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Ralph Nardone

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by Ralph Nardone

  1. I've painted the liner white or light gray, then dusted with dark gray and black pastel, depending how "used" I want it to appear.
  2. The latest, from Kalmbach (Scale Auto magazine, to be exact). Note that this was derived from court documents and not direct discussion with the new owners: http://www.scaleautomag.com/articles/2018/04/revell-has-been-sold So there are some answers--the new owners basically bought the whole wad--molds, trademarks, etc. The questions that remain: 1. Despite owning the molds, will the new owners reissue legacy kits? (My opinion--yes to some, no to others.) 2. Who will distribute Revell GmbH kits in the States? 3. Ditto Hasegawa and Italeri kits. Again, this i
  3. I also spy a can of Duratite putty and a bottle of Duratite solvent, a bottle of Satellite City Hot Stuff...and is that a Lindberg F4D Skyray I see underway? I got into the Pactra Authentic International Colors late in the game (1981 or so), and by the time I developed a good feel for it--and an appreciation for just how good it was--it was gone. I switched to Polly-S not too long after that... Ralph
  4. The latest news has a group of investors, thought to be related to Revell GmbH management, buying both Revell GmbH and Revell USA. On Friday, Bert Kinzey made a post in the Detail and Scale Facebook page that said, in effect, that Revell USA has been shut down completely. Supposition has it that all future design will be overseen by the group in Germany. Molds will continue to be cut in either Korea or the PRC. Molding may be done in the PRC or Poland (most Revell GmbH kits are molded in Poland, most Revell-Monogram kits were molded in China). They will need to find a U.S. distributor, sin
  5. When Eduard came out with the new 1/48 Fw-190 kits last year, the big question I saw on the forums was "Why?" This illustrates the reasons very well. Great work so far. They are meant to have all the guts showing, and for a modeler to close everything up takes some work. You're progressing well... Ralph
  6. Reminds me of a joke... Clem: "Hey, Cletus, why you pulling that rope?" Cletus: "Ever tried to push one?" I've always used either Davis' Invisible Thread (the smoke color stuff if you can find it) or some .010 stainless wire I bought at the 1999 IPMS/USA National Convention. Admittedly, the wire is easier for rigging where you have multiple runs of wire. Invisible Thread works well for single lines, like antennas. Gil cited the reasons above--the thread will need to be tensioned, and tensioning multiple wires at the same time is a royal pain... Ralph
  7. I used to part-time (and still help out) at the local HobbyTown. And I can assure of this: For every "traditional" model (military, automotive, etc.), we would sell a dozen Gundams. And that's a good thing. Why? Because they are plastic models, same as those Sherman Tanks, P-51's, and iterations of the USS Arizona or KM Bismarck. It is getting kids into the hobby of plastic modeling. The shop has opened up to hosting "Model Building Day" every Saturday, and for every "traditional" modeler, there are three guys building Gundams, MaK, or other Sci-Fi kits. Our upcoming show in June
  8. As with most ANG units, finding decals for everything is usually a treasure hunt. In a lot of cases, you'll have to cobble together what you need from insignia, letter, and number decal sheets. If you wait for a sheet dedicated to a particular airplane, you may be waiting. That being said, Caracal Models has been doing a lot of neat subjects lately. You may want to check them out... http://www.caracalmodels.com/ Ralph
  9. The Tornado was a parallel project to the Typhoon, with the Tornado using the RR Vulture X-block engine and the Typhoon using the Napier Sabre H-block engine. Both were 24-cylinder liquid cooled powerplants... Nice work, Ron!
  10. The problem stems from the fact that the carrier/thinners in the AK wash are the same as for the acrylic metallics you used. As suggested above, try a water color wash. Another something to try would be to apply a coat of Future (or whatever they're calling it this week) and letting it dry for a few days. This becomes a barrier that is impervious to even oil washes. Beware, though, it will slightly dull the metal look. Honestly, I don't like the AK or Vallejo washes. They're acrylic, which means that they dry and set quickly, allowing very little time to manipulate them. They seem t
  11. Yes, you can use a contrasting color pencil--hold it so the side of the tip rides along the raised line. Others have sanded all the panel lines off, and once the model is finished they have drawn new panel lines on the model, then sealed it with clear flat. Yet others re-scribe. One of the neatest re-scribing techniques I've seen is Paul Budzik's technique of scribing the lines not into the plastic, but into the final painted model. He hasn't re-posted that particular video on YouTube yet, but if you search his name he has quite a few great modeling tips, both on YouTube and his o
  12. Hobbico's debt came, in part, from a patent infringement lawsuit--one of their subsidiaries, ARRMA (a manufacturer of RC cars), was sued by Traxxas (probably the premier manufacturer of entry- and intermediate level RC cars and trucks). https://www.scribd.com/document/320063741/Traxxas-v-Hobbico-Amended-Complaint Hobbico filing Chapter 11 is a surprise only in that it hadn't happened earlier. When I worked at the local hobby shop, we were taking bets that it would happen as early as 2016... Ralph
  13. Two choices. Have you tried Windex or ammonia? Or even Isopropyl Alcohol? If they don't work, get a jug of Purple Power (it used to be Castrol Super Clean) and a plastic tub large enough to submerge the model. Fill the tub, put the model in the soup, and wait about 30 minutes. You should be able to scrub the old paint off with an old toothbrush. Rinse, let dry, and you're ready to go again. Use gloves. This stuff is a degreaser, and will dry your skin in a second. Once you're done, let the gunk settle, then pour the cleaner back into the jug. Ralph
