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  1. 11 completions this past year, about average for me. I'll run them in chronological order. Fuel tanker and Cushman trike from the Airfix 1/72 USAAF Bomber Support Set, done as post-war civvie vehicles: Airfix 1/48 Gloster Meteor F.8: Classic Airframes 1/48 Grumman Widgeon: Airfix 1/48 Spitfire XVIII (converted from the XIV kit): Airfix 1/48 Spitfire Vb: Airfix 1/72 MBB Bo105: Airfix 1/72 Lynx HAS.2: Airfix 1/72 Lynx AH.1: Revell 1/72 F-4EJ, the very basic 1965 kit! SBS Resin 1/72 Farman F.190: Tamiya 1/48 Mosquito NF.XIX, converted from the NF.XIII kit: A pleasing year, I was pretty happy with most of these completions. We'll see what 2022 brings, but I have a number of interesting builds planned. Let's see what transpires!
    5 points
  2. I purchased both of these kits from a vendor at our clubs annual invitational. Both kits are from Meng. This was my first time building Meng kits, and I must tell you, they were a joy to build. I was very impressed with the level of detail, and how well everything fit together. The base was covered with Stucco repair from Lowe’s. While it was still wet, I pressed the tracks, and mine roller wheels into the mixture. I painted the base with several shades of brown, and sand. Once dry, I applied a wash of Tamiya brown, and black. After it dried, I dry brushed Naples yellow hue for highlights. While trying to simulate the nonslip surface on the top of the turret and hull, I ran into some issues. After talking with some of the armor experts in our club, they pointed me in the right direction. Chris
    3 points
  3. Despite difficulties and issues keeping me from the workbench; I still managed to squeeze some time in to finish some up. These are the latest armor models to be delivered to my armies. First up, my United States Army took delivery of this Armory Models 1/72 scale M-41 Walker Bulldog: I know there should be a Ma Deuce on top of that but the resin and photo-etch parts for that were just a bit too daunting for me to try right now. Later, when I can go through my parts stash, I'll find something easier to mount. Next, my Australian Army took delivery of this ACE 1/72 scale Centurion Mk.5LR: My British Army then took delivery of two vehicles. The first one was this ACE 1/72 scale Centurion Mk.5: The second vehicle that they received was this FV-4005 "JS Killer", based on the Centurion Hull: And now back to the bench to see how many more I can finish. Thanks all for looking in, comments are welcome.
    2 points
  4. Here's my 2021 output: Airfix Hurricane Ready for Battle set. The figures are also done but not pictured. A great set. The F-15's are all the 1/32 Tamiya kits, and the Su-27's are the 1/32 Trumpeter kits. These 5 were built to be props for a movie. The A-18 is the 1/72 LF kit, the Me-109V-1 is the 1/72 MPM kit, and to end with a total regression, the Aurora Se-5. I really should spend a little more time on that one, cleaning up the flying wire attachments.
    2 points
  5. Bob, how long are you waiting to remove the masks? It's best to do it soon after the paint dries on the surface but is still a bit flexible. Peel the masking back parallel to the masked surface, and not at anything like perpendicular to it.
    2 points
  6. This is the 54mm of Igor from Young Frankenstein. The kit is white metal from Romeo Models. A fun quick project painted with enamels. Dak
    2 points
  7. David, you mentioned about local hobby shops being passive in the face of ecommerce. They face the same problems as any other retail business. Rents and business rates and taxes ever increasing, Cost of any salaries that have to come out of the business. Buying in stock and waiting for it to sell at a reasonable profit to sustain the business with potential customers often just window shopping, getting straight onto their smart phones to compare on line prices, and ordering from some big warehouse operation instead. Not all small outfits can afford to set up ecommerce themselves as the on costs of having to pay for IT expertise to design and set up a website and maintain it, as well as their own input to keep it always up to date. Are they really passive, or just being steam rolled into giving up against relentless pressure by on line giants and modellers going for the cheaper deals they can get on line? I for one miss a number of local hobby shops disappearing, being able to browse and occasionally meet up with like minded folk in the shop, and owners who were model makers in their own right with their expertise.
