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  1. Well the postman brought this a few hours ago. Thank you to the gentleman from another site who found this at a local shop for a great price and offered to pick it up and send it to me! I love the “painting guide for lozenge pattern camouflage” labeling... on such a large subject that’s gonna drive me crazy! But then again, I used to parachute out of perfectly good airplanes in the middle of the night, so I have screw loose upstairs somewhere...
    4 points
  2. If you want an extremely detailed Sherman, this kit is a must have. The price that I paid (my wife) was well worth it. There are ALOT of parts in this kit. Because I'm going to use this one with the other two that I built in a diorama, I decided to cut open the Turret and Hull so that you can see inside. So that you can see everything , I used a multi-colored mini LED set. I've never added lighting to a model before. With the help of my son, I got a crash course in soldering. The LED's that I am using have two different colors in one "bulb". White for non-tactical, Red for tactical. The contro
    2 points
  3. This is the Eduard 1:72 Albatros D.Va, finished at Lt. Walter Wolf's Jasta 5 plane from June-August 1917. The kit is OK but it's 20 years old and is missing some details (tachometer and gun mounts in the cockpit, radiator inflow and outflow pipes, etc.). I dressed up the details a bit and then used Print Scale's decals sheets (separate ones for the individual markings and for the Bavarian pattern). If you've ever hung wallpaper, you have a leg up with that Bavarian pattern - not fun applying it across a compound curve, and the entire Albatros D.V fuselage is a compound curve! It's rigged with
    2 points
  4. 2 points
  5. I picked up this nice pair of tankers from Verlinden. What I really like about them is that they are not wearing leggings so they can work fine to be paired with Korean War or early Cold War tanks. Not sure what I’ll do with them yet.
    2 points
  6. And the painting begins. Today I airbrushed on a coat of gray Tamiya primer overall followed by Tamiya white primer on the areas that will be white. I’ll let it dry overnite, then start actual painting tomorrow.
    2 points
  7. Well today ended up being a case of going ahead three stages instead of the planned two. First up I added the metal tubing for the fuel tanks Then I had intended to add only the struts into place on the lower wing and fuselage, and I sure proper positioning using the top wing. But that wasn’t working as intended, so I ended up gluing the top wing in position as well. So the wings are in place, just a bit sooner than intended Next up, adding the landing gear, tail skid, and prop...
    1 point
  8. 1/72 Eduard Spitfire MK IXc Late Version –This is the fourth out of five aircraft. This Eduard kit is the ProfiPACK which includes photo etch parts for the cockpit. The cockpit was assembled and I used another PJ Production RAF pilot since the kit did not supply one. The photo etch instrument panel had three sections as well as the compass. The cockpit had separate walls so I was able to add some details and paint. The resin figure had the seat belts molded on. These were partially trimmed off and the photo etch seat belts were modified to match the molded seat belts and I had to make the buc
    1 point
  9. As they say, “Now for something completely different”. Typically, I build 1/48 scale aircraft. This will be a multi-kit build log of 1/72 scale aircraft. A client needs some aircraft to hang up for display. He sent me five aircraft to build for him. As noted before, these are all 1/72 scale. They will all be built mostly out of the box with the wheels up. One will have a different scheme, one will be a conversion, all will have pilots, and all five will be in this one build log. The aircraft being built and the order in which they will be built are: 1/72 Airfix Spitfire MK 1a – with
    1 point
  10. Mark, I personally think that Revell enamel paints are superior to Model Master I get better results both brush painting and airbrushing. Their only drawback by comparison is a more limited color selection. But you will find more German and RAL colors there than FS colors. But when combined with Humbrol you really get a wide color selection range.
    1 point
  11. Good to know Michael. I am also a bit annoyed by the tins, but if they keep the paint that long, I guess I have to adapt and overcome. I just hope the Revell paints are at least as good if not better, than the Model Master which is my go-to paint.
