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  1. 2 points
    IMO, FWIW, this is an over-read of the Guidelines which appear to be far more concerned with speech than markings. The simple rule for nose-art/figures/scenes used to be, that if it didn't have to go behind the curtain, it would be OK -- it would after all be sitting on the contest table for all to view.
  2. 1 point
    I've painted the liner white or light gray, then dusted with dark gray and black pastel, depending how "used" I want it to appear.
  3. 1 point
    Right....the judges'll deduct points for that.
  4. 1 point
    Consider this: It makes more sense to produce a decent quality model...such as the Monogram B-26 Marauder, Ju-52, C-47 & F-105...that can be sold for a decent price and may well bring new modelers into the hobby, instead of a state-of-the-art (and then some) that sells for $75 to $300 that no one except advanced or expert modelers will go near. After all, if we want to build something to an advanced level, the aftermarket gives us everything we need. At the rate we're going with kit prices, we're cutting our own throats.
  5. 1 point
    Gil, as far as the packing and shipping is concerned...I took the box in a box approach. An 18" x 22" x 9" box held the model...contained in a cradle of 4" urethane foam with 4" urethane foam holddown pieces over the outer wings. That box was then contained in a 22" x 28" x 13" outer box with styrofoam peanuts in the surrounding space for padding. The entire package weighed 10 pounds and shipped via USPS for $38.70. So did it get there intact and did the client like it? I don't know. I received and email stating that the model arrived. That's it. No idea whether or not it arrived intact or damaged, nor do I know if the client liked it. That's the way it goes when you do commission builds.
  6. 1 point
    Many aircraft also had a red "passing light" in the leading edge of the left wing.
  7. 1 point
    Many aircraft have lights. On WWII aircraft they used a series of lights for night time recognition and many have various lights for formation flying at night. Many times these are represented on models as mold lines or molded in the plastic. I came up with a tutorial on how to make these more realistic using Acrylic Gel Medium and Tamiya clear paints. You can see the tutorial on my website at https://davidsscalemodels.com/tips-and-tricks/recognition-lights/ Here are some pictures to see how they look:
  8. 1 point
    I just found six different box sets of the Pactra International colors in a storage bin, and I have a Pactra small bottle paint rack that is still filled about 60% with unopened Pactra color bottles. Unfortunately, one of my favorite flat metallic colors that I could apply with a brush without streaks--Flat Metallic Gray--is gone. Testors metallics just do not apply well with a brush to any spot larger than 1/16th inch.
  9. 1 point
    Hey Gang, I picked up this bust a few years ago at a JerseyFest (or was it Resintopia). Anyway, he hung around the shelf just in primer long enuff. I did the squiggles for under the skin, and a few stripes later I called it done. Thanks for looking.
  10. 1 point
    On a shopping spree once again(just got my bonus). Ordered a Fine molds Kit and PE(includes the rigging) from Japan. The reviews on this were good, should not have any difficulty wit the build. This plane you do not see many builds.
  11. 1 point
    After an interesting start to the New Year, I finally managed to get some bench time; mostly thanks to my monthly St. Crispin's Irregulars Hobby Day. Here is where I am now. I finally completed my decals on the F-102 Delta Dagger. Now I can dullcoat this and complete the final details: Next I finished all the crazy stencils on the F-15E Strike Eagle. Now I can finish the rest of the decals and move forward on this: Next I started a helicopter that was given to me by a friend and fellow IPMS member. He knew I had wanted this helicopter and he got it for me. This is the EH-101 Merlin Royal Navy bird. I was so excited about building this, I had almost forgotten to take pics! Here is the first pic I took, showing the entire interior assembled together: Later I dry-fit this inside the fuselage to see how it fit. I was quite amazed at how well this fell together: Finally, here's a shot of all the fuselage components sitting together: One thing I like about this is that they give you an operational hinge on the tail to fold it. They also make the main rotors foldable too! Moving on, I also started one of my Christmas presents, the