    2 points
  8. I'm calling it close for this year's Christmas model. It's Bob Crachit from Christmas Carol sculpted by John Dennett's MoonDevil Studio. A typically nice kit in 1/5 scale. It's 2 parts of purplish resin - the bust and the base. As with the Scrooge bust from a few years ago, it's based on the 1951 film. Since the film was done in B&W, I had to look fro movies posters to see how the characters were imagined. I found two images of Bob - one with a blue tie/scarf, and one with red. Thinking there's nothing Christmas-sy about blue, I went with the red one. Plus the red tie sort of ties in with Scrooge's red scarf. As usual I started off with the face. All images show him fair skinned with dark hair so here we go. Besides the red tie, I'm planning for a white shirt, green vest and a brown jacket, with hopefully some texture on it to make it look tweed. We'll see about that. But that's for next time. I started out this session by painting the hair. On TV it shows up very dark. I hit it with the darkest brown I had, Then highlighted it when dry. Ugh. Too light. Then 3 coast of Citadel's Nuln Oil got it back to a decently dark color. For the clothes, I had the colors I wanted picked out - White shirt, red tie, green vest with brass button, and black piping, and then a brown jacket. It went along well. for the vest I added a little design in a light green and ten went a little lighter for the 2n'd highlight. The jacket I decided to make a tweed jacket. A dark brown was the base coat. A lighter brown stippled with one of my ruined brushes started the tweed look. Finally, I used V's English Uniform, which is a lighter brown but with a lot of green in it was stippled on and this gave me the tweed color I was used to seeing. Only problem was that it dried a satin. I found a bottle of Anti Shine that The Army Painter put out and it dulled the jacket down quite a bit. I'm still trying to get my clear coats straight. When I spray gloss, I want gloss. When I was matte - I want completely flat - not almost satin, not even egg shell. I want flat. Any discoveries will be reported. A simple gray stone base was painted with a white cut out and Bob's name in red. To finish it off, A let it snow on the base. Thanks for looking.
    2 points
  9. Thanks Carlos. Appreciate the comment. The figures finally came in. This one’s complete .
    1 point
  10. A new year, a new project is begun. I’m building Academy’s 1/35 M51 Sherman. For those not familiar with the type, this was probably the ultimate development of any Sherman. The Israelis started with 76mm gunned M4A1E8s, replaced the gas radial engine with a Cummins Diesel engine, then modified the turret to accept a French made 105mm main gun. These tanks saw combat in IDF hands in the 1967 and 1973 wars where they faced off against T-54/55s, T-62s, M47s/M48s, and Centurions among other types. And the upgunned Shermans were able to help win the battles. Anyways, this is Academy’s 90’s vintage kit that I’ll be building OOB, except for adding some stowage. Today I completed the first couple of steps, assembling the HVSS suspension, and adding the return rollers to the lower hull sides the biggest time killer was mold seam line clean up, and dinging up the idler and road wheel tires… Hopefully this should move along at a quick pace now…
    1 point
  11. I am simply posting some pics of a build I completed two years ago. Boba Fett was completed in 2020 and my best friend who I have known since grade school provided me with the 1/6 scale Bandai kit. My friend is a huge Star Wars fan. The model is now in his care. Here are some pics of it:
    1 point
  12. So I neglected to add my last few updates here… Firts up, I built the kit crew figures. I love the poses on these guys, very natural then I started priming… not realizing that I had forgotten to add stowage. So I stopped the priming, let it dry, selected some stowage items from my spares collections and epoxied it all in place then the next day I finished up the priming next up, base colors…
    1 point
  13. Well I’ve been adding more to the stash since my last update… Since Hobby Lobby was doing their 40% off a few weeks ago, and I had a bit of cash on me, and I’ve been wanting one for awhile now… then I had a $25 gift certificate that I’d won at IPMS for Andy’s Hobby HQ, so another one falls off the wish list and into my stash… and then the seller of this little piece on eBay sent me a reduced price special offer… how could I say no? that’s all for now…
    1 point
  14. 2021 was a good year for me modeling wise. Surprisingly I built more aircraft than armor this last year. First up in aircraft, my Revell Germany 1/48 X-35 prototype Next is my Monogram 1/48 Sopwith Camel Hobbycraft 1/48 La-5, quick build for my great nephew AA 1/48 Chengdu F-7B (Chinese built and modified Mig-21), a long time shelf queen Hasegawa 1/48 A6M5 Zero, another multi year shelf queen And for armor… My AMPS 12 Hour Challenge build of the ESCI 1/35 Leopard 2A3 Testors/Italeri 1/35 M47 So an average of one completion every two months. Although I actually finished most at the beginning and end of the year, not in the middle. This next year I aim to increase my completions… Thanks for looking
    1 point
  15. Words fail me, except to say that models like this are the reason IPMS needs a separate "Real Space" category for the national contest.