    1 point
  12. I got this kit on a raffle in a scale model show a few years ago, and after a quick inspection, I put it in a box and forget about it. The mold is only 64 years old! the quality is ugly by modern standards. Although the level of details is decent, you will find huge fitting issues, ejector marks everywhere so I recommend studying very well the parts before assembly if you are up to the challenge. Been saying that, I wanted to make something special from this kit, also different from everything else. I looked for similar tug boats in the tropic zone, like Puerto Rico, Cuba, and the Do
    1 point
  13. Well, here is a small update on some of the work I've done after recovering from that difficult week. Things seem to have gotten a bit better now. This is also all the work I got done yesterday and today. To start with, I assembled all the wheels for my 1/35th scale Patton that I am doing for the SoCal AMPS Group Build: Next I painted all the bare pieces that I'd installed earlier: Moving on, I decided that that tracks for the FV-432 needed to be finished, so I did the other side on the track jig. I then test fit the first run I did
    1 point
  14. Stunning work man! You work fast and masterfully! Brilliant job here. Now I want some Crown Royal....
    1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. Clearly, they all do not look the same. To accomplish the appearance in this photo, I would mask on each side of each rib, and paint in between, by hand, with Mr. Surfacer 500 or 1000. When dry, peel away the masking tape. Then you can gently, lightly sand to remove any raised edge caused by the meniscus effect of the paint next to the masking tape. You can also lightly sand to make it less prominent if desired. If you make a mistake, you can easily remove the entire new “rib” and redo it. I use this technique to restore raised panel lines. It is actually easy and very effective. Good luck. N
    1 point
  17. As the Brits say, I got the models "deckled" today........ Tamiya kit decals were used on the green one, while the gray one got markings from Aeromaster. I used hot water to help the Tamiya decals soften up and go down easier and they worked well. The Aeormaster decals needed more care in handling since they were thinner, but also went down well. I was actually quite impressed with how they snuggled down around the nose with a copius application of Champ decal solvent. The models have had all but the seats, props, and rear canopies added and have been flat coated so I can take
    1 point
  18. Check out an architectural supply. What you're looking for is something on the order of Chart-Pak or similar graphic arts tape. Graphic arts tape in varying widths is designed to follow curves, some of them fairly tight. Staples carries black Chart Pak as narrow as 1/16", but I used to see it in artist's supply shops as narrow as 1/64" which is almost too narrow to see. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  19. I think you're on the right track using a strip of "something" to replicate the sewn fabric seams......The picture may a bit misleading since it's a close-up shot and makes the tape you're using look even more out of scale; but I think since YOU sense it's "too much", it is too much! What you're doing works really well in 1/48 and larger, but is probably a bit heavy handed for 1/72. Michael's idea of using decal strips could work... provided you have a set of stripes that you know are on the thick side. However, the problem with using decals is that they're actually designed to blend in a
    1 point
  20. More progress... tail planes on... woohoo!
    1 point
  21. Steve: Also, I hadn't heard the thing about picks on the dash... you have to fill me in on that one... maybe I should be putting a pick on my dashboard? Y'all keep your picks on the dashboard so y'all can park in the handicap spaces! And just to even things out....You know the difference between a drummer and a pizza delivery guy? The pizza delivery guy can support his family! Glad you're here! Party on! Gil
    1 point
  22. Just wanted to show you my progress on the model. I’m going to display the engine on the dolly next to the finished plane. As usual would love to hear comments and suggestions. thanks, Stuart
    1 point
  23. Okay, I'll start by offering a warning that the following pics are gonna be large, so please have patience. I left them large to hopefully allow for more detail to be seen. Ever since I'd broken the 800-model milestone; I've been wanting to bring my entire collection of Braille Scale Armor down to our Hobby Day Hall and set it up for pictures and display. That would also allow me to add all the armor models I'd finished since the last time I'd set this up in Chattanooga. So, this past weekend, I had that opportunity and was able to keep the collection on display for three d
    1 point
  24. Good Day! I find bluprints which are like that R-1820 is interesting same (as base for 2800). But aerofred.com is closed. :-(
    1 point
  25. Answers to Gil: I did paint the propeller, but the tail trim was a decal, and a nightmare to apply. I had to touch up the edges but they were kind enough to make the red an exact match for MM insignia red.
