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  1. I can't wait till is over! 🙂
    6 points
  2. Latest from the CDC on the Delta variant. https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/vaccines/fully-vaccinated.html I plan on wearing a mask. Not as a political statement, but for the same reason I would wear a bandage if I had a cut. I am 71 and fully vaccinated, but prudent use of any health aid where there is a risk of severe illness or injury is common sense.
    5 points
  3. Hi. My last racer, Polish PZL P6, made from scratch in 1/32 scale, from National Air Racers in Cleveland 1931 More on the topic here: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/84035-pzl-p6-1931-from-scratch-scale-132/ Best regards, Marcin IPMS Polska
    5 points
  4. The other alternative--one I favor, and one I've discussed on this forum before--is to limit out of box models to being just that--out of the box. Period. No added seat belts, rigging, spark plug wires, etc., unless it comes in the kit and is shown on the instruction sheet. Aftermarket decals should be allowed, but that's as far as it really should go. People then argue along the lines of "well, the model will seem to be lacking if I don't add seat belts" or "it won't be accurate if there are no railings" (that one still confuses me, since, last time I checked, accuracy was not a judging criteria). My answer? Entering out of box is a decision the modeler makes. You have consciously decided to limit what you can and cannot do if you decide to enter OOB. Don't like the limitations? Then simply don't restrict yourself by entering OOB--enter the "Open" categories and let the chips fall where they may. To be sure, I have seen OOB models win categories over a dozen fully detailed models because, as Chris points out, the more stuff you add, the more opportunity there is for mistakes. As far as multi-media "high tech" (aka ProfiPack, etc.) go, the work around is as Ed pointed out--split them into traditional (all plastic) and mixed media.
    5 points
  5. Good to see the Eboard mixing with the crowd.... Gil
    4 points
  6. Finished my A-3B bomber this evening. Started with the CollectAire 1/48 resin EA-3B, so I had to saw off the plain tail and convert the backside by adding the gun stinger and rear radar bulge. The side door and windows had to be eliminated and the nose "sharpened" a bit too. This is one of CA's better, later edition kits with the wingfold option, dropped flaps and slats, and PE parts for the cockpit. I chose these markings (Caracal decals) to match the CA resin A-5A Viglante bomber (converted from the RA-5C) I'd built some years ago. And in-progress pics... Wing assembly test fitting Tail conversion work Side door and windows filled Engine assemblies The CA resin A-5A Viglante bomber that it matches... Comments, critiques, and questions welcome, as always! Cheers! Gil
    4 points
  7. I got this kit in a grab bag of kits I bought. It's from the 1956 molds and even had the pilot's head molded in halves integral to the fuselage sides. There are many inaccuracies and omissions, so to build it 'right' would be a real waste of time as there are now many other much better representations, including Airfix's own excellent re-tooled one. But I decided to do it just for fun, so I did it as a desk model and since it was to be in flight, I added the 'spinning' prop. I also rigged it, which was not called for in the instructions, and added the antenna, which you may notice is the wrong configuration, but since there were so many other 'problems' and it was simpler to do this way, I settled for it amongst all the other inaccuracies, which includes the markings. The kit's decals were useless, so I got some out of the spares box. They actually belong to a Hawker Fury of First Squadron, but hey, in for a penny in for a pound, inaccuracy-wise.
    4 points
  8. What is there to say about the Sopwith Camel? It is one of the iconic aeroplanes of WWI, probably the most well known from the Royal Flying Corps/Royal Air Force to even the novice aviation buff. And helped out no doubt by a certain cartoon beagle and his never ending quest to defeat the Red Baron. This is Monogram’s 1979 retool of Aurora’s 1956 vintage kit. I added a few bits to the interior, and detailed a few exterior bits. Rigging is steel wire and EZ Line, paints are Xtracolor, Humbrol, and Testors enamels. Decals are by Eagle Strike for a Camel from 45 Squadron flown in Italy in summer 1918 by Lt. C.M. Masters. posed with my Oeffag Albatross, my first grown up biplane build from a few years ago And ready for the dawn patrol Thanks for looking, comments and critiques are welcome
    4 points
  9. 1/4 scale bust of Thulsa Doom by Kent Kidwell Dave
    4 points
  10. Well the postman brought this a few hours ago. Thank you to the gentleman from another site who found this at a local shop for a great price and offered to pick it up and send it to me! I love the “painting guide for lozenge pattern camouflage” labeling... on such a large subject that’s gonna drive me crazy! But then again, I used to parachute out of perfectly good airplanes in the middle of the night, so I have screw loose upstairs somewhere...
