Jump to content

Bradley25mm

IPMS/USA Member
  • Posts

    326
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    19

Bradley25mm last won the day on October 9

Bradley25mm had the most liked content!

Reputation

60 Excellent

1 Follower

About Bradley25mm

  • Birthday March 25

Profile Information

  • FirstName
    Christopher
  • LastName
    Bowling
  • IPMS Number
    51552
  • Local Chapter
    Military Modelers Club of Louisville
  • City
    Louisville
  • State
    Kentucky
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Target shooting, and fishing.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,264 profile views
  1. Man, she turned out great. Two areas that REALLY stand out, are the wheel wells, and the cockpit. Glad you posed it on glass to see all that detailed work. Chris
  2. Finally got the fuselage closed up. I tested all the lights SEVERAL times, prior to glueing the halves together. I have two controllers for the lights. The small one lights the anti-collision lights, One on top of the fuselage, and one on the bottom. These are the only two that flash. The larger controller controls the nose gear landing lights, the cockpit dials , the navigation lights, and the engine lights. Chris
  3. I really like the wash that you used. Chris
  4. Gorgeous work my friend. Keep those pictures coming!!! Chris
  5. Bigger, is better. That turned out great Duke. chris
  6. Now there’s something you don’t see everyday. Awesome . Chris
  7. Truly, my favorite helicopter. Back in the 80’s, Monogram had the Rambo chopper, that was pretty cool. The only 1/32nd scale, to my knowledge ,was the Revell kit with a horrible nose, and main rotor mast. The Dragon 1/35th scale is ok, but need a lot of work to fix all the discrepancies. The rotor head, cockpit hood, the panel on the front section of the tail boom, and the bolt heads, I mean rivets, on the entire fuselage. Kitty Hawk put out some fantastic models, especially their 1/48th scale UH-1H. The best rendition I’ve seen thus far. A guy can wish, can’t he! Chris
  8. Last time I built a F-105G, I was in the 7th/8th grade. No paint, or decal, just good old Testors tube glue. Had a blast. Decided to add lights and sound. Went on YouTube, and found “F-105D startup”. I’m using a Bose Soundlink for a speaker. Going to build a jet blast wall to put it in, The lighting is the same kind I used to light up the inside of the Sherman. Hobby Lobby carries these mini LED light sets. They have a portion of a row devoted to different sets of these. Easy to use, and really cheap.
  9. Gil, Amazing build. My favorite bomber. Great detail all around. The engines look nice and busy. 😍😍. She’s gonna be a big one. chris
  10. All I’m in a bit of a pickle. I have all the parts for this kit, but not the color sheets showing the paint scheme, or most importantly, decal placement. Would someone be willing to take pictures of these sheets and send them to my email? I found a PDF file on Scale meets with the full instruction sheet for this kit, and the color sheets that I need. The problem is when I try to blow them up to make them bigger, the decals are practically illegible. Thanks for any help that someone might be able to provide. chris
  11. Thanks Gil. The overall construction was straight forward. The fit of all the parts was amazing. Especially the canopy. A couple of areas I improved on: The cockpit. I got the photo sets from Eduard. Instrument panels, and seat belts. I had to rebuild the collective handle supplied with the kit for the back seat. It was void of detail. In photos I referenced, it looks exactly like a UH-1 collective. I used Athletic tape to simulate fabric on the seat cushions. (The same type I used on the 1/32nd scale H.A.S Lynx). The Transmission: The Eduard set for the cockpit also included parts to dress up the transmission. I added solder for lines, and scrap parts to add more detail. The main rotor: I love the way that ICM designed the construction. The blade grips are not molded on the rotor blades. This makes painting ALOT easier. One thing that sticks out on the rotor blades are the blade tie down points on the end of each blade. A really nice touch, for sure. Once built, you need to be careful handling it. The rotor mast is to scale, but quite flimsy. If I had to do it over, I would have either replaced it with brass rod, or slid brass rod over the existing shaft. The tail rotor: I cut off the shaft that that was molded on. I added a longer, and smaller shaft. The tail rotor itself is the most accurate representation of the real thing that I’ve seen in a model kit. From the blade grips, to the control linkages. Kudos to their design team. The barrier retaining walls were made from Evergreen plastic sheet, and u beams. The Marston matting is from Tom’s Model works. I had to scratch build a blade tie down hook system. The real one has a bean bag on one end of a large red heavy duty strap. You toss the bean bag over the main rotor to help you pull it down to put the hook in the blade tie down point. You then wrap this strap around the tail boom to keep the main rotor from flapping all over the place. The extra rocket, and mini gun pods: I scratch built the yellow racks they sit in. Overall, a really fun build. I can’t wait until ICM starts to release their other helos. (1/35th scale CH-54😁😁).
  12. Finally complete!!. My hat goes off to you Armor guys. Chris
  13. All, I’ve started on the construction of the above. I’m trying to find some accurate reference material. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Hopefully there might be a few Cobra drivers on this feed that can help. Much appreciated. Chris
  14. All , Had to take a break from building models for a while. Moved my model building area to a larger closet. After seeing an article in Fine Scale Modeler, I decided to make a closet into a build area. I added an electrical strip to plug all of my lights in. Added some shelves, and a work bench, and Wala!!!. When I’m done building for the day, I can simply close the doors, no matter what the mess on my desk is. All of the lighting is LED from Lowes( reduces heat, and a saving on my electric bill). If you want a cozy place to build your models, convert one of your closets into one. Chris
×
×
  • Create New...