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Ron Bell

IPMS/USA Executive Board
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Everything posted by Ron Bell

  1. Another in this line of kits. Only added a very basic interior. Had to replace the kit's decals as they were browned than the paint I used on the fuselage.
  2. This was just for fun. It's a seven part kit that is surprisingly nicely cast. It could liven up a 1/144 scale airfield diorama.
  3. Kit is in HO scale, which is 1/87. The track is just a section of HO model rr track cut down to fit.
  4. Took a break from some longer term projects. Thought this would be a quick build/finish and it was. Ancient kit, needed some clean up, but really not that much. Replaced the molded in hand rails, but that's all. It's pretty cute. As usual with close up photos, you find the things you need to fix, and I will.
  5. Its Testors Aluminum. Just shows what lighting can do to color in a photo. I screwed up the footstep decals that came with the kit, so I customized ones from an old Matchbox Wellesley kit to at least look the part.
  6. Don't know if you have much experience with Valom kits, but they are about two steps above a limited release injection molded kit. Parts look good, but fit is iffy. Clear parts well done, but seldom fit. Much PE included that is small, fiddly and can't be seen. However, they make kits of subjects no one else does, Enter the Bristol Bombay. First flown in1935, it was designed as what was then known as a bomber/transport. It could do either but neither really well. It did serve as a bomber in the near east and Ethiopia and as a transport all over Europe. It was similar in capacity and performance to a Ju-52, which was also designed to be a a bomber/transport. Its greatest claim to fame was that this aircraft type changed the course of the war in North Africa. When Auchileck was sacked, Gott was named his successor and immediately flew to the front in a Bombay,, which was subsequently shot down, killing Gott and leading to the appointment of Montgomery and we all know the story from there. The kit is done OOTB and I even left out much of the interior as it just couldn't be seen. The clear parts for the windows were omitted as fit was problematic and I did them with Krystal Kleer with a coat of Johnson's Klear. Weathering, shading was done with pastels. Looks like a Bombay, but will never win any contests.
  7. Contact John Heck at artdirector@ipmsusa.org. He's the guy that actually puts the mag together and I know he's always looking for material.
  8. Duke, keep it up and you'll need a semi to get your collection to the next nationals! That turret would make a cool diorama.
  9. Mike, Yes, white can be tricky. Only way I can get it right is that since white covers so poorly and you may have different colored things on your model such as fillers, PE parts or other colored plastic, to get one color that the white can cover, first apply a light grey primer, then a coat of FLAT white that covers the primer evenly. When that is set, if it is at all rough, go over it with either very fine sandpaper (600 grit or higher) or very fine steel wool being careful to avoid burning through the white. Gil Hodges has even been known to use a small piece of burlap as a buffer as it is soft yet has just the right amount of "grit". When you've removed any orange-peel, apply fine coats of gloss white until a nice even color is achieved. As painters say, keep a wet edge. If you apply gloss white over gloss white that has started to "skin" over, it won't mix with then paint already applied and will sit on top and may orange peel. Then leave it alone for at least a day so the top coat can set. It's a little involved, but does produce an even coat of white. You can use this same procedure for other "problem" colors such as red or yellow, just use the flat version of those colors for the coat between the primer and top coat.
  10. In keeping with their tradition of designing particularly ungainly aircraft, this was the British Army's heavy lift aircraft during the Cold War. Don't let the scale fool you. In 1/144 it has a 13 inch wingspan. That would be 26 inches in 1/72. A Halifax in that scale has a 15 inch wing span, so that gives you a point of comparison. It was a BIG aircraft. It could carry cargo and/or paratroopers. Google it and see how the troopers loaded and jumped. Weird, but it worked. The kit was typical MIkro Mir, a mix of nice molding, decent fit, but vague instructions as to what went where, especially when it came to the PE parts. It comes with a pretty detailed, at least for this scale, flight deck and cargo area. The rear clamshell doors have interior detail as does the fuselage, so if you can find some 1/144 scale British troops or vehicles, it could make a neat diorama. I was going to do mine buttoned up, so I just left all that out simplifying assembly greatly. The decals were just outstanding, being opaque, thin and tough. They settled down nicely. This was obviously going to be a tail sitter, so I made sure to have plenty of weight in the nose area, but even with that, it still settled on its hind end, so I had to make a prop for it out of an old clear plastic stand.
  11. This is pretty silly and I'm sure is just a typo, but is pretty ironic. Did anyone really read the title of this thread? Accuarcy? Made me giggle.
  12. Let's use armor as an example. A given judge may be an "expert" on the M-4 Sherman. He knows every nut and bolt on every variant and judges Shermans accordingly. However, he doesn't know squat about German tanks, so he can't/doesn't judge accuracy on them. Is it fair that the Sherman is judged for accuracy and the Panzer IV not? Our members build such a bewildering number of types and sub-types of variants of so many different subjects that we can't have judges that are experts on everything so that everything is judged the same, so to be fair, we shouldn't judge it until we're down to maybe the top few that are the same quality assembly-wise to try to pick the winner. At that point, judging teams will usually call in "so and so" because he "knows" the subject better than anyone on their own team to help with accuracy.
