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Ron Bell

IPMS/USA Executive Board
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Everything posted by Ron Bell

  1. You should contact Marie, our office manager, who handles membership to make sure she has your address, etc. correct. Reach her at manager@ipmsusa.org
  2. Judges comments may not help the, say, top five or so modelers in a category, but as anyone who has judged for long can attest, in a category of for example 20 entries, there may be 4-5 that are considered for awards. The others probably have many and/or obvious faults. These are the people that could learn from such comments. Obviously, they didn't consider that gapped seam on the top important or just didn't notice. Now they know and in the future can pay attention to it. They've learned "what judges look for". Another side of this is I have heard some really stupid comments during judging, national and otherwise and I've been at it for over 30 years. Those wouldn't help anyone.
  3. Don't think so. I believe they were "inspired" by the what was known as the "Liberty Tank", like this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tank_Mark_VIII
  4. This is the first tank designed that took crew comfort into account. The engine bay was separated off from the crew compartment by a bulkhead that kept the heat and exhaust away from them. Designed at the very end of WWII it did not see service in that conflict, but remained a mainstay of the Royal Army for may years afterwards. Matador's resin kit six or seven main parts and then the smaller detail ones. The tracks are length and link out of resin. The casting was excellent with no warping, bubbles or short shots, but fit was very problematic, many parts needing modification to go where they were suppose to go. When complete, however, it is a great addition to any early armor collection.
  5. Aurora had several generic bases it included in its WW I biplane kits. They included a separate little medallion with the subjects name to attach to the base. That's the little disc in the photos.
  6. I've gotten attached to these old kits. Very basic, but fun builds. This one had the raised decal locators that needed to be sanded off and I added a basic interior. The scheme is of an American 28 of the 213th Aero Squad. based in Florida in 1919-20.
  7. Had a bit of fun with this. Used left over bits of wood decking from another kit to give the ship a "real" wood deck. Replaced the catwalk with thinner stock and veneered it as well. Replaced the kits smoke stack and other piping. Replaced all masts, spars and davits with rod stock and brass wire. Added PE railing and rigging from stretched sprue and a new wooden plaque for a base. Fun little project.
  8. Caught a few glimpses of this film yesterday and one shot caught my eye, While they were over Tokyo, there were a couple of stock footage shots of a B-25 with white engine cowling fronts flying at low altitude. What caught my eye, at least I think it's what I saw, was that the B-25 had a nose turret similar to that which the PB4Y2 mounted. Was I seeing things?
  9. First off, don't rule out Revell. Like I said, it they had had the opportunity,, I'm sure they would have made good on the part. 99% of the time, their kits are fine. I'd say if you're interested in a particular subject, post a note here asking what kit people recommend. You'll et lot's of responses.
  10. The new Airfix kits are quite possibly the best value around, dollar for detail. Lot's of detail, inside and out with alternate version parts. One problem they all have is that the molds are cut from CAD drawings and have extremely fine tolerances. So much so that the finest mold seam line or sprue attachment point or tiniest of misalignments can keep fuselage halves from closing over detailed interiors. You have to check and re-check as you go along and even then, go real slowly when you are inserting major parts into the interior to make sure everything fits around them. This is a kit where lots went wrong, the most visible of which is the light tan on the top came out too greenish and the brown came out a too bright reddish brown. It's not terrible, but it wold never pass muster at a serious contest. But, take a look at it here to see what this new Airfix kit is all about. The nose section is a separate unit that is glued to the rear fuselage at the wing root. This was done to facilitate Airfix being able to use more common parts for its Mk I version with a different nose section. Due to those close tolerances, you can get some pretty hairy to fill seams right up next to the glass parts. Which brings me to the last failing, the order of assembly. They say to assemble the entire rear of the aircraft including the wing to fuselage joint, then add the completed front section. After wrestling with all these joints in two of these kits, I suggest you build it in the more traditional left-right halves. Then join the top of the wings to its joint to ensure you've got a tight fit, then add the bottom of the wing structure. I think you'll get fewer hard to fill seams and better alignment this way. Some Edward PE parts were added to my landing gear bays as well.
  11. Judging from the rounded end on the railing end and the continuation of the roping decoration, what you have here is a "short shot". That's where the plastic does not make it all the way into the ends of the mold. Not too surprising in molds of this age. It's not a design flaw, it's a manufacturing one. If you had mailed the part and explanation back to Revell, I bet they would have replaced the part.
  12. Some people swear by the Masons, others swear at them. Some love the Odd Fellows, others join the Moose Lodge. Everyone'e entitled to their opinion and will no doubt express it if asked. It will be rational and well thought out to them, no matter if it's based in reality or not. If you encounter someone who has had a personal bad experience with IPMS, invite them to your club meeting and make sure they are welcomed and engaged. Not just once, but several times. After that, if they still don't "fit in", it's up to them.
  13. Usually not until the rules/categories are set and the NCC should have them to Chat. by Jan.
  14. Saw the test shots at Scale Model world and it was impressive. I'm not an a/c guy, but a buddy of mine who is says it looked a little "tubby". I suppose that's some technical airplane term, but it looked cool to me.
  15. Just to get a feel for what you are looking for, what shortcomings did you find in the Revell kit? Oh, and which one did you have, they had a smaller scale one and a larger one. The smaller one has gone through several iterations, most to "simplify" it for younger modelers.
  16. One other thing. Depending on how glossy you want that final white coat and how "rough' the flat white undercoat is, you may want to wait a day or two to make sure the flat is set and then go back over the flat white with either very fine steel wool or even just rough burlap to level out the surface a bit. Go easy and don't remove paint from raised surfaces. Then a quick wipe with a tack cloth to remove any residue and apply the gloss coat or gloss white.
  17. Nick, I won't be at the meeting. I'll be in the UK at their "nationals". To get the scoop, ask either John Heck, the Editor (artdirector@ipmsusa.org) or Marie Van Schoonhoven, our office manager (manager@ipmsusa.org) Just guessing, but probably delayed at the printer for one reason or another.
  18. Ditto what Nick said. The key is that flat white undercoat. The flat white covers better so the gloss coat can be more even. All gloss paints take longer to dry. Actually, not dry, set. Several days at least to make sure you leave behind no trace of handling. Just incorporate it into your building schedule.
  19. 9:55 PM. Just went to the IPMS/USA web site and clicked on the Nats link and it worked fine. Problem might have been some temporary glitch or maybe at your end? Either way, worked fine for me.
  20. Ron Bell

