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TonyD

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TonyD last won the day on December 28 2019

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About TonyD

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    Assembler

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  • FirstName
    Anthony
  • LastName
    Dangelo
  • IPMS Number
    7784
  • City
    DESERT HILLS
  • State
    AZ

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  1. Thanks, Nick. Yeah, I'm thinking the kit fuselage may be too narrow... I have the Dragon kit packed away, when I get a chance I'll dig it out and take a look. Thanks for the feedback!
  2. I have the Airmodel vacuform conversion kit #106 that includes the 2 seat version of the Do-335 fighter that I bought in the '70's. It uses the Lindberg 1/72 kit as the basis (that I also have). Just looking for anyone that might have made this conversion. I cut out the second seat canopy and dorsal fairing and cut a (preliminary) hole in the top of the model. My initial thoughts are that the conversion will involve more that just gluing the conversion part onto the model as the kit instructions say. The conversion part seems too wide based on photos I have of the 2-seat aircraft. At
  3. I recently purchased the DetailUp 1/35 US, German uniform insignia decal sheet, 63335C, and am looking for a reference sheet. The decals have ID numbers that must be contained someplace. The seller could not help me. Please see attached; any help is very much appreciated! Thank you DetailUp 63335C US German Decal Sheet.docx
  4. Thanks for all the comments. It looks like what I'm calling the hassle of cleaning is 'the nature of the beast' if I'm going to use an airbrush. If you've stumbled on any of my previous posts, I'm recently retired and have accumulated a number of kits and supplies and am getting back into modelling. Unfortunately, a lot of those supplies are enamel paints - Testor's and Model Master. I haven't tried acrylics yet and maybe I should as it seems like it would be easier than handling all that laquer thinner! Keep 'em coming! I'm still waiting for suggestions on mixing/thinning paint prior to
  5. Thanks for your reply. Yes, I am not using a storage tank.
  6. I have a Paasche VL airbrush and D500 compressor that I bought probably 30 years ago and haven't used in maybe 15 years. Decided to break it out this week. I took it apart, cleaned it and set it up to spray water. Looks like its working fine, and now to try some paint. But first I have some questions that date back to my last sessions using the tool. I did a search for 'airbrush techniques and basics' but didn't return any relevant results. I've read that 20 psi is a good starting point for spraying pressure. I have my regulator set to 20 psi at 'idle', but I notice that the pre
  7. VonL - Regarding my last post, I decided not to mess with success and did coat each decal on the sheet rather than spraying a clear coat. As I said in my OP I have a lot of old kits to build so I'm going to be experimenting with these decal coatings. Unfortunately I 'lost' a decal for my F-18 (resulting in my initiating this thread) and I would like to avoid that situation in the future, so I'll probably coat all my decal sheets going forward. Your solution gives me another alternative.
  8. Thanks for all the tips. Nick - you reminded me that I had a bottle of Microscale Liquid Decal Film! Tell you the truth, I wasn't sure how to use this product! I coated a couple decals last night and applied them this morning and no issues! I might try Richard's suggestion next since I'm sure I'll have issues with the rest of the sheet, so rather than 'paint' each decal I can coat the entire sheet. Thanks again guys!
  9. Thanks! I'll give that a try!
  10. I'm working on a Hasegawa 1/72 F-18 "World Hornet" that I started probably 20 years ago. The decal sheet looks to be in new condition, but several of the decals that I've tried to apply fall apart when I go to apply them. I had this happen to a Tamiya 1/35 Sherman, but those decals looked 'checked' on the sheet. We have well water, so thinking that might be the issue (although other than the Sherman decals I haven't had any problems), I tried distilled water with the same result. What I'm doing is soaking the decal in a small tray of water, after a few seconds I'll pick it up by
  11. Hi David. Thanks for your reply; to answer your question, no, I didn't prime the body. Sometimes I do and sometimes I don't. Maybe I should be more consistent if I expect to get consistent results!
  12. I'm working on the AMT 1/25 scale 1953 Corvette model; circa 1996. Its a "snapfast" kit; I've always wanted a model of the '53 Vette and this must have been the only one available when I bought it. Anyway, the body is 1-piece, closed hood trunk and doors, molded in white plastic. I read somewhere that unpainted plastic looks like unpainted plastic, so I paint my car bodies. I shot it with a new can of Krylon gloss white paint and after it dried, the finish was flat! I figured the can must have been mis-labeled, never happened to me but stuff happens... So I finish painting the "
  13. I've always liked their Dullcote and Glosscote finishes for military and car models resp. Will these still be produced?
  14. Not sure if this goes in the Tips & Techniques forum or not, but here goes. Some time ago I was reading a thread about the Model Master line of colors slowly going away and someone mentioned that Krylon made a flat olive drab that you could buy at Home Depot. I was able to find this and it matched both my MM bottle Olive Drab and my Tamiya spray so that was a good tip! So that got me thinking what else might be out there and I bought a couple more as listed below: Krylon Matte Glacier Gray, approx. FS 36628, similar to Camouflage Gray (FS 36622). Rustoleum Light Gray Pr
  15. Thanks for all the comments. I love it how a simple question can generate such diverse responses! I got tips on buying and making cases to suggestions on thinning my collection!
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