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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. Superb cockpit detail painting and that seat really looks the part! Looking forward to seeing more of this! Gil
  2. I "pm"ed you Mike with my email address. I'm in Jacksonville and perhaps close enough to help. Gil
  3. "What are the advantages and disadvantages to entering in the out of box categories? " Cameron: the short answer is NOT MUCH....anymore. The OOTB categories were invented decades ago to give people who didn't scratchbuild details a place to compete without having to go against models with those extra details. Those were the days BEFORE "aftermarket" (PE parts, resin cast parts, and now printed parts); when the model builder had to build all of the details in a cockpit or wheel well. Some builders couldn't do those things, and others didn't want to put that much time into a build, but felt they were at a severe disadvantage having to compete against the "honchos" that did those things. That perception was generally wrong to start, as it's ALWAYS been the basics that determine the outcome 95%+ of the time, no matter how well detailed something is. BUT, perception is reality as they say, so OOTB categories were put in place to make competitors feel they had more of a chance on a more level field against people who built like they did (OOTB). The problem today, is that not only is there a plethora of aftermarket that allows a less experienced builder to put a better detailed model on the table, but many of the kits now come with PE and resin parts IN the box, and thus are technically legal for an OOTB build. So, it NOW depends on the kit you choose, as older kits with less detail are (seemingly) at a disadvantage, even in the OOTB category, IF you still carry the perception that the detailing is more than a tie-breaker! So where does OOTB make a true difference? In my opinion in the BIG categories, like 1/48 and 1/72 WWII prop and in jets. This is where you WILL, at almost every Nats contest, run into someone's "labor of love" that they took 1-2yrs to build and put everything into. If you want to avoid ever having to end up in a category against such a build, then OOTB will keep them away from you. Otherwise, even the OOTB builds aren't plain or simple anymore. The BOTTOM LINE, no matter the category, is for you to nail the BASICS! If you haven't ever judged, you may find it hard to believe how LITTLE detailing and/or accuracy matter, because accurate and well detailed builds are knocked out by crooked landing gear, misaligned tail planes, poor seam work, silvered decals, rough/sloppy paint finishes, and/or sloppy clear parts. IPMS judges on craftsmanship, not knowledge (detailing and accuracy). NO ONE (and no judge) can know enough to be 100% sure of what details are right or just how accurate a subject is, due to any number of variables and very simply "the exception to the rule" that there always seems to be (yes, there was a pink sub!). Thus, we judge how well built something is, because we can judge the differences in craftsmanship applied to a build, no matter what category it ends up in. And in my opinion, since we DO judge that way, the hypothetical category is a complete waste of time....it's a model on the table and can be judged on the craftsmanship applied to the construction and finish without concern as to whether it was ever produced in the real world. "Hypothetical" could be a tie-breaking determiner, if ALL else was equal (and many judges will say that NEVER happens) and you had to decide; and in which case the "documented" model would win versus the "what-if". Hope this helps! Gil
  4. Not sure which of two possible areas you want info on.....I'm no expert, but I believe the interior of the actual "intake" scoop on the bottom is natural metal. However, the interior fuselage area where the actual boxy radiator sits is usually chromate yellow primer, and some of that is visible from the rear underside. Hope this helps! Gil
  5. Clean, sharp looking build! The canopy framing looks especially nice. Congrats! Gil
  6. I agree with the questioning of some of their subject choices within what was a very limited market to begin with, compounded by tooling multiple versions of those esoteric choices. They never catered to my scale interests, but i was hoping they'd succeed and grow so that perhaps they might in the future. Now I just hope that those craftsman that tooled their molds will find good work elsewhere plying their skills to continue to make modelers somewhere happy! Gil
  7. WOWZERS....those are really problematic! For most of those I'd actually opt to use very thin sheet plastic (or even strips/widths of tape) as covers to "resurface" and cover them up instead of filling and sanding. For others where you can't cover the entire surface (like those inner gear doors), I'd see if any of the Waldron punches match up, and of so, punch out a disc and use it to fill the mark. You could then use a pin to make some "rivets" around them and make them look like removable service covers; overall probably less work and faster then the tedium of trying to sand them smooth in such tight quarters. At any rate, they are a true eyesore! Gil
  8. Great looking 109 James! Those American marking really add a splash of color not normally seen. Thanks for posting! Gil
  9. The more I look the more there is to like! The diorama is very basic but also very well composed. The extra work and skills you apply are evident in the close up pics, and your figures (which you didn't even mention) are very well done too. Thanks for sharing this gem with us! Gil
  10. ghodges

    Phil S

    Welcome back Phil! Gloss painting cars is my Kryptonite! Your advice will be very welcome by many! Settle in, make yourself at home, and have fun! Gil
  11. Excellent update Duke! Glad to see you in the saddle and riding pretty hard! As for me....I'm working on ONE....granted, it's a handful, but still just ONE! Gil
  12. Maruda: try this link for starters....lots of detail pics and some with open panels.... https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=AwrCxGEto7VethUAugUnnIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTByMjB0aG5zBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzYw--?p=F-105+walkaround+photos&fr=yhs-mozilla-100&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-100 And here's an F-105G walkaround...though no open panels... http://www.primeportal.net/hangar/weichao_chen2/f-105g_63-8320/index.php?Page=2 And lastly...a link to built F-105G models where you may find some inspiration.... https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=AwrC3TTIpLVeDioAjwInnIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTByMjB0aG5zBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzYw--?p=F-105G+model+images&fr=yhs-mozilla-100&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-100 Hope this helps! Gil
  13. ghodges