  13. Not many kits of this vehicle around, so I jumped on this when I found it. One tricky part was the car itself is done in two halves, front and back, making for a long seam all the way around the middle of the car. It filled in pretty well, but took some doing to make it "go away" as is always the case with seams on flat surfaces. Also, if you put the provided spring parts on the locators called out, the body winds up way too high. Removing the locators brings everything into alignment, Just noticed that I forgot to paint the search light lens. Oh well. Back to the work bench. Looks nice when done and fills a niche in my modern British vehicles collection.
  14. Excellent work. Just for comparison, here's the first model of this vehicle in 1/35/2 scale, the old Monogram one. What a difference 40 years makes.
  15. Nice idea, if you have a printer that could do that, which I don't. But thanks anyway.
  16. I have an Eindekker with no markings and can find no, I repeat, no, aftermarket early WWI Maltese cross decals in 1/48. I found 1/144, 1/72 even 1/24 and 1/32, but no 1/48. Anyone know of any or have a spare set from a kit? If not, this one goes back on the shelf unfinished.
  17. Not common place, but it there is no other way to tell one model's flaws from another, yes, it may happen. They are cautioned to use extreme care and use it as a last resort, but yes, they may do it. Remember, these are 3D representations of prototypes, so must be judged in the same dimensions.
  18. Collin. Your question would be best directed to the IPMS/USA Chief Judge, Mark Persichetti at NCC@ipmsusa.org . That way you will get the official answer instead of just opinions on this board.
  19. OK, its not a real TNH, but the Tamiya 1/48 Panzer 38(T). The tank was developed in Czechoslovakia just before the war started. As a matter of fact, it wasn't even in service yet when the conflict began, so this example is rather spurious in its markings. The Germans thought so much of the vehicle they modified them slightly and equipped whole armored divisions with them (Rommels 7th in France for one) right up to the Russian campaign. The 37mm gun was as good or better as that mounted on any German tank at the time (with the possible exception or the Mk IV, but that 75mm was a short barreled infantry support weapon and besides that there were very few of them, even in France.) the armor was comparable and it was very dependable. The camo is typical per-war Czech camo. The little flag on the turret is from my imagination. I can't find many photos of pre-war Czech armor in Czech service, but it seems logical they would have some sort of national markings on their vehicles. I did this one strictly OOTB. These 1/48 Tamiya kits are just a delight to build. Fit is excellent and detail is very good. Tjhe length and link tracks are nicely done, but can be fiddly to get right and you can see a couple of my problem areas if you look closely. If you're not an armor builder but wonder what all the fuss is about with armor models, give one of these 1/48 kits a try OOTB. I bet you'll have fun with it.
  20. I've had this one done for a while and just got around to rigging it. Usual out of the box with a minimum interior added. The decals were way gone and I didn't want to spend stupid money for new ones, so these are spurious markings I cobbled together and a paint scheme that is an amalgam of several I have seen. The rockets were used to shoot at zeppelins and observation balloons, but most sources cannot site where one was actually shot down with them.
  21. The shading is something I am working on. After I have applied the last flat/dull coat, I have been using pastels applied with those small plastic sponge applicators you can buy. I pick a shade of the color on the model either a little lighter or darker and then rub the applicator on the pastel to get some on it and then drag/rub it along the panel line. After I"m done, I use a broad softer paint brush to even out the finish and blend the shading in. It's not perfect and I don''t know if it ever will be, but it is MUCH easier than all that pre-post shade painting and puts less paint on the model itself. Plus, if you screw up, you can wash it off and try again.
  22. This is a typical Special Hobby mixed media kit. Mostly injection plastic parts with some for inexplicable reasons in cast resin and a small PE fret. the instructions are vague at best. Some confusion arises as this is based on their Skua kit and there are some parts not used and others that are substituted for other parts. It goes together pretty well and has a detailed cockpit, but the canopy is molded in one piece so it is pretty invisible. One problem, however, was that the quad mg's mount was wider than the slots in the turret, but when you cut it down to fit the turret, it's too narrow to span the turtleback fairing behind the turret. That's why the guns are up in the air on mine. In reality the a/c was a complete failure, even as a target tow. It did, however, have one confirmed kill while escorted by several Skuas, a Ju-88 in Norway. Speaking of Skuas, that last picture is with an old Frog Skua for comparison.
  23. Yeah, it was so streamlined that it hardly impeded the airflow. 😲 In a strong head wind, at max speed I think it could hover
  24. A true expert needs to reply, but I'd say you're correct. That's not just an exhaust, it's a flame dampener. It is a sort of "stealth mechanism" that make the a/c harder to see at night. I'm guessing those fins keep the pipe from glowing and giving the a/c away in the dark.
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