Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/27/2021 in all areas

  1. 11 completions this past year, about average for me. I'll run them in chronological order. Fuel tanker and Cushman trike from the Airfix 1/72 USAAF Bomber Support Set, done as post-war civvie vehicles: Airfix 1/48 Gloster Meteor F.8: Classic Airframes 1/48 Grumman Widgeon: Airfix 1/48 Spitfire XVIII (converted from the XIV kit): Airfix 1/48 Spitfire Vb: Airfix 1/72 MBB Bo105: Airfix 1/72 Lynx HAS.2: Airfix 1/72 Lynx AH.1: Revell 1/72 F-4EJ, the very basic 1965 kit! SBS Resin 1/72 Farman F.190: Tamiya 1/48 Mosquito NF.XIX, converted from the NF.XIII kit: A pleasing year, I was pretty happy with most of these completions. We'll see what 2022 brings, but I have a number of interesting builds planned. Let's see what transpires!
    5 points
  2. Here's my 2021 output: Airfix Hurricane Ready for Battle set. The figures are also done but not pictured. A great set. The F-15's are all the 1/32 Tamiya kits, and the Su-27's are the 1/32 Trumpeter kits. These 5 were built to be props for a movie. The A-18 is the 1/72 LF kit, the Me-109V-1 is the 1/72 MPM kit, and to end with a total regression, the Aurora Se-5. I really should spend a little more time on that one, cleaning up the flying wire attachments.
    2 points
  3. Bob, how long are you waiting to remove the masks? It's best to do it soon after the paint dries on the surface but is still a bit flexible. Peel the masking back parallel to the masked surface, and not at anything like perpendicular to it.
    2 points
  4. This is the 54mm of Igor from Young Frankenstein. The kit is white metal from Romeo Models. A fun quick project painted with enamels. Dak
    2 points
  5. I'm calling it close for this year's Christmas model. It's Bob Crachit from Christmas Carol sculpted by John Dennett's MoonDevil Studio. A typically nice kit in 1/5 scale. It's 2 parts of purplish resin - the bust and the base. As with the Scrooge bust from a few years ago, it's based on the 1951 film. Since the film was done in B&W, I had to look fro movies posters to see how the characters were imagined. I found two images of Bob - one with a blue tie/scarf, and one with red. Thinking there's nothing Christmas-sy about blue, I went with the red one. Plus the red tie sort of ties in with Scrooge's red scarf. As usual I started off with the face. All images show him fair skinned with dark hair so here we go. Besides the red tie, I'm planning for a white shirt, green vest and a brown jacket, with hopefully some texture on it to make it look tweed. We'll see about that. But that's for next time. I started out this session by painting the hair. On TV it shows up very dark. I hit it with the darkest brown I had, Then highlighted it when dry. Ugh. Too light. Then 3 coast of Citadel's Nuln Oil got it back to a decently dark color. For the clothes, I had the colors I wanted picked out - White shirt, red tie, green vest with brass button, and black piping, and then a brown jacket. It went along well. for the vest I added a little design in a light green and ten went a little lighter for the 2n'd highlight. The jacket I decided to make a tweed jacket. A dark brown was the base coat. A lighter brown stippled with one of my ruined brushes started the tweed look. Finally, I used V's English Uniform, which is a lighter brown but with a lot of green in it was stippled on and this gave me the tweed color I was used to seeing. Only problem was that it dried a satin. I found a bottle of Anti Shine that The Army Painter put out and it dulled the jacket down quite a bit. I'm still trying to get my clear coats straight. When I spray gloss, I want gloss. When I was matte - I want completely flat - not almost satin, not even egg shell. I want flat. Any discoveries will be reported. A simple gray stone base was painted with a white cut out and Bob's name in red. To finish it off, A let it snow on the base. Thanks for looking.
    2 points
  6. I purchased both of these kits from a vendor at our clubs annual invitational. Both kits are from Meng. This was my first time building Meng kits, and I must tell you, they were a joy to build. I was very impressed with the level of detail, and how well everything fit together. The base was covered with Stucco repair from Lowe’s. While it was still wet, I pressed the tracks, and mine roller wheels into the mixture. I painted the base with several shades of brown, and sand. Once dry, I applied a wash of Tamiya brown, and black. After it dried, I dry brushed Naples yellow hue for highlights. While trying to simulate the nonslip surface on the top of the turret and hull, I ran into some issues. After talking with some of the armor experts in our club, they pointed me in the right direction. Chris
    2 points
  7. Yes, they are throwback 19th Century industrialists who care for nothing but lining their own pockets, and 'little guys' be damned. Very unsavory characters. I use torn-up old t-shirts, pillowcases and sheets.