    4 points
  11. Finally, after many years, this is finished. I can say that there were not wo pieces in the entire build that fit together easily. And Trumpeter found ways to take one part and make four out of it. I will say it is a huge plane and I do love Navy schemes. Finished with Squadrons decals Dave
    4 points
  12. Hi to all, I present my latest work performed with the MWP technique (Metal Work Panels) or with the complete covering of the model with aluminum panels (self-adhesive tape). This is the Hong Kong Models kit for the 1/32 scale B-25 J Mitchell 'The Strafer' model: the kit has been further improved with the following optional accessories: The version chosen (optional Zotz Decals) is the following: North American B-25 J Mitchell "Lady Lil" (correct nose for this version ) Hong Kong Models kit 1/32 scale model - version: 498thBs "Falcons", 345bth Bomber Group " Air Apaches" 5th AF in Philippines, May 1945 image posted for exclusive technical and historical reference for this thread this is the technique (sample from the wip) used to cover the model with ultra-thin and self-adhesive aluminum panels (MWP technique) : Happy surfing: cockpit interior (extracted from wip): below you can better appreciate the metal oxidation process on the engine nacelles (extracted from the wip): internal bomb compartment (extracted from the wip): Thanks for the attention. for more info & pics :http://www.adventurephotomodels.com George
    4 points
  13. I built this several years ago and it included my crude and 1st attempt at a base diorama.
    3 points
  14. The sarcophagus was a lot of fun Dave
    3 points
  15. 2020 1. 1-10-2020 Israeli Skyhawk 2.2-22-2020 B-25 Wolf Wagon 3.3-21-2020 P-51H PA_Ang 4.4-7-2020 PA ANG A7D 5.04-22-2020 303Sq Spitfire MkV 6.04-25-2020 FW 190D-9 7.05-10-2020 C-46 Yost Pilot 8.5-15-2020 Israeli Mystere 9. 06-04-2020 Hartmanns F-86 10. 06-24-2020 A-10C D-Day Anniv. 11. 07-20-2020 VMA-211 Red tail 12. 07-23-2020 2011 Tiger Tornado 13. 07-27-2020 Albatros D.III OEFFAG 14. 08-11-2020 303 Sq Hurricane B.O.B. 15. 09-19-2020 Leduc 022 16. 10-11-2020 Bf 110 Battle of Britain 17. 11-09-2020 P-40 Lt Welch Pearl Harbor 18. 11-18-2020 Victory 357 19. 12-18-2020 F4U-5 Corsair Thanks for Looking Lets Go 2021...VIVA LAS VEGAS Bill
    3 points
  16. Just FYI for future conventions, on Saturday morning there was a judging team available to give you feedback on your models. They would not have compared them to any other models and would not have know what the actual judges of your models saw, but they could have given general feedback from a judging point of view.
    3 points
  17. I've been wanting to build this aircraft for a very long time and have had two in my stash. I really wished I wouldn't have gotten rid of my Dragon Me-262A-1a Nachtjager version but this Tamiya A-1 kit was a good kit to build. I had set out to build Franz Stigler's plane from JV-44 late in the war. I read Adam Makos' book , A Higher Call several years ago and he was one of the main people that the story centered around. Long story short....he was going to shoot down a severely shot up B-17 and decided to lead them out of Germany instead. Afterwards he was assigned to JV-44 (pretty much Germany's last remaining fully operational air defense unit which was made up of the very best remaining fighter pilots) where he flew this aircraft. If you haven't read this book I won't give anything away but I'll just say that is a very powerful read. The kit is one that has been around for a while from Tamiya: There are a couple of schemes that could've been his bird but this is the one here that I went with as it just looks so dang cool.... I used Vallejo acrylics to replicate the paint and went with Eagle Cals for 95% of the markings and Peddinghaus for the #3 numerals on the side. Note.....never use the Peddinhaus offerings. Other than the #3 the stencils and other markings were just way out of scale. I had some trouble with the windscreen ended up removing it, sanding the fuselage and windscreen joints to get a better fit but that was about the only problem I had out of this awesome kit. Anyhow....after 6+ months...here is the completed build:
    3 points
  18. When I started building this kit I decided to re-scribe the model and it went well for a while. As I progressed AMS got hold of me because I felt some of the panel lines weren't perfect and so I put it away. Then one day I just said phooey to AMS and started building as is. So here is the A-20 out of the box that AMS caused so much anxiety.
