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  1. 3 points
    Actually it works best if you use an "Old Guy" computer!
  2. 3 points
    Yes! I look forward to buying you a beer! And we can discuss whether the line between passion and insanity is raised or recessed. Regards, Nick
  3. 2 points
    The MK44 Queens 'B' Knight is a variant of the MK44 designed and released as a kit by Takaaki Saito of LoveLove Garden. I was enamored with the design when I saw the first images he posted of the master. I picked this kit up as a Christmas present to myself at the end of 2017. It took a few months before I could build the kit but it wet together quickly once I started. The Hasegawa MK44 line of kits are a breeze to build and the resin add-ons from the LLG kit make this a unique looking mecha. The only change I made was adding the shoulder armor plates from the GrobberHund Altier to the hull sides and replacing the kit hand with an unused claw from the KingKrote kit. A couple of smoke launchers were drilled out and wires are from 0.015" solder wire. The model was painted with Tamiya acrylics and weathered with oils, enamels and pigments. I made extensive use of oils to filter the base colors and add some interest. Additional images can be found here: MK44 Ausf G Queens 'B' Knight
  4. 2 points
    Another completed build that was started over a year ago. It's an NHRA class Super Comp dragster build using a Revell top fuel kit as the base. The body and chassis has been shortened to better represent the dimensions on a super comp car. The graphics are fictitious in nature and were created on my home computer and transferred to decal film. The scoop is a resin piece that I created the master for using Renshape. And, the engine, interior and chassis is loaded with added details for wiring, plumbing, etc. If you go to my Fotki link you can see the entire buildup in pics. which also shows the change in graphics after a failure in clear coat application. http://public.fotki.com/1320wayne/my-drag-models/sportsman-cars/super-comp-dragster/
  5. 2 points
    Real Life has kept me away from the workbench over the last 7 months, but more free time recently allowed me to finish the Accurate Mini kit of the Vindicator.
  6. 2 points
    The M42 Duster is finished! It will go into the GJ VAMC display case later this week, at which time I'll take some photos of our 2 cases and post them here. The Duster was a challenging build, but turned out pretty nice! I added an M60 instead of the .30 cal MG and also a few pieces of stowage. Weathering was purposely kept to a minimum, and all the interior photos of the turret I found showed that everything was painted OD. The decals (except the stars) were from that Tamiya kit that I have now disposed of. Please check out the photos and tell me what you think.
  7. 2 points
    I did find the Batmobile on eBay for a decent price. My local Hobby Lobby has listed the Tamiya Gama Goat for $12.49 on clearance. I bought two. They were regularly $49.99 so it was 75% off.
  8. 2 points
    Rusty says it best and I wish I could instill that attitude in all my model buddies. While I go to contests and enter models I no longer worry or care about not winning. I still chat and discuss when something wins that I feel shouldn't have (as all modelers tend to do). My theory or mentality is that if I win I was fortunate enough that 3 fellow model builders (hopefully) thought my entry was better than the others presented on that day and time. If I don't win.....Guess what? I will still build models to the best of my ability and will still enter contests until I can no longer build.
  9. 2 points
    Personally, I've never thought of them as smelling pleasant; just stronger or not so strong. And, I've always used enamels and lacquers which have the heaviest fumes. That said, I do have a "fondness" for the smell of paints, thinners, and glues; but I think it's simply because I associate them with the fun of model building; not with any direct olfactory stimulation. To paraphrase Robert Duvall in "Apocalypse Now"...."I love the smell of Dull Coat in the morning".... GIL
  10. 2 points
    IMO, FWIW, this is an over-read of the Guidelines which appear to be far more concerned with speech than markings. The simple rule for nose-art/figures/scenes used to be, that if it didn't have to go behind the curtain, it would be OK -- it would after all be sitting on the contest table for all to view.