  14. Nice work, Gil. Which squadron will this one be?
  15. Nice job! I built one back in the day, and thought it odd that there was no nose greenhouse and that there weren't many guns in the nose--until I realized that there was one big gun up there. Then it went from being cool to being ultra-cool... I also remember it was one of the first Monogram kits I built that had the Shep Paine diorama brochure in it. I think I still have it here after this time. Ralph
  16. C'mon, Timmy...a little Elmer's Wood Filler, some Microballoons, and a trowel. Roll yer own, man... :) Ralph
  17. Tim, I believe the word you're seeking is "amnesty", and I fail to see how this is any form of amnesty. It is a reduced rate to join IPMS at an IPMS sanctioned show hosted by a chartered IPMS Chapter. No more, no less. Ralph
  18. Timmy, I'm with Ron--even protected new marble still has an almost translucent, semi-gloss sheen to it. I'd use an off white and let it dry. Then I'd seal it with a gloss varnish (Future), let that dry, and use Payne's Grey oils to add the veining to it. Once you have it to your liking, let the oil paint dry and overcoat with semi-gloss clear. Ralph
  19. Hasegawa, like all model kit manufacturers, has produced many fine kits. They've also made a few dogs, too. The best advice I have is to do a Google search or ask questions pertaining to a specific kit. For instance, if you want to know about the Hasegawa 1/48 P-51D Mustang, my impression is that it is a fine kit, but the wheel wells are a bit shallow. It certainly builds quickly into a very nice model. The only competition right now that I know of would be Tamiya's kit, which is just a bit better on the fit, finish, and detail side of things...but you can't go wrong with the Hasegawa
  20. I gave a seminar on this at the National Convention in August. I'm trying to put it together and post it... The Readers' Digest version: 1. Remove the parts and clean up sprue nubs, mold marks, ejector pin marks, and any other molding defects (draft angle deficiencies, out-of-round, etc.) 2. Dry fit. If it doesn't fit, adjust it until it does fit. 3. Paint the interior areas. You can prime first if you like. Any light grey or white paint, preferably matte, will work (I like Tamiya's white primer in the spray can. And yes, I use the can--I don't decant and airbrush) 4. Inst
  21. In Columbia we've learned that when the thermometer hits 100+ outside, shorts are an acceptable fashion item. If I recall, all of us (Convention Staff) were wearing shorts and a Staff shirt for the banquet, and those not in shorts were wearing jeans. So, I'm good with slacks, jeans, or shorts and a collared shirt (golf/polo or button) and closed shoes (or nice sandals for the ladies who like to wear them)--no "Holy Pants", no T-shirts, no flip-flops. Also, add that they should be clean and in good condition... As for the hats inside, that has become a huge problem. My wife has to const
  22. $790 for the chips, $150 for the fan deck--and this is represented as FS595a. I believe the current document is FS595c... Most model colors these days are matched, or there are color conversion charts for those not so matched (Tamiya and Vallejo immediately come to mind)... http://www.paint4models.com/ There are also other places where you can get FS595 information for nothing more than the energy it takes to click the mouse... http://www.federalstandardcolor.com/ http://www.ipmsnymburk.com/tamiya%20mixing/FSTamiya.pdf http://www.fed-std-595.com/FS-595-Paint-Spec.html
  23. Rod, I don't see negative in the thread, only people trying to make suggestions. You mentioned no Make and Take--IPMS has ended the program. You mentioned the big manufacturers throwing in some money--but these are the same people that led to IPMS having to kill the Make and Take due to them raising the costs to IPMS. The juniors are out there. Each Chapter has to court them. All the Make and Tales in the world won't cause a young person to stop in at your meeting and say, "Here I am!" You need to go out and find them. Junior-only Chapters work in some areas--if they'll work in
  24. In my first Seminar on Thursday, I mentioned juniors in a scenario I used to illustrate someone getting back into the hobby and introducing their kid to it as well. A few things I mentioned: 1. The kid was probably not interested in old, propeller driven airplanes from a long-ago conflict 2. The kid was probably looking at fast cars, fast jets, or Sci-Fi and Gundam. Backing that up, I work at a HobbyTown. For every "traditional" (i.e., military or car model) we sell, we sell at least a half dozen Gundam kits. 3. I left the identity of "The Kid" gender-neutral. Young ladies are joi
  25. Thanks so much. I have another post to another thread--we had lots of help. One thing that I told the rest of the committee when we won the bid was that most IPMS guys would love the fact that we were walking distance from The World of Beer, The Flying Saucer, Moriarty's Irish Pub, The Liberty Tap Room, The Hickory Tavern, and many other beer joints... :) Ralph
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