SkyKing

Haters gonna hate. Hyperscale is a prime example. Most of the anti-IPMS comments come from non-members.

Is glorious model of heroic space traveler of Soviet workers' paradise!

Nice work!

I like it as well. Your wife is from Tahoka? I actually know where it is! My parents were from O'Donnell, and I started grade school in Lubbock.

Beautiful model! Next time you're in Big D, be sure to visit the Frontiers of Flight at Love Field. The real thing, lovingly restored by Vought employees, is on display there.

Just Google Sandle Hobbies. You will find many horror stories.

http://culttvman.com/main/a-modelers-guide-to-painting-the-starship-enterprise-by-gary-kerr/ http://culttvman.com/main/a-modelers-guide-to-painting-the-starship-enterprise-pt2-by-gary-kerr/

Go to "IPMS USA Home/About/Officer Directory and Email" for contact information for officers and office staff.

Why shouldn't junior entries be judged by the same criteria as adult entries (with due allowance for the age and relative inexperience of the junior entrants, of course)? I thought the judge's knowledge of the subject was supposed to be irrelevant, because "we don't judge for accuracy." Speaking of which, I've been to plenty of contests where the adult judges didn't know much about the adult entries, either.

http://culttvman.com/main/breaking-news-atlantis-buys-revell-toolings/

I'm more concerned about the contents of the box than the box itself. In ordering from such varied vendors over the years as Hannant's, Hobby Terra, and Dauntless Hobbies, as well as many ebay sellers, I've yet to receive a badly damaged item.

This is how it was done prior to the introduction of after-market decals, home computers and graphics software, ALPS printers, and blank decal paper.. From the "Model Talk" column by Geoffrey Norris, RAF Flying Review (International Edition), May 1960, p. 45. "You need: a sticky label like those used for re-addressing envelopes*, some clear varnish (I used Humbrol), and ordinary plastic enamels. Working on the sticky side of the label, coat the approximate area of the transfer with clear varnish and allow to dry. Then trace the design onto the varnish. paint it in, and allow to dry again. Another coat of clear or matt varnish on top of this will help strengthen the transfer, but it is not strictly necessary. Once this is dry you can proceed as with an ordinary transfer. One last word of advice: these transfers need a lot of soaking and do not slide so easily as those bought in kits. But they certainly stick on the model very well indeed." Having done this many tines after discovering this process, I can testify that it does work quite well. My "clear varnish" of choice in those days was Pactra Clear Gloss enamel, Humbrol being somewhat hard to find in the US in the early 1960s. *Note: this is a gummed label with "lickable" or water-activated glue, NOT the pressure-sensitive adhesive variety.

Who remembers this brand of paint? It was manufactured by Frontier HQ, Lancaster, New York. Photos of bottles, if you still have any, and scans of ads appreciated.

As a Native Texan and sometimes Texas historian and graphic designer, I say: Great Logo!