your questions. Let me know if it didn't. Thanks for the very kind words! GIL
  14. I wanted to build a Korean War F-86E in 1/48, but since they had a non-6/3 slatted wing, and NO 1/48 kit is made that way, you have to convert an "F" back to an "E". There are several resin conversion wings made...but most are put of production, all are hard to find, and they're all expensive. You can use a Revell F-86D Sabedog wing, but I chose a cheaper route, using an old Entex/Marusan F-86D Saberdog wing, which is a much cheaper way to go and doesn't sacrifice a truly nice kit. This is the 3rd time I've done this...having built an "A" and another "E" several decades ago...so this isn't anything new for me. The Entex wing is requires some modification to fit the Academy "F" fuselage I used for the conversion. The "belly" is too deep and has to be flattened significantly. This means you'll sand completely through the kit plastic, so the interior has to be backed with epoxy putty. In the pics below you can see the large patch of Apoxy Sclup I used for this. As you see, the wing has separate flaps, ailerons, and slats. This is a kit molded in the 60's, so the parts do require a lot of clean up, and they need to be modified to be added later in the build instead of being "trapped" while building the wing. The Academy center wheel wells were also transplanted to make up for a lack of detail in the Entex wells, along with the addition of plastic card and some tubing to act as gear sockets. You can see the large area of epoxy exposed by flattening the belly of the wing in the pic above. Once modified, it actually fit very well on the Academy fuselage. In any case, the filling and sanding needed to smooth it in is nothing compared to the previous work! The rest of the build is very straight forward, and for the most part was OOTB for the rest of the model. I was going to use Alclad metalic paints, so I sanded everything glass smooth, rescribed the wing, and then shot a coat of MM gloss black enamel (thinned with lacquer thinner) as a primer base. Alclad Aluminum was then misted on in several coats till I got the look I wanted. The wing center panel was painted dark aluminum, while the tail and gun panels were painted Magnesium. I wanted to do Clifford Jolley's "Jolly Roger" from the Korean War, so I painted the yellow and black stripes instead of using the provided decals. The decals were applied directly over the Alclad, and are a combo of Aeromaster and Academy kit decals. Although this conversion takes a lot of elbow grease, it's not really all that tough to do. I've wanted this Korean War F-86E on my shelf for a long time, and now I finally have it! Question, comments, and critiques welcome, as always! Gil
  15. Sweet! That brass really sets off those radiators. Looking forward to your next progress post! Gil
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