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ghodges

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. Holy cow! That's impressive and there's not even a model there yet! Looks like a well conceived "scene" and your figure painting is outstanding. The only item that jumped out at first glance is the side arm on the officer not in a flight suit. Looking forward to more on this one! GIL
  2. Great looking start, though those pe belts sticking up and out into thin air look odd! GIL
  3. ghodges

    F9F-5P Progress

    Yep, a little filler, or even a strip of plastic in that front gap and you'll almost forget it was ever there. Way to persevere! By the way, in the future if you're updating a project (like this one), you can simply post the new pics and info at the bottom of your original post and it will jump back up to the top of the topics when you post it. That saves having to "add" a new post when you do an "update". Hope this helps! GIL
  4. Noel: to answer your question, the IPMS Nats is judged on Friday evenings starting about 7pm. Thus, they have no time constraints on getting done for the public since the room is not due to open until the next morning. There have been times when the judges weren't done til after midnight and the final Grand Award winner wasn't picked until close to 2am, but that's rare now. Generally, they're all done by midnight. The ONLY time constraint I'm aware of is occasionally the VENUE will have a "lights out" policy for the entire convention center of midnight, and THAT does cause some headaches; but as mentioned it is VERY rare. By the way, many years ago judging was on Saturday morning and there was a "rush" to get done so that the people would have enough viewing time on Saturday afternoon. That's why judging was moved to Friday night, and it's worked very well; though it completely eliminates the ability for anyone to come and enter anything on Saturday. And Rusty, it IS possible to be overly zealous as a moderator. It's one thing if one member insults another directly by labeling them as deceitful, even if done with flowery language. But, making a point, even with a bit of sarcasm, is not entirely out of place. It's tougher to discern intent on a forum because there's no voice inflection, but I think a moderator can simply question a statement before accusing or warning someone about it. Stepping in TOO often can kill an ability to have a flowing dialog, which is the purpose of a forum like this! GIL
  5. A few things..... 1) The video does seem a bit more "relaxed" in its presentation after your tweaking, but the pace is still good. 2) While it tells of an exhaustive step-by-step process in building the kit, you don't mention whether it includes any other references on the C-46 itself; such as walk around pics. Does it? The reason I ask is because I have the 1/48 Combat vac kit. While I could use the detail parts as good building "references" for my own build, having reference pics would make it more usable for my purposes. So, my point is that extra references for any subject you do may make an E-book desirable to people with other kits than the specific one you do. 3) As to how to limit what subjects you pick to do, I wouldn't limit it to what you can buy only in shops and on-line. Many modelers have extensive stashes and many models not available in stores. I think the criteria is if it's a popular kit of a popular subject that you know a lot of modelers have and build. I think it also applies to those that have a rep for being a bit more on the "difficult" side; such as the 1/48 Monogram medium bombers. Many modelers have them, many of those kits have not been replaced with newer editions, and an E-book with reference pics that also shows where the problems are and how to either avoid them and/or overcome them would be desirable. GIL
  6. Sweet! That sculpt really captures his upbeat/laid back attitude. Is that shirt real, or painted? I cannot tell from the pics! Greta looking build and a nice homage....which reminds me.... GIL
  7. Very well produced! I too concur that adding 2-3 seconds more per pic will make for a more relaxing "browse" for the captions. I didn't have trouble keeping up, but was prepared by reading Ed's suggestion beforehand. Very pleasant music too, by the way! GIL
  8. That's a terrific looking Tweety! Great job on the SEA camo too; did you free-hand it or use masks? Congrats on a sweet looking build! GIL
  9. Tough way to build it, but I have no doubt you'll salvage it and we'll never be able to tell the difference. As I recall on the Monogram Panthers, it's the intakes that determine the order of the wing assembly. I believe I altered the construction sequence with the intakes (finagled them somehow) so I could put them in the wings and then add the entire assembly later on; which allowed me to work them and blend them into the wings easier. If I remember, all you need to do is saw off those protrusions at the rear of the wing roots and you can slip the entire wing in place. Looking forward to seeing you overcome this setback! GIL
