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Ron Bell

IPMS/USA Executive Board
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Everything posted by Ron Bell

  1. Dick, If it's 1/48, it's probably the one by Lindberg. On the internet, the kit goes for around $30-$50 bucks, or at least that's what they ask. Who knows what they actually get. Revell had one but it was on the launcher and was 1/72 or there-a-bouts.
  2. This is Matador's resin offering of this APC. Their castings are pretty nice but can get a bit rough and they will never be accused of being "shake and bake" kits as the fit is pretty iffy and there were no instructions in the past few I have done, so guessing what some parts are is fun. But, they offer many subjects that no one else does and when done carefully, they make nice display models. The only thing I did with this one was add wire steps/handles on the right side for roof access. Funny, there were locator holes for them, but no parts and with no instructions, no advice to make them out of wire. Also added the stretched sprue antennae.
  3. What Rusty said. Most have never been to a national contest and all they know about IPMS is second hand. I can think of no way to change such misperception except to have them attend a national, judge and see how we do it. Nothing else will change their minds. What sort of PR campaign could we have? Take out ads that say "we don't count rivets". There's just no way to convince them without first hand experience. I share your frustration, but I just don't see what we could do.
  4. Obviously a labor of love with a beautiful outcome.
  5. The PC 10 was Model Master Green Drab. The linen was also Model Master, but i can't remember it's name. 'Course, Model Master Enamels are now out of production, but you can still find some on the interweb.
  6. I'm still at it with these old Aurora WW I biplanes. Found this one at a local show and it's bit rarer than others so I snapped it up. It's the Monogram boxing, so the decal locators were removed from the molds, which made life a lot easier. The only thing I did was add a basic interior and drill out the exhaust pipes and Lewis guns. The kit has a four bladed prop, which was only used on Brisfits with a particular engine. In addition, it has a dual Lewis gun mount, which the gunners did not like as it was bulkier and heavier and more difficult to bring to bear on a target. Anyhoo, here 'tis.
  7. This is another in this range of OO/HO scale locomotives. The kits are very old and had a lot of flash, sink marks and mold seams. Fit is problematic as well. I removed the molded on handrails and piping on the engine and replaced it with brass and/or aluminum wire. From what I've heard, the markings aren't accurate, but I build these for fun, not accuracy.
  8. You should contact Marie, our office manager, who handles membership to make sure she has your address, etc. correct. Reach her at manager@ipmsusa.org
  9. Judges comments may not help the, say, top five or so modelers in a category, but as anyone who has judged for long can attest, in a category of for example 20 entries, there may be 4-5 that are considered for awards. The others probably have many and/or obvious faults. These are the people that could learn from such comments. Obviously, they didn't consider that gapped seam on the top important or just didn't notice. Now they know and in the future can pay attention to it. They've learned "what judges look for". Another side of this is I have heard some really stupid comments during judging, national and otherwise and I've been at it for over 30 years. Those wouldn't help anyone.
  10. Don't think so. I believe they were "inspired" by the what was known as the "Liberty Tank", like this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tank_Mark_VIII
  11. This is the first tank designed that took crew comfort into account. The engine bay was separated off from the crew compartment by a bulkhead that kept the heat and exhaust away from them. Designed at the very end of WWI it did not see service in that conflict, but remained a mainstay of the Royal Army for may years afterwards. Matador's resin kit has six or seven main parts and then the smaller detail ones. The tracks are length and link out of resin. The casting was excellent with no warping, bubbles or short shots, but fit was very problematic, many parts needing modification to go where they were suppose to go. When complete, however, it is a great addition to any early armor collection.
  12. Aurora had several generic bases it included in its WW I biplane kits. They included a separate little medallion with the subjects name to attach to the base. That's the little disc in the photos.
  13. I've gotten attached to these old kits. Very basic, but fun builds. This one had the raised decal locators that needed to be sanded off and I added a basic interior. The scheme is of an American 28 of the 213th Aero Squad. based in Florida in 1919-20.
