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Ralph Nardone

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Everything posted by Ralph Nardone

  1. When I airbrush it, I cut it 50-50 with Isopropyl Alcohol. It lays down smooth and dries quickly. If the subject itself doesn't have a lot of details molded in, I use a Q-Tip to lay Future down full strength. Either way works well, the full strength self-levels nicely and the airbrush mixture dries with a slight eggshell sheen (still glossy enough for decals, but not a showroom-new shine). Ralph
  2. Yep, all true....you can even use oil washes over it with no worries. I used to use Metallizer Sealer as my clear decal/wash base (it dried to a hard, smooth finish that took deacls and weathering well), but I switched to Future because the smell from the Sealer was more than overpowering. While Future isn't bulletproof, it is extremely friendly and for most purposes works great. Mix in a little Tamiya Flat Base and you get a semi- or full matte finish that you can adjust and tailor to the requirement at hand. Ralph
  3. Sounds like the clear was too hot for the decals. Even some enamels have the power to wrinkle decals.... Ralph
  4. Russell Brown at Airline Hobby Supplies also has the Daco kits: http://www.airline-hobby.com/shop/index.cf...amp;Category=18 Ralph
  5. More on the detailing issue: I learned the judge's art from Peter Harlem, who used to admonish us that just because a modeler crammed every photoetch and resin update they could buy into a kit didn't automatically ensure "Best of Show". All it ensured was that the builder had that many more chances to screw something up! In following the "Basics first" mantra, there will be times when you may want to add a little info for the judges. Here's a hypothetical situation that addresses the issue that "Not all judges know everything about everything": Let's say you've researched an airplane and discovered that the wing root had a gap of 2" between the root and fuselage on the real airplane (many, many WWI fighters had gaps at the wing roots, as did some WWII biplanes). You don't fill that seam. So, it would really help if you had a picture of that feature on the prototype with a note on the entry blank for the judges so you don't get gigged for not filling the seam on the model. I'll echo Gil on the awards thing, too--go, place the model on the contest table, then look at the other models. Talk to the other modelers. Ask questions if you have them. Prowl the vendor tables. Then, when awards time comes, figure that any award you take home is just icing on the cake. If you win, great. If you don't, that's okay too. If you want a critique of your model, ask one of the judges--more and more contests are having a "Judges Q&A" session so that a modeler can understand what they need to work on for the next time. Ralph
  6. Another resource is the Airliner Modelling Digest at Yahoo Groups. Under the files section (you'll have to register to have access), there is a veritible cornucopia of conversion information. http://groups.yahoo.com/search?query=airliner+modeling The basics of the Boeing 737, and the kits to use in 1/144 scale: The -200 is a lengthened -100. Use the Airfix kit with fuselage mods as required. The -400 is a lengthened -300 and the -500 is a shortened -300 (the -500 was intended as a -200 replacement, or so I once read). Use the Daco kits, or the Minicraft kits. Daco's fuselage is shaped better.... The -600, -700, and -900 are all based on the -800 with shorter or longer fuselages. Use the Revell AG kit, modified as appropriate. In order to build a -700 in 1/144 scale, start with the Revell 737-800 kit and make the following cuts to the fuselage: Forward of the wing, but aft of the baggage hold door: Remove 18.7mm (0.74") Aft of the wing, but forward of the baggage hold door: Remove 19.75mm (0.78") Remove the tail bumper and fill the hole. Add filler as needed. Now, if you want to make life easy, check out Contrails Models: http://www.drawdecal.com/contrails.htm The choice is yours.... In 1/72 scale, Welsh/Proteus did some mixed media kits of the MidGen 737's that were quite nice. Aurora did a so-so 1/72 kit of the Classic 737. I don't think anyone has done 1/72 kits of the NextGen 737's yet.... Hasegawa has done several 1/200 737's, ranging from the -200 to the -300 or -400. I don't do narrowbodies in 1/200, so someone else will have to elaborate. Ralph
  7. When they first appeared, they carried a lifetime warranty. A few years ago they changed it to three years. Check with Testors, since yours had been replaced three years ago. I used to be a proponent of the Aztek, but their quality slipped--badly--a few years after they made their debut. The tips go erratic, the bodies leak, and then they changed the warranty. I switched back to my Badger 150 and 200 and haven't had near the same amount of problems that I had with the Azteks as they got older. Ralph
  8. An alternative to the Alclad black primer is the Tamiya spray can gloss black. Dries in about an hour to a nice shine. I'd wait overnight before I shot the Alclad on, but the results are quite nice. Ralph
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