Mitsubishi F-2A. I started with the cockpit of course. It's a very simple affair: I then added all the main gear well walls and such, as well as the main intake scoop on the front of the lower fuselage: I had also assembled all the missiles and drop tanks for this too, but I didn't shoot pics of them. Moving on to my armor, I was able to accomplish the following work.... Here is where I was with my USAAF resupply set. I had finished dullcoating these after applying the decals: Later on, I added the cab tops and the wheels to all of these: After this, I tried to complete all of them with the final details and such, but every time I tried to move forward; something broke off. When I fixed that, something else broke off. I spent two weeks re-fixing broken things before I finally got this whole set finished. Finished pics to be posted soon. Moving on, I finally installed the tracks on the Japanese Type 89 Late: After that, I painted the tracks a flat black; added the tools, the machine guns, and a couple small roadwheels that had fallen off. Then I added the decals before dullcoating this little beastie: Due to the confusion many people have had thinking that the white stars are American markings; I've decided to add a couple small Japanese flags to the sides of this tank behind the hull numbers so people won't question why a Japanese tank has US markings. It may not be accurate, but at least it will help people understand it is a Japanese tank. You will see them in the completed pics of this tank; which will hopefully get done in a couple more days. Finally, I took the time to complete the photo-etch on the Russian T-80U that I'd started and set aside some time back. Here it is with most of the photo-etch on it: Later on when all that was dry, I went back and added the two flaps on the front of this tank, as well as touched up a few other areas: Now to get this primed and ready for paint. I believe I'll be brush painting this the whole time as I'm concerned that the Silly Putty masking will remove some of this photo etch; especially the flaps on the turret and the two front flaps under the front of the hull. After all this time and effort, I don't want to take any chances. Well, that is my small update for now; hopefully it is the first of many to come. Stay tuned for more and thanks for looking in, comments are welcome. EDIT: Please add a "preview" button to these Forums. That way I'll be able to see if my pics load okay. Also, I'll be able to see which ones don't load when I have a lot to post. Thanks!
  12. 1 point
    Nice scores Kevin! I agree with Rusty, that camouflage on that Russian bird is most intriguing. I'd love to know more about that too. Okay, here are some of my acquisitions from the past couple weeks. First is this one, given to me by a friend who got it from his next door neighbor: That has since been sold. Made a pretty penny off it. Next are two deals I got from Squadron, both were gotten for between 60 and 75 percent off: I've already started both of these. The locomotive is already at the painting stage. Last is a gift I got from a friend and fellow AMPS member: That's probably gonna be it for awhile; I need to save up for Phoenix. I have plenty to keep me busy for awhile anyway.
  13. 1 point
    Latest finished piece.
  14. 1 point
    Wow...that looks great!
  15. 1 point
    Yup, me too Gil. MBP(Models By Pete) is in my own single car garage.
  16. 1 point
    Hi Pete, I tried making models upstairs. But my wife has put a stop to that. I am stinking up the house and I got banished to the basement.
  17. 1 point
    Looked all this up in Thomas Graham's "Aurora Models" book and got this: The D-7 and SE-5 were originally flying models converted to screwdriver kits. They are both 1/19 scale and go for around $100 The B-25 was also a flying model converted to screwdriver assembly, is in 1/32 scale and goes for around $200 There was also a P-51 and P-40 in 1/27 scale, both of which were flying models acquired from Comet models and converted to screwdriver assembly. They go for around $100.
  18. 1 point
    I'm with you Gil. I really am not fond of any paint fumes, but if I had to choose one it is the alcohol based ones. My family is full of people who work in hospitals and I associate the smell of alcohol with visiting them in their work place. Unfortunately, over the years I have "sniffed" a fair amount of paint fumes and have kind of become "nose blind" to them. I know because when I am sitting in my shop, oblivious to the smell and my wife comes out and comments on the strong odor of paint.
