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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. Here's some of the Special Awards and the Ace of Aces awards..... Hope you can make it to the show! GIL
  2. That's a lot of swag Duke! I managed to pick up one of my "holy grail" kits last week...The resin CollectAire 1/48 FH-1 Phantom. Although I didn't get a bargain, the price was surprisingly reasonable and near the original cost; which was nice since it's l-o-n-g out of production, and the ONLY one in 1/48 (except for an even more obscure and impossible to find vac). It's nicely molded with hollow castings for the fuselage and wings, and also has the option of folding the wings. This one may get built for the 'Nooga Nats! GIL
  3. Finally finished the Hasagawa F-16C kit.....added a resin seat and resin exhaust. I also had to modify a couple of pylons for the Harms, and actually make the Harms from spare box Shrikes since I'd robbed the Harms and AAMRAMS for my Growler build last year. That's also why it has two sets of sidewinders....the markings are an aftermarket set. The kit itself is quite nicely detailed and fits well. It's essentially their "A" Viper kit with some extra sprues that contain the "C" parts. So now I have two Vipers in my collection spanning from its inception until now after having none for the entire career of the real ones! Comments, questions, and critiques welcome, as always! GIL
  4. Very cool markings and a great looking build! GIL
  5. Glad to have you here Paul! I too enjoy the build the most; though I think we're outnumbered by those who like the painting or the "finishing" stages more. That's some very fine work you posted. You look to have a real eye for subtle weathering and sharp detail painting. Looking forward to seeing more of your work here! GIL
  6. It's tough to make a criticism of a Nats convention hotel here in the USA without coming off as a bit whiny. We're simply at the mercy of the venue the host chooses to use. They, on the other hand are at the mercy of the "calculus" Nick describes in balancing costs vs. what we cheap model building convention goers are willing to pay (and we make Scotts look like drunken sailors! !) And, the E-board, who ultimately decides which host gets to throw the Nats is at the mercy of who bids, IF more than one host does for any particular year.... Are some hotels and "chains" better than others? Sure...and even within certain chains some franchise owners are better than others, so that's why one Marriott might not measure up to another. It's tough to beat Embassy Suites...I mean- FREE HAPPY HOUR and FREE BREAKFAST!?? But not every city/host has one of those available. And, some cities have great convention centers but NO connecting hotels, meaning we have to walk more than we want. And parking? Heck, we've been VERY fortunate for the most part so far....I paid $65+/day in downtown Philly this last summer (off site too)! I cannot recall any convention approaching that (yet). Want to talk Nats hotels? How about the MOTEL used in DC in the 80's? How about the Phoenix show hotel where we had to walk 3 blocks in 100+degrees to get to the convention center (but there were nude statues to cavort on along the way....)? Or the hotel (Oklahoma?) where the second floor on one side of the main lobby didn't connect to the 2nd floor on the OTHER side of the lobby (very sad story behind that one actually)? Or the downtown Miami hotel where you might not want to linger in the parking lot or tour the neighborhood it was in? Or the St. Louis hotel that had banquet rooms SO small that many of us had to watch the awards via closed circuit TV? And those are just MY experiences..... The solution is to simply reserve and stay where it suits you. While most modelers actually scrimp and save a few bucks by opting for a local motel and NOT staying at the convention hotel; you can always book yourself into a hotel with ALL the amenities you're seeking, even if it costs a few bucks more per night. Don't like walking? Find a cheaper motel and use the difference for cab fare back and forth. In other words, MAKE it work out so you get what you want or need when it's not handed to you. The bottom line is that every host does the best they can to give the best "bang for the buck". Some hosts are simply better off when it comes to a hotel chain and convention center combo. Others have to take what they can and make the best of it. I've never know ANY of them to not try to give us the best that they can for the price range we've all become accustomed to expect for a Nats. We're accustomed to "rock bottom" prices and we've actually been spoiled more often than not for those low prices! And as for working a "deal" with a chain.....that's been tried and tried. The sad truth is that IPMSUSA is not worth their time and effort, especially when they look at all of the other business conventions that use more room nights and less floor space than we do. We come with some baggage (space needs) that most conventions our size don't; and we just cannot compare or compete with the others. And then there's the fact we tip lousy.......so do NOT look for us to work any deal with anyone nationally anytime soon. I have to agree that in the end, it's the SHOW that sticks in my mind more than any hotel room much more often than not. And, even the shows with less than ideal hotels often seem to become funny stories and flavorful backdrops to those shows where we had to be inconvenienced a bit. GIL
