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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/04/2021 in all areas

  1. Well the postman brought this a few hours ago. Thank you to the gentleman from another site who found this at a local shop for a great price and offered to pick it up and send it to me! I love the “painting guide for lozenge pattern camouflage” labeling... on such a large subject that’s gonna drive me crazy! But then again, I used to parachute out of perfectly good airplanes in the middle of the night, so I have screw loose upstairs somewhere...
    4 points
  2. If you want an extremely detailed Sherman, this kit is a must have. The price that I paid (my wife) was well worth it. There are ALOT of parts in this kit. Because I'm going to use this one with the other two that I built in a diorama, I decided to cut open the Turret and Hull so that you can see inside. So that you can see everything , I used a multi-colored mini LED set. I've never added lighting to a model before. With the help of my son, I got a crash course in soldering. The LED's that I am using have two different colors in one "bulb". White for non-tactical, Red for tactical. The contro
    2 points
  3. This is the Eduard 1:72 Albatros D.Va, finished at Lt. Walter Wolf's Jasta 5 plane from June-August 1917. The kit is OK but it's 20 years old and is missing some details (tachometer and gun mounts in the cockpit, radiator inflow and outflow pipes, etc.). I dressed up the details a bit and then used Print Scale's decals sheets (separate ones for the individual markings and for the Bavarian pattern). If you've ever hung wallpaper, you have a leg up with that Bavarian pattern - not fun applying it across a compound curve, and the entire Albatros D.V fuselage is a compound curve! It's rigged with
    2 points
  4. 2 points
  5. I picked up this nice pair of tankers from Verlinden. What I really like about them is that they are not wearing leggings so they can work fine to be paired with Korean War or early Cold War tanks. Not sure what I’ll do with them yet.
    2 points
  6. And the painting begins. Today I airbrushed on a coat of gray Tamiya primer overall followed by Tamiya white primer on the areas that will be white. I’ll let it dry overnite, then start actual painting tomorrow.
    2 points
  7. And, if all else fails and you either don't have a local shop or the local shop doesn't carry an alternative, True North Precision Paints are, I'm told, nearly identical to Model Master. You just have to order them online... As I said when the initial "Woe is me, Testors is going away" posts started popping up on the various forii, Testors didn't have anything in their line that doesn't have an available alternative or alternatives that in some cases are better and/or more economical, it just means that you'll probably have to buy it online. Seeing as "the local hobby shop" might not ex
    1 point
  8. One of the local shops here in Phoenix said that he was going to be carrying Revell enamels once they were available, to fill to void left by Model Master. And yes, with a few simple techniques, you will find much longer shelf lives with your tinned paints than with bottles. I have Revell tins over 20 years old and Humbrol tins almost 35 years old that are as good as when I bought them.
    1 point
  9. Good to know Michael. I am also a bit annoyed by the tins, but if they keep the paint that long, I guess I have to adapt and overcome. I just hope the Revell paints are at least as good if not better, than the Model Master which is my go-to paint.
    1 point
  10. Good activity! Hope you have some great fun. And yes, share the results. Do you think we will one day have real ships with sci-fi designs?
    1 point
  11. Join the fun in the group build! https://m.facebook.com/groups/768177827442467/?tsid=0.5155597116066883&source=result
    1 point
  12. Very nice! I am not sure, but I think I might have a T.I.E. fighter too. I look forward to seeing pics of the finished model here.