  19. 1 point
    Personally, I've never thought of them as smelling pleasant; just stronger or not so strong. And, I've always used enamels and lacquers which have the heaviest fumes. That said, I do have a "fondness" for the smell of paints, thinners, and glues; but I think it's simply because I associate them with the fun of model building; not with any direct olfactory stimulation. To paraphrase Robert Duvall in "Apocalypse Now"...."I love the smell of Dull Coat in the morning".... GIL
  20. 1 point
    The Be2C gets a bit of a bad rap in as much as it was very good at what it was designed for when it was designed, but it was used for the wrong purpose way after it shouldn't have been used at all. It was an excellent recon/spotting a/c, being very stable with good range. However, being stable is the last thing you want in a fighter, but with no other designs ready, the British were forced to use it as just that and accordingly they were shot out of the skies in droves. When better designs finally replace it in the front line in France, it found a home for a while with the Home Defense Forces during the first Blitz by Germany's dirigibles. They were modified in some cases with the front cockpit being filled with an extra fuel tank and then faired over. The m/g was also moved to either a mount just in front of the pilot facing up or in the case of this model, into a Ross mount on top of the wing. While they had mixed success, a night fighting Be2C brought down the first dirigible shot down over England, earning a VC for it's pilot, Lt. W. Leefe-Robinson, in 1916. Here's a Be2C piloted by Flt. Sub. Lt. Buck out of RNAS Eastchurch in Sept. 1916. Painted all black with the white of the insignias and fin flash eliminated, and converted with a faired over front cockpit and top of the wing gun mount. The kit is Airfix's new tooled and very nice kit that goes together like a dream.
  21. 1 point
    This may have been mentioned in another post. I saw on a Florey Model YouTube video how to make a great filler. Get an empty Tamiya paint mixing jar, add to the jar some black colored Evergreen styrene cut up into small chunks, then add some Tamiya quick drying thin cement(the stuff with green cap). Let the styrene dissolve for a day, so you have a nice gooey texture. Then you can put the gooey mixture on a mating surface and put the two parts together. The glue in the mixture will bond the parts together and the gooey styrene will act as a filler. Wait about 24 hours for the mixture to set before sanding and any small gaps will be filled. On larger gaps like wing joints apply the mixture with a toothpick, allow to cure then sand. I have had good results. I like the styrene/glue mixture better than putty. Just make sure it is fully cured before sanding.
  22. 1 point
    I also took advantage of the Flash sale and picked up Dragon's El Alamein Sherman, another of Platz's T-33s and a set of figures (ordered 2 but the other must have been out of stock). Got all that for about half of what the Sherman retails for.
  23. 1 point
    Hasegawa's 1/48 Ki 61 "Tony". Eduard's PE cockpit, True Details Resin Wheels, Quickboost resin exhausts, Eduard's Canopy Mask. AK paint, Panel Line Wash.
  24. 1 point
    Tamiya's 1/48 He 162-A2. Eduard's PE cockpit, Eduard's Canopy Mask, True details Resin Wheels. Master Model Pitot tube and Gun Barrels. AK paint, Metallizer, Panel line wash.
  25. 1 point
    Introduction This is part 1 of the review of MiniArt's T-55 Mod. 1963 Interior Kit. Part 2 will complete the assembly of the turret, tracks, fenders, and the remainder of the kit. This kit is the first of MiniArt's T-55 variants and follows their earlier series of T-44/54 Russian tank kits. Following their previous versions, this kit is first released with full interior detailing. MiniArt has also announced a soon to be released IDF Tiran version of the T-55, and a T-55A Late Mod. 1965. With over 1200 parts, this is an extremely well-detailed kit that is best suited for patient, experienced modelers. MiniArt provides full interior details of the hull, turret, and engine. The drivers' compartment provides some detail, but not as complex as the other areas. There is no detail in the rear compartment for the transmission, oil cooler, fan, etc. There is also no provision for the main fuel tank at the front of the whole. Otherwise, this tank is packed full of extreme detail! read more View the full article
  26. 1 point
    Duh...boot scuffing dirt...gee, thanks, Mark! Glad you enjoyed the build. Now to see what my client thinks when he gets the model. Beauty shots coming in the next and last installment and the e-book will be available shortly thereafter.
  27. 1 point
    You're welcome Jim. While I don't experience that much, I do know how you feel. I'm so blessed to be a part of two model groups, as well as another general hobby group that helps insulate me from people like those you mention. When I do experience them, I try to let them know how much healthier the human brain is from all this model building. I'd heard on a radio program once where a study was done on model builders. It stated that kids who built models did far better in school than their non-model building compatriots; given the mental exercise they gave their brains. It made it easier for kids to problem solve and helped them to think more thoroughly. Also, in later life; any model builder who is susceptible to Alzheimer's will have a 50% less chance of contracting it over a non-model building individual; and if they do, it develops 40% slower than in a person who never built models. I found that to be a most interesting study and also explains how someone like me who; with three learning disabilities who shouldn't be able to function in life, has successfully run profitable businesses and solved many, many issues that others thought were unsolvable. So, enjoy your time among us here; and if you ever have the opportunity to go to an IPMS Nationals, I highly recommend it. Interaction with fellow models there is like your interaction with us on these Forums.... on steroids!