    1 point
  8. The two attached hotels continue to be full. The Hampton Inn across the street is not offering a rate. The Comfort Suites room block is also full. That does not mean that Omaha is out of hotels. Here's a short list of hotels within about five of the convention with the the rate for the convention timeframe from Expedia. Hotels with distance from Conference & price during convention from Expedia Hampton Inn & Suites 0.2 $195 Best Western Plus Midwest Inn 2.5 $178 Quality Inn & Suites 1.9 $91 Double Tree by Hilton Omaha Southwest 5.3 $112 Fairfield Inn and Suites Omaha Papillion 4.6 $134 My Place Hotel-South Omaha/La Vista, NE 0.2 $122 Holiday Inn & Suites Omaha I-80 3.9 $148 Staybridge Suites Omaha West 5.3 $147 Hampton Inn Omaha/West Dodge Road (Old Mill) 5.7 $127 Holiday Inn Express & Suites Omaha South 4.6 $132 Holiday Inn Express & Suites Omaha-Millard 2.5 $161
    1 point
  9. On 1 April 1942 sixteen modified B-25B bombers were loaded aboard the USS Hornet CV-8. The next day the USS Hornet along with the ships of Task Force 18 sailed towards the Hawaiian Islands. They met up with the USS Enterprise and Task Force 16 then headed across the Pacific Ocean. On the morning of 18 April 1942 approximately 650 nautical miles from the Island of Japan, sixteen B-25B’s Led by Lieutenant Colonel James Doolittle launched off the Hornet’s deck to perform the first air operation to strike the Japanese mainland in retaliation for the attack on Pearl Harbor. For this next build I am building Trumpeter’s 1/350 USS Hornet as she was during the Doolittle Raid. This is going to be a super-detailed project. It is being built to be displayed at a museum that is creating a display of the raid for the 80th anniversary. This project is estimated to take around 4 – 5 months to complete. There are many aftermarket accessories that will be utilized in this build. So far I have four different sets of photo etch parts just for the ship, a wooden deck, all the B-25B’s as well as all the aircraft that were stored in the hangar bay that were later moved to the flight deck after the bombers departed in case the Task Force was spotted and needed to defend itself. All of the aircraft have multiple photo etch sets for the cockpits and exterior details. I will also be illuminating it as well. I have many accessories still on order like 3-D printed Moto-Tugs and crew members. At the end of the project I will list all of the accessories I used. I also purchased two reference books. One on the USS Hornet itself and the other covers the Doolittle raid. I also located a shipbuilding drawing of the Yorktown class carriers that covers all the decks from keel to the top of the island. I scaled the hangar deck sheet to 1/350 scale and printed it out so that I can accurately place the interior walls and other details. Starting with the hangar I began using the White Ensign Hangar bay photo etch set (#3541). The instructions give you sizes and plans to scratch build the hangar bay walls. I installed the hangar deck then painted it deck grey and gave it a basic weathering. I will be doing more weathering/staining once I figure out the layout of the aircraft. Using Evergreen Models 1.0mm styrene sheets I cut out the parts for the interior walls per the hangar bay detail set instructions. I have a few sheets of extra doors and rails from previous ship sets so after building the walls I added photo etch doors, stairs and rails to match the reference photos. The kit walls have numerous ejector pin marks. Instead of filling and sanding all of them I opted to use sheets of 0.5mm sheets to cover them. Also, since I will be illuminating the hangar bay I cut open many of the hangar bay side doors. With the starboard side interior walls assembled per the photo etch set instructions I added all the fine details as they are shown in the photos from the reference book. After adding details to the forward elevator bay I did some detail work on the bow. One of the obvious things missing from the model details is the bow mooring guides. I used some styrene tubing to make these. I then reshaped the anchor chain holes. On the kit these were just straight thru holes. I used a file to make them angled and flared. I removed the molded chain and will be replacing it with a real anchor chain. There are two supports for the front of the flight deck. I filled the mounting holes for the kit plastic ones and installed the correctly sized photo etch parts from the White Ensign Detail set (#3525). Working on getting the starboard side interior detailed and installed this coming week. See more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  10. Most art supply stores carry color mixing wheels, and they can be found on-line. They will not give you such specific mixing data as you are looking for, but they will give you a further understanding of color theory.