  7. Looks great to me, and that tank does not look very odd hanging there. Great build! GIL
  8. Thanks for the very kind words folks! I used the black Tamiya Accent wash on the gear and in the gear bays. I applied as sparingly as possible and let it run around the details. However, all of the panel lines on the model are drawn on in pencil, since the kit's raised panel lines were mostly sanded away while building. GIL
  9. If you feel the need to make a "hyper-accurate" P-51, then you MAY feel you need to putty lines on the wing. However, there's also a caveat to that line of thought.... I've also read that between depot paint work, the removal of one scheme for the application of another, and general wear and tear (wearing from missions), that the putty generally disappeared. In other words, if you were to do a plane with a significant number of missions under its belt, it would LOOK like the wing hadn't been puttied and sanded. Use your own judgement.... To answer your question more precisely....my understanding is that the only lines that showed when it left the factory were the lines for the ammo bay doors, as well as the divisions between the flaps and ailerons. Hopefully there'll be a better "expert" along soon to give you a more definitive answer. GIL
  10. In a word: STUPENDOUS! Thanks for the further explanation on your tinting. I have problems with it pooling at the edges and not being perfectly even across the entire part. Are you Airbrushing it, brushing it on, or dipping it? Nice pics too by the way...they really make all those little details you added pop out! Congrats, and thanks for letting us watch you work your magic! GIL
  11. Hi Rich! I'm sort of in the same boat as you, wondering EXACTLY how to use the Tamiya Panel Line Accent stuff. I've had it and been using it for a while now, with a little success and quite a few disappointments. It flows well and is VERY good for "pin washes" and accenting panel lines and raised lines on landing gear legs (etc.). As the videos above show, just touch it to a line and it flows very well. I do recommend using a gloss coat before hand. It makes wiping off slop easier....which brings me to the problems.... When trying to use it as a "wash" over a broad area, I've had trouble removing it. I've tried water and I've tried Tamiya thinner. It seems it either doesn't come off, or as I scrub it starts to remove the gloss coat AND the paint below! And this is over a LACQUER clear gloss and enamel paints! 😧 After watching a few videos, I saw that a couple of people used "lighter fluid" (Naptha) to thin it (not really needed) and/or remove it. I haven't tried that yet.... Anyway, I'm afraid to try to use it as a "broad wash" (as like when you want to do an entire wing to get into the rivets as well as the lines), and I'm going to try some Velejo wash instead for that. There's lots of different kinds of washes out there to choose from. If you want a PERFECTLY safe wash, grind up some pastel chalk (VERY finely) and mix it with water and a couple of drops of liquid dish washing soap. It WILL wipe off easily with plain water; you just have to be careful you don't remove it from where you want it. BUT, the good news is: no staining and any sloppy mistakes can be completely erased. And, if you do remove too much...just apply more and try again. Also, it needs to be sealed with another clear coat when done. Hope this helps....My best advice based on my experience with the Tamiya Accent stuff is that i'st great for accenting things, but don't brush it over broad areas. Perhaps someone with more experience will post soon and tell us both how to safely remove the excess completely! GIL
  12. Hi Chris! Welcome! Kick off your shoes, get comfy and make yourself at home. Feel free to post pics of whatever you build in the topics below, as we LOVE looking at models! Cheers! Gil
  13. Built this from the OLD 1975 Tamiya F-16A kit (with the left/right fuselage halves). Good kit for its age, OOTB except for the main gear door actuators. Since the kit is closest to being a prototype, I did the "cloud scheme" of the 2nd one built. This is the first F-16 I've ever built in spite of several in the stash for decades. I also have "C" almost done. Pics of it soon! GIL
  14. Joe: Archer makes resin rivets in various sizes that can be easily added to replace raised ones lost in sanding. They have a variety, so check them out to see if they have a size and shape that might fit your needs. Here's a link: https://www.google.com/search?q=Archer+raised+rivets&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwis7Neot5DgAhWRiOAKHZ5lB9QQsxgILQ&biw=1600&bih=760 GIL
  15. Our medals are in hand and ready to go! GIL
  16. Welcome Tony! Glad to have you here with us! GIL
  17. Got lots of Falcon vac canopies, but all 1/48, as you might suspect. Good luck! GIL
  18. Or......intake covers cost even less, add a bit of color, and save even more time! GIL
  19. Nice progress! As Clapton would say: "Let it Rain"....:) GIL
