SkyKing

This is how it was done prior to the introduction of after-market decals, home computers and graphics software, ALPS printers, and blank decal paper.. From the "Model Talk" column by Geoffrey Norris, RAF Flying Review (International Edition), May 1960, p. 45. "You need: a sticky label like those used for re-addressing envelopes*, some clear varnish (I used Humbrol), and ordinary plastic enamels. Working on the sticky side of the label, coat the approximate area of the transfer with clear varnish and allow to dry. Then trace the design onto the varnish. paint it in, and allow to dry again. Another coat of clear or matt varnish on top of this will help strengthen the transfer, but it is not strictly necessary. Once this is dry you can proceed as with an ordinary transfer. One last word of advice: these transfers need a lot of soaking and do not slide so easily as those bought in kits. But they certainly stick on the model very well indeed." Having done this many tines after discovering this process, I can testify that it does work quite well. My "clear varnish" of choice in those days was Pactra Clear Gloss enamel, Humbrol being somewhat hard to find in the US in the early 1960s. *Note: this is a gummed label with "lickable" or water-activated glue, NOT the pressure-sensitive adhesive variety.

Who remembers this brand of paint? It was manufactured by Frontier HQ, Lancaster, New York. Photos of bottles, if you still have any, and scans of ads appreciated.

As a Native Texan and sometimes Texas historian and graphic designer, I say: Great Logo!

The Internet is your friend, Just enter the name of the color(s) you are looking for (start with those from the kit instruction sheet) in the search field in your browser and hit "return." To look for a specific type of paint (acrylic, enamel) in that color, type the word "acrylic" or "enamel" after the color name before pressing the "return" key. If, after trying an Internet search, you still can't find what you are looking for, post an inquiry on this forum. We're here to help.

… from the pages of Sports Illustrated (!): https://www.si.com/vault/1976/01/05/557898/its-a-small-world Bruce Culver, extensively quoted in the article and known to many IPMSers as an authority on German armored vehicles, now lives in Fort Worth.

Detailed info on Southwest's colors and logos can be found in Southwest's Brand Style Guide, a 184-page PDF which can be downloaded here: https://swa.adcompliance.com/SWA_Docs/Brand_Style_Guide.pdf

I heard today from one etailer who already collects sales tax for sales to customers in Virginia and Maryland but is NOT going to continue sales to other states because of the anticipated problems in dealing with the paperwork and requirements of the states that have not heretofore collected sales taxes.. And this is before those states have even started to develop procedures for collecting those taxes! I suspect he's not the first.

The Supreme Court today has ruled that ALL states may charge sales taxes on out-of-state online retailers and other remote sellers. Up to now, sales taxes could be charged only if the seller had a physical presence within the state where the customer resides.

How does designing a 3D model on your home computer and printing the parts on your home 3D printer for assembly differ from a model that is assembled from 3D parts that conform to scale plans, are visualized by the modeler, and manually created by the modeler from balsafoam, RENShape, styrene sheet, or other allowed materials, using knives, files, and sandpaper? Both are scratchbuilt. The only difference is the technique used to create the parts. The argument against 3D printed models sounds much like the argument against plastic kits when they first began to appear back in the 1950s: "real" model builders carved everything from balsa, and plastic kits were only toys or a fad because the process of building a plastic kit did not typically employ the "manual skills" of model building (cutting, sanding, glueing, etc).

John, I have looked in the "For Members" section and see no reference to this. Where is it?

Don't know about Clay Boyd and his wire, but try Amazon. Search in the "Industrial and scientific" category. For example, here's a link to a 10-pack of 36-inch lengths of 0.008" bright finish spring temper stainless steel wire: https://www.amazon.com/WYTCH304-29-Stainless-Precision-Tolerance-Diameter/dp/B00ODSUVB8/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1528758109&sr=1-6&keywords=stainless+steel+wire&refinements=p_89%3ASmall+Parts

https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/miniature-models-of-famous-photos

"Steve Canyon" was produced and filmed with the approval and support of the USAF, and while some of the plots may be a bit hokey, there's lots of great footage of USAF aircraft and missiles of the period.

I just acquired one of these. Any tips on building it? Also, is there a US retailer of Phoenix Precision paints (British rail colors)? I'll need some S.R. Malachite Green.