ghodges

I live in FLA and build in my garage year-round. Humidity is a problem 75% of the year. I've used water traps...but they're only partially successful in high humidity environments. The REAL solution is to switch to a tank of CO2. A 3ft high tank will allow you to paint 10-15 1/48 single engine prop models over a year, including the CO2 used to clean the brush. It's silent, eliminates any worries about moisture in your system, and you can exactly set the pressure to your airbrush. The down side? You CAN run out! But, there's plenty of warning as to when you're getting low, so if you run out, yo

Welcome William! Settle in and make yourself at home. Let us know if we can help in any way! Gil

HOLY COW! THAT is impressive as all get out! That last picture needs to be offered as "wallpaper" for model builders! As impressive as the lighting is, I have to also say that the choice of an overall matte finish really adds to the "cleanness" of the overall look. I like the look , and it was probably just as authentic after a month or two at sea anyway. I suggest wearing thick shirts at shows because you can expect a good number of pats on the back when folks see it! Thanks for sharing! Gil

Those are some great looking builds! A couple of questions: How did you accent the panel lines on the 102, and whose kits are those deck tractors? Excellent work! Gil

Hey Duke! Guess what I JUST ran out of yesterday......MM gloss black enamel..... Guess I should have hung onto a couple of those "classic black" bottles....Oh well! Gil

"Woof! What a lot of sanding!" You don't know the half of it Duke! Gil

Yup! Lotsa progress! Looking good! GIL

Adding my praises to the rest! Good looking addition to your collection and I'd have never even thought you had the least problem at the end by the results! Gil

Robin: your story I think is VERY typical for a lot of members..especially the "local drama" stories. IPMSUSA may have had some drama, but not nearly as often or on the level of local clubs. I've been a member since '77, and have been extremely blessed to have been a member of 2 clubs with almost NO drama...the Rickenbackers in Columbus and IPMS First Coast here in Jax. But, having attended many, many local shows and regional contests, and spoken to hundreds of other "local" members; their stories are legion about the "drama" in their clubs. Many clubs either fail, or split off due to those in

Simply stunning! Gil

Been slowed down lately Mark....working on this..... Gil

Pretty big group already! Gil

Adding my thanks to the San Marcos team and the Eboard for working together to come to the best outcome that this crazy year can give us at this point in time. Looking forward to 2023! Gil

The Nats has been cancelled, below is the official email I just got... The following is a joint announcement from the San Marcos 2020 Convention Leadership team and the IPMS USA Executive Board. We jointly appreciate all the feedback we received regarding this year‘s convention. We’ve taken your comments and concerns into careful consideration, while maintaining an ongoing dialogue and negotiation with the Embassy Suites convention center in San Marcos. These negotiations have been proceeding carefully due to the significant financial exposure that IPMS would be subject

Most NMF are smooth enough to decal over directly. The problem I have is that most clear overcoats will alter the NMF look, basically nullifying all the work you've been doing! You might want to put some Alclad on something as a "test", overcoat it with the gloss, and see if you like it before doing it on the model. Gil

Kevin....I've been as vocal a critic of past Eboards as anyone (and been fired as an RC for it!), but I think you're not giving them any credit and asking for something they really cannot provide at this time. First of all, WHAT can they say that has not been said here? The situation is in flux, data and info is changing week to week, if not day to day, and yet it sounds like you want to have them give some sort of "definite" statement. The same goes for the San Marcos hosts, who HAVE stated that they are in constant touch with the hotel and the local county officials and do make periodic

While I can see your tape problem, it looks like overall you're getting the "look" you're shooting for. I always use the lowest tack tape I can when masking over any NMF, and also remove it ASAP after painting so that the adhesive has the very least time to interact with the surface. The "polished" types of Alclad are much more susceptible to tape marring than the regular Aluminum shades, and I usually also try to reduce tape tackiness by sticking it on my forehead (applies skin oil) and then pulling it through my fingers (removes excess skin oil) before applying it. Hope this helps! Looking f

Hi Gary, and Welcome! Glad to have you here with us. Settle in and make yourself at home. Let us know if we can help in any way. Gil

No David.....NO one "wins"....and NO ONE is in denial. It's simply a matter that this is still the USA, and you cannot make DEMANDS on others in order to make YOU feel safer. If you are SO concerned, as you sincerely seem to be, then you should not attend. With your point of view, and sincere concerns, I do not see how the convention planners could EVER take enough precautions or make enough changes to make you feel completely safe, and that deosn't even include the travel "risks" you'll have to deal with coming and going. And seriously...are you actually trying to compare the size o

Ok...I've held off this far.....but this "DEMAND to wear masks" is going too far. Yes, it IS a BAD idea! The data and the consequences of exposure is at BEST undecipherable at this time. There IS a spike in CV-19's spread....BUT, that doesn't mean more people will actually get sick, need hospitalization, or die. In fact, that has NOT been the case despite the headlines....SO far. A month from now will tell us more...... The data on what works and what doesn't to prevent its spread is also inconclusive, with medical "experts" divided pretty evenly on do/don't wear masks, do/don't quar

That's one fugly helicopter....but a great looking build of it! Thanks for sharing! Gil

I think you have only 3 choices in 1/32....Fly Models, PCM (Pacific Coast Models), and Revell. Fly Models is the newest 1/32 Hurricane, and most likely the best....BUT....you need to define Mk. I.....because IF you mean a very early Mk.I with the rag (fabric) wings and 2 bladed prop, then the PCM kit might be the way to go. For BoB, you can get away with a Mk.I or early Mk.II, which means the old Revell kit can also suffice IF you're not a stickler for precise accuracy. If you Google search any of the above manufacturers for the kit reviews you can then decide which one you think will giv

There ARE some warts, particularly in the "olden" days of the 70s and 80s, when IPMS had gotten just big enough to start having problems. But one thing you'll need to do is to sort through the apocryphal "stories" to find what was the truth behind them. I do know a couple good yarns, and believe I know most of the "truth " behind them, but then just what are you looking for? Colorful anecdotes, or simple data with names, facts and figures? Some of those names have passed....but many of them are still around, AND are still IPMS members! Gil

Anthony: I don't think your problem has anything to do with your water at home....decals fall apart basically because the very thin clear coat that they're printed on is either too thin to be handled (bad manufacturing batch) or it may have simply gotten old and brittle. I've had this problem, particularly with older decals, and the solutions suggested by Nick (if you want to try to save THAT sheet) are an easy way to do that. The only thing I'd add IF you use a clear gloss coat is to apply them between 4hrs and 12hrs after you overcoat the decal sheet. That gives the gloss enough time to

Duke, check your emails! Gil