    1 point
  11. This is the 1/10th Alexandros Models bust of the Vermeer painting. Painted with oils. Dak
    1 point
  12. Hey MM. A basic Air Force turbine airstart cart is the A/M32A-60, which was used in Viet Nam and a variation is still in use today. In the navy we call called them "huffers". For flight deck use, huffers were usually found attached to the back end of a standard MD-3 shipboard tow tractor. We also had huffers similar to the Air Force units that were towed and not attached to a tractor. I can't address F-105s, but, in the Navy, we used a variation of a bottle jack to change tires on F-14s and F-4s. I've attached a picture I pulled from the web of an A/M32A-60 start cart and an F-4 in Viet Nam. Hope this gives you something to work with.
    1 point
  13. Thank you Gil! Yeah, it was a tough seam to fix, but in a way, I found it easy given the flat surface. The Aluminum is Vallejo's acrylic dark aluminum sprayed through my cordless airbrush.
    1 point
  14. This is my very first model built a few years ago ... All the mods were made from scratch because I didn't know of any aftermarket items available. The Lunar Rover was completely built from scratch using a variety of materials. I had built the ALSEP door to open and close. The empty LRV bay ... The LRV was built from scratch too ... with homemade decals The parts ... One more view ... I've got a real affection for the Lunar Module and I've built them all, with Apollo 10's as a current build Thanx for popping in for a peek! Pete
    1 point
  15. That's very interesting Mark about the activity level ... Let's see if this image gets published! These are my LM models in various scales ... Left to Right ... Apollos 9 (1/96), 11, 12, 13 (landing 1/144), 14 (1/70 in the stack), 15, 16 and 17.
    1 point
  16. Oops! I forgot one that I'd finished last year. It is a real crappy job but at least this dog of a kit got done! This is the IBG Diamond T Wrecker, poorly finished back in November... but finished: Maybe someday I'll get another one and try again to do it right.
    1 point
  17. This model is from the Revell 1/24 Gemini. I got it off of eBay and it was quite damaged so I rebuilt it, added a lotta scratch built details including the wing itself. I weathered the crew module and the Nose details and landing gear were all built from scratch using styrene and Aluminum tubes and styrene bits and springs from ball-point pens. The Heat Shield was painted ... This was a really satisfying build ... ;- D Pete
    1 point
  18. Hello! Sean here from Denver, Colorado! I'm a long time member of the IPMS CoMMiES (Colorado Modeling Militia Enjoying Sci-fi), joining the forums to hopefully meet more IPMS members, share some projects, and see what else is out there! I've been building models since I was about 14, also collecting Transformers and other robots since then as well! I had tried model building when I was younger, but never seemed to get anything together quite right. I wish there'd have been clubs and other stuff back then like there is now. IPMS CoMMiES are a big reason why I stayed so interested in the hobby! They also seem to work tirelessly to get more of the younger crowd interested in the hobby! Looking forward to meeting more IPMS members and hope to see more of you down the road! ~Sean Kneeland IPMS CoMMiES Colorado
    1 point
  19. Hi, all. Finally getting back into the hobby and focusing on more "traditional" stuff. Last few years have been tied up doing a lot of Warhammer projects. While that's been enjoyable it's been nice to get back to working on armor, planes, etc. First completed project for the new year. Fantastic kit and very fun build.
    1 point
  20. Excellent! I'll PM you with my address. Give me the postage cost and I'll send it on.
    1 point
  21. Thanks John! This one builds up pretty quickly. Two days progress for this report: On Friday, I started assembling the turret, but ran into a speed bump fairly quickly. The lower portion of the mantlet dust cover was not as wide as the upper potion. After gluing those two parts together, I had to add putty then allow it time to dry overnite before sanding and adding fold contours with needle files. And since I didn’t want to add all of the easily broken off external turret fittings before adding the mantlet, I stopped at this point. Saturday was smooth sailing on picking up where I left off. With the help of online reference photos for more accurate placement, I added all of the remaining turret parts, aside from the antenna bases and the TC’s .50 cal. MG. Then I set everything up for a couple of progress photos I just have a last few small bits to add, then I can start painting.
