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ghodges

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. ghodges

    Albatross D-V

    This is the Eduard weekend edition Albatross D-V kit built OOTB with the kit markings. I did this one so I could knock the "mauve scheme" off of my bucket list! I did paint the red trim on the tail instead of trying to use the kit decals there. Ceramic Wonder Wire was used for the rigging. The Eduard Albatross is typical of most all their WWI kits; well detailed as kitted and true to fidelity to scale. Where they fall down in comparison to the "older" biplane kits we grew up with (that were not so nice) is that they're harder to build. The "scale pins" on the cabanes and V struts make it difficult to get positive fit and alignment. They're engineered towards accuracy, not towards being builder friendly, especially to the biplane novice. That said, it makes for an attractive model to put on your shelf when done! Critiques, comments, and questions welcome, as always! GIL
  2. My thoughts are that would be a cool looking arrangement that's not often seen. My reply to anyone who was stupid enough to say "those tanks were never used on the belly" would be; PROVE IT! If you're truly concerned about it, then go the safe, plain way and hang the flat belly tank that no one will question.... Yeah, my not caring what others think about how I build MY models is showing...... GIL
  3. If I might suggest..... Instead of just "one" subject, how about a how-to on several closely related subjects: "Building the Monogram 1/48 Bombers". This would allow you to tackle a wider variety of subjects (B-17, B-24, B-25, A-26, B-26) while covering techniques such as: scribing lines, enhancing and replacing raised lines without rescribing, painting and highlighting molded in detailing, whether or not to replace interior parts, a listing of the available aftermarket sets for those kits, metallic finishes, typical bomber weathering (per type/per theater), how to enhance/improve kit glass parts, best places to cram weights (and how much is needed per type); etc., etc.. Most everyone has and still builds these kits, even though there's a later issue B-25 and another B-26 out there. There may or may not ever be "new" B-17s and B-24s issued, but even if they do they'll be so expensive many will build the older Monogram kits, but will want to know how to get the most from them. GIL
  4. What a gorgeous scheme! I would go VERY light on any weathering...those planes were very well maintained in their day. Beauty of a build! GIL
  5. Impressive collection! Glad to see at least one museum who gets the idea that models can augment their displays and help fill in the gaps where they'll never have the money, the space, or even a no longer existent subject to display. Models make it MUCH easier to educate people on things like the evolution of markings in the various theaters, which could never fully be done on a group of 1-1 museum aircraft. If only more museums would follow their lead! GIL
  6. Love that camo scheme Duke! Good looking decal work too; wing walks and decals like that refueling receptical outline give me fits avoiding silvering, and I see absolutely none on yours! GIL
  7. I can accept a shop that at least communicates with me when I have a question on my order, even if I find their excuse is thin. In that case, I just do no more business with them. However, someone who won't even tell you what the delay is, let alone give you an idea of when they'll get your order filled; is unacceptable. At this point I'd inform your card to refuse to accept any request for payment from Sandle Hobbies and inform Sandle that you're cancelling your order and taking your business elsewhere due to poor service and even poorer communications. I wish you luck! GIL
  8. Absolutely gorgeous! Seeing yours makes me wish I hadn't folded the wings on mine. That's going to garner a lot of well deserved compliments everywhere you take it. Congrats! GIL
  9. Tamiya 1/48 Corsair kit. This was actually the 1D issue that I backdated to a 1A by filling in the step in the right flap and leaving off the drop tanks and the rockets. The kit I bought from a vendor had a Verlinden cockpit set, so I used it, along with some True Details resin tires. The markings are from Eagle Strike and depict Kepford's famous Corsair. Got this one built in just 10 days, which was a refreshing change form the 3mos the Ford nosed B-24 Liberator took over the summer! This was a lot of fun and I get to add one of my favorite Corsairs to my collection too! Comments, critiques, and questions welcome, as always. Cheers! GIL
  10. Excellent build Dick! No need to sell yourself short as it came out nice. The wooden props look perfect. How did you get the wood grain effect? GIL
  11. Never heard of them........but, they wouldn't be the first shop to take a mail order and THEN order what YOU want for their "stock". You may be waiting for their own order to be filled before they fill yours and ship it to you. What exactly did you want that they "had" (supposedly) that you couldn't order directly from the manufacturer? GIL
  12. Excellent paint job, and those tail stripes rock! Please expand on "Kapton" tape....is that a brand or a type? What makes it your preference? It looks like a possible new "tool" that we might all need! Thanks! GIL
  13. Went to Laughlin AFB in '79 for a day as an ROTC cadet. We all wanted T-38 rides, but were given T-37 Tweety" rides instead..... Guess what? The ac in a T-37 doesn't work unless it's moving and it took 45mins of sitting on the ramp, in the south Texas July sun, before we could taxi and take off! I was sweating like a hog by the time we were in the air.... Can't complain as it was STILL fun, even though we didn't get a "fast jet" ride! GIL
  14. Welcome Marcin! All I can do is echo everyone else's praises for your gorgeous work! Glad to have you here with us. GIL
  15. Nice strides made for just a couple of days....Do you have trouble with the masking putty when you handle it? I've been able to get it into place, but then have it flatten out or shift due to handling while painting a second or third color. Makes it nearly useless for getting a "soft" line... GIL
  16. Having just paid $55/day for the privilege of parking in downtown Philly at the Courtyard Marriott; $11/day is chump change. I'll also bet they'll be able to get your car to you faster than the 30-45mins it took in Philly too! The info I got when I called earlier in the week was that I should ask for Gabrielle Gorman, as she was the person handling that "type" of reservation (convention blocks, I guess), and she works Mon-Fri; 8-5 (no weekends). I only got her voicemail just before 5pm, but when I called the hotel again to ask if she'd left, they switched me to reservations and a very nice gent hooked me up. He just had to take the time to "read" the block info and then search to be sure the room I requested (single king bed) was available. It might be that the room block is NOT sold out, but the type of room you want may be sold out. My advice is to ask what room types are available in the block if your first request isn't available. Hope this helps! GIL
