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Thanks John, and Eric. I did the same thing Duke. It’s too bad all of us couldn’t make the Nats this year. Like everyone else, I was really looking forward to meeting all of you I have corresponded with these last few years on the Forum. I’m not sure about attending the Nats at Vegas next year, or Omaha. Hopefully, I’ll be able to make San Marcos in 2023. Happy Modeling, Mark

My sincere condolences to a truly great man. He was an institution. Mark

Col. Meyer would be proud of the job you did Paul. Nice work! Mark

Welcome aboard Phil. Although I am an aircraft builder, do you build any muscle cars by any chance? I was a gear head way back in my younger years when Detroit ruled the streets. Happy modeling! Mark

Welcome aboard Michael. Feel free at any time if you need help. This is a great place to be! Mark

I’m very sorry to learn of this year’s IPMS Nationals cancellation. Many thanks to all for the hard work involved. It’s such a terrible disappointment. I look forward to the 2023 Nationals. Mark

Welcome aboard Gary. We have a great group of modelers here. Mark

The Blue nose masking and painting look really good, Paul. Keep the good work! Mark

Paul, You’re doing well. There are a good number of ways of masking and mending a finish. With the Alclad, did you allow enough drying time? If the humidity was higher than normal you may have had a problem there. Depending on the line you described you may VERY LIGHTLY sand the affected area until you see the line disappear. Once You respray, using light coats, you should see a normal finish. Be careful not to sand too hard and bore a hole through the finish and through the primer to the bare plastic. For masking tape, I use the curved tape from Tamiya, to do the compound geometry of angular paint jobs. There are other curved tapes that are available and similar to Tamiya’s that do good work. Masking stencils are also available from Sprue Bros. online. Or, you can use existing masking tape, using a compass or template, and make your own curve, or shape. The “Blue Nosers” (352nd Fighter Group of the US Eighth Air Force) used a generic blue paint scheme (Sometimes the blue color appeared lighter, other P-51s were darker blue) once P-51Bs were first assigned to the group after transitioning from P-47 Thunderbolts in April of 1944. Study the photos of Lt. Col. Meyer’s “Petie 2nd” and you will see how to apply the masking tape on the nose section. I hope this will help you. Below is a photo of the masking I did on a 1932 vintage Curtiss P-6E biplane. Best, Mark

You’re doing well Paul. The Alclad II can be sensitive at times so use as directed. I use light coats airbrushed every 15 minutes or so. Also, I follow a rule of low humidity levels since I do not have a paint booth or dehumidifier with air conditioning or heating. If I violate that rule sometimes I will get slight runs, cracks due to air molecule evaporation within the Alclad or paint I use, or in some cases bubbles on the paint or orange peel. Other modelers can work with their environment in other cases inside the house with proper ventilation of course. When the finish is up to expectations, I will polish with 4000 to 12000 polishing cloth one can get at most online hobby shops or your regular neighborhood hobby shop. Keep up the good work. I am anxious to see this P-51D. Best Regards, Mark

Hello Again Paul, Many thanks for your comments. On the P-51s, I use regular Aluminum Alclad II, without a sheen for the wing area. Usually, this simulates the “dull” effect (North American Aviation used an aluminum lacquer, which at first was actually puttied, sanded smooth and used as an aid to give the laminar flow wings of the Mustang more speed and less drag) . This Alclad II shade is smooth enough, and they recommend gloss over the wing area in order for the decals to conform and to seal the area surfaces. And with the remaining areas smooth from the brighter shades of Alclad, mask accordingly per photos. Every modeler has different ways of simulating natural metal, and mine is other way of doing so. By the way, the Blue nosed Mustang you’re building is a great scheme. “Petie 2nd” as assigned to Col.John Meyer had 24 victories. He also had a tour in the Korean War flying an F-86, and he later became head of SAC. Meyer had a very fine career as an officer in the USAF. You can find out even more about his WW2 service from the TV series “Dogfights” (History Channel) under the title “Miracle at Y-29” , Operation Bodenplatte. It will keep you on the edge of your seat! Try You Tube or Net Flex. I hope the above helps you out. Best Regards, Mark

It’s coming along well Paul. On a P-51, you can compare photos and see whether or not the plane was oxidized, a little or a lot, and spray different shades of aluminum over the base coat. Here’s one example below. A P-51B flown by Lt. Ralph Hofer and named “Salem Representative” (from his hometown of Salem, Missouri) I did several years ago: I hope this may be of some help to you if you are doing a natural metal finish. The dark panel you see is a shade of Testor’s Model Master Dark Anodonic Gray metalizer. The P-80 Shooting Star I built is another example shown below. Best, Mark

Nice work Richard! Mark

Paul, it’s looking good. Future Floor Wax has been known in recent years as Pledge Floor Care instead. So when you buy it don’t expect to see the old Future label anymore. Once you get the hang of using it you will find it very valuable. Go to You Tube and there are plenty of how to’s for using this product. Happy Modeling. Mark

Nice work Ron! Happy Modeling. Mark