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aAzZ09

IPMS/USA Member
  • Content Count

    773
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  • Days Won

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aAzZ09 last won the day on June 15

aAzZ09 had the most liked content!

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31 Good

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About aAzZ09

  • Rank
    Styrene Junkie
  • Birthday July 19

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://s1111photobucket.com/h472fied11/P-6Eaction=view

Profile Information

  • FirstName
    Mark
  • LastName
    Fiedler
  • IPMS Number
    14333
  • Local Chapter
    IPMS North Central Texas 1982-2005
  • City
    Georgetown
  • State
    Texas
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Georgetown,Texas
  • Interests
    Aircraft, civil and military from 1930 to 1955. Interviews with former professionals from this era have made it come alive.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,243 profile views
  1. That instrument panel looks great David! Keep up the good work. Mark
  2. Very nice Bob! I can remember the first B-58 I saw at Carswell AFB in 1958. It was on display along with some of the new B-52Bs and C models on the ramp. Happy Modeling, Mark
  3. Thanks John, and Eric. I did the same thing Duke. It’s too bad all of us couldn’t make the Nats this year. Like everyone else, I was really looking forward to meeting all of you I have corresponded with these last few years on the Forum. I’m not sure about attending the Nats at Vegas next year, or Omaha. Hopefully, I’ll be able to make San Marcos in 2023. Happy Modeling, Mark
  4. My sincere condolences to a truly great man. He was an institution. Mark
  5. aAzZ09

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    Col. Meyer would be proud of the job you did Paul. Nice work! Mark
  6. aAzZ09

    Phil S

    Welcome aboard Phil. Although I am an aircraft builder, do you build any muscle cars by any chance? I was a gear head way back in my younger years when Detroit ruled the streets. Happy modeling! Mark
  7. Welcome aboard Michael. Feel free at any time if you need help. This is a great place to be! Mark
  8. I’m very sorry to learn of this year’s IPMS Nationals cancellation. Many thanks to all for the hard work involved. It’s such a terrible disappointment. I look forward to the 2023 Nationals. Mark
  9. Welcome aboard Gary. We have a great group of modelers here. Mark
  10. aAzZ09

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    The Blue nose masking and painting look really good, Paul. Keep the good work! Mark
  11. aAzZ09

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    Paul, You’re doing well. There are a good number of ways of masking and mending a finish. With the Alclad, did you allow enough drying time? If the humidity was higher than normal you may have had a problem there. Depending on the line you described you may VERY LIGHTLY sand the affected area until you see the line disappear. Once You respray, using light coats, you should see a normal finish. Be careful not to sand too hard and bore a hole through the finish and through the primer to the bare plastic. For masking tape, I use the curved tape from Tamiya, to do the compound geometry of angular paint jobs. There are other curved tapes that are available and similar to Tamiya’s that do good work. Masking stencils are also available from Sprue Bros. online. Or, you can use existing masking tape, using a compass or template, and make your own curve, or shape. The “Blue Nosers” (352nd Fighter Group of the US Eighth Air Force) used a generic blue paint scheme (Sometimes the blue color appeared lighter, other P-51s were darker blue) once P-51Bs were first assigned to the group after transitioning from P-47 Thunderbolts in April of 1944. Study the photos of Lt. Col. Meyer’s “Petie 2nd” and you will see how to apply the masking tape on the nose section. I hope this will help you. Below is a photo of the masking I did on a 1932 vintage Curtiss P-6E biplane. Best, Mark
  12. aAzZ09

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    You’re doing well Paul. The Alclad II can be sensitive at times so use as directed. I use light coats airbrushed every 15 minutes or so. Also, I follow a rule of low humidity levels since I do not have a paint booth or dehumidifier with air conditioning or heating. If I violate that rule sometimes I will get slight runs, cracks due to air molecule evaporation within the Alclad or paint I use, or in some cases bubbles on the paint or orange peel. Other modelers can work with their environment in other cases inside the house with proper ventilation of course. When the finish is up to expectations, I will polish with 4000 to 12000 polishing cloth one can get at most online hobby shops or your regular neighborhood hobby shop. Keep up the good work. I am anxious to see this P-51D. Best Regards, Mark
  13. aAzZ09

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    Hello Again Paul, Many thanks for your comments. On the P-51s, I use regular Aluminum Alclad II, without a sheen for the wing area. Usually, this simulates the “dull” effect (North American Aviation used an aluminum lacquer, which at first was actually puttied, sanded smooth and used as an aid to give the laminar flow wings of the Mustang more speed and less drag) . This Alclad II shade is smooth enough, and they recommend gloss over the wing area in order for the decals to conform and to seal the area surfaces. And with the remaining areas smooth from the brighter shades of Alclad, mask accordingly per photos. Every modeler has different ways of simulating natural metal, and mine is other way of doing so. By the way, the Blue nosed Mustang you’re building is a great scheme. “Petie 2nd” as assigned to Col.John Meyer had 24 victories. He also had a tour in the Korean War flying an F-86, and he later became head of SAC. Meyer had a very fine career as an officer in the USAF. You can find out even more about his WW2 service from the TV series “Dogfights” (History Channel) under the title “Miracle at Y-29” , Operation Bodenplatte. It will keep you on the edge of your seat! Try You Tube or Net Flex. I hope the above helps you out. Best Regards, Mark
  14. aAzZ09

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    It’s coming along well Paul. On a P-51, you can compare photos and see whether or not the plane was oxidized, a little or a lot, and spray different shades of aluminum over the base coat. Here’s one example below. A P-51B flown by Lt. Ralph Hofer and named “Salem Representative” (from his hometown of Salem, Missouri) I did several years ago: I hope this may be of some help to you if you are doing a natural metal finish. The dark panel you see is a shade of Testor’s Model Master Dark Anodonic Gray metalizer. The P-80 Shooting Star I built is another example shown below. Best, Mark
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