    1 point
  13. As they say, “Now for something completely different”. Typically, I build 1/48 scale aircraft. This will be a multi-kit build log of 1/72 scale aircraft. A client needs some aircraft to hang up for display. He sent me five aircraft to build for him. As noted before, these are all 1/72 scale. They will all be built mostly out of the box with the wheels up. One will have a different scheme, one will be a conversion, all will have pilots, and all five will be in this one build log. The aircraft being built and the order in which they will be built are: 1/72 Airfix Spitfire MK 1a – with
    1 point
  14. Clearly, they all do not look the same. To accomplish the appearance in this photo, I would mask on each side of each rib, and paint in between, by hand, with Mr. Surfacer 500 or 1000. When dry, peel away the masking tape. Then you can gently, lightly sand to remove any raised edge caused by the meniscus effect of the paint next to the masking tape. You can also lightly sand to make it less prominent if desired. If you make a mistake, you can easily remove the entire new “rib” and redo it. I use this technique to restore raised panel lines. It is actually easy and very effective. Good luck. N
    1 point
  15. As the Brits say, I got the models "deckled" today........ Tamiya kit decals were used on the green one, while the gray one got markings from Aeromaster. I used hot water to help the Tamiya decals soften up and go down easier and they worked well. The Aeormaster decals needed more care in handling since they were thinner, but also went down well. I was actually quite impressed with how they snuggled down around the nose with a copius application of Champ decal solvent. The models have had all but the seats, props, and rear canopies added and have been flat coated so I can take
    1 point
  16. Viktor, I consulted one of my references on the Tiger Moth. This is Ray Rimell’s Aeroguide Classics Number 6 on the Tiger Moth. There are excellent closeups of the wing and horizontal stabilizer upper surfaces. On the tail especially, the rib effect is quite subtle and, respectfully, as molded by Airfix, it is much closer to reality than what your rib tape efforts are achieving. In 1/72 and smaller scales, these techniques are inevitably over scale. I have used these tape techniques in scratch-building in these small scales, because there aren’t a lot of alternatives. It’s better than nothi
    1 point
  17. Check out an architectural supply. What you're looking for is something on the order of Chart-Pak or similar graphic arts tape. Graphic arts tape in varying widths is designed to follow curves, some of them fairly tight. Staples carries black Chart Pak as narrow as 1/16", but I used to see it in artist's supply shops as narrow as 1/64" which is almost too narrow to see. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  18. I think you're on the right track using a strip of "something" to replicate the sewn fabric seams......The picture may a bit misleading since it's a close-up shot and makes the tape you're using look even more out of scale; but I think since YOU sense it's "too much", it is too much! What you're doing works really well in 1/48 and larger, but is probably a bit heavy handed for 1/72. Michael's idea of using decal strips could work... provided you have a set of stripes that you know are on the thick side. However, the problem with using decals is that they're actually designed to blend in a
    1 point
  19. Steve: Also, I hadn't heard the thing about picks on the dash... you have to fill me in on that one... maybe I should be putting a pick on my dashboard? Y'all keep your picks on the dashboard so y'all can park in the handicap spaces! And just to even things out....You know the difference between a drummer and a pizza delivery guy? The pizza delivery guy can support his family! Glad you're here! Party on! Gil
    1 point
  20. Just wanted to show you my progress on the model. I’m going to display the engine on the dolly next to the finished plane. As usual would love to hear comments and suggestions. thanks, Stuart
    1 point
  21. Okay, I'll start by offering a warning that the following pics are gonna be large, so please have patience. I left them large to hopefully allow for more detail to be seen. Ever since I'd broken the 800-model milestone; I've been wanting to bring my entire collection of Braille Scale Armor down to our Hobby Day Hall and set it up for pictures and display. That would also allow me to add all the armor models I'd finished since the last time I'd set this up in Chattanooga. So, this past weekend, I had that opportunity and was able to keep the collection on display for three d
    1 point
  22. During this week I’ve worked on the collar padding for the cockpit. First I added some strip styrene to the inner face then sanded it all to a more rounded profile. Once it had been sanded, I painted it in Humbrol Satin Black. I need to go back and touch up where the sanding damaged the paint on adjacent areas then lastly I attached the lower wing
    1 point
  23. Yet another oldie but goodie from Fantastic Plastic' retired line. This is the 1:288 scale Naboo Royal Yacht. It was seen in Ep. 2, when Padme and Anakin went to Tatooine to find Anakin's mother. They then used it to get to Geonosis for the failed attempt to rescue Obi Wan. I picked this one out as I wanted to give the Rust-oleum Chrome paint another go... Only a few parts on this one so it was a super quick build. Once again from sitting in the box for a decade one of the side fins and the ship's top fin had a little warp in it. But what was weird was that as soon as I put each part in
    1 point
  24. I started working on this as "stuff" dried/set on another model, then got caught up in it as it was turning out pretty nice. Typical Frog kit with few parts and no interior detail, so I painted up the crash test dummy like pilot they provide just to fill in the space. For it's age, it's a nice little kit and was actually fun to build with few hassles or problems.
