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Ralph Nardone

IPMS/USA Member
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Ralph Nardone last won the day on March 20

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  • Website URL
    http://www.ironmodeler.com

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  • FirstName
    Ralph
  • LastName
    Nardone
  • IPMS Number
    33984
  • Local Chapter
    IPMS/Mid-Carolina Swamp Fox Modelers
  • City
    Newberry
  • State
    SC
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Newberry, SC USA
  • Interests
    Somewhat eclectic

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  1. Even if it comes out of a bottle and you thin/reduce it for spraying (or spray it straight), you need to wear the PPE. It doesn't matter if the paint thins with water or acetone, protect your lungs (and the rest of your body). R
  2. Or a respirator, or both. Not a dust mask, not an N95, but a cartridge respirator. Respirators are cheap--big-box home centers sell them for around $35. Buy one. Use it. Your lungs will thank you. Cheers! Ralph
  3. Since my two terms as Chief Cook and Bottle Washer in the Columbia chapter are over and I'm back in the peanut gallery, I'm not in a position to officially comment. The Columbia chapter is under new management, so anything is possible... Cheers! R
  4. I used it to point out that the annual version of the rules aren't always ready on 1 January. Nothing else was intended or needed to be read into it. Whatever the reason, we were told that the rules are ready when the NCC says they are.
  5. Beginning of the year at the earliest. If memory serves, the National Rules package for 2016 wasn't complete and ready to post until at least May, maybe later that year--I recall getting a lot of traffic on that subject, as in "When will the rules be released?" Our answer then, as it is now, is "That's the NCC's baby and when they release them, they'll get published". So, Jim is absolutely correct--This is nothing new. R
  6. My thoughts exactly. When I saw the announcement, my first thought was "How long before the Philadelphia Lawyers come forth with all sorts of questions, having over analyzed these new rules for five minutes?" Just making observations...
  7. Columbia did, too. We bid in '12 for '14, lost that bid, then bid in '14 for '16. If you plan it well, there's not much rework to do on the bid package--do a price check, amend the numbers, and present the bid.
  8. A few things that have been touched upon: Smaller cities. Atlanta, Miami, NYC, LA, etc., are pretty much out of anyone's budget. That's why (here in the former East rotation, anyway) we've seen Columbia, Chattanooga, and Hampton Roads host conventions in recent years. Resort cities: Orlando and Vegas had good shows, I'm told, but that comes at a price, especially when IPMS/USA touts it as a "family vacation". How many of you guys had to curtail your vendor room expenditures in those two cities because mom and the kids wanted to go see the sights? As they say, you pays yo' money, you takes yo' chances... Multiple hosts. The first "official" convention hosted by multiple Chapters was Orlando in '99. While they flew under the "IPMS/Florida" banner, it was a collection of members from the various R11 Chapters. That was also in the days before the National office was directly involved on the financial end of the Convention, too... Fast forward to 2016: We (IPMS/Mid-Carolina) co-hosted with the IPMS/Piedmont Scale Modelers. Having a co-host makes it easier, especially if both clubs are small. A few other notes from 2016: We had a small committee of 6 people. Everyone had clearly-defined jobs. The more members you have on the committee, the more confusing things can get. We had heard of some conventions that had 20 and 30 people just on the committee alone, not to mention the work force. Our total work force for the Convention was around 20 people... You have to have buy-in from your Chapter members. Without them, you are sunk. Come game time, you need to have your aces in their places--and, as the commercial says, you need to have "no cussin', no fussin', and no backtalkin'"...everyone should be ready to go, and they should know their jobs. We made a deal with the Columbia Visitors and Convention Bureau before we even thought about bidding. If you work with the municipality, have past numbers handy--get the last three or four financial statements. Why? Because any good CVB will ask "What will this do for us economically?" Be Johnny-on-the-spot with numbers. See what they're willing to do for you--we wangled a deal where the convention center came to us at no charge IF we filled a certain number of room nights at the Convention hotels. (By the way, for you guys that squeeze the nickels until you get buffalo chips, this is the prime reason you should consider staying at the "official" hotel.) So, yeah, cities like Knoxville, Tucson, Charlotte, Greenville (SC), Richmond, etc., might be good choices. And who knows? If someone on your organizing committee in, say, Daytona Beach, San Diego, or Jacksonville, has an "in" with the CVB, you might get lucky... It is the age old thing. You never get anything if you don't ask. What's the worst that can happen? They can tell you "no".
  9. I find that acrylics tend to be tenacious when they start to dry on a metal surface, and the field strip is the best way to keep it clean. I've tried everything else, including different products that are supposed to break down paint, but nothing beats a quick disassembly. After a while, it doesn't take longer than 5 minutes to do. Lacquer and enamel users can get away with spraying thinner until it comes out clean between colors, but should still field strip the airbrush at the end of a session. This might be interesting to you, as well: https://modelpaintsol.com/guides/airbrushing-tips-v4-airbrush-cleaners Cheers! R