    1/72 Sherman II A

    Those "young" eyes are 70 years old, but have a really nice optivisor!
  21. Ron Bell

    1/72 Sherman II A

    Another in the long line of 1/72 Dragon Shermans with many common parts shared by many kits. Included is a small PE fret but some of the kit parts are molded so finely, that the PE parts are hardly worth the bother, As a matter of fact, some of the kit parts look better, being more three-dimensional. I did mine as a 10th Royal Hussars mount in Italy in '44. I added the welded-on pipe lengths that apparently held local foliage for camouflage and handles on all the hatches and engine deck. The foliage are twigs from plants outside with some model RR foliage added. For those not familiar with "Sherman Speak", a Sherman IIA in American terms is a Sherman A1 (the cast hull version) with the VVS suspension and the T-23 turret with the 76mm gun.
  22. IPMS has groups within the organization that share information about specific topics, such as Helicopters, or small ships, or other topics. They are called SIGs, Special Interest Groups. While IPMS/USA does not have a group devoted to air racing, IPMS/UK does. While not limited to US air racing, they might be able to put you in contact with some resources you can use. Visit them at https://ipmsuk.org/directory/racing-record-aircraft/ Of course you are always welcome here as well. By the way, very nice models.
  23. If I had to guess, I'd guess that this kit originated from the JB Model company. It's molded like their's are, it used clear parts for the entire cab as their's did and it has the same level of detail. I've heard JB had planned a Stalwart but never got around to it. If so, then it's a good guess this is it. The kit is released by S&M Models. Aptly named as assembling it was an exercise in Sado-Masochism. There are no locating pips, holes, ribs, grooves or anything. They give you measurements as to how far back from the front of the vehicle the suspension should be and you have to transfer that to your kit parts. The cab's slab sides are joined by beveled edges, not butt joints. This would seem to make getting seamless corners easier, but since the parts are clear, you have to be extremely careful of alignment as you can't see the parts very well, they being clear. And for some reason, they did not mold the holes in the backs of the tires so you can put them on the axles. You have to drill them out. There is a tiny PE fret with the cage for over the exhaust, head light guards, wheel hubs and a windshield wiper. S&M has the kit in several variants, but all are basically the same. The only difference being the presence of the on board crane or not. With the exception of the cargo, which came from the spares bin, mine is out of the box and has it's flaws, but doesn't look too bad if you don't look too closely.
  24. I will make my annual pilgrimage to the show with three others, one of whom is a newbie who has never been before. Wa've tried to prepare him, but I know he'll still be gobsmacked.
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