    3 points
  19. No.....as usual, you ignore everyone's answer that what YOU think is important, is not; and continue to argue the point. You've had at least 2 (or more) national judges with over 20yrs experience tell you that your example is just a part of judging, and we cannot always tell which way to go, or catch everything, or always be right. When YOU judge, feel free to try to solve this dilemma in a way that satisfies you, as none of us can do so. Gil
    3 points
  20. If you want an extremely detailed Sherman, this kit is a must have. The price that I paid (my wife) was well worth it. There are ALOT of parts in this kit. Because I'm going to use this one with the other two that I built in a diorama, I decided to cut open the Turret and Hull so that you can see inside. So that you can see everything , I used a multi-colored mini LED set. I've never added lighting to a model before. With the help of my son, I got a crash course in soldering. The LED's that I am using have two different colors in one "bulb". White for non-tactical, Red for tactical. The controller for the lights, has 8 different settings to choose from. (It even has one setting for Disco Tech). I'm also adding lighting in the hull. I painted the interior Tamiya flat white. I added chipped paint (Tamiya Metallic Grey) with a torn up make up sponge. After it dried, I shot DullCoat on everything. I then applied Tamiya brown accent color to all the detail. Once it dried, I used mineral spirits to scrub away the excess wash. The engine compartment will be open with two mechanics working on it. A third mechanic will be driving a jeep with all their tools. This process has been a long one, but well worth it, I think. If anyone sees anything out of place, or incorrect, please let me know. Chris
    3 points
  21. This is the Airfix Do217 first issued in 1960. It is built as the instructions indicated and I also used the paints recommended by Airfix. The hardest part was masking the nose which I did one frame at a time. The landing gear is missing support structs and should be added. I did sand all surface detail and did some minor scribing. I also used the kit decals. So here she is built just as Airfix indicated in the instructions.
    3 points
  22. I made this small diorama/vignette with figures from Master Box and sunflowers from Fredericus Rex. The figures are made right out of the box. I did add a Tamiya figure and an resin figure, those are the guys in the background deep in the sunflowers. The MB figures are very well cast with clean crisp detail. The sunflower kits are laser cut paper and are a bit tricky and time consuming, but I like the results. Each packet makes 14 flowers, I used three, I wanted the sunflower field dense like the reference photo. The base is a piece of foam board laminated to a thick styrene sheet covered with spackle and static grass and grass tufts. The figures and the flowers are painted with a mix of Tamiya, Vallejo model colors and a bit of artist gouache. Gouache is an opaque watercolor that dries with a super flat finish, it also mixes well with model acrylics and can really punch up the colors. The photo of the abandon BT-7 in the sunflower field was the inspiration for this project. Dennis
    3 points
  23. I was reading "Helmet for my Pillow" by Robert Leckie. In the book he mentions US Marines encountering the saltwater crocodiles in the creeks, inlets and streams during the campaign on Guadalcanal in 1942. That book inspired this little vignette. The figures are bashed together from the parts box. They are a mix of resin and plastic, Warriors, Airfix, DML, and Hornet heads. The crocodile is from the old Tamiya dinosaur set. The "crocodile" might actually be an alligator, but for this project, it works as a crocodile. The water is made of cut up thin clear plastic pieces and then covered and the waves built up with Liquitex clear modeling paste. The bamboo is made by JT scenics. Anyway, thank for looking.
    3 points
  24. Adding another of those odd little models to the collection, may I present the Lockheed YF-97, later known as the YF-94C. I've never seen one built, so I decided to give it a shot... For those who might be interested, the build thread for this model is HERE Without further ado, the pics: A fairly simply conversion. I hope you'll try one yourselves! Thanks for looking in, Ed Quote "Dispensing the Tribal Wisdom since before there WAS a Tribe!"
    3 points
  25. This was one of the short run kits from RS Models in 1:72. My penchant for the odd was a little off in that this plane wasn't that weird and it actually got made. The so called "weird" part was that they install a jet engine in the rear. The Luftwaffe didn't go for it because of the expense, but a few were made for other countries. And here it is all done. The instructions said the paint was RLM 02, but my phone had other ideas. Thanks for looking.