  11. 2 points
    Hey Ron...First off...I think you'll enjoy build scale cars, if you like 1/1 cars. OK..to try and answer your questions... Personally... I strip all the chrome(using concentrated laundry bleach...Clorox is what I use) from every build that I do. The Chrome that's applied to most of the the kits are way too brite for the smaller scales. I will leave the chrome for 1/12th and larger builds. To re-chrome....I shoot a Black or Blue High gloss base coats. Alclad II has Chrome that has a little learning curve. You can use Alclad polished Aluminum as it works good too. I also use ALSA Mirror Chrome which has a small learning curve but does not rub off when dry. If you want to leave the chrome and just touch up where it was cut from the sprue...then you can use a small paint brush( 3 0 or smaller) and a dab of Model Master Chrome Silver #FS 17178. Model Master has another chrome paint but it's not as good. I've used both and this one works the best between the two. Put a small amount of paint in a mixing pallet and add a drop or two of Lacquer thinner. Don't mix it in just let the thinner hit the edges of the paint and then load you brush and apply to the spot on the part. NOW...since MOLOTOW has come out with 3 paint pens and a refill bottle...all one has to do is just touch the part with it and it's rechromed. But...the small down side of it is..it takes at least 3-4 days for it to dry. It's is remarkable how well this paint looks when applied. If you can work with the dry time...then Molotow is the way to go. You can do a search on the web and watch a a few videos that's out there on it. Well Ron...I hope I've shed a little light on the chrome thing for you. Just remember there's no right or wrong..it's what ever works best for you. Gary
  12. 1 point
    Mark, I'm delighted to see the excellent photo postings (Quantity, Coverage and Quality) this early in the Convention. It's a real gift to those of us that didn't make it this year. I would like to see more People (visiting tables, viewing models, visiting each other, etc.) as it makes me feel like I'm there seeing old friends. Enjoyed working with you at previous conventions and feel your being there this year is helping the response significantly. Hope to see you in Nooga' next year. THANK YOU,
  13. 1 point
    Hi, Peter, This is a great way to introduce yourself to us. You only get one chance to make a good first impression, and yours is a whopper. I know I will enjoy seeing your work-in-progress pictures. Thanks for alerting us to this project. Welcome to the Forum. Ed
  14. 1 point
    Stunning work! I envy you getting such a smooth and shiny coat on your model.
  15. 1 point
    With MANY thanks to Mark Aldrich for his most generous donation, our local Vietnam Veterans will soon have an extremely nice model of an M42 Duster to look at in our club's display case at the local VA Hospital. The model is a very highly detailed kit from AFV Club, and it was quite the challenge to build. Construction/gluing is now complete, with painting and weathering to come next. Minimal or no flash on all parts, and the fit was usually real good with a few exceptions. I can easily recommend this kit to others. Please check out the photos, with one additional photo of four "Sandbox" vehicles I added to the display case last week. As I was re-arranging the display case for the new models, a nurse stopped and said: "Oh, I've noticed new models from time-to-time, but I have never before seen someone open the case and put them in. Thanks for doing this for our vets." Made my whole day--maybe the week.
