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aAzZ09

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by aAzZ09

  1. This one took a lot longer than I expected, but here it is, done. I used the Tempest Mark 5 Eduard kit and with the conversion kit converted it to a Mark II. I do not remember the vendor name of the conversion kit. I removed the engine cowling of the Mark 5 from the kit and grafted the Mark II radial engine assembly into it. I noticed that Eduard introduced a complete Mark II version (late WW2) with the markings of Charles Dyson, Wing Commander, RAF just recently. It featured a red lightning bolt draped on the port and starboard cowling and extended backwards toward the cockpit area. It’s not perfect, but after a series of setbacks it will do.
  2. Thank you Gil. The kit I used was from Eduard, with a aftermarket conversion kit to convert the model from a Mark 5 Napier Sabre liquid cooled engine to a Mark II, powered by the Bristol Centaurus radial engine. I do not remember the name of the aftermarket vendor. The Bristol Centaurus radial was a sleeve valved design and very difficult to detail so I chose to employ the cowling and conversion parts, such as the oil cooler. The landing gear was very fragile, and difficult to mount, and ditto for the landing gear wheel covers and tail wheel covered as well. Eduard just came out with a Mark II version, with markings from Wing Commander Charles Dyson, RAF, with a red lightning bolt draped across the port and starboard cowling. Colorful, but I think one is enough for now.
  3. After three long years, it is done. A lot has happened in my absence and I apologize for my lack of modeling activity. It isn’t perfect, but at least it’s finished. Happy Modeling, Mark Fiedler IPMS # 14333
  4. Nice work David! Lt. Co. Harold Rau, CO, of the 20th Fighter Group, 8th Air Force, WW2, would be proud! Mark
  5. Lieutenants Welch and Taylor would be proud of this P-40B. Nice work! Mark
  6. Welcome to the Forum! IPMS is a great place to be. Mark
  7. That instrument panel looks great David! Keep up the good work. Mark
  8. Very nice Bob! I can remember the first B-58 I saw at Carswell AFB in 1958. It was on display along with some of the new B-52Bs and C models on the ramp. Happy Modeling, Mark
  9. Thanks John, and Eric. I did the same thing Duke. It’s too bad all of us couldn’t make the Nats this year. Like everyone else, I was really looking forward to meeting all of you I have corresponded with these last few years on the Forum. I’m not sure about attending the Nats at Vegas next year, or Omaha. Hopefully, I’ll be able to make San Marcos in 2023. Happy Modeling, Mark
  10. My sincere condolences to a truly great man. He was an institution. Mark
  11. aAzZ09

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    Col. Meyer would be proud of the job you did Paul. Nice work! Mark
  12. Welcome aboard Phil. Although I am an aircraft builder, do you build any muscle cars by any chance? I was a gear head way back in my younger years when Detroit ruled the streets. Happy modeling! Mark
  13. Welcome aboard Michael. Feel free at any time if you need help. This is a great place to be! Mark
  14. I’m very sorry to learn of this year’s IPMS Nationals cancellation. Many thanks to all for the hard work involved. It’s such a terrible disappointment. I look forward to the 2023 Nationals. Mark
  15. Welcome aboard Gary. We have a great group of modelers here. Mark
  16. aAzZ09

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    The Blue nose masking and painting look really good, Paul. Keep the good work! Mark
  17. aAzZ09

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    Paul, You’re doing well. There are a good number of ways of masking and mending a finish. With the Alclad, did you allow enough drying time? If the humidity was higher than normal you may have had a problem there. Depending on the line you described you may VERY LIGHTLY sand the affected area until you see the line disappear. Once You respray, using light coats, you should see a normal finish. Be careful not to sand too hard and bore a hole through the finish and through the primer to the bare plastic. For masking tape, I use the curved tape from Tamiya, to do the compound geometry of angular paint jobs. There are other curved tapes that are available and similar to Tamiya’s that do good work. Masking stencils are also available from Sprue Bros. online. Or, you can use existing masking tape, using a compass or template, and make your own curve, or shape. The “Blue Nosers” (352nd Fighter Group of the US Eighth Air Force) used a generic blue paint scheme (Sometimes the blue color appeared lighter, other P-51s were darker blue) once P-51Bs were first assigned to the group after transitioning from P-47 Thunderbolts in April of 1944. Study the photos of Lt. Col. Meyer’s “Petie 2nd” and you will see how to apply the masking tape on the nose section. I hope this will help you. Below is a photo of the masking I did on a 1932 vintage Curtiss P-6E biplane. Best, Mark
  18. aAzZ09

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    You’re doing well Paul. The Alclad II can be sensitive at times so use as directed. I use light coats airbrushed every 15 minutes or so. Also, I follow a rule of low humidity levels since I do not have a paint booth or dehumidifier with air conditioning or heating. If I violate that rule sometimes I will get slight runs, cracks due to air molecule evaporation within the Alclad or paint I use, or in some cases bubbles on the paint or orange peel. Other modelers can work with their environment in other cases inside the house with proper ventilation of course. When the finish is up to expectations, I will polish with 4000 to 12000 polishing cloth one can get at most online hobby shops or your regular neighborhood hobby shop. Keep up the good work. I am anxious to see this P-51D. Best Regards, Mark
  19. aAzZ09

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    Hello Again Paul, Many thanks for your comments. On the P-51s, I use regular Aluminum Alclad II, without a sheen for the wing area. Usually, this simulates the “dull” effect (North American Aviation used an aluminum lacquer, which at first was actually puttied, sanded smooth and used as an aid to give the laminar flow wings of the Mustang more speed and less drag) . This Alclad II shade is smooth enough, and they recommend gloss over the wing area in order for the decals to conform and to seal the area surfaces. And with the remaining areas smooth from the brighter shades of Alclad, mask accordingly per photos. Every modeler has different ways of simulating natural metal, and mine is other way of doing so. By the way, the Blue nosed Mustang you’re building is a great scheme. “Petie 2nd” as assigned to Col.John Meyer had 24 victories. He also had a tour in the Korean War flying an F-86, and he later became head of SAC. Meyer had a very fine career as an officer in the USAF. You can find out even more about his WW2 service from the TV series “Dogfights” (History Channel) under the title “Miracle at Y-29” , Operation Bodenplatte. It will keep you on the edge of your seat! Try You Tube or Net Flex. I hope the above helps you out. Best Regards, Mark
  20. aAzZ09

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    It’s coming along well Paul. On a P-51, you can compare photos and see whether or not the plane was oxidized, a little or a lot, and spray different shades of aluminum over the base coat. Here’s one example below. A P-51B flown by Lt. Ralph Hofer and named “Salem Representative” (from his hometown of Salem, Missouri) I did several years ago: I hope this may be of some help to you if you are doing a natural metal finish. The dark panel you see is a shade of Testor’s Model Master Dark Anodonic Gray metalizer. The P-80 Shooting Star I built is another example shown below. Best, Mark
  21. aAzZ09

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    Paul, it’s looking good. Future Floor Wax has been known in recent years as Pledge Floor Care instead. So when you buy it don’t expect to see the old Future label anymore. Once you get the hang of using it you will find it very valuable. Go to You Tube and there are plenty of how to’s for using this product. Happy Modeling. Mark
  22. Nice work Ron! Happy Modeling. Mark
  23. That cockpit is coming along nicely, Nicolas. Razorback Mustangs are interesting. Happy Modeling, Mark
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