Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


ipmsusa2 last won the day on March 19

ipmsusa2 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

27 Good

1 Follower

About ipmsusa2

  • Rank
    Plastic Habit
  • Birthday 12/10/1942

Profile Information

  • FirstName
  • LastName
  • IPMS Number
  • City
    Ft. Worth
  • State
  • Gender
  • Location
    Fort Worth, Texas
  1. Williams Bros 1/72 C-46 Build Series, Part 16

    Thanks Mark. All comments are much appreciated.
  2. Williams Bros 1/72 C-46 Build Series, Part 16

    Gil, if you check back with one of the early parts of this series, Brett Industries bought Williams Bros after Williams Bros ceased production and moved the operation lock, stock and barrel to Texas. They then tweaked the kit a bit, came up with new decals, changed the boxtop and put the C-46 back on the market. If it hadn't been for Brett Industries, there wouldn't be a 1/72 scale kit of the C-46 anywhere except at astronomical prices on ebay. By the way, since the model is almost finished, it won't be long before this entire build series will be available as an ebook in multiple formats, including a promotion for the IPMS/USA for readers who aren't members.
  3. Installment 16 of my 1/72 Williams Bros C-46 build is now available in the Builds Sub-Forum. Comments welcome as always.
  4. 1/48 A-26B Invader (Memorial build)

    Beautiful job that will be appreciated for many years to come. Out of curiosity, what camera and lens did you use?
  5. Hi all. The C-46 finish line is in sight! Here's the latest shots: The completed starboard main gear. I wound up having to apply BSI IC Gel to the mounting edge of the door, then hold it in place with one hand while applying a shot of BSI Accelerator with the other hand. Definitely tricky and I actually had to clean the cured CA on the door and try it again a couple of times before I got it right. To say this approach is tedious is an understatement of the first magnitude! The same technique had to be used on the tailwheel doors, but with the addition of tweezers to hold the doors due to their small size. The same starboard gear installation from a slightly different angle. The photoetch parts add a lot to the gear door detail and the SAC metal gear guarantees the gear won't be collapsing on you. While I did paint the engine cylinders Model Master Steel, no superdetailing was done. With the props in place, most superdetailing would be obscured. These replacement metal props really add a lot to the finished model. Model Master FS37038 Flat Black combined with Model Master Steel and Model Master FS33538 Flat Yellow produced a very nice result. Still have no idea where my client found them. This decal sheet is from the Brett Industries C-46 kit. Produced by Scale-Master, it's a state of the art sheet with markings for four different aircraft. For the subject of this model, all that was needed was the four star and bar national insignia, wing walks and some white tail numbers that my client sent from another sheet. Update from my client: The metal props were produced by a now defunct aftermarket manufacturer in the UK and were specific to the C-46. National insignia and wing walk is seen here on the starboard wing. The Solvaset seen adjacent to the model was used to snug the decals down. By the way, my ebook "How To Make Your Own Decals" covers the subject in extensive detail. You can find a copy of it at Scale Publications.
  6. P-3C

    First of all, welcome! As for your P-3C, it is absolutely outstanding.
  7. Williams Bros 1/72 C-46 Build Series, Part 15

    Understand what you're saying, Gil. In this case, painting the boots afterwards was the better way to go partly because I normally don't preshade and partly because the Williams Bros kit doesn't lend itself to preshading in the first place. Richard
  8. Installment 15 of my 1/72 Williams Bros C-46 build is now available in the Builds Sub-Forum. Comments welcome as always.
  9. Here's the latest on the C-46: Once the Future has dried, the deice boots were masked off with blue painters tape. Depending on how you like to work, you could mask the boots on the bottom of the wing and then paint'em before... ...tackling the top, leaving the tail surfaces for last. I chose to mask all of the boots at one time and then.... ...spray'em with Model Master FS37038 Flat Black in a single session. By the way, here I'm using a Badger Patriot 105 double action airbrush that I had to buy after losing the needle cap from my Iwata HP-CH airbrush so I could keep working while waiting for a new cap to arrive. With all the tape removed, we have a very nice set of deice boots on the undersurfaces.... ....and on the uppersurfaces. Now to give her some legs to stand on. The tailwheel strut/wheel is a single assembly, so I brush painted the tire first with Pactra M-1 Scale Flat Black or any Scale Black of your choosing. Then the assembly was installed with BSI Super Gold + CA. Don't be surprised if you have to either thin down the mounting shaft or slightly enlarge the mounting hole. The Scale Aircraft Conversions main gear have been completed by the addition of the torque links. When installed, you'll want to make sure that the links point to the rear and the end of the axles to the outside. In this photo, the starboard strut is on the left and the port is on the right. The retraction link in the SAC metal set is where you'll run into trouble. The links are handed, so the mounting recess for the strut connection should be handed as well. Scale Aircraft Conversions has been notified and is checking stock to see how widespread the problem is. If you have one of these problem sets, the solution is easy. Simply drill the mounting recess all the way thru with a .031" (or 1/32") drill bit as I've done in this photo. Note that you only need to do this to two of the links. Here you see the complete SAC starboard main gear properly installed. All it lacks is the wheel/tire and doors And a very tight shot of the same completed assembly. Yet another shot of the same starboard gear from the opposite side. The gear doors laid down on a couple of pieces of tape, just prior to spraying the Model Master FS36270 Neutral Gray. When dry, flip'em over, spray some more Neutral Gray and you're done. All that's left is to install'em. Since you can't stick a toothpick or matchstick thru the axle hole to hold the tire for painting, due to the photoetch outer wheel detail, I used the same approach as the gear doors. Paint was Pactra M-1 Flat Scale Black. Incidentally, that paint hasn't been around for a very long time, but I still happen to have a 35 or 40 year old bottle that's perfectly good. But any Scale Black or Grimy Black paint will produce the same results.
  10. Clare, since they updated the forum software, navigation is somewhat different. When you go to the Aircraft category on the forums page, you will find the word Builds in a smaller font indented underneath the Aircraft name. Click on that and you'll be taken to the Builds Sub-Forum and you can select the subject of your choice in the usual manner. Hope this helps. If not, give me a shout and I'll see what I can do to get you there. BTW, the direct URL is here.
  11. The latest installment of the C-46 build series is available in the Build sub-forum. Check it out at your convenience and remember, comments are always welcome.
  12. