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Eaglecash867

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Eaglecash867 last won the day on May 29 2018

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About Eaglecash867

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    Assembler

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  • FirstName
    John
  • LastName
    Smith
  • City
    Denver
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    CO
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  1. It was about 2 years ago that I got the kit, and it was probably several months after getting it that I even opened the box. That part is on me, I get that. That being said, I could certainly forgive a defect here and there, but every part in that kit was like that. That doesn't give me a good impression when such a large quality control escape happens like that. . I ended up buying resin burner cans for the Mud Hen from Two Mikes that I absolutely love (unfortunately he doesn't make exhaust tubes). I bought those last summer, and Mike actually delayed production of my set because of the
  2. I've gotta weigh in on this subject. I purchased some of the GT Resin seamless exhausts for my Mud Hen, and with that money wasted, I think using the two piece kit exhausts is going to look acceptable. The GT Resin ones are horrible quality. Full of all kinds of pits and bubbles, and sections that just didn't seem to conform well to the mold they were poured into. Generally, they look like something I could have made myself on a first attempt...certainly not worth the "professional product" pricetag. Hopefully your experience will be better than mine. I didn't even get around to working
  3. Not sure what scale you're wanting those in, but Wolfpack makes some 1/72 resin seats for the F-5E/F models. Their products so far have been extremely high quality. I bought one of their F-8 J-57 exhausts for a 1/48 F-102A. It looks fantastic, is seamless, and fit right into my F-102A with minimal modification. I'm thinking their seats are probably also going to be made to the same high standards. http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/wpd72082.htm
  4. Thanks Gil! Finally getting some modeling time again, but its gonna be sparse for a while. I had to trim back my ambition a little bit and just focus on the Mud Hen for a while. Still working on putting all of the switches into the side consoles, but the bucket, PE pedals, and pilot and WSO panels are finished. Just ordered my styrene strips from Evergreen for scratch-building the throttle levers. I think that's going to be fairly easy to get right, since I have a HOTAS Warthog right here, and the throttle in the A-10C is the same as the F-15E.
  5. Hi Andrea, The tail caps are FS33538, and the helmets are FS13538.
  6. No paint pulling problems at all. You don't have to push down on it very hard to get it to stay put, and if you roll it off it separates very cleanly. Never tried the UHU stuff though, so I can't be certain that it has the same properties as the BluTack. It made a beautiful Euro I camo pattern on the tail of the CAS F-16 I'm building, with smooth, feathered edges. Damage to the paint came later when I tried applying home-made decals for the first time which had too much varnish on them and made a sticky mess on the nicely painted surface when I hit them with MicroSol. GRRRR!!! Oh well...
  7. Beautiful job! Not sure if you've worked with the stuff, but BluTack works really well as a camo pattern mask too. Its easier to shape and I find it stays exactly where you want it better than Silly Putty, without requiring as much pressure to make it stick. When you remove it, you just start at one corner and roll it off.
  8. Finally got all the tiny handles attached to the Mud Hen panel, so it looks like I've got a good build technique to continue with on the other projects. I opted to ditch the Tamiya decals for the MPCDs, since they look a little cheesy, and just went with MPCDs that look like they're turned off. Used a layered approach with Alclad gold on the backs, and layers of red and green transparent paint on the front to give them the kind of gold/metallic/brown look they actually have when off. Also got the grey viper's engine bay bulkhead and ADG painted and ready to attach to the engine bay.
  9. Hi Mark, As far as I know, most of the newer compressors have a 1/8" BSP male fitting, and the Paasche hose has a 1/4" BSP female. Your airbrush itself, if its like my Paasche H model, should have an 1/8" BSP male fitting on it. What I ended up doing with mine was to put the old Paasche hose in storage and get a Master Airbrush quick disconnect fitting for the airbrush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MKGOUM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Then you just get a new airbrush hose with 1/8" BSP female fittings on both ends. Having a quick disconnect mounted dire
  10. Thanks for the comments guys! WHEW...its been a rough couple of months which has curtailed my modeling time quite a bit, but I did manage to get some progress done on my Vipers. It took a lot of experimentation with different techniques for dealing with what is probably the biggest pain for most jet modelers...the intake tunnels. I ended up making my own sanding tools for getting the seams on the insides down to a tolerable level. I took a chunk of a wire coat hanger and wrapped the loop part of some low-profile velcro around it...and then cut strips of micromesh sanding sheets and put the
  11. Nice work as always Gil! Just one suggestion. If you're ever planning on making a diorama with it, just be sure to put the huge puddle of jet fuel underneath it to give it that final touch of realism. :smiley2: Eagle
  12. Hi Martin, Have Glass 5 Vipers are also stationed with the 148th FW in Minnesota, 169th FW in South Carolina, and 85th TES at Eglin AFB, Florida They're the overall FS36170 color as far as I know. The radome is FS36118, which is the usual radome paint. They can't use the same radar absorbing paint on the radome, or most other conventional paints, due to the metallic components in most paints...it'll make the radar very unhappy. Haven't seen one up close and personal yet, but I'm told the new paint doesn't hold up very well and is constantly flaking off and needing attention. A lot
  13. There's some good info in this thread http://forum.ipmsusa3.org/index.php?/topic/18295-re-sizing-images-decals/ The Tactical Air Command shield on the acetate test sheet in my post there was inserted into my drawing of the tail code and serial number using the "insert reference drawing" in the Draftsight program I link there. You can print in different scales once you get the size right. Two great things about that program. 1) Its vector-based, so you don't get jagged, pixelated printouts like you do with low-cost or free photo editors. 2) ITS FREE! :D
  14. Really nice work! Nice to see the old Spectre getting some recognition. :D
  15. Getting more modelling time again, and the time needed for things to cure and so forth was just seeming like a lot of wasted space in a project. So, I've gotten going on 3, all 1/32 scale. I usually start with cockpits first, but I just couldn't resist getting the tails going first on the two Vipers. I was inspired by some pics of the 50 Years of YGBSM Viper scheme on the Shaw AFB web-site, and actually found the full decal set for 1/32 scale from Two Bobs. Couldn't wait to get the tail going, because the decals are just so cool. I had to do some modifcations to make it accurate. Remo
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