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  1. I purchased both of these kits from a vendor at our clubs annual invitational. Both kits are from Meng. This was my first time building Meng kits, and I must tell you, they were a joy to build. I was very impressed with the level of detail, and how well everything fit together. The base was covered with Stucco repair from Lowe’s. While it was still wet, I pressed the tracks, and mine roller wheels into the mixture. I painted the base with several shades of brown, and sand. Once dry, I applied a wash of Tamiya brown, and black. After it dried, I dry brushed Naples yellow hue for highlights. While trying to simulate the nonslip surface on the top of the turret and hull, I ran into some issues. After talking with some of the armor experts in our club, they pointed me in the right direction. Chris
    7 points
  2. I finished this baby January 2, after staring it in... 2002? It's a Hasegawa/Mister Kit mashup in 1:72 to depict a Serie VIII Macchi-built machine; the cockpit is Mister Kit and True Details resin with a Pavla seat with Eduard belts, and the wheel wells are mostly scratch-built. Mister Kit's photoetched gear doors were a pain to work with but ended up looking good. Missing details inside and outside the radiator were made with mesh, styrene strip and sheet and a lot of patience. The plane was painted with True North Africa mustard and light grey (matches for the Italian colors) and the camouflage was made with Mike Grant's "smoke ring" decals, which performed great (although they can be fragile). The markings for "Dai Banana!" came from a Sky Decals sheet and they were more persnickety than the smoke rings - Solvaset was my friend. The real secret weapon was the Valiant Wings monograph on the C.202, which answered many questions (questions that led it to go to the Shelf of Doom, perhaps?).
    5 points
  3. Note: This is my personal opinion based on my own experience with both our local shows and the IPMS national convention NCC needs to address this issue within the rules asap or well soon possible. With todays electronics there is no reason why anyone should need AC power for their creations. Providing power is a huge expense and pain for the host clubs. Vegas spent over $1000 providing power for the model room. That averaged $110 per model that needed power. If we are serious about keeping convention cost down we need to stop placating to contestants that cannot build around such a rule as "No AC power will be provided for model entries, no exception. Three options, provide your own AC power backup, purchase the AC power from the host site. ($$$$), build your model with simple DC battery power." Not meant as an insult anyone but we somehow need to real in cost and this is simply one convention expense that is way too high. Joe Porche #20296
    5 points
  4. I strayed a bit from simple on this one, inspired by a really nice build of the Lindberg XFY-1 given to me by a friend who has Gone West. I built up a cockpit using some Monogram F-80 parts and a PE instrument panel for which I can't remember the source. The intakes were given some internal trunking and the belly was extensively reshaped as Aurora got that pretty wrong and it is an interesting part of the airplane. A new canopy was made so I could pose it open. Some of the casters were missing so I made some resin replacements and posed them in a more realistic fashion. Work was complicated by the fact that the kit came to me as a glue bomb and the first step was to get it apart without destroying it. Later I found an unstarted kit but what would be the fun in that? It rests in the stash.