    1 point
  16. This model is from the Revell 1/24 Gemini. I got it off of eBay and it was quite damaged so I rebuilt it, added a lotta scratch built details including the wing itself. I weathered the crew module and the Nose details and landing gear were all built from scratch using styrene and Aluminum tubes and styrene bits and springs from ball-point pens. The Heat Shield was painted ... This was a really satisfying build ... ;- D Pete
    1 point
  17. Now here is my Christmas presents I ordered for myself. This is round one: Two Dragon Bushmasters: one Australian and one British: One M-1124 MRAP: One IBG Crusader anti-aircraft tank: One Zvezda Russian 2S35 Koalitsiya: And finally my Trumpeter HEMMTT Load Handling System: That's round one in from Freetime Hobbies. Next is my Hobbylink Japan order of four more models that are crossing the Pacific ocean now. I have a couple more I plan on ordering from what's left, if I can.. Stay tuned.
    1 point
  18. Yes, they are throwback 19th Century industrialists who care for nothing but lining their own pockets, and 'little guys' be damned. Very unsavory characters. I use torn-up old t-shirts, pillowcases and sheets.
    1 point
  19. On 1 April 1942 sixteen modified B-25B bombers were loaded aboard the USS Hornet CV-8. The next day the USS Hornet along with the ships of Task Force 18 sailed towards the Hawaiian Islands. They met up with the USS Enterprise and Task Force 16 then headed across the Pacific Ocean. On the morning of 18 April 1942 approximately 650 nautical miles from the Island of Japan, sixteen B-25B’s Led by Lieutenant Colonel James Doolittle launched off the Hornet’s deck to perform the first air operation to strike the Japanese mainland in retaliation for the attack on Pearl Harbor. For this next build I am building Trumpeter’s 1/350 USS Hornet as she was during the Doolittle Raid. This is going to be a super-detailed project. It is being built to be displayed at a museum that is creating a display of the raid for the 80th anniversary. This project is estimated to take around 4 – 5 months to complete. There are many aftermarket accessories that will be utilized in this build. So far I have four different sets of photo etch parts just for the ship, a wooden deck, all the B-25B’s as well as all the aircraft that were stored in the hangar bay that were later moved to the flight deck after the bombers departed in case the Task Force was spotted and needed to defend itself. All of the aircraft have multiple photo etch sets for the cockpits and exterior details. I will also be illuminating it as well. I have many accessories still on order like 3-D printed Moto-Tugs and crew members. At the end of the project I will list all of the accessories I used. I also purchased two reference books. One on the USS Hornet itself and the other covers the Doolittle raid. I also located a shipbuilding drawing of the Yorktown class carriers that covers all the decks from keel to the top of the island. I scaled the hangar deck sheet to 1/350 scale and printed it out so that I can accurately place the interior walls and other details. Starting with the hangar I began using the White Ensign Hangar bay photo etch set (#3541). The instructions give you sizes and plans to scratch build the hangar bay walls. I installed the hangar deck then painted it deck grey and gave it a basic weathering. I will be doing more weathering/staining once I figure out the layout of the aircraft. Using Evergreen Models 1.0mm styrene sheets I cut out the parts for the interior walls per the hangar bay detail set instructions. I have a few sheets of extra doors and rails from previous ship sets so after building the walls I added photo etch doors, stairs and rails to match the reference photos. The kit walls have numerous ejector pin marks. Instead of filling and sanding all of them I opted to use sheets of 0.5mm sheets to cover them. Also, since I will be illuminating the hangar bay I cut open many of the hangar bay side doors. With the starboard side interior walls assembled per the photo etch set instructions I added all the fine details as they are shown in the photos from the reference book. After adding details to the forward elevator bay I did some detail work on the bow. One of the obvious things missing from the model details is the bow mooring guides. I used some styrene tubing to make these. I then reshaped the anchor chain holes. On the kit these were just straight thru holes. I used a file to make them angled and flared. I removed the molded chain and will be replacing it with a real anchor chain. There are two supports for the front of the flight deck. I filled the mounting holes for the kit plastic ones and installed the correctly sized photo etch parts from the White Ensign Detail set (#3525). Working on getting the starboard side interior detailed and installed this coming week. See more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  20. Added the de-icing boots, wing walk lines, and the markings last week, as this all needed to be done before any weathering. Starting to see the end of this project! GIL
