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Ralph Nardone

IPMS/USA Member
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    592
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Ralph Nardone last won the day on December 23 2020

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About Ralph Nardone

  • Rank
    Styrene Junkie

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.ironmodeler.com

Profile Information

  • FirstName
    Ralph
  • LastName
    Nardone
  • IPMS Number
    33984
  • Local Chapter
    IPMS/Mid-Carolina Swamp Fox Modelers
  • City
    Newberry
  • State
    SC
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Newberry, SC USA
  • Interests
    Somewhat eclectic

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. IPMS/Mid-Carolina and AMPS Central South Carolina will be hosting the SC Scale Model Mega Show and IPMS/Region 12 Regional Show at the South Carolina National Guard Armory, 1225 Bluff Road, Columbia, SC 29201. We're currently scheduled for 18 and 19 June 2021. The show itself begins at 9AM on Saturday. We will have food trucks on premises as in the past. As of now, we believe the Military Museum will also be open, and we will provide driving direction for those who wish to visit the South Carolina State Museum/South Carolina Confederate Relic Room to view the 1/72nd scale diorama of Fire S
  2. And, if all else fails and you either don't have a local shop or the local shop doesn't carry an alternative, True North Precision Paints are, I'm told, nearly identical to Model Master. You just have to order them online... As I said when the initial "Woe is me, Testors is going away" posts started popping up on the various forii, Testors didn't have anything in their line that doesn't have an available alternative or alternatives that in some cases are better and/or more economical, it just means that you'll probably have to buy it online. Seeing as "the local hobby shop" might not ex
  3. "Do you get wafers with it?" Very nicely done, especially in 1/72nd scale. My hat goes off to you for your patience and perseverance! Cheers! Ralph
  4. Seeing as how the Hasegawa AD-5/A-1E was a re-boxed Monogram kit, try looking under the Monogram or Revell labels. Here's the Scalemates entry: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/monogram-pa146-douglas-a-1e-skyraider--147629 A company called Skale Wings produced a 1/72 Fat Face SPAD a few years ago, but it is difficult, if not impossible, to find. There were also a few RVHP Resin conversions for the Hasegawa AD-6 kits, too, but again, they are difficult to find. Which Hasegawa F-4E? They made two kits--one in 1973 and another in the 1990's. By "detailed", what exactly are you l
  5. Competition brings out the best in products and the worst in people. -- David Sarnoff, President of the Radio Corporation of America and the father of modern color television. The siren's song of competition in what should be a hobby has clouded a lot of folks' idea of what the hobby itself is all about. (Hint--it ain't about the awards.) We need to stop the illusion that the current IPMS/USA contest format is good for modeling. It may have been at one time, but I've seen too many cases of how it has turned into a ruthless and cutthroat blood-sport, where the guys who have cracked
  6. To add to what has been said, don't use a lot of water--it should be more like a stiff dough than anything else. Add a generous blob of white glue to the mix, and apply it in thin layers. Depending on the substrate, it may take a few days to dry completely. If you want to try something else, try Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty, available from Lowe's and The Home Depot. It is a dry powder that can be mixed with water to different consistencies. For general coverage, mix it to the consistency of cookie batter and spread it with a putty knife. To fill gaps between items that have been cu
  7. It could be as easy as altering the language from "Decals other than those included with the kit may be used" to "Alternate paint and markings schemes are permitted." As for items like the Quinta cockpit details, they may be printed on decal paper, but I see them as the plastic evolution of photoetched parts. That's just me... Cheers! Ralph
  8. Kapton is used as an electrical insulator. At one time, it was used for the insulation on aircraft-grade wiring. It is light, but is not able to withstand abrasions, and once scored it tended to split. One airplane I re-wired had wiring that looked like beads on a string... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton The tape is available through Amazon and several other sources: https://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-Yds/dp/B006ZFQNT6
  9. Durham's is a DIY filler. The beauty of it is that you can control the consistency of it by mixing in more or less water. Less water, you get a thick putty; more water, you get a pourable, pancake-batter consistency. Each has their uses. Back in the day, FineScale Modeler ran a series of articles by Ray Anderson called "The Art of the Diorama" (and later compiled them into a book). He would use Durham's for his groundwork. We followed suit on our 1/72 scale Fire Support Base now located at the South Carolina Confederate Relic Room and Military Museum. Read about it here (click thro
  10. The site design they used two or three re-designs before the recent revamp was good, but the most recent site designs sucked rocks. And the initial attempt at a website was horrid, even in year 2000 terms.
  11. I first became aware of Squadron through their ads in the late 1970's in the old Challenge Publications rag "Scale Modeler", and I first ordered from them in 1983. From 1983 through the mid-1990's, they were my go-to. Then I started working in a hobby shop (Warrick Custom Hobbies in Plantation, FL) where I could get whatever I wanted by tacking it on to a stock order, and had no use for mail order (or, as became more frequent, online purchasing). I moved in 2001, and the next time I used Squadron was in 2005--what a marked difference. Shipping prices were through the roof (not 100% Squadro
  12. As folks have stated already, cost is a matter of personal perception. We had a member of IPMS/Flight 19 many years ago who would not, under any circumstances, purchase a kit if it retailed for over $20. It didn't matter if it was a kit of his favorite subject, $20 was his line in the sand, and that would usually include the paint he needed for the project, too. Meanwhile, another member would routinely spend at least $100 on any model he built--by the time you totaled up the cost of the kit (and the kits be built were usually at that same $20 point), the aftermarket (and remember, this was
  13. I never said it was--I merely mentioned that modelers who want to game the OOB rules make that claim--they feel they "need" to include ignition harnesses or deck railings to make their model "accurate". And I also said that OOB, for an experienced modeler, is automatically a compromise, since the OOB rules box you in on what you can or cannot do to the model, where as the Open categories allow you freedom to do whatever you wish. Honestly, I can think on no plastic modeling organization that (officially) uses accuracy as a yard stick. Every now and then, I see a claim from IPMS folks a
  14. The other alternative--one I favor, and one I've discussed on this forum before--is to limit out of box models to being just that--out of the box. Period. No added seat belts, rigging, spark plug wires, etc., unless it comes in the kit and is shown on the instruction sheet. Aftermarket decals should be allowed, but that's as far as it really should go. People then argue along the lines of "well, the model will seem to be lacking if I don't add seat belts" or "it won't be accurate if there are no railings" (that one still confuses me, since, last time I checked, accuracy was not a jud
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