  14. Had a bit of fun with this. Used left over bits of wood decking from another kit to give the ship a "real" wood deck. Replaced the catwalk with thinner stock and veneered it as well. Replaced the kits smoke stack and other piping. Replaced all masts, spars and davits with rod stock and brass wire. Added PE railing and rigging from stretched sprue and a new wooden plaque for a base. Fun little project.
  15. Caught a few glimpses of this film yesterday and one shot caught my eye, While they were over Tokyo, there were a couple of stock footage shots of a B-25 with white engine cowling fronts flying at low altitude. What caught my eye, at least I think it's what I saw, was that the B-25 had a nose turret similar to that which the PB4Y2 mounted. Was I seeing things?
  16. First off, don't rule out Revell. Like I said, it they had had the opportunity,, I'm sure they would have made good on the part. 99% of the time, their kits are fine. I'd say if you're interested in a particular subject, post a note here asking what kit people recommend. You'll et lot's of responses.
  17. The new Airfix kits are quite possibly the best value around, dollar for detail. Lot's of detail, inside and out with alternate version parts. One problem they all have is that the molds are cut from CAD drawings and have extremely fine tolerances. So much so that the finest mold seam line or sprue attachment point or tiniest of misalignments can keep fuselage halves from closing over detailed interiors. You have to check and re-check as you go along and even then, go real slowly when you are inserting major parts into the interior to make sure everything fits around them. This is a kit where lots went wrong, the most visible of which is the light tan on the top came out too greenish and the brown came out a too bright reddish brown. It's not terrible, but it wold never pass muster at a serious contest. But, take a look at it here to see what this new Airfix kit is all about. The nose section is a separate unit that is glued to the rear fuselage at the wing root. This was done to facilitate Airfix being able to use more common parts for its Mk I version with a different nose section. Due to those close tolerances, you can get some pretty hairy to fill seams right up next to the glass parts. Which brings me to the last failing, the order of assembly. They say to assemble the entire rear of the aircraft including the wing to fuselage joint, then add the completed front section. After wrestling with all these joints in two of these kits, I suggest you build it in the more traditional left-right halves. Then join the top of the wings to its joint to ensure you've got a tight fit, then add the bottom of the wing structure. I think you'll get fewer hard to fill seams and better alignment this way. Some Edward PE parts were added to my landing gear bays as well.
  18. Judging from the rounded end on the railing end and the continuation of the roping decoration, what you have here is a "short shot". That's where the plastic does not make it all the way into the ends of the mold. Not too surprising in molds of this age. It's not a design flaw, it's a manufacturing one. If you had mailed the part and explanation back to Revell, I bet they would have replaced the part.
  19. Some people swear by the Masons, others swear at them. Some love the Odd Fellows, others join the Moose Lodge. Everyone'e entitled to their opinion and will no doubt express it if asked. It will be rational and well thought out to them, no matter if it's based in reality or not. If you encounter someone who has had a personal bad experience with IPMS, invite them to your club meeting and make sure they are welcomed and engaged. Not just once, but several times. After that, if they still don't "fit in", it's up to them.
  20. Usually not until the rules/categories are set and the NCC should have them to Chat. by Jan.
  21. Saw the test shots at Scale Model world and it was impressive. I'm not an a/c guy, but a buddy of mine who is says it looked a little "tubby". I suppose that's some technical airplane term, but it looked cool to me.
  22. Just to get a feel for what you are looking for, what shortcomings did you find in the Revell kit? Oh, and which one did you have, they had a smaller scale one and a larger one. The smaller one has gone through several iterations, most to "simplify" it for younger modelers.
  23. One other thing. Depending on how glossy you want that final white coat and how "rough' the flat white undercoat is, you may want to wait a day or two to make sure the flat is set and then go back over the flat white with either very fine steel wool or even just rough burlap to level out the surface a bit. Go easy and don't remove paint from raised surfaces. Then a quick wipe with a tack cloth to remove any residue and apply the gloss coat or gloss white.
  24. Nick, I won't be at the meeting. I'll be in the UK at their "nationals". To get the scoop, ask either John Heck, the Editor (artdirector@ipmsusa.org) or Marie Van Schoonhoven, our office manager (manager@ipmsusa.org) Just guessing, but probably delayed at the printer for one reason or another.
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