    1 point
  21. Hey MM. A basic Air Force turbine airstart cart is the A/M32A-60, which was used in Viet Nam and a variation is still in use today. In the navy we call called them "huffers". For flight deck use, huffers were usually found attached to the back end of a standard MD-3 shipboard tow tractor. We also had huffers similar to the Air Force units that were towed and not attached to a tractor. I can't address F-105s, but, in the Navy, we used a variation of a bottle jack to change tires on F-14s and F-4s. I've attached a picture I pulled from the web of an A/M32A-60 start cart and an F-4 in Viet Nam. Hope this gives you something to work with.
    1 point
  22. All that’s left to do is wait for the plaque to come back from the trophy shop. The diorama depicts a training exercise, in the Golan Heights, in 2016. The turret took the longest to build. A lot of small parts. After construction, the suspension remain completely articulate. If you wanted to pose this tank in mid air during a jump over a small hill, this is Suspension would look extremely realistic. Thanks for following. If you see anything out of place, please leave a comment. Chris
    1 point
  23. Well got a couple nice little items from EBay and a very nice ICM kit on Christmas from my wife. The ModelKasten M42 tracks for My T34/85, The Dragon Models Jagdpanther was a nice snag when Seller made a nice offer Same with the R35 and some French Infantry plus other odds and ends.
    1 point
  24. Thank you Gil! Yeah, it was a tough seam to fix, but in a way, I found it easy given the flat surface. The Aluminum is Vallejo's acrylic dark aluminum sprayed through my cordless airbrush.
    1 point
  25. Looking for kits to start the year (besides the Skystreak) I found Mark Warthling's Pestilence Labs Monster from Young Frankenstein, and John Dennett's Tiny Tim. I guess I want to get a head start of next Christmas. But he's for a separate post. First thing to decide is what color was the Monster. Fortunately the movie being filmed B&W on purpose, and there were plenty of color images available. Where the box are shows a blue-green. He's definitely a blue. One dilemma I always have for myself is should I paint him up as if the character is real, or as an actor in makeup. I usually go for the former, but this time I went for the later. I got out my flesh triad and went to work. The blue went over the skin tones. I actually muffed up at this point putting too much blue on, and eliminating all the skin tone. I tried to save it my using my lightest skin ton as the highlight. Worked fairly well. Then it was time to paint up the clothes. His shirt was a black, and the jacket was a brown. The stone was was painted with 3 colors to add a little extra color to the model. The kit comes with a broken mug from his scene with the hermit. I was lucky enough to find this screen grab, as I thought I noticed a design on the mug while rewatching the movie. I tried my best to copy it. Almost done I tackled the fire, and is my typical fire recipe. Remember that fire has to be painted backwards from the usual Base color, shadow, highlight. The lightest (hottest) color appears closest to the source of fuel - his finger in this case. The last thing was his eyes. Looking up Peter Boyle's eyes, according to a few statistic websites, I was surprised to find out that his eye color is black! Having a pupil show up against that would be a problem. So I made the irises a dark gray. I also chose the eyes down as if he's pondering *whats happening to my thumb* look. A little gloss over the eyes, and I was done. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  26. Oops! I forgot one that I'd finished last year. It is a real crappy job but at least this dog of a kit got done! This is the IBG Diamond T Wrecker, poorly finished back in November... but finished: Maybe someday I'll get another one and try again to do it right.
