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Ron Bell

IPMS/USA Executive Board
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Everything posted by Ron Bell

  1. Contact John Heck at artdirector@ipmsusa.org. He's the guy that actually puts the mag together and I know he's always looking for material.
  2. Duke, keep it up and you'll need a semi to get your collection to the next nationals! That turret would make a cool diorama.
  3. Mike, Yes, white can be tricky. Only way I can get it right is that since white covers so poorly and you may have different colored things on your model such as fillers, PE parts or other colored plastic, to get one color that the white can cover, first apply a light grey primer, then a coat of FLAT white that covers the primer evenly. When that is set, if it is at all rough, go over it with either very fine sandpaper (600 grit or higher) or very fine steel wool being careful to avoid burning through the white. Gil Hodges has even been known to use a small piece of burlap as a buffer as it is soft yet has just the right amount of "grit". When you've removed any orange-peel, apply fine coats of gloss white until a nice even color is achieved. As painters say, keep a wet edge. If you apply gloss white over gloss white that has started to "skin" over, it won't mix with then paint already applied and will sit on top and may orange peel. Then leave it alone for at least a day so the top coat can set. It's a little involved, but does produce an even coat of white. You can use this same procedure for other "problem" colors such as red or yellow, just use the flat version of those colors for the coat between the primer and top coat.
  4. In keeping with their tradition of designing particularly ungainly aircraft, this was the British Army's heavy lift aircraft during the Cold War. Don't let the scale fool you. In 1/144 it has a 13 inch wingspan. That would be 26 inches in 1/72. A Halifax in that scale has a 15 inch wing span, so that gives you a point of comparison. It was a BIG aircraft. It could carry cargo and/or paratroopers. Google it and see how the troopers loaded and jumped. Weird, but it worked. The kit was typical MIkro Mir, a mix of nice molding, decent fit, but vague instructions as to what went where, especially when it came to the PE parts. It comes with a pretty detailed, at least for this scale, flight deck and cargo area. The rear clamshell doors have interior detail as does the fuselage, so if you can find some 1/144 scale British troops or vehicles, it could make a neat diorama. I was going to do mine buttoned up, so I just left all that out simplifying assembly greatly. The decals were just outstanding, being opaque, thin and tough. They settled down nicely. This was obviously going to be a tail sitter, so I made sure to have plenty of weight in the nose area, but even with that, it still settled on its hind end, so I had to make a prop for it out of an old clear plastic stand.
  5. This is pretty silly and I'm sure is just a typo, but is pretty ironic. Did anyone really read the title of this thread? Accuarcy? Made me giggle.
  6. Let's use armor as an example. A given judge may be an "expert" on the M-4 Sherman. He knows every nut and bolt on every variant and judges Shermans accordingly. However, he doesn't know squat about German tanks, so he can't/doesn't judge accuracy on them. Is it fair that the Sherman is judged for accuracy and the Panzer IV not? Our members build such a bewildering number of types and sub-types of variants of so many different subjects that we can't have judges that are experts on everything so that everything is judged the same, so to be fair, we shouldn't judge it until we're down to maybe the top few that are the same quality assembly-wise to try to pick the winner. At that point, judging teams will usually call in "so and so" because he "knows" the subject better than anyone on their own team to help with accuracy.
  7. Not many kits of this vehicle around, so I jumped on this when I found it. One tricky part was the car itself is done in two halves, front and back, making for a long seam all the way around the middle of the car. It filled in pretty well, but took some doing to make it "go away" as is always the case with seams on flat surfaces. Also, if you put the provided spring parts on the locators called out, the body winds up way too high. Removing the locators brings everything into alignment, Just noticed that I forgot to paint the search light lens. Oh well. Back to the work bench. Looks nice when done and fills a niche in my modern British vehicles collection.
  8. Excellent work. Just for comparison, here's the first model of this vehicle in 1/35/2 scale, the old Monogram one. What a difference 40 years makes.
  9. Nice idea, if you have a printer that could do that, which I don't. But thanks anyway.
  10. I have an Eindekker with no markings and can find no, I repeat, no, aftermarket early WWI Maltese cross decals in 1/48. I found 1/144, 1/72 even 1/24 and 1/32, but no 1/48. Anyone know of any or have a spare set from a kit? If not, this one goes back on the shelf unfinished.
  11. Not common place, but it there is no other way to tell one model's flaws from another, yes, it may happen. They are cautioned to use extreme care and use it as a last resort, but yes, they may do it. Remember, these are 3D representations of prototypes, so must be judged in the same dimensions.
  12. Collin. Your question would be best directed to the IPMS/USA Chief Judge, Mark Persichetti at NCC@ipmsusa.org . That way you will get the official answer instead of just opinions on this board.
  13. OK, its not a real TNH, but the Tamiya 1/48 Panzer 38(T). The tank was developed in Czechoslovakia just before the war started. As a matter of fact, it wasn't even in service yet when the conflict began, so this example is rather spurious in its markings. The Germans thought so much of the vehicle they modified them slightly and equipped whole armored divisions with them (Rommels 7th in France for one) right up to the Russian campaign. The 37mm gun was as good or better as that mounted on any German tank at the time (with the possible exception or the Mk IV, but that 75mm was a short barreled infantry support weapon and besides that there were very few of them, even in France.) the armor was comparable and it was very dependable. The camo is typical per-war Czech camo. The little flag on the turret is from my imagination. I can't find many photos of pre-war Czech armor in Czech service, but it seems logical they would have some sort of national markings on their vehicles. I did this one strictly OOTB. These 1/48 Tamiya kits are just a delight to build. Fit is excellent and detail is very good. Tjhe length and link tracks are nicely done, but can be fiddly to get right and you can see a couple of my problem areas if you look closely. If you're not an armor builder but wonder what all the fuss is about with armor models, give one of these 1/48 kits a try OOTB. I bet you'll have fun with it.