    5 points
  5. I've had this 1/48 Missing Link resin conversion for the Monogram Me-262A for decades to turn it into an Me-262B, and finally decided to build it! The conversion is simple and straight forward, only requiring the cutting down of the kit spine and the addition of the rear seater's cockpit tub. A very nice extended vacuform canopy is included, the nose radar "C" arms, as well as the seat and details for the rear cockpit. All in all, with the exception of drilling the radar arms to accept very fine wire radar antennas, this is an easy conversion. The only other thing worth mentioning is I tried a new technique for the side splotches. Instead of fighting with my airbrush, I cut VERY small swatches of sponge, held them with tweezers, dipped them into paint, blotted them off on a paper towel, and then DABBED the splotches onto the model. I was quite pleased with the result and it was MUCH easier than trying to spray them on! The model was rescribed and a brown sludge-wash applied. The markings are all from the Monogram kit, except for the black fuselage crosses. I didn't have ANY decals small enough to fit, so I made a stencil and sprayed the black crosses onto the sides. Anyway, happy to have this one built after it's sat in the stash since the 80s! Comments, critiques, and questions welcome, as always. Cheers! GIL
    5 points
  6. I wanted to see if I could build a broken relic into something presentable. I learned about the P-38 when I build this kit as a child and I would fly it around outside shooting down me109s and what have you. The copy I had at that time was molded in glossy OD plastic. I decided to find a copy and I did. I found some busted up kits for sale on eBay. The P-38 was one of them and is molded in metallic blue. It was missing the tail plane, props and spinners and balance weights. I asked for parts from the club membership and a member sent me a complete Monogram P-38 kit for parts. So here are photos showing the progress. It is one of Aurora's more accurate 1/48 models and I wanted a simple stand build; but, there was lots and lots of sanding and filling. To my surprise the Monogram replacement parts fit perfectly. I carefully removed the yellowed canopy and polished it. There is no cockpit just a molded on pilot, and rudimentary instrument panel and radio. The canopy is more like a helmet in that it sits atop the cockpit and is oversized. The only thing I could do at this point was adding putty and sanding down the sides so that it fitted properly. I glued the canopy with clear Gorilla Glue and it made a good bond without crazing the plastic. The clear canopy is missing some frame lines so I used decal strips to create those missing frames. None of the intakes are open so I just used a large sharpie to paint them black. I painted the model with Tamiya Green Drab and Mission Models Neutral Gray. The markings are from an Aeromaster sheet on OD P-38s. The props are held in place with blue-tac putty. Thanks for looking. 12 additional images. Click to enlarge.
    5 points
  7. Good luck with that. Some don't even bother to read the category cards on the tables!
    5 points
  8. 11 completions this past year, about average for me. I'll run them in chronological order. Fuel tanker and Cushman trike from the Airfix 1/72 USAAF Bomber Support Set, done as post-war civvie vehicles: Airfix 1/48 Gloster Meteor F.8: Classic Airframes 1/48 Grumman Widgeon: Airfix 1/48 Spitfire XVIII (converted from the XIV kit): Airfix 1/48 Spitfire Vb: Airfix 1/72 MBB Bo105: Airfix 1/72 Lynx HAS.2: Airfix 1/72 Lynx AH.1: Revell 1/72 F-4EJ, the very basic 1965 kit! SBS Resin 1/72 Farman F.190: Tamiya 1/48 Mosquito NF.XIX, converted from the NF.XIII kit: A pleasing year, I was pretty happy with most of these completions. We'll see what 2022 brings, but I have a number of interesting builds planned. Let's see what transpires!
    5 points
  9. Latest from the CDC on the Delta variant. https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/vaccines/fully-vaccinated.html I plan on wearing a mask. Not as a political statement, but for the same reason I would wear a bandage if I had a cut. I am 71 and fully vaccinated, but prudent use of any health aid where there is a risk of severe illness or injury is common sense.
    5 points
  10. The old Bandai 1/48 armor kits were really gems at the time and still aren't all that bad. They all sported at least a minimal interior while other companies kits had nothing but old motorization brackets. This one is bound for Malta camouflage. I completed the interior with some extra "busying-up" parts added, like some more bins in the hull, some wiring a recoil guard for the main gun and I bodged together a sort of #19 radio set. The turret basket is not accurate and is actually in common with that in the Valentine kit. As a matter of fact, if you check the one in the ESCI 1/72 scale Valentine, you'll find it's also the same. But accuracy aside, again, at least there's something in there to see through the hatches I intend to leave open. In the end, it turned out pretty well for a kit that dates from 1975. The figure is from the Tamiya Humber a/c kit as there was no crew in the box when I got it. This is everything before exterior painting started, with the exception of the exhaust system. And here's the final product.
