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Ralph Nardone

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Everything posted by Ralph Nardone

  1. Artists' Matte Gel Medium works, too. Thin it with distilled water, if you feel the need. Ralph
  2. Nice. I loved that series of models as a kid. I was glad to seem them being reissued, even in their "un-Disney" guises.
  3. That is one of the USCG's P4Y-2G's, and that SAR nose was peculiar to them. Nobody I am aware of makes this as an aftermarket canopy set, so you'll have to make a form (buck) and thermoform one. It isn't as hard as it sounds--the buck can be made from wood or air drying clay. You'll want the buck to be slightly smaller than the final item. When you have it shaped, make sure it is smooth and then seal it with a few coats of a clear gloss until it is smooth and shiny. Make some sort of provision to add a dowel "handle" on the back side, then securely clamp the handle in a vice. Take a she
  4. René Leduc certainly loved his ramjets. Nice work! Goes to show, those Model Building 101 skills come in handy! Ralph
  5. I'll play... My models on display. The Hasegawa Beaufighter illustrates part of my "Model Building 101" seminar, as does the Revell Voodoo. The other two were long-term projects that finally got off the bench and on to display bases--the Hasegawa F-111F was built as "KARMA-52", the aircraft lost during Operation EL DORADO CANYON, and the ER-2 is Special Hobby's kit. They're all in 1/72 scale: The helicopters--four Hasegawa UH-1H Iriquois, and an Italeri OH-6A Cayuse and CH-47 Chinook (backdated from CH-47D to a CH-47C "Super C") for the Fire Support Base RIPCORD proje
  6. IMPORTANT NOTICE THE 3rd ANNUAL SOUTH CAROLINA SCALE MODEL MEGA SHOW HAS BEEN CANCELLED Our show committee met this past week and made our final decision for the 2020 South Carolina Scale Model Mega Show: We have decided to cancel the show this year. There were several underlying factors, but South Carolina Governor Henry McMaster's Executive Order 2020-21 was the prime reason we made this decision. Contained in the EO is this passage: …I am directing additional emergency measures in response to the threat posed by COVID-19, to include temporarily prohibiting rest
  7. I used British Interior Green. It is a close match.
  8. But Tamiya doesn't make a 1/32 F4U-4 kit...
  9. I usually set my pressure with the trigger depressed--it gives me more of an idea what the pressure at the gun will be when I'm spraying. I used to return thinned paint to the original jar, until I had several jars solidify or turn to jelly on me after a day or so. I learned then that if I wanted to save extra paint to do so in a clean jar, that way the original won't be compromised. I've had this happen with both enamels and acrylics, the lacquers don't seem to have this issue. I use acrylics almost exclusively these days, so after each color I'll start by spraying cleaner throug
  10. You weren't disregarded--several people explained that it is not that easy to just "push everything back by one year"--Vegas and Omaha (the next two hosts in 2021 and 2022, respectively) have already negotiated their contracts (contrary to popular belief, even though IPMS/USA takes care of the finances, each host negotiates their own deals with venues and hotels), and to push everything back would not only require San Marcos to renegotiate, it would require Vegas and Omaha to do the same. Unless and until the Texas government decides to enact some sort of lockdown or shutdown, IPMS is at the
  11. Gloss: Future (or whatever they call it these days). Flat: Either Vallejo Matt Varnish or Liquitex Matte Varnish. In all reality, they're probably close to being the same thing. Semi-gloss: Either Vallejo Semi-Matt Varnish or the Liqitex Matte Varnish, un-stirred and unshaken. I thin Future with Isopropyl Alcohol, about 50-50. It is certainly thin enough to spray from the bottle, but I find the alcohol helps it to dry faster, and it does not dry to a mirror gloss but rather a smooth, slick, almost eggshell finish. I leave it to dry/cure for 36-48 hours before I start applyi
  12. I'm going to deviate from the Testors demise just a bit. I'll circle back to it, I promise... For years, we've heard the lament that "the hobby is dying", and to a point, it has--it is no longer a pocket money hobby where I kid with a few bucks ($2 in my day, closer to $20 in this day and age) in his pocket can build and paint a model. Plastic modeling is going (and has been for two and a half decades, I think) the same direction as model railroading--it has become a hobby that attracts, for the most part, older men with disposable income. That's not sexist, it is what I saw every day
  13. Bingo, Nick! I had an appointment with my doctor on Tuesday, and we discussed COVID-19. Her words to me? "We simply still don't know what we don't know!" Cheers! Ralph
  14. Apparently, things have changed in even the past two months. Our local HobbyTown (Columbia, SC) was informed in March that the only Testors products that would be available were the square bottle enamels (in boxed sets only), generic aerosols, and the glues. Think back to 1975, and that's what they were laying out as their "new" lansdcape for 2020. As I've posted on several other forums, this may seem a shock, but there is precious little Testors produced that can not be found elsewhere. Do you like enamels? Humbrol is still available, as is Xtracolour. Also, True North Precision
  15. From the 2017 issue: https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/1/5/6/975156-40-instructions.pdf
  16. From the 1987 issue: https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/0/3/5/944035-29-instructions.pdf
  17. IPMS Region 13 includes cyber clubs: https://calendar.ipmsusa3.org/region/region-13-ak-satellite-international-and-cyber-clubs
  18. On old decals--you might want to get some Microscale Liquid Decal Film and apply a few coats to the decal sheet--this should give you insurance over splintering into a gazillion bits. You will have to trim each marking, as you have, in effect, created a single decal. If they are merely yellow, taping them in a window and allowing the sunlight to bleach them might work. if they're brown, that is probably the adhesive itself, and no amount of bleaching will help. On a replacement canopy, you might just have to go Old School and carve a master from balsa or basswood, then vacuum-form a re
  19. You can also purchase store showcases in knock down kit form: https://www.displays2go.com/Class/Display-Cases-1099 https://www.storesupply.com/c-495-display-cases.aspx They may look expensive, but if you factor in all the costs of building one yourself, the money isn't too bad. Cheers! Ralph
  20. +1 on the Hakko unit. I've worked corporate jet avionics for 30+ years, and most shops I've worked for either had them or upgraded to them--they are of a much better quality than a comparable Weller unit.
  21. This is precisely why most RCs will ask the Chapters in their Region to carefully review the Charter Renewal Fact Sheet rather than just rubber stamp it and send it back. Frankly, I can't see how a Chapter can be rechartered if the Chapter Contact information the RC has is incorrect--if the CC doesn't get the paperwork, how can they recharter? And if the RC knows the CC info on file is no longer accurate, then it is on the RC to correct it.
  22. The particular fonts you are looking for are Amarillo USAF and Long Beach USN. Check your font menu on your word processing program--Amarillo may already be there. Long Beach used to only be available through TLai Enterprises, but dafont has a passable version listed as "USN Stencil" font.
  23. Very nicely done! I built the Revell kit many moons ago, and the Zukei Mura kit is certainly worlds apart! The diorama should be a sight to see, can't wait until you get it finished and post pictures. Cheers! Ralph I've moved the rest of my reply to Nick's thread in the Bull Pen.
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