  14. I've had this one done for a while and just got around to rigging it. Usual out of the box with a minimum interior added. The decals were way gone and I didn't want to spend stupid money for new ones, so these are spurious markings I cobbled together and a paint scheme that is an amalgam of several I have seen. The rockets were used to shoot at zeppelins and observation balloons, but most sources cannot site where one was actually shot down with them.
  15. The shading is something I am working on. After I have applied the last flat/dull coat, I have been using pastels applied with those small plastic sponge applicators you can buy. I pick a shade of the color on the model either a little lighter or darker and then rub the applicator on the pastel to get some on it and then drag/rub it along the panel line. After I"m done, I use a broad softer paint brush to even out the finish and blend the shading in. It's not perfect and I don''t know if it ever will be, but it is MUCH easier than all that pre-post shade painting and puts less paint on the model itself. Plus, if you screw up, you can wash it off and try again.
  16. This is a typical Special Hobby mixed media kit. Mostly injection plastic parts with some for inexplicable reasons in cast resin and a small PE fret. the instructions are vague at best. Some confusion arises as this is based on their Skua kit and there are some parts not used and others that are substituted for other parts. It goes together pretty well and has a detailed cockpit, but the canopy is molded in one piece so it is pretty invisible. One problem, however, was that the quad mg's mount was wider than the slots in the turret, but when you cut it down to fit the turret, it's too narrow to span the turtleback fairing behind the turret. That's why the guns are up in the air on mine. In reality the a/c was a complete failure, even as a target tow. It did, however, have one confirmed kill while escorted by several Skuas, a Ju-88 in Norway. Speaking of Skuas, that last picture is with an old Frog Skua for comparison.
  17. Yeah, it was so streamlined that it hardly impeded the airflow. 😲 In a strong head wind, at max speed I think it could hover
  18. A true expert needs to reply, but I'd say you're correct. That's not just an exhaust, it's a flame dampener. It is a sort of "stealth mechanism" that make the a/c harder to see at night. I'm guessing those fins keep the pipe from glowing and giving the a/c away in the dark.
  19. This is a combination of the new Airfix kit with the Eduard PE interior set (SS432), the Pavla Mk III ASW conversion kit (U72-134), the S.B.S. Swordfish rigging wire set (72050)and using the eduard Swordfish mask set (CX316). There are many reviews of the new Swordfish, so I won't go into that. The PE interior set consists mainly of assorted control panels, seatbelts. and machine gun detail parts. The all fit fine and "busy up" the interior nicely. The ASW conversion consist of the radar equipment, a new place for its operator, a radio, larger oil cooler, new side panel to cover where the forward mg was, the flame dampener for the exhaust, th "hump" for the radar scanner and the antennae for the wings. These parts are all nicely done in resin with the exception of the new cover for the radar compartment, which is vacu-formed (you get two in case you screw one up) and the antennae, which are PE. The mask set gives you masks for the windscreen, inside and out, and wheels. Finally, the rigging set gives you a full set of PE bracing wires all made to fit perfectly. You do not get, however, the flying wires for the elevator nor the antennae, which I thought was odd. It makes for a fiddly little model in this scale with all these parts and cutting things out and shaving things off and putting replacement things back on, but the result is as you see it. I wanted to do one with the rocket racks underneath, but the racks in both the old Airix and Matchbox kits are primitive and there are none in the new release. So, I made new ones from scratch. The rockets came from the spares box. The markings are spurious as there are no Mk III markings in the Airfix kits and the ones I had left over from the Matchbox kit had gone south long ago.
  20. Marcus, Your best bet for an authoritative answer is to contact the Chief Judge, Mark Persichetti, at NCC@ipmsusa.org, otherwise all you will get is personal opinions, not actual rulings.
  21. "National Level" is somewhat mis-leading in our case. These models did not have to win a preliminary event to get into the national contest. Any IPMS member can enter whatever he has built, beginner or expert. It is hoped that those beginners learn by seeing the accomplishments of the experts and are inspired to do better. That's also why we have the "What judges look for" seminar and have national judges in the contest room on Sat. AM to whom you can show your model and ask them to "judge" it so you know how to improve. It's also why we ask people not to be openly critical out loud as the modeler may be standing right there and he may be a novice who just did his best and here you are saying how bad it is.
  22. Robin, You do know you are on a plastic modeling site, don't you? While there may be some here that can help, I think you might be better served by another website.
  23. The on site registration form says $75. Divide that by how many days you'll be there and compare it to the $12 a day charge as long as you are not entering models.
  24. Office Manager, Marie Van Schoonhoven at http:// manager@ipmsusa.org . However, she's on the road to the National Convention. If you're going to that, you can see her there. If not, wait a week or so to give her a chance to get back and get caught up.
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