    4 points
  11. Hi All, I'm pleased to report a bid for the 2024 National Convention was submitted. It will be evaluated by the Eboard and details will be shared at the National Convention in Omaha. Thank you all who have reached out and supported the current bid cycle. See you in Omaha! Cheers, John
    4 points
  12. Recent Group-Build /Theme for Pittsburgh IPMS Club was the 80s. I discovered a Fujimi 1/72 Sea Harrier from our in-House Dealer(Pusher) and at $7.00 started down the Rabbit hole. Yes.. Resin Interior,Master Models Pitot and a second kit for Falkland Markings had me following the white Rabbit. Cut Canopy open,Added a few antenna, Opened up some vents and out challenging was dropping Engine vents for Ground Ops. Gunze Dark Sea Gray, GX-100 and Markings for HMS Invincible . Please note "007" how could I not choose this 😃. Thanks for Looking Comments Always Welcome Cheers Bill
    4 points
  13. Not the easiest new tool Airfix kit to build but it's such a cool looking aircraft, I had to build it. I did end up using the Eduard Zoom set though.
    4 points
  14. Plugging away on my Lockheed collection, I found that I lacked a P-80A. While researching the build, I found that the Sword P-80A/B kit had a definite error that needed correction. For that whole story (and cure), the build thread is over on BritModeler HERE For those just mildly curious, here are the pics: Thanks for looking, Ed
    4 points
  15. Finished this one late last year- cheers Pig
    4 points
  16. This is John Dennett's newest offering. IIRC it's from The Outer Limits' very first show. The story is about a radio station operator that seemingly contacts his counterpart from the Andromeda Galaxy (ignore the science). Wanting to impress his girlfriend about the stations range, he boosts the signal all the way up, and accidentally sucks the alien, who's made of electricity, into this world! The kit is John's usual 2 part bust - the figure and the base. It's done in flawless blue gray resin. For a lot of my character busts I give my self the dilemma of do I paint it as if it were real? Or do I do it as an actor in costume? Since I discovered how the effect was done. I decided to paint the actor, who was William Douglas. For those that don't know the effect, they dressed Douglas in a brown wet suit because of the B&W film. Then they smeared the suit with oil, and when developing, made a negative of the being. So this turns to be the easiest paint job I ever did. Brown suit, and all I had to remember that was in going to try the trick, light had to be dark and vice versa. Painting the other parts I didn't know what different hues would do so I kept all the colors in the brown family. After the below pic was taken I coated the whole thing in Spaz Stix Super Gloss. Then with the image viewer I have - Irfanview - I first made the image B&W, and then made it a negative. I also tweaked the Brightness, Contrast, Gamma Correct, and Saturation. It gave me a result I was happy with, looking like the alien on the show. Thanks for looking.
    4 points
  17. Hello. This is my last model Wedell Williams 45 National Air Racers 1934, from scratch in 1/32 scale. Best regars Marcin IPMS Polska 🙂
    4 points
  18. Well done, sir, well done. Now get you to the contest table, and tell the judges, let the PE be an inch thick, to this finish it must come; make them laugh at that seat belt.
    4 points
  19. For Highlamder: Alas poor OOB! I knew him well, David. A category of infinite problems, of most excellent confusion It hath borne me on the contest table a thousand times; and now, How grand in my imagination it is. Apologies to Sir William Pat D
    4 points
  20. David, you mentioned about local hobby shops being passive in the face of ecommerce. They face the same problems as any other retail business. Rents and business rates and taxes ever increasing, Cost of any salaries that have to come out of the business. Buying in stock and waiting for it to sell at a reasonable profit to sustain the business with potential customers often just window shopping, getting straight onto their smart phones to compare on line prices, and ordering from some big warehouse operation instead. Not all small outfits can afford to set up ecommerce themselves as the on costs of having to pay for IT expertise to design and set up a website and maintain it, as well as their own input to keep it always up to date. Are they really passive, or just being steam rolled into giving up against relentless pressure by on line giants and modellers going for the cheaper deals they can get on line? I for one miss a number of local hobby shops disappearing, being able to browse and occasionally meet up with like minded folk in the shop, and owners who were model makers in their own right with their expertise.
