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Ron Bell

IPMS/USA Executive Board
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Ron Bell last won the day on January 6

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About Ron Bell

  • Rank
    Acrylic Addict
  • Birthday 06/05/1948

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    Eddie Rickenbacker
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  • Location
    Columbus, Ohio
  • Interests
    Braille scale British armor, classic kits, just getting in to ships.
  1. Aurora Fokker/B25

    Looked all this up in Thomas Graham's "Aurora Models" book and got this: The D-7 and SE-5 were originally flying models converted to screwdriver kits. They are both 1/19 scale and go for around $100 The B-25 was also a flying model converted to screwdriver assembly, is in 1/32 scale and goes for around $200 There was also a P-51 and P-40 in 1/27 scale, both of which were flying models acquired from Comet models and converted to screwdriver assembly. They go for around $100.
  2. Airfix Be2C nightfighter

    My rigging material of choice is stretched sprue. Cheap and available in a bunch of colors.
  3. Airfix Be2C nightfighter

    The Be2C gets a bit of a bad rap in as much as it was very good at what it was designed for when it was designed, but it was used for the wrong purpose way after it shouldn't have been used at all. It was an excellent recon/spotting a/c, being very stable with good range. However, being stable is the last thing you want in a fighter, but with no other designs ready, the British were forced to use it as just that and accordingly they were shot out of the skies in droves. When better designs finally replace it in the front line in France, it found a home for a while with the Home Defense Forces during the first Blitz by Germany's dirigibles. They were modified in some cases with the front cockpit being filled with an extra fuel tank and then faired over. The m/g was also moved to either a mount just in front of the pilot facing up or in the case of this model, into a Ross mount on top of the wing. While they had mixed success, a night fighting Be2C brought down the first dirigible shot down over England, earning a VC for it's pilot, Lt. W. Leefe-Robinson, in 1916. Here's a Be2C piloted by Flt. Sub. Lt. Buck out of RNAS Eastchurch in Sept. 1916. Painted all black with the white of the insignias and fin flash eliminated, and converted with a faired over front cockpit and top of the wing gun mount. The kit is Airfix's new tooled and very nice kit that goes together like a dream.
  4. This was a relatively simple conversion using the Maintrack Productions conversion, # 72/34. You get a sheet of instructions and a solid resin fuselage with a square hole in it for a cockpit, a prop and an acetate vacu-formed canopy/turtleback. The detail is minimal. The rather prominent exhaust stacks are kind of mushy in appearance, so I replaced them with ones from the spares box. The bottom of the part looked like someone had shot it repeatedly with birdshot, it being covered in small and medium holes. The small ones were too small for putty, so I just tried primer. That filled some, but not all. I then used Tamiya filler/primer and it got most. The larger ones I had to use putty. There were a series of fill, sand, prime, fill more, sand, prime operations, but I still missed a few. Oh well. You use the wings from the Airfix kit, but need to remove the cannon bulges on the top and the bomb racks on the bottom and fill the resulting holes. You also need to fill the holes where the cannons would be mounted as neither of the two prototypes was ever armed. You use the kit's elevators and landing gear, but you are told to make new gear doors from sheet plastic as the ones in the kit are quite thick. You are also advised to box in the open wheel wells. Then you need to cut the canopy to fit, which is tricky as there are no demarcation lines on the part at all. I cut down the kit's pilot and seat to fit so he would fill up some of the space under the canopy as there was nothing else in there. It's a kit of a rare bird that probably would not have done well as the Vulture engine proved itself underpowered and unreliable in other aircraft.
  5. Panel Lines

    Not an expert in this area, but I do know that there is a school of thought that says you shouldn't accent panel lines as they would not be visible on the real thing at the scale distance we view them. If you look at a 1/48 scale model from three feet away, it's like looking at the real thing from 144 feet away, over a third of a football field. Given that the gaps on new aircraft panels is measured in tenths or less of inches, it is argued that you wouldn't see them at all. Due to maintenance, replacement or repainting, the panels themselves may be slightly different shades, but the panel lines would not be visible. All the current vogue of pre and/or post shading or washes or dry-brushing are more for an artistic effect than to reflect reality. As I said, that's one school of thought, but it would allow you to build all those nice old Monogram kits you have stashed away without worrying about panel lines. I know this may start up a debate, but it's all just opinion and preference.
  6. Roden 1/72 Rolls Royce armored car