  17. Called the hotel, they switched me to reservations, and I got my room reserved at the Marriott for the 'Nooga Nats! NOTE THAT YOU WILL MOST LIKELY BE CHARGED $11/DAY FOR PARKING. I asked if parking was included in the $144/night room rate and was told it was not. So, IF parking is supposed to be included with the convention room rate, one of the 'Nooga guys needs to hop on this and get the info straightened out with the reservation folks. This is not a make or break item, but I have NOT seen it mentioned anywhere else, and want people to be aware of it. GIL
  18. This is the Koster vacuform conversion. It entails replacing the entire kit nose with the vac nose parts. The Koster kit also comes with complete sets of clear parts to replace/improve the kit turrets, side windows, and canopy. It has resin parts for the nose and tail turret interiors as well as metal guns. It also comes with a great decal sheet that gives you two choices of markings for a Ford Nose Liberator. The Monogram B-24J is still a great model even though the molds are now 40+yrs old. It has a ton of interior detail, much of which won't be seen after it's closed up inside. Its overall fit is good, but not great; and does require some TLC, test fitting, and elbow grease to erase the seams, especially on the nacelles. It features raised panel lines, but they are actually a more accurate representation of the lapped panel joins on the real B-24. I didn't bother to rescribe the model, opting to simply replace lost lines with a #11 blade and then enhance those with pencil panel lines. The kit features excellent engineering and wing to fuselage fit that allows you to assemble, paint, and decal the wings and then add them at the end of the build. You could even leave them off for easier transportation if you wanted. This is essentially where most of the work is on the model.... The fit was good, but I did have to do some shimming around the bottom bomb aiming window. You can also see the resin turret interior parts. The advantage of the vac nose and tail turret parts is that they put join lines along painted frame lines (the kit turrets do not). Their down side is that they're a bit too big and take some finesse and adjustments to make them fit in place. This pic shows the kit canopy taped in place, but in the end I opted for the vac canopy. Also, the small side windows are filled with Micro Krystal Clear as a "mask" for construction and painting. After the model was painted and decalled, they were torn out and new clear windows made using more Krystal Clear. Here are the pics of the finished model.... This is one of the tougher conversions I've ever built, mainly due to having to piece together 2 and 3 piece vac clear parts for the nose and tail turrets, and then fill, sand, and polish them! Thank God for Future! The external differences for this version are sort of subtle, consisting of the bubble side nose windows, a smaller bomb aiming window, the small side bottom windows, and the "S" panel line where it was grafted onto the fuselage. The fuselage side guns are also sealed closed. Think I'll build a couple of easier kits next! Comments, critiques, and questions welcome as always! GIL
  19. Very sharp looking bird! Sort of breaks the mold though for the rep of Marine "hand-me-down" equipment; not unlike when they got the Corsair much before the Navy did in WWII! Congrats on a great looking build! Looking forward to the F4U! GIL
  20. Nice progress! That's a nice kit for its age and with new decals should be a real eye catcher. One word of caution....as I recall, the seam on the bottom of the wings goes through the middle of the ailerons (what a dumb design!) instead of being located on the trailing edge. It makes for some extra work to get it filled and erased, but other than that, the kit should give you no problems. Looking forward to seeing more! GIL
  21. Looking great! The only suggestion I can add is to add a black wash into the cooling fins on the engine cylinders to make them "pop" a bot more. GIL
  22. I've used both at different times, and like them both. That said, in my experience the AK Metalics are easier to use than Alclad. As David emphasized, both need the same exacting prep work- a smooth as glass finish. Alclad is a little more forgiving since any gloss primer coat used will help fill micro scratches. But, you have to apply the gloss primer as smooth as possible since any problems in it will show up in the final finish. Also, you need to MIST the Alclad on in several light coats, It doesn't work as well if sprayed on in wet coats. So, if you're an airbrush novice, this might be yet another issue you have to conquer. When done right, it dries rock hard in less than 30mins and can be easily masked over with low tack tapes. The AK metalics can be applied directly over the bare plastic (which still has to be glass smooth) and can be sprayed much like any other enamel paint. It dries fast, like Alclad, and also has a hard finish that handles well and can be masked over. I like them both, and try to have a stock of both on hand. Alclad seems to have a few more colors to choose from, or at least they're easier to get here in Jax than the AK stuff. I think the best answer is to use both of them together; using the AK as a good overall base coat, and then varying colors on panels with the Alclad; since the AK acts as a "primer" for it. Hope this helps! GIL
  23. Nick is exactly correct! That said, I totally disagree with this IPMSUSA rule. IPMS "prides" itself on not making "accuracy" a judging criteria and yet decides that ACCURATE markings are a requirement for the regular categories! I find this a bit odd, since we judge on the basics, and you can judge hypothetical markings EXACTLY the same way as accurate markings are judged. So why separate them out? Simply make "accurate" and "hypothetical" markings a tie-breaker. If a model in hypothetical markings is better built than every other model in a category; so what? Aren't we supposed to be rewarding craftsmanship? GIL
  24. Nice progress Duke! Interesting use of the alternate black for the main IP dials, and quite effective! GIL
  25. It's not that hard to do....get a spool of solder in the size you think looks right for the fuel lines. It cuts easily, bends easily, and holds its shape. Drill holes and cut it to length for the lines. Make the insulators by simply wrapping strips of tape around the lines at the proper places. That will work well for 1/48 and 1/72; and you can do more for 1/32 and 1/24 where more detail can be seen. GIL
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