    1 point
  26. I was just going off time frames as a color scheme guideline. The 74/75/76 scheme was was introduced and became standard early in 1941 on fighters from the factory, aside from those bound for North Africa. The A-3 was introduced in 1942, so it should come from the factory in 74/75/76. But like I said in my first post, JG-54, amongst other eastern front units, field applied the 70/71 scheme on their aircraft to better match the prevailing conditions in Russia. And yes, like you said, there was plenty of variety within the Luftwaffe for camouflage schemes away from the standards. I’m not too kee
    1 point
  27. I wanted to post progress photos of my build of the Tamiya 1/32 Mosquito. It would be great to read comments on how I can improve. Several photos were posted in the “techniques“ forum where i received very productive comments and i have put an aircraft weathering how-to book and some weathering products on my wishlist for Xmas. There is a specific issue that i wanted to discuss (although there is nothing i can do about it now). The wheel/tire assembly consisted of many pieces in order to mimic the flat spot at ground contact. I took great care in putting all of it together. However,
    1 point
  28. I agree wholeheartedly. There have been so many developments in the hobby and the kit industry since OOB was first established that it is now meaningless.
    1 point
  29. Over the years, I have seen a number of builders who did well at local contests, where they were the wunderkind, go to regionals and nationals only to get their...hat...handed to them. Insulted, and embarrassed they never come back. That is good because we don't want or need them. They spoil it for the rest of us. While an early win is a sure way to get them hooked---Las Vegas learned that long ago---it also creates unreasonable expectations. As Wall Street says---past performance is no guaranty of future performance. If you want to win, you have to play. I have entered many contests and
    1 point
  30. Thanks very much, I worked really hard on doing this one. I will definitely look into the decals you noted. I’m working on the F-16 next so that’s where i will focus my search. Stuart
    1 point
  31. No "Screaming Chicken" huh? LOL way nice and wet looking. All my car kits want to grow up to be like yours. The exhaust manifolds and engine details on this are outstanding.
    1 point
  32. This is the MiniArt 1/35th kit. If you are looking for a lot of nice detail, I recommend this kit. The bonnet louvres re molded open and the suspension springs are hollow. Dak
    1 point
  33. Here is the finished product sitting on a mirror base as suggested here. Difficulties still include the application of decals and the hand painting of very large surfaces. The thickness of my coatings are noticeably different. Question - how many of you apply the “hundreds” of tiny decals?
    1 point
  34. The M561 Gama Goat was seven years in development until production of the vehicle began in 1968. Its unique name was derived from the creator of its articulated joint, Roger Gamaunt, and its mountain goat-like climbing ability. It was unlike most other military off-road vehicles in that power could go to all 6 wheels of the vehicle, and its aforementioned articulated joint allowed 80˚ pitch and 60˚ roll ranges of the carrier module at the rear. Its excellent rough-terrain mobility was tempered somewhat by problems with tricky handling and maintenance, as well as it being rather noi
    1 point
  35. One step at a time. Today I finished up, cleaned up, and then painted the guns.
    1 point
  36. My price point is about $65. Somehow, I just can't get above that. To be candid, however, what I can get for $60 today is a world of quality better than what I could get for $40 10-15 years ago. I consider most "classic" kits, at $10-$20, to be too expensive. Since their quality is very inferior. I'll pay twice as much to have a kit that is enjoyable to build and which looks good.
    1 point
  37. DANG ! Quite a change from an Aurora kit. Nice work !
    1 point
  38. Hi. My last racer, Polish PZL P6, made from scratch in 1/32 scale, from National Air Racers in Cleveland 1931 More on the topic here: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/84035-pzl-p6-1931-from-scratch-scale-132/ Best regards, Marcin IPMS Polska
    1 point
  39. Today, it was back to work on the Camel. First priority, clean up the seam gap on top of the fuselage Add some strip styrene shims sand smooth and paint... I also test fitted the cowling and guns... more in a couple of days
    1 point
  40. Hey Mark. If you're talking about the raised grainy texture, that was molded into the manifold. The cast iron "look" was achieved by black basing the manifolds and then spraying a very light coat of aluminum Alclad over the black. Just enough to where there is light coverage. Too much and it won't come out right and it'll look "toy like".