    4 points
  21. He ruthlessly seized power in “ The Night of the Bloody Xactoknives!” 😉😂 Anonymous (for fear I might be next to ‘disappear’ )
    4 points
  22. Just FYI for future conventions, on Saturday morning there was a judging team available to give you feedback on your models. They would not have compared them to any other models and would not have know what the actual judges of your models saw, but they could have given general feedback from a judging point of view.
    4 points
  23. Good to see the Eboard mixing with the crowd.... Gil
    4 points
  24. Finished my A-3B bomber this evening. Started with the CollectAire 1/48 resin EA-3B, so I had to saw off the plain tail and convert the backside by adding the gun stinger and rear radar bulge. The side door and windows had to be eliminated and the nose "sharpened" a bit too. This is one of CA's better, later edition kits with the wingfold option, dropped flaps and slats, and PE parts for the cockpit. I chose these markings (Caracal decals) to match the CA resin A-5A Viglante bomber (converted from the RA-5C) I'd built some years ago. And in-progress pics... Wing assembly test fitting Tail conversion work Side door and windows filled Engine assemblies The CA resin A-5A Viglante bomber that it matches... Comments, critiques, and questions welcome, as always! Cheers! Gil
    4 points
  25. As JB VP#2 previously said 2023 is taken care of by San Marcos, Tx return to the plate. That with 6+ years of planning should be an awesome convention and I am looking forward to attending. As for 2024, I have lent my hand to all those that have reached out for info for their proposals based on my experience here in Las Vegas and I am sure that that you all will be happy and excited about the bids that will be coming forward soon. There will be bidders for 2024 and possibly 2025. Joe Porche' #20296 RC#8
    3 points
  26. 1/8 agora 427 cobra, Changed color to red. Comes blue with white stripes. Repainted wheels, rollbar and exhaust. Added a few little extra details. Repainted it red because Shelby’s comment to Enzo Ferrari was “ I can make red ones too”
    3 points
  27. After all the work done in Maddog Manufacturing, we managed to finish these up and send them to their respective Air Forces.. My US Air Force took delivery of this F-117 Stealth Fighter to replace the one stolen in '96. It is the old Revell/Monogram kit released as part of the Desert Storm four-kit set: Next my Swedish Air Force took delivery of this Vampire with the understanding that when better decals are acquired they would be added to this after the old ones are stripped. This is the ancient Airfix blister packed kit: Finally my Japanese Air Force took delivery of this U-125 Maritime Search plane. This is the 1/72 scale Sword kit sent to me by a friend. It is such a pretty plane: These are three of the six models I finished. Check out the others in the Armor and Ships Forums. Thanks for looking in, comments are welcome.
    3 points
  28. Last year iModeler member Tom Bebout sent me some classic kits with the request I would build them. I told him I would and here is the first one of them. It is an older Airfix kit with the original first issued in 1963 as kit 386. As I began to build it I soon began to like this pudgy little fat fellow. First thing I did was sand down the rivets and second thing was to figure out how to improve the clear parts. Common with Airfix kits with cabin window is that there is always a nice big sink mark in the middle of the clear piece. For the nose windows I used Microset Clear window glue which worked OK. On the side fuselage windows I sanded and polished out the parts hoping to remove the sink mark. It worked on some and others it didn't. To seal the side windows I experimented with two kinds of clear glue on the inside to prevent them from popping off. Unfortunately the interaction between the clear gorilla glue and the other clear glue caused some white specks on the windows. Lesson learned. Practice on a test kit before using it on a build. I masked the fuselage windows with a mask ordered off eBay. The canopy frames are thin strips of decal painted with the correct color. The paints are from Tamiya (sky), AK (Dark Earth) and Mission Models (green). I used blue tac to mask the camo pattern and it worked well. The decals were slightly out of register so I replace the roundels, codes and fin flash markings with decals from my spares binder. I flattened the finish with Dullcote. The motto on the side of fuselage is supposed to be on each side. I screwed up the starboard side ones so only the port side has them. The nose cap, lower clear part and turret are glued in place with clear Elmer's glue. Somewhere on the floor or on my bench is a small landing gear door that popped off, but is not noticeable. The next one will be the Monogram 1/48 TBF.