  28. 1 point
    In Dragon USA online's "Gone in a flash sale" (50% off all in stock items) last Wednesday, I got the 1/35 scale Dragon IDF M60 w/ERA kit for $24, $31 delivered. It is normally a $70 kit but was on special for $48 so I got it for half that. I believe it includes everything to build a regular Slick 60 as used by the US Army.
  29. 1 point
    I'm trying to not buy a kit unless I finish a kit. That hasn't really been working, but its the thought that counts. Right? Saw this being released and I was like, yeah, heck yeah. Battleship Yamato Type 94 46cm Main Turret in 1/200.
  30. 1 point
    1/72 scale Matchbox kit of a Mirage IIICZ assigned to No. 2 Cheetah Squadron 1964: Thanks for looking in, comments are welcome.
  31. 1 point
    Very nice job. Looks cool. Good work on the eye lens he has there too
  32. 1 point
    these kids could teach us a thing or two. now "get off my lawn!"
  33. 1 point
    Really cool. I would have spent hours on the ground looking for parts. Dave
  34. 1 point
    Intro AFV Club released this kit in the fall of last year. This is a variant of their M35x series of 2.5-ton trucks of which the M49A2c 1200 Gallon Fuel truck and the venerable M35A2/3 "Deuce and a half" truck were released. Background read more View the full article
  35. 1 point
    Those who can- DO! The rest of us just marvel and admire.... GIL
  36. 1 point
    Wandering off topic a bit, but I really enjoy jumping to sci-fi to take a break from the technical accuracy of real world military subjects.
  37. 1 point
    I used to part-time (and still help out) at the local HobbyTown. And I can assure of this: For every "traditional" model (military, automotive, etc.), we would sell a dozen Gundams. And that's a good thing. Why? Because they are plastic models, same as those Sherman Tanks, P-51's, and iterations of the USS Arizona or KM Bismarck. It is getting kids into the hobby of plastic modeling. The shop has opened up to hosting "Model Building Day" every Saturday, and for every "traditional" modeler, there are three guys building Gundams, MaK, or other Sci-Fi kits. Our upcoming show in June has a category for these models, and we've been getting the word out to the community that not only are they welcomed, they're encouraged to bring their models. I also agree on the WoT and WoS interest--Italeri issued some kits in line with these games, and Dragon used to include coupons for game points in their kits. While some of the "Senior" members of the modeling community squawked that all they were were "old junk" in new boxes, the younger guys and girls who were playing the games snapped the kits up. I had to remind a few of them that regardless of what we thought, IPMS and AMPS represents a very small percentage of actual modelers, and what we found to be junk was perfect for beginning modelers. On another note, I'm dismayed at the comments directed at the youth of today. As a kid, I built a fair number of non-traditional models. I built Star Trek, Star Wars, Aurora and Monogram movie monsters, Aurora dinosaurs, and movie sci-fi stuff just as often as I did an airplane, car, tank, or ship. As I got older, my interests gelled around historic vehicles, but it wasn't the only thing I built back in the day. The point? That kid snapping a pre-painted Gundam kit together today may well wind up being tomorrow's Rusty White or Gil Hodges. We'd do well to welcome them, rather than turn a cold shoulder to them. Ralph
  38. 1 point
    Thanks Gil, I will be using wire . Awhile back I bought some wire in different diameters. I will post pictures when the Walrus is done Wish me luck.
  39. 1 point
    Video games like World of Tanks, Fighter Ace and other such games have actually gotten gamers to try model building. They want to build a kit of their online tank or plane. Italeri even included codes for exclusive (I think) tanks for World of Tanks. Academy once released Starcraft models and Revell has released Halo kits. I used to build versions of aircraft kits that I flew when I played Microsoft's Fighter Ace.