    1 point
  41. Finally, after many years, this is finished. I can say that there were not wo pieces in the entire build that fit together easily. And Trumpeter found ways to take one part and make four out of it. I will say it is a huge plane and I do love Navy schemes. Finished with Squadrons decals Dave
    1 point
  42. Just finished the 1/48 High Planes edition of the Conquest Conversion F8F Bearcat that raced at Reno in the 60s. This is a limited run, low pressure injection kit. That means the plastic needs a lot of clean up, there's no locating pins, and the detail parts have to be sanded (or ground down) to get them to fit well. While it takes a lot more elbow grease to build such a kit, it captures the modifications to the racing Bearcat very well with the shorter wings, extended tail, small racing canopy, closed off wing intakes (filled in by the builder, that is), and P-51 prop spinner. The attrac
    1 point
  43. Okay, here is what i was able to pick up during my vacation to Florida. Some of this is stuff I got from my sister but most is what I got for myself. Then I also got something from my nephew that I'd been waiting for since August... Okay, here is what my sister got me: The clamps are actually small models you assemble and then can use... I like it! These are my scores that I got at John's Models in Pensacola. He is now the only hobby shop left in Northwest Florida since Bobe's Hobbies closed down. I was able to get these from John's:
    1 point
  44. Registering also gets you the swag bag which day-trippers don't get. Pin, decal, brochures, etc. You may be able to buy the decal sheet from a resale vendor after the show for an additional 10 to 20 bucks.
    1 point
  45. Hah! Preposterous. Nothing is too expensive... As long as my wife doesn't find out. Actually, I like the way Pete frames his answer around relativity. Between a large stash, lots of reference material and aftermarket "stuff", I'm sure I've spent "too much". But my hobbies before modeling were drag racing, muscle cars (primarily 67-68 Camaros) and building (and rebuilding) race engines, transmissions and rear ends...and all the associated tools and space. When kids started to come along (4), I had to change hobbies. So the expense of modeling in (mostly) 1/35th scale, relati
    1 point
  46. When I start a new model, I set up a file on the computer and begin a page in Word. Each time I work on the model, I take pictures with my mobile phone and then place them in this file. Every time I work on the model, I add some to the article about what I have done. ( This is far easier than trying to remember what I did several weeks in the past.) By the time I'm done, I have a full range of construction photos as well as an article that only needs some editing. I then recaption the phots to state what I am trying to illustrate. When I get it all tied up, I then send it to John via a servic
    1 point
  47. This is actually a war game miniature and you get three in one box. They say it's 1/72 but next to other 1/72 Sherman tank kits (I know the RAM was it's basis), it's huge! The suspension and tracks are one-piece assemblies, but with the exception of the guide horns not being correct, they are very nice. The gun mount is very simplified as well so I reworked the gun mount adding a gun sight and the control wheels and a gunner's seat. I also added an instrument panel for the driver. And by the way, you get a complete crew and the figures are pretty well done, if a bit plump, but I didn't use the
    1 point
  48. Work in progress. Eduard Bf-109 E4 "yellow 10" crash landed on Sept 28, 1940 near East Langdon, Kent. More figures will be added. Eduard 1/32nd kit with civilians from various sources. Figures are a little glossy because they have not been dull coated yet. Dak
    1 point
  49. I had some damage to my Monogram P-40 in my Pearl Harbor collection so I decided to Replace with Airfix P-40 in 1/48. This is one very nice Kit. Built mostly out of box except Gun Sight,Uschi Antenna and Eduard Seatbelt. Really enjoyed this kit and fit was mostly great with a few areas only needing a little sanding and dry fitting. Painted with Vallejo Air colors OD and Neutral Grey. Over-coated with Future for Gloss and decanted Dullcoat for final finish. Used some Tamiya weathering powders to "dirty her up". Kit decals were great and no problems. I used gloss
    1 point
  50. Hi All, Here is my Apollo 11 build. This was built from the vintage Monogram kit. The kit was terrible and I could only really use it for general shapes, most of this was recreated using metal and sheet styrene. I did lots of research and worked mainly from photos. I hope you enjoy! Rick
    1 point
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