    1 point
  27. Hi, all. Finally getting back into the hobby and focusing on more "traditional" stuff. Last few years have been tied up doing a lot of Warhammer projects. While that's been enjoyable it's been nice to get back to working on armor, planes, etc. First completed project for the new year. Fantastic kit and very fun build.
    1 point
  28. Excellent! I'll PM you with my address. Give me the postage cost and I'll send it on.
    1 point
  29. Thanks John! This one builds up pretty quickly. Two days progress for this report: On Friday, I started assembling the turret, but ran into a speed bump fairly quickly. The lower portion of the mantlet dust cover was not as wide as the upper potion. After gluing those two parts together, I had to add putty then allow it time to dry overnite before sanding and adding fold contours with needle files. And since I didn’t want to add all of the easily broken off external turret fittings before adding the mantlet, I stopped at this point. Saturday was smooth sailing on picking up where I left off. With the help of online reference photos for more accurate placement, I added all of the remaining turret parts, aside from the antenna bases and the TC’s .50 cal. MG. Then I set everything up for a couple of progress photos I just have a last few small bits to add, then I can start painting.
    1 point
  30. Nice collection, Paul. I like the Farman a lot, but all look great, especially the Esso tanker and Autocar.
    1 point
  31. I didn’t get a lot done this year.I think I purchased more kits than I built. Does that make me a collector? Had fun with the grandkids introducing them to modeling. Happy New Year! IMG_9850.MOV
    1 point
  32. Excellent work - all top notch models!
    1 point
  33. Great subject and quite good work.
    1 point
  34. Just renewed my membership. Quite easy.
    1 point
  35. James, Glad to hear it. Going live always brings out any idiosyncrasies in a new system! Overall we are seeing very good acceptance, and we will fix the issues that do come up ASAP. Mike
    1 point
  36. Hi Paul! Welcome back and glad you're here (nefarious or not)! Make yourself at home and please post some of your builds. Gil
    1 point
  37. Beautiful work, as always!
    1 point
  38. Thank you Mark. I’m slowly chipping away at my old shelf queens… two last year, and two this year. Perhaps next year I can do three. So here it is in a proper all angles session, my last completion of 2021, Hasegawa’s 1982 vintage A6M5 Zero. I bought and started it in 2016, barely, then sidelined it for unknown reasons. I restarted it a bit over a month ago and wrapped it up on the 30th. I added a PE harness in the cockpit, and used some Aeromaster Hinomarus for the green outline types that the actual aircraft wore when it was captured on Saipan. I figured it must have had a decent pilot to survive the Marianas Turkey Shoot, as it was captured intact and in flying condition on Saipan after that battle. It was brought back to the US for evaluation. Today it is the only flying Zero still equipped with the original Sakae engine. All others still flying today have had their engines replaced by other types that fit the airframe. Decals aside from the Hinomarus are from the kit, and the paint colors are Tamiya. It’s nice to finish another old shelf queen. Thanks for looking, comments and critiques are welcome.
    1 point
  39. Well, today I have wrapped up my Zero build. Another longtime sideliner completed! And posed on the Eduard Carrier Deck base that I’ve been working on during pauses in this build Farewell last project of 2021! I’ll get a proper walkaround batch of photos up tomorrow
    1 point
  40. Finally finished painting the figures....repositioned the turret gunner to the waist as he was going to interfere with the fit and ability to remove and replace the top fuselage section, which will remain removable. The ball turret is just sitting in position...next step is to close her up and start sanding seams! Gil
    1 point
  41. It will probably be awhile before I get to it. I also have the Testor’s kit and will probably build them together. I’ve been in contact with the folks at SAC. They’ll have a landing gear kit for it in February or March.