    1 point
  22. Impressive year, and all I can do is echo the well deserved kudos! Gil
    1 point
  23. Nice collection, Paul. I like the Farman a lot, but all look great, especially the Esso tanker and Autocar.
    1 point
  24. David, you mentioned about local hobby shops being passive in the face of ecommerce. They face the same problems as any other retail business. Rents and business rates and taxes ever increasing, Cost of any salaries that have to come out of the business. Buying in stock and waiting for it to sell at a reasonable profit to sustain the business with potential customers often just window shopping, getting straight onto their smart phones to compare on line prices, and ordering from some big warehouse operation instead. Not all small outfits can afford to set up ecommerce themselves as the on costs of having to pay for IT expertise to design and set up a website and maintain it, as well as their own input to keep it always up to date. Are they really passive, or just being steam rolled into giving up against relentless pressure by on line giants and modellers going for the cheaper deals they can get on line? I for one miss a number of local hobby shops disappearing, being able to browse and occasionally meet up with like minded folk in the shop, and owners who were model makers in their own right with their expertise.
    1 point
  25. Excellent work - all top notch models!
    1 point
  26. Just renewed my membership. Quite easy.
    1 point
  27. Really nice work; especially the old Sopwith - perhaps in danger from "Man's Best Friend"😉 and the Testors/Italeri 1/35 M47 's paint job that reminds me I haven't visited the First Division Museum since before the COVID lock downs.
    1 point
  28. Beautiful work, as always!
    1 point
  29. Thank you Mark. I’m slowly chipping away at my old shelf queens… two last year, and two this year. Perhaps next year I can do three. So here it is in a proper all angles session, my last completion of 2021, Hasegawa’s 1982 vintage A6M5 Zero. I bought and started it in 2016, barely, then sidelined it for unknown reasons. I restarted it a bit over a month ago and wrapped it up on the 30th. I added a PE harness in the cockpit, and used some Aeromaster Hinomarus for the green outline types that the actual aircraft wore when it was captured on Saipan. I figured it must have had a decent pilot to survive the Marianas Turkey Shoot, as it was captured intact and in flying condition on Saipan after that battle. It was brought back to the US for evaluation. Today it is the only flying Zero still equipped with the original Sakae engine. All others still flying today have had their engines replaced by other types that fit the airframe. Decals aside from the Hinomarus are from the kit, and the paint colors are Tamiya. It’s nice to finish another old shelf queen. Thanks for looking, comments and critiques are welcome.
    1 point
  30. This is another of the eight models I finished up at this year end. The Maddog Manufacturing shipyards managed to launch this last ship for 2021. My Japanese Navy has taken in service this JMSDF Izumo aircraft carrier: This is the Hasegawa 1/700 scale kit complete with a full set of photo etch. Looking at it, I see a lot of tiny pieces missing, mostly because I can't find the sprues that hold them. Still, one cannot tell from far enough away. Once i find them, I can add them to this. For now, I'm calling it done since I can't move any further on it and it's 99% completed. Thank you for looking in, comments are welcome.
    1 point
  31. Well, today I have wrapped up my Zero build. Another longtime sideliner completed! And posed on the Eduard Carrier Deck base that I’ve been working on during pauses in this build Farewell last project of 2021! I’ll get a proper walkaround batch of photos up tomorrow
    1 point
  32. Finally finished painting the figures....repositioned the turret gunner to the waist as he was going to interfere with the fit and ability to remove and replace the top fuselage section, which will remain removable. The ball turret is just sitting in position...next step is to close her up and start sanding seams! Gil
    1 point
  33. I got the new ICM OV-10A Bronco from kitlinx.com last week. It looks like it will go together well. On page 24 of the instructions a drawing of canopy masks is shown. Don't go looking for them. I filled out a support form on the ICM website & got this response from them today: Dear Nick, Thanks for your request. They are mask templates in instruction that are just printed on paper. It is up to you to make a copy or cut them from the instructions and glue on the parts before painting. Hope my info will help you. Best regards, Daryna Support manager I'll be using Tamiya tape instead of "gluing" paper copies to the canopy.