    3 points
  29. The 2023 Nationals will be in San Marcos, Texas. Additionally, I've had multiple conversations with potential future hosts. Please message me any context for the late 'decisions.' Anything worth sharing will help influence making future shows better. Your last statement concerning responsibility is misaligned with the current process. Correct, the local chapter is the main action arm of executing the convention. In fact, they are the heart and soul of the convention and the National Organization is indebted to their service. However, the National Organization supports registration and bears the financial responsibility. The contest is managed by the National Contest Committee (NCC), which develops the rules and categories, executes judging on Friday night, and communicates the results on Saturday. They work tirelessly from Friday to Saturday in order to get the results ready for the banquet. Another team that is critical to the show's success. The resource we're developing will clearly communicate the ins and outs of hosting a National Convention. We hope this resource, which evolves every year based on feedback, will incentivize clubs to put a bid in for nationals. I'd also encourage anyone curious or interested in any aspect of the National Convention please shoot an email to ipmsusa2ndvp@ipmsusa.org
    3 points
  30. Started a new project- 1/35 Coast Guard MH-60T Jayhawk rescuing a Hornet pilot from the drink- here’s our poor Hornet driver the water base is a resin casting- the helo will be in a hover over the water- The red arrow shows where the clear mounting rod for the helo goes- cheers Pig
    3 points
  31. Made some progress today. Getting things ready for primer and paint. Even after I built The air to ground ordinance, I had a boatload left over. If there’s one thing about academy kits, I give you lots of extras. It still amazes me the Landing gear on this kit. It is highly detailed, and has white metal reinforcements built inside it for additional strength. Chris
    3 points
  32. Hello all! Awhile ago I posted pics of my Fokker F-27 Friendship with one propeller missing and called it done. Now I can finally say that it is done! Finished pics are here: Sweet! Now that looks so much better!
    3 points
  33. I'm a bit of a throw-back and go old school with stretched sprue. Heat it, stretch it to the appropriate thickness, let it cool, cut it a tiny bit longer than needed, glue into place with a drop of white glue. When dry, if it is sagging, put a toothpick in a candle flame and let it light. Blow it out and then place the rigging line into the smoke (or visa versa). Slowly draw closer until the sprue snaps tight. Get too close and it melts, but it's easy to start over and no harm done. Some sprue stretches better than others and maybe best of all, it comes in all sorts of colors. This is the 1/72 Contrail Vacuform Wildebeest.