    1 point
  42. Nice selection of models. I did the same LF A-18 this year and the MPM XF-85 in the past, so I know what you've accomplished. How was the TBF build?
    1 point
  43. Finito! The Akron Canton IPMS club has a nose-art theme coming up this winter and I was psyched to find something to use! I've had this P-38 in my stash since the Chattanooga Nats and this was the perfect reason to pull it out. I found the Exito decals for Beautiful Lass and it was all the extra graphics they provide that sold me on purchasing them. Here's a little background on the aircraft as well. The plane was built by Lockheed in Burbank and shipped overseas disassembled and then reassembled. Lt. John O'Neill piloted Beautiful Lass from March to November 1943 on missions over Rabaul and New Guinea, claiming eight aerial victories during this period. The aircraft was lost on December 28 1943 when pilot Lt. Ormond Powell encountered foul weather and was declared MIA when he failed to return to base. 5 coats of gloss clear, then rolled some 4000 grit paper on a dowel to sand down the edge of the decal all around to make sure it was perfectly smooth and you couldn't feel the lip from the decal (they are just a tad thick). Then I applied 2 coats of flat clear. By the time it dried the decal edge had totally disappeared. Super happy with this because it was so obvious to start with. I preshaded in a lightened olive drab (used yellow zinc chromate) and then edged it all in black mist to get the varnish effect from the taped seams to show clearly. I modified a brush so it had just a few bristles and did the panel lines in aluminium. Tamiya leaves this center section smooth but the pics show lots of wear so this seemed to create the right affect. And that final closing shot…I'm pretty darn happy with this 🍺 I still have some work to do on my assembly methods. Fortunately a little chipping goes a long way to hiding that haha
    1 point
  44. Finally complete!!. My hat goes off to you Armor guys. Chris
    1 point
  45. The TBD’s of Torpedo 8 are finished. After I spent an evening correcting the misplaced antenna the canopies were added and then I applied all the decals to the fuselage and then the wings were painted and decaled. The wings were carefully placed in the folded position. With the aircraft drying from adding wings and decals I painted all the propellers and trimmed them to mount onto the aircraft. Once dry all the propellers were added to complete the aircraft. They were all staged on the hangar deck. I then started on the SBD Dauntless dive bombers of Bombing 8. The fuselage required some trimming for the cockpit section to fit. I then grabbed some reference photos. The reference photos show that some aircraft have the dive brakes open and some closed. I will do the same with some open and some closed. I also realized that the SBD Dauntless is missing one thing that most Navy aircraft have, folding wings! So once I get these all built I will need to figure out how to get all these aircraft on the hangar deck. Anyhow, getting back to the build, the cockpit photo etch has a tub with a seat and an instrument panel with pedals. There is also the rear gunner seat, gun mount, and gun which needs to be placed after the fuselage is together. I also have the photo etch set that includes the bomb swing and the dive brakes. I will be using the photo etch dive brakes on a few of them. I am working on setting up the assembly line for them now. See more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  46. Progress this week is going slowly on the USS Hornet build. All things being equal 1/350 modern jets are much easier to build than World War II fighters. With the landing gear finished I needed to install the antennas. Using the Glue Looper V4 and a Pic-N-Stic I was able to place a small drop of CA glue and CAREFULLY place the antenna. ( Check out the Tips and Tricks section for the items I used at https://davidsscalemodels.com/tips-and-tricks/photo-etch-tools/ ) It may look easy but it took one evening just to install them on 18 aircraft. With all the photo etch added I painted all the aircraft and their wings. With the wings being in the folded position I needed to put the decals on before the wings. I had purchased the Starfighter Decals Hornet Air Wing decal set. I am not sure if it was the decal film was too thin or somehow they got degraded but the squadron numbers and the aircraft numbers on the cowl were very difficult to slide and place. They kept falling apart and cracking. After messing up many of them I decided to just make my own numbers. I printed out a set for all the squadrons and replaced the ones that messed up with my own. With the decals all placed I added the canopy, wings and propeller. So the first F4F is done, only 17 more to