    1 point
  34. Nice selection of models. I did the same LF A-18 this year and the MPM XF-85 in the past, so I know what you've accomplished. How was the TBF build?
    1 point
  35. Wow! thirteen masterpieces in one year! You did a brilliant job on all of them! Way to go on a highly respectable year-end count and many commendations on the superior quality on all!
    1 point
  36. Tom, further to my last post the Scale Motorcars site had to close for a short period of time. They did have some real problems to sort out at source program level. It is now back up and running, and appears to be ok. I have had no problems logging in since.I Nick has further developments on his Bentley transmits to show on the SM and Britmodeller sites.
    1 point
  37. Just received the journal with the nationals winners in it. Such fantastic models. I have one question, category 293 is a soft skin category but a canon win! Just curious how can a canon win in a soft skin category? Merry Christmas, Mike
    1 point
  38. JPG's model is 1:72 scale and comes in 16 well casted white resin parts. The only real hiccup I had was the landing gear. They are at an angle, but to my eyes the angle was so slight I couldn't really make it out. trying to fix one, I snapped it, but thankfully my little collection of styrene rod had the correct size. Giving the build a break, I wanted to make a little vignette representing the alien planet or Goblin Valley UT. I had generic "science" looking figures. But when it came time to find them, they were no where to be seen. 😞 So my vignette will just be the ship. The base was some carved foam, the base was a Michaels 6" round plaque with some torn cork sheet on it, and then some Vallejo Ground paste (or whatever it's called). 😉 Next up was painting the windows. I saw a tutorial about painting windows once and it involved creating a gradient where the darkest color was up top and it got lighter toward the bottom I airbrushed some MIG NASA blue after a bit of masking, and then added a few drops of the darkest blue I had to the cup, and just shot the upper left corner. It worked out pretty well. Then came the decals. They looked pretty poor as they weren't solid. But once down on the craft, they looked fine. And just like that I was finished. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  39. Welcome to week 18 on the Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet project. This week was spent detailing the gun directors and the island. On the gun directors I first removed the molded “blocks” that represented the door and hatch. These were replaced with photo etch pieces. I then used the photo etch for the antenna and mount. Switching over to the island I removed the molded porthole covers form the bridge and replaced them with the photo etch parts. The photo etch parts have the slots in them where the kit ones did not have them. I then started on the starboard side of the island. After reviewing the photos in the reference book I found that the three “portholes” near the top of the island are actually vents. I filled the portholes with putty then used a small styrene tube and cut an angle on them and installed them over the previously filled holes. There are also a couple of ducts and a storage bin mounted to the railing. After digging through my stash of extra photo etch parts I found a few items to scratch build a platform that has a cabinet attached to it. Not sure what its purpose is but I detailed it to match the reference photos. I will next be detailing the port side of the island. I have already added the hose reels and some small rail sections. It takes al lot of time comparing the model island to the reference photos. Each time I find another small detail that is missing on the kit version. I still have the masts and rigging to do as well. See more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  40. The TBD’s of Torpedo 8 are finished. After I spent an evening correcting the misplaced antenna the canopies were added and then I applied all the decals to the fuselage and then the wings were painted and decaled. The wings were carefully placed in the folded position. With the aircraft drying from adding wings and decals I painted all the propellers and trimmed them to mount onto the aircraft. Once dry all the propellers were added to complete the aircraft. They were all staged on the hangar deck. I then started on the SBD Dauntless dive bombers of Bombing 8. The fuselage required some trimming for the cockpit section to fit. I then grabbed some reference photos. The reference photos show that some aircraft have the dive brakes open and some closed. I will do the same with some open and some closed. I also realized that the SBD Dauntless is missing one thing that most Navy aircraft have, folding wings! So once I get these all built I will need to figure out how to get all these aircraft on the hangar deck. Anyhow, getting back to the build, the cockpit photo etch has a tub with a seat and an instrument panel with pedals. There is also the rear gunner seat, gun mount, and gun which needs to be placed after the fuselage is together. I also have the photo etch set that includes the bomb swing and the dive brakes. I will be using the photo etch dive brakes on a few of them. I am working on setting up the assembly line for them now. See more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  