Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


ghodges last won the day on February 26

ghodges had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

544 Excellent

About ghodges

  • Rank
    Lord of the Sprue

Profile Information

  • FirstName
  • LastName
  • IPMS Number
  • Local Chapter
    IPMS First Coast
  • City
    Orange Park
  • State
  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

2,511 profile views
  1. After doing on on-line search of "Malta Spitfire images" I found the following.... This set appears to have Sgt. Weavers Spitfire included.... https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/3/6/0/952360-12741-33-pristine.jpg And this one appears to have both on the sheet...... https://www.sbmpics.com/sbmimages5/ksw172217.jpg Although a bit small, the profiles on those sheets at least show the side codes and basic desert camo used for them. You can do a more extensive search and maybe find out more...Hope this helps! Gil
  2. And they're fini! The Tamiya short nosed FW-190A3, OOTB, and in kit markings... And the classic Monogram FW-190A6 (with a few enhancements) using Aeromaster decals for Hermann Graf's Butcher Bird.... I'm satisfied with my initial attempt to shake off the rust and do some "real" airbrush camo, though it also taught me I have a ways to go before I can get the most from my knew airbrush. Questions, comments, and critiques welcome as always. Thanks for playing along! Gil
  3. That's some very quality work considering the pace at which you're knocking these out! Looking forward to the rest! Gil
  4. As the Brits say, I got the models "deckled" today........ Tamiya kit decals were used on the green one, while the gray one got markings from Aeromaster. I used hot water to help the Tamiya decals soften up and go down easier and they worked well. The Aeormaster decals needed more care in handling since they were thinner, but also went down well. I was actually quite impressed with how they snuggled down around the nose with a copius application of Champ decal solvent. The models have had all but the seats, props, and rear canopies added and have been flat coated so I can take
  5. I think you're on the right track using a strip of "something" to replicate the sewn fabric seams......The picture may a bit misleading since it's a close-up shot and makes the tape you're using look even more out of scale; but I think since YOU sense it's "too much", it is too much! What you're doing works really well in 1/48 and larger, but is probably a bit heavy handed for 1/72. Michael's idea of using decal strips could work... provided you have a set of stripes that you know are on the thick side. However, the problem with using decals is that they're actually designed to blend in a
  6. Got the camo done on both of them......had to do more touch ups than I'd hoped for, but as I said earlier, part of this is ME having to relearn things like formulating thinner paint ratios, use lower air pressure, and get used to being "dainty" when painting! Overall, I'm happy and it'll do for these models! Still have some trim colors to add, but overall they're almost ready for the gloss coat to prep for decalling. Gil
  7. Steve: Also, I hadn't heard the thing about picks on the dash... you have to fill me in on that one... maybe I should be putting a pick on my dashboard? Y'all keep your picks on the dashboard so y'all can park in the handicap spaces! And just to even things out....You know the difference between a drummer and a pizza delivery guy? The pizza delivery guy can support his family! Glad you're here! Party on! Gil
  8. Keep in mind applying the wash is an option...not a requirement. It'll be the difference between whether it looks like a museum display, or whether it was pulled out after usage. YOU get to decide how you want to have it look, despite any opinions here! Gil
  9. Ouch! Damn that got hot! If I may suggest...Get some Apoxy Sculp epoxy putty if you haven't got it already. Mix up enough to make the new nose (simply mix 50/50 parts together). Stick it on the nose and shape it with your hand like you would clay. Next, start dipping your fingers in alcohol and smoothing the putty nose to blend it into the model and to smooth it out. You should be able to get 95%+ of the "shape" you need to repair the nose doing this. After 24hrs it'll be dry enough to be sanded for final finish and blending. It'll add weight to the nose, repair it, and it does NOT heat u
  10. Sad to hear this....and another icon is gone. May the Lord bless his family and friends with all of their loving memories of him during this time of loss. Gil
  11. Glad to have you here with us Steven! Long time drummer here....so I know why you guitar players keep your picks on the dash of the car.... Glad to hear you and your family weathered (pun intended) the storm well! And yes, your coming back to the hobby makes you a member of a very large club within IPMS! Please make yourself at home and ask what questions you need. It sometimes takes a day or so; but there's a lot of people with a lot of knowledge who can point you in the right direction if not give you an answer themselves. Funny you mention Duplicolor....a guy at our last club
  12. Got the underside Blues applied today...... Though hard to tell the difference here, the left one is RLM-65 (early war) and the right one is the later war RLM-76. The 65 is bluer and the 76 is grayer, as far as the bottom colors go. It took more time than I thought it would to sufficiently cover the pre-shading, which means (I think) the airbrush was applying a much finer coat of paint than my old one. Tomorrow I'll try getting the top colors and mottling done all at the same time! We'll see........ Gil
  13. There's a SAFER wash that you can use on ANY type of paint...a SLUDGE WASH. Al you need are pastel chalks....the kind you usually use to brush/scrub on for weathering. Get the color chalk you want and scrape off some onto some wax paper so you (essentially) have a small pile of chalk dust. Now all you need to do is put it a container (I use a 2-liter bottle cap), add water and 1-2 drops of liquid dish washing soap, stir it all up and it's ready! You can make it as thin or thick as you feel is easiest to get the result you want. Slather it around details and into recessed panel lines
  14. This is taking shape quite nicely! You may want to try using electrical insulation for cockpit coaming.... Slit a length of old electrical wire lengthwise with a new #11 blade and pull out the wiring, leaving the hollow plastic coating. IF your cockpit edges are thin enough, you can simply pry the insulation apart and slide it around the opening, trimming it to the length you need, and then anchoring each end with a dot of superglue. If the cockpit edge is not thin, then slit the insulation lengthwise parallel to the first cut, but a little over so that you can remove a length of one side
  15. Astounding, impressive, and awesome! And really cool that you got to do such a display outside of the Nats! Thanks for sharing the pics Duke! Gil
  • Create New...