    3 points
  26. Vinyl kits. Don't like the fish Dave
    3 points
  27. The loooong promised 3D printed kit of the USS Choctaw ironclad ram is now available from Flagship Models. Price is $170.00 plus shipping and worth every penny. Incredible detail abounds such as iron plating, doors (with hinges and other detail), full blown photo etch sheet, 3D rendered instructions, painting guide, real Mahogany masts, detailed paddle wheels, boat davits and other parts metal cast at correct scale, not to mention the Choctaw is full hull. This model isn't intended for beginners, but anyone with experience working with multi-media ships should have no problems. If you want correct era 3D printed figures to go on your Choctaw to add some life, we can help with those as well. For all the info., check out the Flagship Models web site.
    3 points
  28. Hi, In this diorama, I tried to portray the battle of Hue City scene of Stanley Kubrick's cult movie "FULL METAL JACKET". First of all i apologize for my bad english. Scale 1/35 M41 Walker Bulldog Tamiya 35055 Figures US Armoured Troops Tamiya MM217 Hope you like it.
    3 points
  29. This is the Eduard 1:72 Albatros D.Va, finished at Lt. Walter Wolf's Jasta 5 plane from June-August 1917. The kit is OK but it's 20 years old and is missing some details (tachometer and gun mounts in the cockpit, radiator inflow and outflow pipes, etc.). I dressed up the details a bit and then used Print Scale's decals sheets (separate ones for the individual markings and for the Bavarian pattern). If you've ever hung wallpaper, you have a leg up with that Bavarian pattern - not fun applying it across a compound curve, and the entire Albatros D.V fuselage is a compound curve! It's rigged with .1mm nickel-silver "rod" from Albion Alloys, and features some Cooper Details wheels and Mini World Spandaus (although darned if you can see 'em in there!). An article will be in the Journal at some point.
    3 points
  30. I wanted to post progress photos of my build of the Tamiya 1/32 Mosquito. It would be great to read comments on how I can improve. Several photos were posted in the “techniques“ forum where i received very productive comments and i have put an aircraft weathering how-to book and some weathering products on my wishlist for Xmas. There is a specific issue that i wanted to discuss (although there is nothing i can do about it now). The wheel/tire assembly consisted of many pieces in order to mimic the flat spot at ground contact. I took great care in putting all of it together. However, when I mounted the nacelle to the wing/fuselage, i was very disappointed to find out that the flat spot on the tire is not flush with the surface. You have to get down and close to see it but there is definitely a triangle of light that shouldn’t be there. If anyone out there built this model i would love to hear wether you also had any issue with this detail? thanks for looking! Stuart
    3 points
  31. Today, it was back to work on the Camel. First priority, clean up the seam gap on top of the fuselage Add some strip styrene shims sand smooth and paint... I also test fitted the cowling and guns... more in a couple of days
    3 points
  32. For my next build I will be taking on the 1/48 Airfix Junkers JU-87B-1 Stuka. This was a World War II dive bomber use by Germany. I am not using the scheme in the kit. Instead the scheme will be that of the Staffelkapitan, 4th Staffel, Stukageshwader 77. It represents how it looked in June 1940 in France. I purchased the Eduard “Big ED” photo etch detail set (#49166) and will also be scratch building some other details. Starting with the cockpit I added the photo etch details to the ammunition cartridges. Then I detailed the seat with the photo etch seat belts. The cockpit floor required some putty as the ejector points were a little on the deep side. Once filled and sanded it was painted using Vallejo RM2 gray. The spent ammo casing bin was assembled and a photo etch cover was added. I added the ammunition cartridges to the mount and the put the bin, ammo, and seat into the weathered cockpit. I am working on the cockpit walls. Again these have a lot of ejector marks which required putty to fill. The cockpit parts have very good details although it is kind of a shame that there is a lot of ejector marks. You can see photos and details of the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ju-87b-1-stuka/
    3 points
  33. "Kuklinski's Principle of Appearance: A half-built scratch built kit impresses people with your skill; a completed scratch built kit looks just like any other model." I have included a picture of my in-progress scratch built 1/25 scale FWD P-2 crash fire truck. I have been working on this since March, 2020. The body is more of less complete, except for the battery compartment (the opening on the lower, center of the body). Everything is pretty much scratch built. It's about 16 inches long, 5 inches high and about 4 1/2 inches wide. The tires are resin from American Industrial Truck Models, and some parts from the AMT American LaFrance pumper kit (mainly just the seats). The next "adventure" is building the transmission, steering, and engine assemblies. I have more pictures but I can't seem to download them. I have a question for you folks: I need to scratch built two "straight six cylnder" gas engines. Any suggestions on where these can be found, or modified? I may have to scratch build these too.