  10. Oddly......many times the judges will move a model thinking they are doing the builder a "favor". This most often happens when a model is in a gray area of definition; like a 1/32 biplane, that's a "primarily rigged a/c" but also a "1/32 prop". Some judges will move it to the "less" populated category thinking: "it fits in there too and has better odds at winning with less models to compete against". A figure diorama with a vehicle or two on the base might just be moved to the vehicle diorama category for that reason..... I've never known a head judge, or a judge tasked with making sure things are in the "right" category to be capricious or arbitrary. They take that job very seriously. The people doing it generally have WAY more contest experience than the builders plopping stuff down on the tables (that's how they get the job of head judge/and or model mover; experience!). Also, in almost all cases, those moving models DO try to get the attention of the builder to notify them, or even (when time allows) to ask THEM to move it. In my many years of experience, the guys wandering around in the rooms pay little to no attention to announcements! Don't get me wrong...judges can make mistakes. The new rules for what turns a "display on a base" into a "vignette" or "diorama" has really muddied up the waters. Builders aren't always sure anymore, and judges are still learning EXACTLY how strict or lenient their head judge is about them. But it's usually the builder who thinks he's entering one thing, but has left it open to be seen and interpreted as something else. Or, you can do what we've done at JAXCON: got to GSB! There are NO categories, only Display Zones. So as long as an airplane or a car is among the other airplanes or cars, it's in the right place! And even if it's not....as long as the judges see it and judge it, no harm/no foul! GIL
  11. Welcome David! Glad to have you here with us! I think you'll find modeling it like riding a bicycle.....sure, you'll lose your balance and scrape a knee as you regain your balance; but you'll be popping wheelies in no time! Be sure to post your work as you start getting models built again! GIL
  12. That close to 60yr old kit is about as classic as they come, and you shined it up spectacularly! I'm with you....I've built no less than 6 biplanes and triplanes over the last 2yrs, most of them the newer releases from Eduard and Rodan. Their detailing is nicer, but Aurora beats them hands down when it comes to logical, easy assembly! Taking your route, with a little creative scratchbuilding and elbow grease, is just as good; as your beautiful result shows! Thanks for sharing! GIL
  13. Here's some of the Special Awards and the Ace of Aces awards..... Hope you can make it to the show! GIL
  14. That's a lot of swag Duke! I managed to pick up one of my "holy grail" kits last week...The resin CollectAire 1/48 FH-1 Phantom. Although I didn't get a bargain, the price was surprisingly reasonable and near the original cost; which was nice since it's l-o-n-g out of production, and the ONLY one in 1/48 (except for an even more obscure and impossible to find vac). It's nicely molded with hollow castings for the fuselage and wings, and also has the option of folding the wings. This one may get built for the 'Nooga Nats! GIL
  15. Finally finished the Hasagawa F-16C kit.....added a resin seat and resin exhaust. I also had to modify a couple of pylons for the Harms, and actually make the Harms from spare box Shrikes since I'd robbed the Harms and AAMRAMS for my Growler build last year. That's also why it has two sets of sidewinders....the markings are an aftermarket set. The kit itself is quite nicely detailed and fits well. It's essentially their "A" Viper kit with some extra sprues that contain the "C" parts. So now I have two Vipers in my collection spanning from its inception until now after having none for the entire career of the real ones! Comments, questions, and critiques welcome, as always! GIL
  16. Very cool markings and a great looking build! GIL
  17. Glad to have you here Paul! I too enjoy the build the most; though I think we're outnumbered by those who like the painting or the "finishing" stages more. That's some very fine work you posted. You look to have a real eye for subtle weathering and sharp detail painting. Looking forward to seeing more of your work here! GIL
  18. It's tough to make a criticism of a Nats convention hotel here in the USA without coming off as a bit whiny. We're simply at the mercy of the venue the host chooses to use. They, on the other hand are at the mercy of the "calculus" Nick describes in balancing costs vs. what we cheap model building convention goers are willing to pay (and we make Scotts look like drunken sailors! !) And, the E-board, who ultimately decides which host gets to throw the Nats is at the mercy of who bids, IF more than one host does for any particular year.... Are some hotels and "chains" better than others? Sure...and even within certain chains some franchise owners are better than others, so that's why one Marriott might not measure up to another. It's tough to beat Embassy Suites...I mean- FREE HAPPY HOUR and FREE BREAKFAST!?? But not every city/host has one of those available. And, some cities have great convention centers but NO connecting hotels, meaning we have to walk more than we want. And parking? Heck, we've been VERY fortunate for the most part so far....I paid $65+/day in downtown Philly this last summer (off site too)! I cannot recall any convention approaching that (yet). Want to talk Nats hotels? How about the MOTEL used in DC in the 80's? How about the Phoenix show hotel where we had to walk 3 blocks in 100+degrees to get to the convention center (but there were nude statues to cavort on along the way....)