  20. Jaxcon 2019 will be held on Saturday, February 9th, from 9-6pm at the UNF University Center in Jacksonville, FL. This will be our 17th Jaxcon, and probably the 10th or so at the UNF Center. The biggest difference this year we want people to know about is that we will be a FULLY OPEN GSB show! EVERY model brought we be judged against the Standard. EVERY model that is brought will be able to win a medal IF it measures up to the Standard. You will beat no one, and no one will "beat" you! We've developed a new judging system that involves NO "math" or "points". It's still rooted in the basics of IPMS, but is much more flexible for the judges (since they'll judge independently at their leisure) and will also allow us to keep the model side of the room open all day, instead of needing to close it for judging. Our vendors area is once again sold out (and in record time this year)! And, we'll have Fine Scale Modeler AND a SAM publications rep covering our show. So, if you bring a model to the show, your entry (whether it wins anything or not) has a chance to be photographed and appear in 4 different modeling magazines! Although we've gone to GSB, we'll still have all of the Best Ofs and Special awards that we've always had. We'll also still have the Ace of Aces category (the only 1-2-3 category in the show) where you can pit one of your past winning models against other past winners in a head to head showdown. Jaxcon has become one of the largest shows in the southeast, and we're looking to make it even better! We hope YOU will make plans to join us for the FUN! Here's a link to our website where you can get all of the details and info you need: http://ipmsfirstcoast.org/ Gil Hodges Jaxcon chairman
  21. ghodges

    Albatross D-V

    Wish I could find a "spool" of that 6mil stuff! The Wonder Wire I bought comes "curled" in a plastic baggie. It naturally straightens out perfectly on its own as you take it out of the bag. It's quite flexible up to trying to make a 90deg bend. It will snap in two at that point. The flexibility allows you to cut it slightly over sized and then flex it into the holes. As long as the length is right and/or the holes are deep enough, it goes back perfectly straight with no need for heating. It's also rigid enough to simply be set between two points without using any holes too. GIL
  22. That is a gem! I'm always astounded by people like you who can model so crisply and cleanly, especially where rigging has to be added around an already painted and decalled model. Congrats on a gorgeous build and a very fitting tribute! GIL
  23. Keep in mind that almost all of us here on this site, and participating in these discussions are "old hands". We've competed for years, and in many cases have judged for years. I think many of those who're "blindsided" are NOT that experienced. I totally agree that anyone, as a contest goer, has a personal responsibility to read and understand the rules they plan to compete under. However, I don't find it too surprising when they don't, either assuming a show is like any other they've attended in the past, or just blithely entering with false expectations. What I'm driving at, since many of us here help run shows, is that we need to recall what it was like when we were "newbies and blundered our way from show to show. Be kind when pointing out an obvious gaff or oversight on the part of an entrant. They don't get to "slide" or be exempt from a rule they didn't know; but then we don't have to make them feel any worse than they do if we possibly can. GIL
  24. Excellent build! Sweet looking model! Gil
  25. Gonna disagree a bit Rusty...... You're going to tell me that the modeler that uses and simply PAINTS the 3D rocket engine bell assembly above is not using less craftsmanship than the builder who only has the basic kit supplied bell and has to add/scratchbuild the other parts to equal the look? What chance did the 3D "builder" have at leaving glue marks when adding the piping? For that matter, did the 3D builder actually draw all those details, or did he scan in a few pics from different angles that his software then replicated for the printing? How would THAT compare to even having to make and replicate that same detail in OTHER materials that are added to that bell by HAND? The WHOLE point to 3D printing, whether it's a part or a whole model, is to be able to do such things as the above in one piece, and in better scale, so that a PURCHASER/builder doesn't have to. You cannot convince me that having and adding such parts to our models in an IPMS contest will not have an impact on the judging, and more importantly, how FAIRNESS is maintained as we move forward. The problem is that at some point these parts, especially if not handled correctly by IPMSUSA, might impart an unfair advantage to some users. IPMSUSA needs to try to avoid even the appearance of such a thing, let alone the reality. We're NOT a society of computer designers, we're model builders. Whatever "design difficulties" a designer like yourself may have to overcome is just the same as those any model manufacturer has to overcome when they "up" their plastic kit technology. It has NO bearing on how well we BUILD our models, which is what we judge. GIL GIL
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