    3 points
  34. With all due respect I think if more IPMS members READ the rules carefully and the preamble to the rules defining BKB much of this self-inflicted confusion and frustration would go away. The rules are written in the King's English and are pretty cut and dried, trying to parse the meaning and find loopholes that are not there is a waste of time. If anything, the new BKB rules are much clearer than the OOB rules ever were. Basically, if it ain't there or on the instruction sheet you can't add it. Provisions were made for certain cases like some armor or motorcycle models where non-plastic media is used to support the structure or are needed to assemble it (screws & bolts, metal chassis). No offence intended to anyone, but this is not that hard to build and compete within these rules if one desires to do so. Pat D
    3 points
  35. The way things usually go, only 200 would vote, and if approved there'd still be howls of outrage at Omaha that it wasn't advertised enough by the same guys who CAN'T BE BOTHERED TO VOTE! 4000 members, 500 votes for officers, or roughly 12.5% ... which isn't enough to pass an amendment under the old CBL. (10% now)
    3 points
  36. I appreciate your post. It directly addresses issues that led to the breakdown of OOB and points out the same issues have immediately reappeared with BKB. I'd like to comment on several portions of your post ... excerpted above. First, yes, BKB is an attempt to return to the original intent of a simple build ... for those who want to build simply. It is really that straightforward. Second, BKB is specifically defined as a category with limitations ... discussed in the rules in detail. There is clear language that no model has to be entered as a BKB ... it is the entrant's choice. Thus: The model builder should note that entering a model in any Basic Kit Build category is their choice. Models in these categories have limitations applied to them that are not applied to entries in the rest of the categories. If an entrant doesn't want limitations, not to worry. There are many regular classes that can be entered without BKB limitations. However, there are no categories that allow a BKB entry built to each individual modeler's individual druthers ... where one can add whatever they want, for whatever good reason they determine, and call it BKB. Third, the timing of the release of the 2022 Nats Rules is dependent upon a good deal of effort and coordination and review which occurs behind the scenes. Which takes time. As you point out, the timing is normal. I do empathize with someone who has completed an entry which was up to OOB standards, but is not up to BKB requirements. The obvious option is to enter into a regular category, which, as you have pointed out, is competitive for a well-built OOB type model. Fourth, the arguments to expand the limitations, previously, for OOB seem to be continuing for BKB. Perhaps some of the reaction is based upon a desire to again push the boundaries. The rules address this impulse: The general BKB approach is to build what came in the kit box. In some cases, this may result in a perceived incomplete or inaccurate model. While prior guidelines for out-of-the-box were modified for exceptions/inclusions, the BKB approach will return to “what came in the kit box”. You are not required to make-up for any perceived kit deficiencies/inaccuracies based on detailing accessories. Thus a standard of accuracy or completion is not applicable to BKB. And, again, an entrant can build to whatever level of accuracy he wants --- and enter into a regular category. Thanks for you post. It helped clarify my thinking and understanding of BKB. I imagine that, over time, there will be some tweaking -- there always is.
    3 points
  37. The examples which I have given are ship-related and I have given my position with respect to BKB as it relates to the Ship class. I do not want to get out too far ahead of Mark, Jim, or any of the other Head Judges. However, there are problems with reading the rules as an absolute. The individual Head Judges must be given an amount of latitude. I give you the Eduard weekend edition P-51D kit reviewed in today's Hyperscale. OMG! the kit includes a PE fret with 5 numbered parts. Disqualified! Now, go to the Eduard website and pull up the instructions. You will see that parts PE1 and PE2 are scribing templates. The instructions have you filling several access panels and since scribing lost panel lines is allowed, I take this as an acceptable use of PE. The PE is not a final detail on the entry. The remaining PE parts are several options for RWR stub antennas on the vertical fin. If you don't use them, it is still a single media entry within the spirit of BKB. If you do use them, go play in the regular categories. You can also see why providing the instructions is important. I always attempt to use the term "kit" as the items to be assembled and "entry" as the completed item on the table. YMMV Ed Grune NCC Head Ship Judge
    3 points
  38. Today was a paint session on the stowage items base colors. Almost four hours using most of my enamel Olive Drabs, Olive Greens, Khakis, and most everything in between to paint the items. The beautiful thing about using enamels over acrylics is that any enamel mess ups onto the base acrylic IDF Sand are easily cleaned up with paint thinner. Tomorrow I need to work on the road wheel tires and the exhausts.