    3 points
  34. I was out of town and away from my bench on Tuesday and Wednesday so no progress then. But yesterday I finally got the fuselage assembled. and unfortunately despite all the test fitting and sanding, I still have a bit of a gap behind the cockpit from the added fuel tank. But that should not be too difficult to fill. And what can be seen of all the added detail inside up front... Also I did a bit of grinding with my Dremel to thin outbthe cowling edges Next up... seam filling and clean up...
    3 points
  35. Today’s progress report: So today I completed my intended goals for yesterday. I added instrument decals to the IP, RAF WWII type, rather than the WWI type that I had planned to use but were invisible because they needed to be applied over a white background. Then I drybrushed and touched up the seat And lastly, I touched up the inside colors. Next session I can install all the interior parts and close it all up.
    3 points
  36. One small update from yesterday’s work: I forgot to get a better shot to show the sidewall wood grain effort and now that the oil wash on the engine has dried and I do not need to worry about it staining my photo booth, here’s a photo of the engine
    3 points
  37. There's one other lesson I've learned over the years about buying model kits...... My very first Nats was in Atlanta in 1978. I didn't even know they had a vendors area and sold models! Talk about the gates of heaven opening up for me..... Anyway, I found a 1/48 Aurora SBC Helldiver...at that time the ONLY game in town for that subject in 1/48, AND Aurora was "out of production". The guy wanted EIGHT DOLLARS for it!! Now remember, this is 1978....you could still occasionally find Aurora stuff on the shelves in old hardware stores and dime stores for their original prices of anywhere from $.75 to $2.00....so NO WAY was I gonna fork over $8 for a kit I might find on the shelf for $2! Long story short....2yrs later I paid $15 dollars for it! And THUS LEARNED THE LESSON: If you WANT a kit, buy it at the best price you can WHEN you find it! You may find a better bargain later, but maybe not. It may be re-released or a newer/better one may be put out, but maybe not. More importantly, most of those "holy grail" kits only get MORE expensive as you try to wait for the cheaper/newer alternative! Gil
    3 points
  38. Hah! Preposterous. Nothing is too expensive... As long as my wife doesn't find out. Actually, I like the way Pete frames his answer around relativity. Between a large stash, lots of reference material and aftermarket "stuff", I'm sure I've spent "too much". But my hobbies before modeling were drag racing, muscle cars (primarily 67-68 Camaros) and building (and rebuilding) race engines, transmissions and rear ends...and all the associated tools and space. When kids started to come along (4), I had to change hobbies. So the expense of modeling in (mostly) 1/35th scale, relative to my former hobby, really seems like a drop in the bucket to me. Plus, the time I spend modeling, takes away from my time to spend on other expensive hobbies. Like golf...or gambling. Hmmm. Where's that next Nationals? Tony.
    3 points
  39. Last night I began construction. Actually though it was mostly just paint work. First I took a razor saw along the seat to give it some texture to suggest that of the wicker seats actually used. Once painted and with a wash it should look more the part. Then I painted up other cockpit components, and the interior of the fuselage halves. Just getting the base colors on for now. I’m not gonna use the kit pilot, so behind the seat is a glaring empty space. I searched thru my spares/salvaged parts and came up with a fuel tank to fill the void. It somewhat resembles the real thing. I’m not going for 100% accuracy, just stuff to suggest what should be there. I’m sure that must sound like blasphemy to some modelers. I’ll get to work on detail painting and washes over the next few days, plus whatever mods I intend to scratch up for the cockpit.
    3 points
  40. This is the last aircraft model that I started and completed a few months back. It’s the old Monogram A-7B. I did a few add ons in the cockpit, and changed out some of the kit ordnance using Hasegawa items based off of photos that I found online. Markings are from a couple decal sheets that I cobbled together to build a VA-95 bird off USS Midway during Operation Linebacker in Spring and Summer of 1972.
    3 points
  41. Ya know...that's really ALL you had to say. But thanks for the diatribe, bud.
    2 points
  42. Classic Kit: Airfix A-20 Havoc (1962) This is the classic A-20 first issued in 1962. It is built out of the box with only a couple of additions, namely a shim on the dorsal fuselage halves. The top fuselage is too thin as molded. Also I added guns on the nose. It is marked with an old ESCI decal sheet. I did not use putty on the wing joins. Since the nose clear parts were worn and thick I decided to use thin strips of tape for the framing. I used Model Master paints. Any info on the real aircraft and pilot is appreciated.