  10. You didn't same which model airbrush, or what type. I use a Badger 105 Patriot and a Grex Tritium TG.3. Both are gravity feed dual action airbrushes, the Badger a traditional trigger type; the Grex a pistol-grip type. Cleaning is similar for both... I use acrylics, and between each color I "field strip" the airbrush--remove the needle, tip, and nozzle and clean them thoroughly. I use Iwata's airbrush cleaner for this, followed by a flush with clean water. For stubborn spots, I use alcohol or lacquer thinner. Tamiya's Airbrush Cleaner works well, too. I use twisted paper towels to get into those small spaces, or you can buy dental paper points online--they do the same thing. Some folks use a torch tip cleaner consisting of small brushes. If you can find a pipe cleaner that doesn't have a wire center, you can also use it. IF you use one with a wire, be careful not to scratch anything. Old paintbrushes and toothbrushes come in handy, too. After each cleaning, I use a dab of Iwata's "Superlube" airbrush lubricant. Badger markets theirs as Regdab. Just a dab will do ya. Every year or so, I disassemble the airbrush and inspect for worn seals, etc., and give it a complete cleaning with lacquer thinner. As with building models, the key is to be patient and careful. Be careful not to bend the tip of the needle or deform the nozzle opening. For the most part, threaded parts should be finger snug--no need to He-Man the parts together, even if they do require a wrench or similar tool. And, follow the manufacturer's instructions. Now, on to the disclaimers: Disclaimer #1: Some airbrush manufacturers say you shouldn't use anything containing ammonia to clean their airbrushes--it erodes the plating and will eventually corrode the brass under the plating. However, you can use ammonia to clean--just be sure to give the airbrush a thorough flushing with clean water afterwards . Disclaimer #2: Badger says not to use alcohol--it is a drier, not a cleaner, they say. However, alcohol can do a good job of cleaning--it might take some more effort to remove small spots of dried paint. Badger says you can use ammonia to clean the airbrush--the same comment about a thorough flush with water still stands. Disclaimer #3: Most of them say not to use industrial chemicals to clean their airbrushes. They're speaking about Toluene, Acetone, and MEK, mostly, and they have a point--if you airbrush has any sort of soft seal (synthetic rubber), these chemical can cause them to either soften into goo or become embrittled. Some folks swear by carburetor or brake cleaner, but the same caveats apply. In all honesty, there hasn't been a case of a dirty airbrush that I have encountered that cannot be solved by good, old, hardware store brand lacquer thinner. Cheers! Ralph
  11. Yeah, but there's that pesky "as may be noted in kit instructions" thing, though... 🙂 I like thermal receipt paper. It is thin and strong. You can make the belt hardware from paper (card stock is ideal) as well. Rolled epoxy putty (my favorite is Aves Apoxie Sculpt) can be used, too, for both belts and hardware. Cheers! Ralph
  12. If you already have an Optivisor, you can either get a different lens or add a loupe... https://doneganoptical.com/product-category/headband/ Cheers! Ralph
  13. For figures, I will still splurge for the Windsor and Newton Series 7 brushes, and use them ONLY on figures with artists oils--despite them being labeled "watercolour" brushes. If it was good enough for Shep Paine... I have tried a bunch of the others. The Grumbacher line is pretty good, as are the Royal & Langnickel and Daler-Rowney brushes--these are all available at Michael's. Some are sable, some are synthetic. The "store brands" (Artists' Loft, etc.) are hit and miss, so shop carefully. Incidentally, I find that shopping in person is important when buying brushes... SHAMELESS PLUG ALERT! However, if I have to go online for brushes (or any other art supplies like pigments, oil paint, etc.), I like using The Merri Artist in McMinnville, OR. I have ordered from them several times, and they are great. The fastest I ever got anything from them (normal shipping) was two days from Oregon to South Carolina. https://merriartist.com/ If The Merri Artist doesn't have what I need, I turn to Blick Art Materials. https://www.dickblick.com/ I'll always support the smaller business first. But that's just me... In the hobby world, the Army Painter brand gets high marks (I have yet to try them). You can do the sprue nub trick Rusty outlined above, you can use the eye end of a sewing needle or a short length of wire shoved into the eraser end of a pencil as a glue applicator. I break a sewing needle in half--the pointy end gets chucked into a #1 handle and is used as a scriber. I then cut the "loop" end of the eye (leaving a fork), shove the shaft end into the pencil eraser, and I have a glue applicator. The smaller the needle, the smaller the eye, and the smaller the eye, the smaller the drop of CA that it will hold. When I use wire, I'll put a slight kink in it--that helps it "grab" a bit more adhesive. Cheers! Ralph
  14. I can't speak for Vietnam era (or any era) military aircraft maintenance, but in the civilian world, yes, axle jacks can be used on some types--it is a lot easier to jack at the axle than at the jack points, since jacking the axle takes one jack (the jack points requires multiple jacks and personnel). Aircraft with dual mains can also be "jacked" on a ramp--the wheel that isn't being worked sits on a ramp while the "bad" wheel is free to be removed.
  15. 1971? Scalemates shows the Minicraft/Academy PBY-2 hit the market in 1993, followed by the -5, -4, and -5A. The -5 was the first straight Academy release after the split, and that was 1996... In any case, I checked my database...none in the stash, sorry... Ralph
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