    3 points
  39. Looking for kits to start the year (besides the Skystreak) I found Mark Warthling's Pestilence Labs Monster from Young Frankenstein, and John Dennett's Tiny Tim. I guess I want to get a head start of next Christmas. But he's for a separate post. First thing to decide is what color was the Monster. Fortunately the movie being filmed B&W on purpose, and there were plenty of color images available. Where the box are shows a blue-green. He's definitely a blue. One dilemma I always have for myself is should I paint him up as if the character is real, or as an actor in makeup. I usually go for the former, but this time I went for the later. I got out my flesh triad and went to work. The blue went over the skin tones. I actually muffed up at this point putting too much blue on, and eliminating all the skin tone. I tried to save it my using my lightest skin ton as the highlight. Worked fairly well. Then it was time to paint up the clothes. His shirt was a black, and the jacket was a brown. The stone was was painted with 3 colors to add a little extra color to the model. The kit comes with a broken mug from his scene with the hermit. I was lucky enough to find this screen grab, as I thought I noticed a design on the mug while rewatching the movie. I tried my best to copy it. Almost done I tackled the fire, and is my typical fire recipe. Remember that fire has to be painted backwards from the usual Base color, shadow, highlight. The lightest (hottest) color appears closest to the source of fuel - his finger in this case. The last thing was his eyes. Looking up Peter Boyle's eyes, according to a few statistic websites, I was surprised to find out that his eye color is black! Having a pupil show up against that would be a problem. So I made the irises a dark gray. I also chose the eyes down as if he's pondering *whats happening to my thumb* look. A little gloss over the eyes, and I was done. Thanks for looking.
    3 points
  40. To expand on Ron's comment, these centers often rely on room bookings and food sales to underwrite the Convention space. IPMS doesn't offer the "density" to be affordable for most convention centers to be interested in our business. We aren't profitable enough for them to care, especially in the first tier market, and often in the second tier market as well. Most members are unaware that the annual budget for the Nationals is well in excess of $100K when the "hidden" costs are broken out. Omaha is unusual in that the center was built in the middle of nowhere (if you went to the 2011 show, you'll remember the only thing nearby was the Cabellas! The area has since been developed.) And the attached hotels are actually too small for our needs. Other conventions have had to deal with the attached hotels not offering enough rooms at the show rate, forcing attendees to stay at other places, thus the host chapter looses those room nights raising their hosting costs. IPMS manages to sell out multiple room blocks every year, so we are lucky that way. A third factor is the infamous "cheap bastard syndrome": there are guys who will stay at the cheapest possible hotel, often across town, just to save money for the vendor room and complain about the drug deals in the hotel parking lots. Las Vegas was a bonanza for them. Not only did they not help the host chapter by staying in the Rio nor registering for the show, rather there were suddenly lots of new "cousins" buying the family GA week pass, at least while I was at the GA desk on Wednesday and Thursday. Omaha needs to be aware that there will be many similar "cousins" trying to get the $15 family pass. Define what a family is on the signage. The fourth factor is the food. These centers have "restaurants" which rely on weekend food sales to provide the profit margins of the entire convention center. The $50+ rubber chicken dinner doesn't go over well with most of the members wo go. We don't know what the banquet cost will be this summer, but people that drive to the show often begin their drive back other vendor room winds down, especially if they haven't entered anything in the contest. All of this needs to be considered by any group looking to place a bid. It isn't as easy as Micky & Judy made it look in their movies.
    3 points
  41. So I neglected to add my last few updates here… Firts up, I built the kit crew figures. I love the poses on these guys, very natural then I started priming… not realizing that I had forgotten to add stowage. So I stopped the priming, let it dry, selected some stowage items from my spares collections and epoxied it all in place then the next day I finished up the priming next up, base colors…
    3 points
  42. Thanks John! This one builds up pretty quickly. Two days progress for this report: On Friday, I started assembling the turret, but ran into a speed bump fairly quickly. The lower portion of the mantlet dust cover was not as wide as the upper potion. After gluing those two parts together, I had to add putty then allow it time to dry overnite before sanding and adding fold contours with needle files. And since I didn’t want to add all of the easily broken off external turret fittings before adding the mantlet, I stopped at this point. Saturday was smooth sailing on picking up where I left off. With the help of online reference photos for more accurate placement, I added all of the remaining turret parts, aside from the antenna bases and the TC’s .50 cal. MG. Then I set everything up for a couple of progress photos I just have a last few small bits to add, then I can start painting.