    2 points
  43. Revell's P-51D kit #H31 is similar to Monogram's version from the same era except it does not have the removable panels. Detail is not as crisp as Monogram's version but it is a simple kit and builds up nicely. Here's my version built out of the box. I dipped the spinner in red paint for the pointy end of the spinner.
    2 points
  44. When the new Airfix Me262 came out I built the original version from Airfix for a fun comparison. It is built out of the box and the decals are from the new Airfix Me262. For a 61 year old mold it does hold up. The last photo shows the new and old kits.
    2 points
  45. The Matchbox kit was first issued in 1972 and later editions had an extra part to make a bubble top version. One can clearly see the trademark engraved lines on the fuselage. On this one I used a spare resin cockpit (make unknown) and also a Squadron vacform canopy. Paint is by Tamiya. It certainly looks like a Spitfire when done.
    2 points
  46. In an attempt to enlarge my Medusa collection I picked up the offering from Greenwell Studio quite a while ago. Looking for something to build, I dug deep and pulled this out of my stash pile. First thing I noticed was that her snakes were really tentacles. OK... Close enuff, lets get on with it. In the kit there were 3 tentacles that had to be glued on to the head, with no readily apparent place for them. First job was to find an old pic that gave me a clue. Base colors started - Working on the tentacles - Didn't like the purple on the tentacles, and also changed a few other things. Worked on the eyes and of course goofed one of them up. The R eye is a two timer. 😉 But all done.
    2 points
  47. The M561 Gama Goat was seven years in development until production of the vehicle began in 1968. Its unique name was derived from the creator of its articulated joint, Roger Gamaunt, and its mountain goat-like climbing ability. It was unlike most other military off-road vehicles in that power could go to all 6 wheels of the vehicle, and its aforementioned articulated joint allowed 80˚ pitch and 60˚ roll ranges of the carrier module at the rear. Its excellent rough-terrain mobility was tempered somewhat by problems with tricky handling and maintenance, as well as it being rather noisy, but the Gama Goat continued in service until it was effectively replaced by the HMMWV in the late 1980s. On this occasion, a Tamiya jewel fell into my hands, something different from the usual thing that we hope to see as tanks or cars, the 6×6 M561 Gamma Goat vehicle. It is an uncommon vehicle but easy mount and can be achieved in a weekend. The version that interests me to mount is one already in civil hands that I saw on the internet in a shade of pale yellow. I decided on a base with a semi-vertical section made of paper and plasticine. The construction of the model only took a few hours, which advanced the painting work, achieved on this occasion using Mission Models paints for the base yellow color. The wheels and rims were painted in Tamiya colors and the effects of gasoline, soil, and mud were achieved with Mig Jimenez AMMO products. Replace the headlights of the model, with the product of Sticko, Silver round Dots, which gives a bright touch to the lights and create a more striking effect than those brought by the model. To achieve the pose in the base, I prepared the base with the wet plasticine which covered with clear food wrapping and presses the wheels of the model to ensure its position in the base after drying. After drying, the base was covered with white glue and very fine sand to create the texture. Then the base was painted with Tamiya paint and some bushes were placed as a final touch. The model is placed on the base in the pre-printed footprints in previous steps fixing it with super glue. The whole process took a weekend only and it was a very fun kit to work with.
    2 points
  48. Recent build. I kit-bashed the B-29A and the KC-97G to create this KB-50J Superfortress, 420th ARS, RAF Sculthorpe, 1959. Decals are cobbeled together from the parts box and the wingtip hose pods are 136 gallon drop tanks from the Airfix 1/72nd scale P-51D. Tamiya acrylic paints and Future floor wax.
    2 points
  49. Registering also gets you the swag bag which day-trippers don't get. Pin, decal, brochures, etc. You may be able to buy the decal sheet from a resale vendor after the show for an additional 10 to 20 bucks.
    2 points
  50. Actually, more detail parts in a kit makes it HARDER to compete in contests, because there's more things you need to get right. Judge enough and you'll see plenty of anti-gravity photoetched seatbelts, resin sidewalls pulling away from the fuselage sides, and badly-cut vacuformed canopies. Detail parts give you more ways to screw up.
    2 points
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