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Posted

Ooh! Shiny!

Posted

Great job sir!

 

Finish looks great and the time frame to build it amazes me.

 

Keep them coming Gil. We all love your work and advice.

 

Bill

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the kind words guys! Since I was still in a "resin mood", I've started two more resin kits and posted them here. Those two will NOT be NMF! :smiley2:

 

GIL :smiley16:

Edited by ghodges
Posted

Excellent work!!

Re: the rear seat area. Don't you just hate it when all that detail is there and invisible? :smiley24: :D

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

And she's done!

014.jpg

 

013.jpg

 

007_1.jpg

 

010_1.jpg

 

012.jpg

 

018.jpg

 

019.jpg

 

10th build of the year for me, getting this one done in exactly one month since I finished my Tiger tank. Questions, comments, and critiques welcome!

 

GIL :smiley16:

Posted

Hey Gil

That build is absolutely out of this world. What a beautiful aircraft. I hope when I grow-up I build just like you . . . Lol

Seriously Gil what a beautiful build.

GOD BLESS YOU

Ray M.

a.k.a.schooner

IPMS #50943

Posted

Well this confirms it; I'm staying out of vac-formed models! You are truly the King building such magnificent masterpieces! I bow to the Master. :smiley32: :smiley32: :smiley32: :smiley32: :smiley32:

Posted

Keep up the good work Gil! It's a gem!

 

Mark

Posted

Magnificent piece.

 

Given that ALCLAD is supposedly more robust in terms of resisting damage from masking over it: How did that go? Did you take any special precautions there? Tamiya tape? Any required re-do?

Posted

No problems with either the Alclad or the AK metallic paints. They both worked as advertised. They are also both much more rugged than the Testors Metalizers, and I experienced no "rub-off" along the areas I handled the model. I DID, however, wear a rubber glove if I was going to handle the model for more than 5-10 minutes.

 

GIL :smiley16:

  • 1 month later...
Posted

RB-66C with the tail guns.

 

GIL :smiley16:

Hey Gil It made home safely you should have what I SENT YOU ON Monday .

RON

  • Like 1
Posted

Gil, Very nice model. I just tried Alclad for the first time. I applied it over Alclad primer. I let it dry 2-3 days. I used Tamiya masking tape. When I removed it a few minutes after applying the tape, the tape damaged the finish. Any ideas? Thanks. Nick

Posted

Your plastic wasn't spotless is my guess.
I have masked Alclad II within 30 mins and haven't had an issue, but when I do metallic finishes I first clean the plastic with 3 or 4 cleaners, using 409 last to remove anything possibly left behind by the others (I used to use Polly Scale plastic-prep until I ran out) then sand/polish the plastic until it is a mirror shine working my way from 1000 to 12000 grit aircraft Plexiglas polishing kits. I then prime the model with Alclad #101 Aluminum Lacquer (I use a lot, so I buy the 4oz cans/bottles). After than, here comes the colors. I have tinted 101 with Testors enamel form the 1/4oz bottles to great effect to get unique shades. I haven't tried tinting their non-metal colors yet, I just use Gunze after I metallize if needed.

Posted

James is probably right.

 

The only real knock I've heard about Alclad is that their quality control has been spotty, especially concerning their primers. I've seen several reports of the primer either not drying, or people not being able to mask over the metallics when used over their primer.

 

I've never used their primers, since it's not needed. My advice, after a thorough cleaning and polishing as James suggests, is to use a strong lacquer gloss coat. It doesn't need to be black, but the darker the color, the better the Alclad seems to cover and look. Of course if you're using their Polished Aluminum or Chrome, you have to use a gloss black enamel primer to get the chemical reaction needed for the "plating".

 

The bottom line is that your troubles point to an adhesion problem. Most of the time a lacquer or enamel primer will avoid that since they "bite" the surface more than acrylics. Since Alclad primers are acetone based like the metallics, then it's probably some leftover release agent or even finger oils on the surface.

 

GIL :smiley16:

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Gil, that is a beautiful RB-66! Makes me want to pull one of my many Collect-Aire kits off the shelf and give it a try. I will probably start smaller though! Very nice work.

 

Mike

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Gil, are you still able to source Floquil Old or Bright Silvers? I've got a couple bottles I guard like a hoarder and wondered if they're still available.

Beautiful work on the B-66! I have a couple Collect-Aire kits that I have to get around to building. You're inspiring me!

 

 

Frank

Posted

Thanks for the kind words Frank!

 

I'm in the same boat....with 1 bottle each of Old Silver and Bright Silver. Floquil is completely out of business, so to my knowledge the only chance is if you find some for sale in a vendors area, or perhaps in an estate sale. I sure would love to find some Platinum Mist!

 

GIL :smiley16:

Posted

Gil, Very nice model. I just tried Alclad for the first time. I applied it over Alclad primer. I let it dry 2-3 days. I used Tamiya masking tape. When I removed it a few minutes after applying the tape, the tape damaged the finish. Any ideas? Thanks. Nick

Nick:

 

I got away from there primer. I started using Tamiya Gloss black acrylic thinned with lacquer thinner. You can get it nice and glossy, it dries quick and has better grip than the AlClad primer. Plus, you can polish it smooth and it accepts hte Alclad well. Another chopice is to decant Tamiya Gloss Silver out of the rattle can and use it as a base. Can be super polished and masked too.

 

Dave

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Sorry Bob, but as stated above, it was sold and I no longer have it. Besides, when I fly I almost never carry models with me, and certainly not one as big as that one. Thanks for the very kind sentiment though!

 

GIL :smiley16:

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