    3 points
  43. Last time I built a F-105G, I was in the 7th/8th grade. No paint, or decal, just good old Testors tube glue. Had a blast. Decided to add lights and sound. Went on YouTube, and found “F-105D startup”. I’m using a Bose Soundlink for a speaker. Going to build a jet blast wall to put it in, The lighting is the same kind I used to light up the inside of the Sherman. Hobby Lobby carries these mini LED light sets. They have a portion of a row devoted to different sets of these. Easy to use, and really cheap.
    3 points
  44. I was ready to call this finished the other day. I took pics and when uploading the to my PC there was something missing. I never added in her eyebrows. I went up to my hobby room, and I gotta be honest and say those two thin lines were the scariest paint stokes for me to date. The model show the scantest line where they go, and even when I drew them in with pencil first - it was still nerve wracking. Whew she's done, and this completes my BPMS Pledge for 2021. Thanks for looking. https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E-7-_2qqQ1c/YY07ucxoHGI/AAAAAAAAGrc
    3 points
  45. Built this one for a co-worker who crewed P-3s in the Navy. Built OOTB; but I did have to make the bat tail art and paint the wing walks since the old kit decals were pretty well shot and I could find no aftermarket decals for VP-24. Now on to that 1/32 B-17E! GIL
    3 points
  46. Got some more work done in the Radio room and the bomb bay....... Radio room side walls...doesn't look like that much, but it involves more than 30 PE parts... A few door doo-dads added to the bulkheads... Bomb bay side walls,,,unpainted so the parts can be seen before they're blended in... Bomb Bay doors and the center bay brace.... Not sure how much will be seen, but it's being added! GIL
    3 points
  47. I've been wanting to build this aircraft for a very long time and have had two in my stash. I really wished I wouldn't have gotten rid of my Dragon Me-262A-1a Nachtjager version but this Tamiya A-1 kit was a good kit to build. I had set out to build Franz Stigler's plane from JV-44 late in the war. I read Adam Makos' book , A Higher Call several years ago and he was one of the main people that the story centered around. Long story short....he was going to shoot down a severely shot up B-17 and decided to lead them out of Germany instead. Afterwards he was assigned to JV-44 (pretty much Germany's last remaining fully operational air defense unit which was made up of the very best remaining fighter pilots) where he flew this aircraft. If you haven't read this book I won't give anything away but I'll just say that is a very powerful read. The kit is one that has been around for a while from Tamiya: There are a couple of schemes that could've been his bird but this is the one here that I went with as it just looks so dang cool.... I used Vallejo acrylics to replicate the paint and went with Eagle Cals for 95% of the markings and Peddinghaus for the #3 numerals on the side. Note.....never use the Peddinhaus offerings. Other than the #3 the stencils and other markings were just way out of scale. I had some trouble with the windscreen ended up removing it, sanding the fuselage and windscreen joints to get a better fit but that was about the only problem I had out of this awesome kit. Anyhow....after 6+ months...here is the completed build:
    3 points
  48. When I started building this kit I decided to re-scribe the model and it went well for a while. As I progressed AMS got hold of me because I felt some of the panel lines weren't perfect and so I put it away. Then one day I just said phooey to AMS and started building as is. So here is the A-20 out of the box that AMS caused so much anxiety.
    3 points
  49. No.....as usual, you ignore everyone's answer that what YOU think is important, is not; and continue to argue the point. You've had at least 2 (or more) national judges with over 20yrs experience tell you that your example is just a part of judging, and we cannot always tell which way to go, or catch everything, or always be right. When YOU judge, feel free to try to solve this dilemma in a way that satisfies you, as none of us can do so. Gil
    3 points
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