    Tamiya P-51D WIP

    Looks sharp to me! My only suggestion would be that after you matte everything, go back and add a drop of Future or Micro-Clear to each of the dials on the main panel. Staying tuned for more! Gil
  14. Looking good! Those pe parts really step it up a notch too! Gil
  15. Great looking build! I'm an "all 3 dead" fan, and particularly like the older, more colorful gray and white schemes. Posing the speed brakes open adds a splash more color too. Congrats! Gil
  16. Very sharp detail painting, and that main panel rocks! You're off to yet another great start! looking forward to more! Gil
  17. I have to agree overall with Ralph's very succinct analysis. Where it REALLY affects people is at the local level....whether you have a local shop left, or the Hobby Lobby, or Michaels, or some other store that does carry commonly available hobby paint. The casual model builder, who happen to be the VAST majority of model buyers and builders are going to struggle to find replacements. They won't know where to turn to to get paints (if not locally), nor what choices they have. This goes for paint, glues, and all of those items that Ralph listed as easily replaceable for US, the more serious, informed group of builders. I don't see it having much impact on ourselves...but it does not bode well for the future growth of plastic modeling in general. Gil
  18. IF it's held, I plan on attending. I've been going to the Nats whenever I could afford to and get off from work since 1978. That's not going to change. I do expect, even under the best of circumstances, a much smaller Nats. Even without considering the health issues, many people's finances have been thrown for a loop due to all of the shut downs. They simply will not be able to afford to attend. Also, if the airlines do get back to more normal schedules, it'll still be tough for many to afford to fly, IF they can find a flight on the still limited flight schedules. The only up side is that gas is much cheaper and it's less costly to drive in (as I plan to). Perhaps this will make for a "more intimate" Nats? One where with fewer models you feel like you may actually have time to see them all? One that feels like you're not fighting a tidal flow trying to get down an aisle in the model room or vendors room? And perhaps one with a little more appreciation for the event itself and the people you get to see there only once a year! One thing that will have to be addressed is HOW do you judge AND keep social distancing? The rest of the time it's pretty easy to keep a bit of distance between each other, but it'll be tough on judging teams! Will it lose money? Perhaps......and not that we want that to happen....but IPMS can get past such a thing easier now than in past times. But it also means that future Nats (and ALL model shows) will have to rethink almost every aspect of how things are done, and is it possible to hold the same type of show given new social paradigms? Personally, I believe much of what's happened has been a gross over reaction and things can go on "as normal" for the most part...but those are just MY feelings...and there's a significant number of our members with greater concerns than myself. We'll HAVE to take those concerns into consideration! Gil
  19. Super looking Wildcat! I just learned a lot I didn't know about the differences between the variants and admire the way you dedicated yourself to getting it all right. This was one of the group that held the line until better planes came along and your build is a fine tribute to them! Gil
  20. Thanks for the very kind words......but DANG.....time and a new perspective just made me realize that I weathered it except for the NEW PROP hung on the front end........just....DANG! Gil
  21. Excellent looking model of a lesser known variant! I've always felt the Hurricane overall gets the short shrift most of the time in the tall shadow of the more storied Spitfire. That's a great tribute to the harder working Hurricane for your collection! Gil
  22. Ruined? Naaahhhhhh......you're just at the beginning of a journey that most of us started many years ago. You're not screwing up anything we've never screwed up. You simply want to get the results you see others have, but remember they have way more experience than you have. It's a good goal, as it'll make you push yourself to be better. But, never let what others may think control your building or suck the fun out of your hobby! If you sincerely think you bought a couple of models a bit too complex for now, box them up and try to pick a few to get under your belt before you come back to them. The bottom line is FUN! There's NO requirements to build contest winners or match anybody else's quality. Cut yourself some slack, stretch your building legs until it frustrates you and then pull back a bit and relax. The only way you can fail is to not have fun when it's all said and done! GIL
  23. You've got some very good advice above...but this also raises a subject that you'll have to tackle at one time or another: detail painting. The guys are right....good paint and brushes are the key. If you don't have some very fine tipped brushes, go buy some. Make sure they have clear protective covers to help the points last longer. NEVER dip ANY paint brush all the way in the paint, only go about 1/3 of the way...you don't want much (if any paint) getting up into the ferule, as the accumulating dried paint up in there will spread the bristles and ruin its shape over time. Never "scrub" a brush on the bottom of your cleaner jar....instead just swish it around and then gently roll and pull/wipe the bristles on a paper towel or rag. You can use a bit of spit to wet, twist, and bring the brush to a point again before covering it with the protective sleeve. Don't overlook painting with something "finer" than a brush....a sharpened toothpick may give you better control in a very tight spot. It'll take some practice to find the right consistency for any paint you use to detail paint with. It needs to be thick enough to cover with a touch, but thin enough to actually flow off of the brush at a slight touch. The answer (how thick or thin) will NOT be the same all of the time....it'll depend on the brand, type, and also even the color you're using. The real answer here is practice, practice, practice on some spare parts, bond paper, or even the sprues of the kit (try painting those raised numbers!). Also, stick to using the brand thinner that matches the paint until you get more experience...it keeps things simpler. Lastly, use magnification! We all do...even the young, eagle-eyed among us! It can be something on your head, or a magnifying lamp, or both (as in my case). And also be sure you have some extra light that can be directed onto your work so there's no shadows obscuring what you're trying to see to paint. No matter the scale, no matter the model, as you build more and more, sooner or later you're going to want to try to tackle this. Some of the shortcuts listed above can save a lot of time (drybrushing, very fine tipped Sharpies, etc,).....but at one point or another you're going to need to be able to paint some buttons on a console. Don't let it intimidate you! Gil
  24. Superb rendition Ron! I really like the shadow shading on the bottom color. And now you'll find (as I did) that you have to be careful of the rigging that runs from the middle wing to the fuselage EVERY time you try to pick it up! Gil
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