    Second picture is the dash board that is completely invisible when you close it all up.
  7. Roden 1/72 Rolls Royce armored car

    Thiis is a nice kit, but needs close attention to fit and seams. I replaced the fighting compartment doors with thinner sheet stock, cut out the turrent hatches and made replacements from sheet stock and thinned the radiator doors and detailed their inside. Added interior as well, which like most a/c models can't be seen. Irish flag is from paper and sharpie markers. DSCN4855 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/156489113@N02/
  8. True to its name, Blizzcon in Columbus, Ohio had snow falling in the afternoon. Hardly a blizzard as none of it stuck, but it was snow. We wound up with 622 entries, up quite a bit from the last few years and a full vendor's room. Don't know about photos as our regular photog was filling in for our regular guy who runs our silent auction. We also signed up 5 new national members using this program: http://www.ipmsusa.org/member_services/membership_recruitment.shtml Contact our office manager and she can send you some extra Journals to use for samples and brochures to hand out. Print off the forms and sign and sign them up at the show. If every show in the US recruited 3-5 members, imagine the spike in membership! All it takes is one guy sitting at a table for a few hours. Don't know how it could get any easier.
  9. 3-Stage Ferry Rocket--1955

    Vey nice job on an ancient simplistic kit. I, too, remember that show fondly. Always favored the Tomorrow Land episodes above all others. Nice touch with the railings. Looking at them, just think how huge this thing would have been in real life. I would have given a Saturn V a run for its money!
  10. The dates on their bid for 2019 were August 7-10, 2019.
  11. Gil, Congrats on a great show. Remember when there weren't even 400 models at the regionals we went to, never mind over 500! Good job Jacksonville.
  12. 1/72 Roden 8 inch howitzer with FWD Model B ammo truck

    The camo was done in stages. Everything was sprayed light grey first. Then I masked the lt. grey areas roughly with silly putty and sprayed any other colors that did not touch the grey. These were all enamels. Then, to avoid lifting the undercoats, I brushed on the other colors in acrylics to the approximate demarcation lines, then did the black with a fine brush and acrylic black. Tedious, but it worked
  13. 1/48 M-10 Tank Destroyer

    Those are such nice kits and you did a good job. Nice weathering as well.
  14. This can be purchased as a set or individually. The gun is a very nice, detailed rendering. The iron "tires" on the wheels are done as separate vinyl parts that are too short but with a little judicious stretching and using super glue, they fit. While they are too wide (the real ones did hang over the rims, but not this much), some trimming worked fine. The gun can be built either "in battery" or "in transport" configuration. Unfortunately, they don't tell you that in the instructions. They tell you to glue the gun lock (that thing on top of the trail on the right side) across the box of the trail as it would be in travel mode, which is fine except they also tell you to glue all the gun mount and site parts in place which locks the gun in a firing position. To put the gun out of battery, you would need to not glue the gun mounts or the sight until the gun lock is in place and you can set the gun on it and the glue the rest in position. Let's just say they are typical Roden instructions. As to the truck, I've built a LOT of small scale models and this may be the fiddliest I've ever done. Many parts are smaller than the sprue gates and extreme care must be taken in their removal and clean up. The undercarriage is quite detailed, but the instructions are poor. However, the illustrations of the parts are rendered very well so you can use the pictures to identify parts and locations. The caisson is very delicate. I broke one axel without even knowing it. All told it makes up into a very nice little display and would lend itself well to a diorama.
  15. Flying to Nats

    I carry my entries in what was called in the day a Train Case. It's a small suitcase with a handle on the top. It fits nicely under the seat. Got it at a flea market or garage sale. I've also jerry rigged boxes to do the same task when I needed a skosh more room with a make-shift handle. I make sure my entries are secure inside and put it in a tub to go through the xray machine as those lead flaps at the openings can turn a light article like this topsy-turvy with disastrous results to the contents. If your item has ANY metal in or on it, it may catch their eye and you'll have to open it up. Whatever you use, ensure that it can be opened and closed easily and the model seen without obstruction, just in case. Only problem I ever had was when I learned the lesson about the lead flaps and when I once took a white metal kit, which caused the xray thingy to blink. That case never leaves my side.