    1 point
  25. 1/72 Airfix Spitfire MK 1a – After completing the cockpit I assembled the fuselage. The exhaust from the kit was modified by drilling out the pipes. Since these all are going to be built wheels up, I installed the landing gear up. The underside was then base coated with sky gray. The topside was base coated with RAF dark green and dark earth for the requested scheme. The client included a specific set of decals for the scheme as well. With decals applied and some mild weathering the aircraft was top coated. I polished the canopy and painted the frame then installed it. Right behind the canopy
    1 point
  26. I wanted to post progress photos of my build of the Tamiya 1/32 Mosquito. It would be great to read comments on how I can improve. Several photos were posted in the “techniques“ forum where i received very productive comments and i have put an aircraft weathering how-to book and some weathering products on my wishlist for Xmas. There is a specific issue that i wanted to discuss (although there is nothing i can do about it now). The wheel/tire assembly consisted of many pieces in order to mimic the flat spot at ground contact. I took great care in putting all of it together. However,
    1 point
  27. Diving back into my stash, I came out with another Fantastic Plastic oldie but goodie. Due to a C&D, all of FP's Star Wars kits are currently retired. The kit is their their Vector Wing fighter in 1:72 scale. It came in 26 parts of white resin, and one clear resin canopy. for the paintjob it was easier to paint sub-assemblies. Tried to shoot the pilot, but ended up illustrating my light weathering. 😉 Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  28. I agree wholeheartedly. There have been so many developments in the hobby and the kit industry since OOB was first established that it is now meaningless.
    1 point
  29. Over the years, I have seen a number of builders who did well at local contests, where they were the wunderkind, go to regionals and nationals only to get their...hat...handed to them. Insulted, and embarrassed they never come back. That is good because we don't want or need them. They spoil it for the rest of us. While an early win is a sure way to get them hooked---Las Vegas learned that long ago---it also creates unreasonable expectations. As Wall Street says---past performance is no guaranty of future performance. If you want to win, you have to play. I have entered many contests and
    1 point
  30. One thing I have found is that it is easier to subtract than to add. What I mean is when you test fit the pieces and you see that parts are going to have gaps. "Prefill" them. My technique is to use a solvent based putty such as basic Tamiya White and put it along the edge to be joined. Then assemble the piece so the excess putty squeeze's out. Join the unfilled section of the seam with your usual extra thin cement and hold it together as you normally would. Let is dry completely. Do not try to clean it off while it is wet. It will just smear. Once it is dry most of what squeezed out
    1 point
  31. I was in Michaels looking for Flow Aid and I came across this kit in the limited model section. I have done some of the sub assembly and freed the side windows from the frame. I will post more pics as I accomplish more.
    1 point
  32. This is the MiniArt 1/35th kit. If you are looking for a lot of nice detail, I recommend this kit. The bonnet louvres re molded open and the suspension springs are hollow. Dak
    1 point
  33. Here is the finished product sitting on a mirror base as suggested here. Difficulties still include the application of decals and the hand painting of very large surfaces. The thickness of my coatings are noticeably different. Question - how many of you apply the “hundreds” of tiny decals?
    1 point
  34. These are wargamming kits, but are very nicely detailed, especially given their size, and just fall together. They are darn fun to build. The only things I added to these were the fuel lines to the outside tanks and the antennae and pennants. The quarter is there for size perspective.
    1 point
  35. The M561 Gama Goat was seven years in development until production of the vehicle began in 1968. Its unique name was derived from the creator of its articulated joint, Roger Gamaunt, and its mountain goat-like climbing ability. It was unlike most other military off-road vehicles in that power could go to all 6 wheels of the vehicle, and its aforementioned articulated joint allowed 80˚ pitch and 60˚ roll ranges of the carrier module at the rear. Its excellent rough-terrain mobility was tempered somewhat by problems with tricky handling and maintenance, as well as it being rather noi
    1 point
  36. My price point is about $65. Somehow, I just can't get above that. To be candid, however, what I can get for $60 today is a world of quality better than what I could get for $40 10-15 years ago. I consider most "classic" kits, at $10-$20, to be too expensive. Since their quality is very inferior. I'll pay twice as much to have a kit that is enjoyable to build and which looks good.
    1 point
  37. Yeah, I could get Testors at the closest store, and Pactra at the big department store where my folks used to shop. It wasn’t until that I was in Jr High that I learned about fancier paints like Humbrol, Pactra International, and Polly S. Yes, I will be rigging this build up. Keep your fingers crossed, that’s pretty new to me... and I do believe that the later Aurora boxing’s of the kit had a rigging diagram on the instruction sheet.