? Or the hotel (Oklahoma?) where the second floor on one side of the main lobby didn't connect to the 2nd floor on the OTHER side of the lobby (very sad story behind that one actually)? Or the downtown Miami hotel where you might not want to linger in the parking lot or tour the neighborhood it was in? Or the St. Louis hotel that had banquet rooms SO small that many of us had to watch the awards via closed circuit TV? And those are just MY experiences..... The solution is to simply reserve and stay where it suits you. While most modelers actually scrimp and save a few bucks by opting for a local motel and NOT staying at the convention hotel; you can always book yourself into a hotel with ALL the amenities you're seeking, even if it costs a few bucks more per night. Don't like walking? Find a cheaper motel and use the difference for cab fare back and forth. In other words, MAKE it work out so you get what you want or need when it's not handed to you. The bottom line is that every host does the best they can to give the best "bang for the buck". Some hosts are simply better off when it comes to a hotel chain and convention center combo. Others have to take what they can and make the best of it. I've never know ANY of them to not try to give us the best that they can for the price range we've all become accustomed to expect for a Nats. We're accustomed to "rock bottom" prices and we've actually been spoiled more often than not for those low prices! And as for working a "deal" with a chain.....that's been tried and tried. The sad truth is that IPMSUSA is not worth their time and effort, especially when they look at all of the other business conventions that use more room nights and less floor space than we do. We come with some baggage (space needs) that most conventions our size don't; and we just cannot compare or compete with the others. And then there's the fact we tip lousy.......so do NOT look for us to work any deal with anyone nationally anytime soon. I have to agree that in the end, it's the SHOW that sticks in my mind more than any hotel room much more often than not. And, even the shows with less than ideal hotels often seem to become funny stories and flavorful backdrops to those shows where we had to be inconvenienced a bit. GIL
  19. Looks great to me, and that tank does not look very odd hanging there. Great build! GIL
  20. Thanks for the very kind words folks! I used the black Tamiya Accent wash on the gear and in the gear bays. I applied as sparingly as possible and let it run around the details. However, all of the panel lines on the model are drawn on in pencil, since the kit's raised panel lines were mostly sanded away while building. GIL
  21. If you feel the need to make a "hyper-accurate" P-51, then you MAY feel you need to putty lines on the wing. However, there's also a caveat to that line of thought.... I've also read that between depot paint work, the removal of one scheme for the application of another, and general wear and tear (wearing from missions), that the putty generally disappeared. In other words, if you were to do a plane with a significant number of missions under its belt, it would LOOK like the wing hadn't been puttied and sanded. Use your own judgement.... To answer your question more precisely....my understanding is that the only lines that showed when it left the factory were the lines for the ammo bay doors, as well as the divisions between the flaps and ailerons. Hopefully there'll be a better "expert" along soon to give you a more definitive answer. GIL
  22. In a word: STUPENDOUS! Thanks for the further explanation on your tinting. I have problems with it pooling at the edges and not being perfectly even across the entire part. Are you Airbrushing it, brushing it on, or dipping it? Nice pics too by the way...they really make all those little details you added pop out! Congrats, and thanks for letting us watch you work your magic! GIL
  23. Hi Rich! I'm sort of in the same boat as you, wondering EXACTLY how to use the Tamiya Panel Line Accent stuff. I've had it and been using it for a while now, with a little success and quite a few disappointments. It flows well and is VERY good for "pin washes" and accenting panel lines and raised lines on landing gear legs (etc.). As the videos above show, just touch it to a line and it flows very well. I do recommend using a gloss coat before hand. It makes wiping off slop easier....which brings me to the problems.... When trying to use it as a "wash" over a broad area, I've had trouble removing it. I've tried water and I've tried Tamiya thinner. It seems it either doesn't come off, or as I scrub it starts to remove the gloss coat AND the paint below! And this is over a LACQUER clear gloss and enamel paints! 😧 After watching a few videos, I saw that a couple of people used "lighter fluid" (Naptha) to thin it (not really needed) and/or remove it. I haven't tried that yet.... Anyway, I'm afraid to try to use it as a "broad wash" (as like when you want to do an entire wing to get into the rivets as well as the lines), and I'm going to try some Velejo wash instead for that. There's lots of different kinds of washes out there to choose from. If you want a PERFECTLY safe wash, grind up some pastel chalk (VERY finely) and mix it with water and a couple of drops of liquid dish washing soap. It WILL wipe off easily with plain water; you just have to be careful you don't remove it from where you want it. BUT, the good news is: no staining and any sloppy mistakes can be completely erased. And, if you do remove too much...just apply more and try again. Also, it needs to be sealed with another clear coat when done. Hope this helps....My best advice based on my experience with the Tamiya Accent stuff is that i'st great for accenting things, but don't brush it over broad areas. Perhaps someone with more experience will post soon and tell us both how to safely remove the excess completely! GIL
  24. Hi Chris! Welcome! Kick off your shoes, get comfy and make yourself at home. Feel free to post pics of whatever you build in the topics below, as we LOVE looking at models! Cheers! Gil
  25. Built this from the OLD 1975 Tamiya F-16A kit (with the left/right fuselage halves). Good kit for its age, OOTB except for the main gear door actuators. Since the kit is closest to being a prototype, I did the "cloud scheme" of the 2nd one built. This is the first F-16 I've ever built in spite of several in the stash for decades. I also have "C" almost done. Pics of it soon! GIL
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