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TonyD

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TonyD last won the day on December 28 2019

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About TonyD

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    Assembler

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  • FirstName
    Anthony
  • LastName
    Dangelo
  • IPMS Number
    7784
  • City
    DESERT HILLS
  • State
    AZ

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  1. Thanks for the feedback guys. I did a search on Amazon for Rapidograph and was surprised at the cost of some of them! I didn't notice any that were 'fillable', but will take another look. I did see some sets of pens with different size tips but in a single color (black), and the cost was rather high! I like the tip about red edges on gear doors! Sounds like I should start with a sample and experiment.
  2. I just finished reading Chris Bucholtz' article about his 1/72 Fokker D-VII diorama and he mentioned using a rapidograph pen for the figure details. I had not considered that before! While I do some 1/72 figures - mostly pilots for aircraft models; the majority of my figure work is in 1/32 scale for armor models. This epiphany suggests using pens for eyes and facial detailing, uniform piping, buttons, ribbons, medals etc. Sounds like I will be able to get sharper details with the pens as opposed to paint brushes, sharpened toothpicks etc. So, just looking for other input. What size pens are used? What about felt tip markers? Can one purchase a color assortment in one size pen or marker or do they need to be sourced individually? Thank you
  3. Thanks for the information, Ed! That's a great photo, exactly how I would like my model to look. I think I'll go with the standing rigging/no sails on this one and 'graduate' to furled sails on my next one. I understand your explanation of how they operate now. I'd love to see one in person but I live in Phoenix! I'll have to start thinking about taking a vacation someplace...!
  4. I'm building the Revell USS Constitution and am thinking of finishing it with full rigging but without the (vacuformed) sails provided in the kit. I like the look and I've seen some models displayed like this but am wondering if real ships would have 'bare spars'. Just looking for opinions; would it be more 'correct' to try and simulate furled sails? How would one go about that?
  5. I'm working on an Airfix 1/72 B-26 and would like to temporarily attach the engine nacelles to the wings while I paint the top and bottom surfaces. The engines do not fit very tightly and will fall off if I abruptly move the model. After painting, I want to remove the nacelles, install the engines and propellers into them and then finally set them in place. The parting line is a natural panel line and will not need to be filled after painting. So I'm looking for a suggestion on how to do this. Perhaps a dab of white glue? Some rubber cement (Micro Mask)?
  6. TonyD

    Installing treads?

    Got; it thanks! I'm trying to finish an Italeri 1/35 Elephant that I started 20 years ago (no kidding). As a kid I recall 'walking' the tread on by hooking it on the sprocket and rotating it while guiding the track around the rest of the wheels. When I tried that, the outer half of the idler sprocket popped off on one side and the drive sprocket pulled out on the other. So I ended up doing as you suggested - I installed the track with the 'broken' parts off, then put them back on. Question: is there a 'Hints and Tips' forum? Also, is there a way to do a keyword search in the forum?
  7. TonyD

    Installing treads?

    Recently retired and able to spend time building models and have a question on installing treads onto model tanks. The one-piece vinyl type; pinned joint. I have had issues breaking running gear trying to install the treads after pinning; is there a trick to this or should I wrap the tread onto the running gear and then join the ends?
  8. I have kit no. 3584, 1/35 US Military Police Set (WWII motorcycle), that I bought years ago and the instruction sheet is in Japanese. I am looking for a copy in English. Photocopy acceptable. Thank you.
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