  16. 1 point
    This isn't a historically accurate build. I took some liberties and mated a reworked split hatch turret to a production hull. I picked up the Tamiya Pershing and AA Super Pershing resin conversion for cheep at a swap meet. The casting texture on the AA turret was so nice (except for the pin holes that keep popping up) I had to use it. I also used the front armored plates and skipped the rest. I used a Black Dog resin set for the fender stowage and used misc. stowage and epoxy putty for the rest. The barrels are RB models, track tool and tool box handles are TMD. PE is a combo of Eduard and scratch. The tracks are Fruil and they only included two lefts so I'm a little bummed by that. It's not technically accurate but I've been having fun with it.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks Kev. You reminded me to post final images: Additional images can be found here: Super Jerry F.2
  18. 1 point
    Hey all, It's been a while, but the C-46 is done and shipped. So now it's back to the Kinetic 1/48th kit of the Northrop Grumman E2C Hawkeye 2000. Some of you may find it helpful to go back and review the first three installments of this build. As with the C-46, this is a commission build for another client. O.K., y'all up to speed? Then let's see if I can get you a ways farther down the road. Besides the normal canopy, the E2C has three round windows located in the starboard fuselage. Kinetic provides individual inserts that fit perfectly. Due to the extended tab attached to each window, there's no problem with solvent fouling the clear. On the outside, these are some of the easiest windows I've seen to mask. Slap a piece of blue masking tape over each, run your fingernail around the window seam, follow that with a #11 blade and you're done. Whether you opt for extended or folded wings, that large radome guarantees that this little critter is a tail sitter and then some. Since there's enough room, l picked up a package of self-adhesive lead weights from Great Planes....try your radio control airplane shops if you can't find them elsewhere. With the cockpit installed in the starboard fuselage, I packed in close to a full ounce of lead in front of and behind the cockpit. The white arrows show you exactly where. Since each 1/4 ounce piece has VERY sticky tape on the back, you won't have to worry about the weights coming loose. But do be sure you have'em where you want'em before applying pressure because you won't be gettin' them loose. Another 3/4 ounce or so of lead was added to the port fuselage. Not only did this make sure that it wouldn't tail sit, it also tells you why those Scale Aircraft Conversion metal replacement gear are essential. If you haven't had an Oops! event while working on models, you haven't been building very long! Here I got ahead of myself and joined the tail end of the fuselage before adding the tail hook well. Fortunately the solvent hadn't cured too long, so a lot of care and a new #11 blade made splitting the aft fuselage fairly easy. Rather than split the entire fuselage, I wrapped a rubber band around the fuselage about halfway up, then shoved a spring clothespin into the gap to keep the fuselage halves separated,. With the tail hook well properly installed, the fuselage halves were rejoined and a rubber band along with another spring clothespin was used to keep everything snug until the solvent dried. Partly because of its size, the fuselage is not one that can be held together and watch the seams disappear. I had to work my way around a few inches at time, as well as employing the assistance of a number of rubber bands as I went.
  19. 1 point
    Working on the undercarriage. Landing gear almost complete. The decal for the nose gear door went on very nicely. Looking more like a phantom now with the fuselage done. Getting ready to paint the basecoat then decals. You can see more photo's at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-academy-f-4b-vf-111/
  20. 1 point
    Many aircraft also had a red "passing light" in the leading edge of the left wing.
  21. 1 point
    Nice scores Kevin! I agree with Rusty, that camouflage on that Russian bird is most intriguing. I'd love to know more about that too. Okay, here are some of my acquisitions from the past couple weeks. First is this one, given to me by a friend who got it from his next door neighbor: That has since been sold. Made a pretty penny off it. Next are two deals I got from Squadron, both were gotten for between 60 and 75 percent off: I've already started both of these. The locomotive is already at the painting stage. Last is a gift I got from a friend and fellow AMPS member: That's probably gonna be it for awhile; I need to save up for Phoenix. I have plenty to keep me busy for awhile anyway.
  22. 1 point
    Hasegawa's 1/48 Ki 61 "Tony". Eduard's PE cockpit, True Details Resin Wheels, Quickboost resin exhausts, Eduard's Canopy Mask. AK paint, Panel Line Wash.
  23. 1 point
    Intro AFV Club released this kit in the fall of last year. This is a variant of their M35x series of 2.5-ton trucks of which the M49A2c 1200 Gallon Fuel truck and the venerable M35A2/3 "Deuce and a half" truck were released. Background read more View the full article
  24. 1 point
    Hey Gil, As always, a great event!!! I had a blast!!
  25. 1 point
    Did you notice that the men working on the models dressed properly to go to work? White shirts, ties, and jackets even in a paint shop. :smiley14: Fast forward a century and reflect on how workers (or people in general) dress today. :o Ed
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