41. This week I started working on the Devastators for Torpedo 8 for the USS Hornet. I am using White Ensign’s cockpit detail set #3548 and Tom’s Modelworks aircraft detail set #3538. The cockpit fits very well. I plan on having some of the aircraft with the canopy open and some with the canopy closed. Just like the Wildcats I set up an assembly line. Mounting the cockpit and seats first then assembling the fuselage. The detail set includes the rear gun, antenna, and the gun sight. One thing to note, The instructions for the aircraft assembly show the wings folded pointing straight up when in reality they fold over. Next I will be starting to paint the fuselage section and wings in preparation for the decals. See more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  42. Progress this week is going slowly on the USS Hornet build. All things being equal 1/350 modern jets are much easier to build than World War II fighters. With the landing gear finished I needed to install the antennas. Using the Glue Looper V4 and a Pic-N-Stic I was able to place a small drop of CA glue and CAREFULLY place the antenna. ( Check out the Tips and Tricks section for the items I used at https://davidsscalemodels.com/tips-and-tricks/photo-etch-tools/ ) It may look easy but it took one evening just to install them on 18 aircraft. With all the photo etch added I painted all the aircraft and their wings. With the wings being in the folded position I needed to put the decals on before the wings. I had purchased the Starfighter Decals Hornet Air Wing decal set. I am not sure if it was the decal film was too thin or somehow they got degraded but the squadron numbers and the aircraft numbers on the cowl were very difficult to slide and place. They kept falling apart and cracking. After messing up many of them I decided to just make my own numbers. I printed out a set for all the squadrons and replaced the ones that messed up with my own. With the decals all placed I added the canopy, wings and propeller. So the first F4F is done, only 17 more to go! Once these are finished I will be starting on the Devistator torpedo aircraft. See more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  43. It has been another week of work on the USS Hornet CV-8 aircraft. I am still working on the F4F Wildcats. For this week I am showing all the little bits of Photo etch and the process of adding them to the aircraft. Once the fuselage is assembled I added the main gear which consists of the main strut, the landing gear doors, two struts, and a tail wheel. The main strut is added first then the doors. Getting the struts in position using very fine tweezers then gluing in place takes a little time. I find the Glue Looper V4 tip works very well for placing two very small spots of glue on the fuselage and main gear. Once dry I then place the tires and outside hubs on. I pre-painted the parts but they will require touch up after bending and gluing them. I then added the tail wheel. There is a slot for the kit tail wheel so the photo etch version fits into and using medium viscosity CA glue it fills the gap on each side since the photo etch part is a lot thinner than the kit tail wheel. After it dries I then do paint touch ups and paint the underside grey. While the landing gear dries, I assemble the propellers. I included a photo of the assembly showing the fiber optic with the hub and propeller separated to show the process. There is a total of 18 F4F’s that are being built. I am hoping to finish them next week so I can start on the others. See more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  44. This week the work on the USS Hornet was limited. I was “forced” by my lovely Wife to spend a relaxing weekend on the lake fishing. We both had a great time and caught many fish Anyhow, back to the build. I finished up the aft elevator and the fantail of the ship. I then moved on to some aircraft. During the trip across the Pacific the Hornet had its normal compliment of aircraft packed on the hangar deck while the B-25B’s remained on the flight deck. I need to build all these aircraft so I can finish the hangar deck. I purchased all of the photo-etch for these aircraft. Both Tom’s Model Works and White Ensign Models provide sets. The Tom’s provides landing gear, antennas, and propellers for each aircraft. White Ensign has some cockpit details (like the rear gunner for the SBD’s) as well as flaps for the aircraft. I decided to start with the F4F Wildcats of “Fighting 8”. Using the F4F that came with the kit I built it up to the point it was ready for decals. One of the things I noticed was they have a hole for the landing gear that comes on the tree. Since I was using the photo-etch landing gear I took a small drill bit the diameter of the main gear wheels and drilled into the fuselage to create the wheel wells that are on the real aircraft. I looked at using the photo-etch cockpit pieces but the canopy is very small and thick. You would not see any detail at all. So I opted to just paint the interior green and flat black for the instrument panel under the canopy. For the propeller I need to make the shaft into the engine. The hole in the propeller and hub are 0.5mm as well as the on the aircraft cowl. I took a 0.5mm fiber optic strand and used a lighter to melt the end slightly to make it the propeller hub cap. The