Jump to content

Ron Bell

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Ron Bell last won the day on September 1

Ron Bell had the most liked content!


397 Excellent


About Ron Bell

  • Birthday 06/05/1948

Profile Information

  • FirstName
  • LastName
  • IPMS Number
  • Local Chapter
    Eddie Rickenbacker
  • City
  • State
  • Gender
  • Location
    Columbus, Ohio
  • Interests
    Braille scale British armor, classic kits, just getting in to ships.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,739 profile views
  1. I've got a set of the 2023 decals you can have, one modeler to another. PM me your address and I'll put them in the mail.
  2. Nice job. Looks better than the real car did. Now see if you can find an AMC Pacer and you could have two of the worst cars ever made.
  3. As a follow up. Vargas neither responded to a query via their web site "contact" button nor to a PM sent via Face Book. Now I'm stuck with an essentially unbuildable $30 model. I'll take the offending parts to Madison next summer and hope that they are there as a vender so maybe I can get an exchange.
  4. Paul, Will do. Thanks. Ron
  5. I purchased their 1/72 Liberty International Tank MkVIII kit and the runner/sprue with the detail parts must have shifted during printing because all the parts are "bent" the same amount at the same point. If you use the address given in their kits, you get all sorts of stuff about them on other sites, but not their site. The only way I got to their site was via the IPMS/USA review of one of their kits. It has a contact function, but after a week I have gotten no reply and I have now resent my message. Anyone out there have a better idea how to contact them?
  6. James, in this scale they were almost impossible to deal with and to remover them would have involved removing most of the detail. The paint covered most and I can live with the rest.
  7. This is a 3D printed model from Vargas. They do a variety of American Civil War and between the world wars subjects in both 1/35 an 1/72. The Type 1 was a private venture by Vickers and combined aspects of the British mediums in its rhomboid shaped track run and the French FT-17 in having its armament in a revolving turret instead of sponsons on the side. It had a crew of three and was only armed with machine guns. A second prototype was also built that had some changes in automotive parts as well as having one more MG in the turret rear pointed up for anti-aircraft work. The final version, the No 2, was only a design and was not built. It's distinction was that it carried a 47MM (3 prd) gun in the turret and was the first tank designed specifically for anti-tank work. The type was abandoned after trials revealed serious transmission problems. The Vargas kit consists of only eight parts and is beautifully printed with no flash not mold seams (as there are no molds used, that is logical). There are some striations on the back and nose of the hull that are evidence of the 3D printing process. Everything fit perfectly and with painting makes an excellent addition to my between the wars collection. I'm no figure painter, as is obvious, but the figure is included to give you a sense of how small this vehicle was in reality.
  8. I think Tamiya released that kit in a couple of versions. One was with the torpedo and another with bombs/flares, etc. You may have gotten the one that did not use the torp.
  9. Another derivation I have read about the name "Stringbag" is that with all the rigging it had they said it resembled the knitted/crocheted (out of strings assumedly) bags women took with them to the market to carry all their purchases and since the Swordfish could carry all sorts of ordinance such as torpedoes, bombs, flares, depth charges, etc, the name "stringbag" seemed fitting.
  10. As to stretching sprue, here's a quick primmer. All sprue is not equal. Some company's stretch easily and well (Tamiya) and others not so much (Matchbox). Try sprues from various manufacturers to find one that works well for you. Get a cheap votive style candle, the short squat ones. It will burn with a nice steady flame and not fall over. Get a length of the sprue you are using and cut it into about 3 inch lengths. Holding it from both ends, hold it just over, not in, the flame and keep turning it. You will see it get shiny and feel that it is loosening. When you can feel it being "bendable", which will take some practice, take it out of the heat and pull the two ends apart from each other. Go slow for thicker sprue, faster for thinner. When you feel the sprue start to resist stop and let one end hang in the air. This will keep the sprue straight as it cools. I tape one end to a door and let it sit for a few minutes. Then I cut it as I need it. If the sprue is not soft enough it will just snap. No problem, sprue is cheap, so start again. It does take practice and there is a 'feel' for when the sprue is ready to stretch, but if you can master this, you can make rod stock in almost any thickness you want.
  11. Another possibility is what is known as beading wire. It's sold in craft stores and is used to make bracelets, necklaces and the like. It comes in many thicknesses and made from many materials ranging from elastic threat to aluminum. The aluminum might be "flattenable". The stuff is cheap, has a myriad of other uses and one spool/loop will last a long time.
  12. You could use stretched sprue. Cheap and easy to work with. This is my 1/72 scale old Airfix Swordfish rigged with stretched sprue so you can see that it works.
  13. When I said "a length of it between ..." I meant like 5 or so feet or more even to be sure, the hose is cheap. Actually, I just used an entire coil and then used the airbrush's original line to connect from the water trap to the airbrush. You can coil it up to save space.
  14. I use a Sears compressor that is around 20 years old and still chugging along. It came with a 'sort of regulator' but I don't know how accurate it is but it does what I need anyway. As to the water trap, the directions to mine said to attach it directly to the compressor. When I did that it didn't work. A friend told me to get a cheap air hose like from Harbour Freight, and attach a length of it between the compressor and the trap. Then have a line from the trap to the airbrush. Now it works like a charm in even the most humid conditions. The physics are when you compress air it heats up and hot air retains moisture better than cool air. If the trap is attached directly to the compressor, the air going through it is still hot so it doesn't lose enough moisture. If the trap is further down the line, the air has cooled more and when it passes through the trap it loses much more moisture. Anyway, works for me.
  • Create New...