go! Once these are finished I will be starting on the Devistator torpedo aircraft. See more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  47. It has been another week of work on the USS Hornet CV-8 aircraft. I am still working on the F4F Wildcats. For this week I am showing all the little bits of Photo etch and the process of adding them to the aircraft. Once the fuselage is assembled I added the main gear which consists of the main strut, the landing gear doors, two struts, and a tail wheel. The main strut is added first then the doors. Getting the struts in position using very fine tweezers then gluing in place takes a little time. I find the Glue Looper V4 tip works very well for placing two very small spots of glue on the fuselage and main gear. Once dry I then place the tires and outside hubs on. I pre-painted the parts but they will require touch up after bending and gluing them. I then added the tail wheel. There is a slot for the kit tail wheel so the photo etch version fits into and using medium viscosity CA glue it fills the gap on each side since the photo etch part is a lot thinner than the kit tail wheel. After it dries I then do paint touch ups and paint the underside grey. While the landing gear dries, I assemble the propellers. I included a photo of the assembly showing the fiber optic with the hub and propeller separated to show the process. There is a total of 18 F4F’s that are being built. I am hoping to finish them next week so I can start on the others. See more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  48. This week’s update on the USS Hornet covers more work on the hangar bay walls. I also started my experiments on add illumination to the hangar deck. I do not have all the lighting figured out but I have a general idea on what I need to do and a good start on how to accomplish it. Back to the hangar bay walls, the kit walls have many ejector marks so they have all been covered with 0.5mm styrene sheets. I then use extra rails and doors to detail them. On the thin hangar walls that lead to the outside I matched the doors on the inside. I framed the areas around the doors and for the doors that are closed I scored the surface to match the same detail as the outside. I still need to make the rolled up doors for the open ones but I need to wait until I install the flight deck supports. These will also affect where the wiring for the lights will go. I have also added a couple of stokes litters and a hose reel for where the Moto-Tugs will be parked. Another thing I need to do is to remove the guilds on the hangar deck for the walls. This is because with opening doors and with adding details to the inside of the wall they get in the way. For the lighting each support has lights hanging from their edge. (4 to 6 per support) There are total of 166 lights! I took some 0.5mm fiber optic lines and using a lighter I slightly melted the end to look like a bulb then dipped it in acrylic gel medium. Once dry I cut the excess gel off where the "bulb" part is and primed it all white except where the bulb area was. I used an individual Pico LED to see how the lighting would look. The effect came out perfectly. Now I just need to make 165 more and figure out how to mount them and illuminate them. As for extras, I received Hornet Air Wing decals from Starfighter Decals. These are for the battle of Midway aircraft so I will need to make the red dots for the center of the insignia for the Doolittle raid version. I also could not find 1/350 decals for the Doolittle B-25B’s so I made my own including the few aircraft that have nose art. The other accessories I received were ten 3-D printed moto-tugs thanks to BaconFist on Shapeways and I have 3-D printed officers and enlisted crew from HOLDEN8702RD on Shapeways. Next up is the finishing of the hangar walls then I will need to start making all the aircraft, accessories, and figures for the hangar deck. These will need to be installed before the flight deck supports and lighting can be installed. See more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  49. Hello! I am Jared. Non-standard, sci-fi/what-if designs that look believable, intrigue me. Friends convinced me to turn this mech into usable model kit instead of keeping for myself just one copy. Months and months later here it is. A technical rescue machine 5DR code-named "Rescue Labor". It's a unit coming from alternative Soviet universe, which I hope will grow ;). 1/35 scale, 20cm height. 330 resin parts and 95 metal parts, decals and large assembly manual. Not a 3D print, parts have no artifacts or a need for sanding. Miniature of a mechanic is an integral part of the works. Hope you like it. It's a honor to be part of this forum. /Jared/
    1 point
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