    1 point
  38. I started this kit over three years ago and ran into a lot of problematic areas with this kit. To say that this kit has now moved into #1 on my most difficult/ frustrating and sometimes angering build would simply be an understatement. It was so bad that I stepped away from aircraft building altogether for those 3 years. Some of it I brought on myself by making things more difficult than they needed to be and other areas were just plain ridiculous the way Hasegawa put this thing together. This kit is touted to be one of the best scale model representations of this iconic plane and on that poin
    1 point
  39. Today, it was back to work on the Camel. First priority, clean up the seam gap on top of the fuselage Add some strip styrene shims sand smooth and paint... I also test fitted the cowling and guns... more in a couple of days
    1 point
  40. Beautiful work! I remember the days when Brookhurst Hobbies kept a good stock of vacuform kits in the shop.
    1 point
  41. Finally, after many years, this is finished. I can say that there were not wo pieces in the entire build that fit together easily. And Trumpeter found ways to take one part and make four out of it. I will say it is a huge plane and I do love Navy schemes. Finished with Squadrons decals Dave
    1 point
  42. YI have a few so far this year. First off a trade to acquire 2 car kits that were lost in one of our moves when I was a teen. The Revell rerelease of the Monogram Mongoose and Snake Funny Cars. Next was a preorder that finally came in at CultTVman, the Dragon 72nd scale Saturn V. As a bonus he threw in a 1/2500th USS Enterprise which will probably be my first build as it should take about 5 minutes. And today I stopped in at MRS Hobbies and picked up a couple more 72nd scale kits. The Bandai Perfect Grade Millennium Falcon and a Dragon Sd.Kfz 232. Think that might be enough
    1 point
  43. Registering also gets you the swag bag which day-trippers don't get. Pin, decal, brochures, etc. You may be able to buy the decal sheet from a resale vendor after the show for an additional 10 to 20 bucks.
    1 point
  44. When I start a new model, I set up a file on the computer and begin a page in Word. Each time I work on the model, I take pictures with my mobile phone and then place them in this file. Every time I work on the model, I add some to the article about what I have done. ( This is far easier than trying to remember what I did several weeks in the past.) By the time I'm done, I have a full range of construction photos as well as an article that only needs some editing. I then recaption the phots to state what I am trying to illustrate. When I get it all tied up, I then send it to John via a servic
    1 point
  45. This is actually a war game miniature and you get three in one box. They say it's 1/72 but next to other 1/72 Sherman tank kits (I know the RAM was it's basis), it's huge! The suspension and tracks are one-piece assemblies, but with the exception of the guide horns not being correct, they are very nice. The gun mount is very simplified as well so I reworked the gun mount adding a gun sight and the control wheels and a gunner's seat. I also added an instrument panel for the driver. And by the way, you get a complete crew and the figures are pretty well done, if a bit plump, but I didn't use the
    1 point
  46. Work in progress. Eduard Bf-109 E4 "yellow 10" crash landed on Sept 28, 1940 near East Langdon, Kent. More figures will be added. Eduard 1/32nd kit with civilians from various sources. Figures are a little glossy because they have not been dull coated yet. Dak
    1 point
  47. I had some damage to my Monogram P-40 in my Pearl Harbor collection so I decided to Replace with Airfix P-40 in 1/48. This is one very nice Kit. Built mostly out of box except Gun Sight,Uschi Antenna and Eduard Seatbelt. Really enjoyed this kit and fit was mostly great with a few areas only needing a little sanding and dry fitting. Painted with Vallejo Air colors OD and Neutral Grey. Over-coated with Future for Gloss and decanted Dullcoat for final finish. Used some Tamiya weathering powders to "dirty her up". Kit decals were great and no problems. I used gloss
    1 point
  48. Finally finished!. I have a few things left to do.(Make deeper tank tracks, and put more sag in the phone/power lines). This was my first time working with snow. If I could give anyone advice on attaching this stuff to your base, one word comes to mind. HAIRSPRAY!. With the advice from Ron Bell, I decided to give it a try. The Woodland Scenics cement works just fine. No issues using it. "I" prefer to use the hairspray, because I was able to get a thicker affect. (a total of 5,light applications of snow is what you see here)I also found out (By accident) that if you hold the can close to the lo
    1 point
  49. Hi All, Here is my Apollo 11 build. This was built from the vintage Monogram kit. The kit was terrible and I could only really use it for general shapes, most of this was recreated using metal and sheet styrene. I did lots of research and worked mainly from photos. I hope you enjoy! Rick
    1 point
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