  40. 1 point
    I am driving as I did the last time Nat's were in Phoenix. Flying actually takes longer. By the time I factor in the time to get to the airport, check in, go through TSA, wait to board, fly, disembark, wait for luggage, go to the the auto rental counter or wait for the shuttle and drive to the airport, it takes close to 6 hours. Not to mention the $700 for rental car and airline ticket. I can drive from San Diego in about five and a half hours for the cost of one tank of gas and I don't have the cost of a rental car or wait for a cranky shuttle driver. Yup, I'll drive.
  41. 1 point
    Isn't it amazing that no matter how much bench space we try to give ourselves, over time we're all working in a space of less than 12"x12" on that table! GIL
  42. 1 point
    Very nice response modelers ! After only 2 days of the survey being live on our website we have already received over 50 completed surveys for the most popular military sets YOU want to see manufactured for the IPMS National Convention to be held August 1-4 in Phoenix, AZ. Keep up the good work ! The survey will remain on the website until May 18th. That is the LAST DAY we will take surveys into account for development of the sets. If you missed the survey website address, here it is again : The website address for survey is : trucolorpaint.com/trucolor-paint-release-survey/ Your input matters - we will produce only those first 6 sets which garner the most votes in the survey. How about that, a manufacturer who listens to their customers. After the convention we will add more sets to the product line, but following what is most wanted. Looking forward to your votes and comments on the survey. Martin Cohen, PhD Tru-Color Paint
  43. 1 point
    EXCELLENT! Makes me want to see the rest of this guy.
  44. 1 point
    It is a shame that you are doing this in 48th scale, as all of those planes are available in 72nd scale and VTANG markings are available for most, if not all of them. (I love ANG aircraft.)
  45. 1 point
    As you know, the Hyatt Regency Hotel is our convention hotel. It is located right across the street from the entrance to the convention center. Rooms are going like hotcakes, but we're not sold out. But, that's only because we have a significant percentage of the hotel rooms in our room block. The one thing to be aware of is that king-bed rooms are selling quickly. However, we still have plenty of two-queen-bed rooms available. If you try to book a reservation at the hotel and get a 'no rooms at the inn' type of notice, check what you've asked for, because they king bed rooms will be sold out soon. Just change your request to a queen bed room and you should be able to book your room. If you continue to have difficulties, contact me at conventionchair@ipmsusanationals2018.org or Dick Christ at dick@thehobbydepot.com. We'll help work it out for you. Based on room nights booked, we expect to have lots of people at the convention. We hope you're one of them. See you in August. Steve
  46. 1 point
    Okay, here's another small update, thanks to the time had yesterday to work on models. I'll start again with my aircraft. The F-102 has been coming along. After dullcoating this plane once the decals dried, I peeled the masking off the windows. It took a bit of cleanup afterward to make the canopy look well enough: After doing that I had also started the missile racks underneath. But first, I shot some white on the AIM-4 Falcons and set them aside to dry while I worked on the rest of the plane: As mentioned, I started the missile racks in the weapon's bay first, adding the lowered racks to the interior: Once they had dried enough, I completed the painting of the interior of the weapons bay as well as the landing gear bays: After a break and after checking the missiles to see if they were dry enough; I masked off the forward parts of the Falcons and painted the rear section red: While those were drying, I added the main landing gear as well as the gear doors and weapons bay doors: Next came the nose gear and the wheels. I cemented them in place once the gear doors and main landing gear were dry enough: Finally, after adding a little more white to the missile fins, I cemented the AIM-4 Falcons in place on the launch racks: After a bit of touch up and final parts additions, this bird will be finished. I am hoping to have it finished today. On one of those breaks working on the Dagger, I also got the last decals on the F-15E Strike Eagle. Now I can finally finish this bird too: Finally, on my armor; I focused on the T-80U since it was so close to being finished. I first shot a base coat of green on this with the airbrush; then I used my Sotar to freehand the brown pattern over it: Later on, I sharpened up the edges using a brush and then added the little black squiggles to complete the pattern: Once that was sufficiently dry, I shot a glosscoat on the turret and added the decals: You can see the Solvaset still has to work to pull those decals down. Now all I have to do is dullcoat this again and finish the final assembly and weathering. I hope to finish this today as well. That's it for now; thanks for looking in, comments are welcome.