propeller hub then blades were slid on and painted. The landing gear and antenna on the dorsal behind the cockpit were added. It was base coat painted for the intermediate blue and grey scheme. With interior green for the wheel wells and white for the main gear struts and hubs. I then took the other 17 aircraft and created an assembly line. I am building them up until the point of adding the photo-etch. As soon and all 17 are at this point I will add the photo-etch details and then paint them. After they are built up I will use the individual aircraft decals that are part of the Starfighter Decals Hornet set. See more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  45. Work continues on the Hornet hangar bay walls. While reviewing the few photos I have I noticed that the hangar doors roll up. I used some styrene tubing for the open doors and rods for the closed ones. The open door ones were painted the exterior color 5-O Ocean Blue due to how they would roll up. As for the brand of paint I am using, I will be using Scale Colors for the ship. The colors are 5-N Blue, 5-O Ocean Grey and 5-H Haze Grey. Once these were installed I then began to add fine details to the walls. I added doors to match the ones on the outside and then added ducts for the vents on the port side. A few platforms with railings and stairs/ladders were added as well. Other details I noticed in the photos were added as well. There are many pipes and cables which will be added later. I will be using the pipes to hide wiring and fiber optic lines when I add them. The walls were then painted and installed. I am currently working on the aft elevator then I need to build up and detail the fantail. This coming week I have a couple of days where I won’t have time to work on this but am planning on starting the aircraft by the end of the week. See more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  46. This week’s update on the USS Hornet covers more work on the hangar bay walls. I also started my experiments on add illumination to the hangar deck. I do not have all the lighting figured out but I have a general idea on what I need to do and a good start on how to accomplish it. Back to the hangar bay walls, the kit walls have many ejector marks so they have all been covered with 0.5mm styrene sheets. I then use extra rails and doors to detail them. On the thin hangar walls that lead to the outside I matched the doors on the inside. I framed the areas around the doors and for the doors that are closed I scored the surface to match the same detail as the outside. I still need to make the rolled up doors for the open ones but I need to wait until I install the flight deck supports. These will also affect where the wiring for the lights will go. I have also added a couple of stokes litters and a hose reel for where the Moto-Tugs will be parked. Another thing I need to do is to remove the guilds on the hangar deck for the walls. This is because with opening doors and with adding details to the inside of the wall they get in the way. For the lighting each support has lights hanging from their edge. (4 to 6 per support) There are total of 166 lights! I took some 0.5mm fiber optic lines and using a lighter I slightly melted the end to look like a bulb then dipped it in acrylic gel medium. Once dry I cut the excess gel off where the "bulb" part is and primed it all white except where the bulb area was. I used an individual Pico LED to see how the lighting would look. The effect came out perfectly. Now I just need to make 165 more and figure out how to mount them and illuminate them. As for extras, I received Hornet Air Wing decals from Starfighter Decals. These are for the battle of Midway aircraft so I will need to make the red dots for the center of the insignia for the Doolittle raid version. I also could not find 1/350 decals for the Doolittle B-25B’s so I made my own including the few aircraft that have nose art. The other accessories I received were ten 3-D printed moto-tugs thanks to BaconFist on Shapeways and I have 3-D printed officers and enlisted crew from HOLDEN8702RD on Shapeways. Next up is the finishing of the hangar walls then I will need to start making all the aircraft, accessories, and figures for the hangar deck. These will need to be installed before the flight deck supports and lighting can be installed. See more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  47. Hello! I am Jared. Non-standard, sci-fi/what-if designs that look believable, intrigue me. Friends convinced me to turn this mech into usable model kit instead of keeping for myself just one copy. Months and months later here it is. A technical rescue machine 5DR code-named "Rescue Labor". It's a unit coming from alternative Soviet universe, which I hope will grow ;). 1/35 scale, 20cm height. 330 resin parts and 95 metal parts, decals and large assembly manual. Not a 3D print, parts have no artifacts or a need for sanding. Miniature of a mechanic is an integral part of the works. Hope you like it. It's a honor to be part of this forum. /Jared/
    1 point
  48. The 1/20th Hasegawa Maschinen Krieger Camel converted to a towing and salvage vehicle. The sphere is Alclad clear blue over gold and the body is clear green over stainless steel. The waldo is scratchbuilt. Way more work to do. Dak
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...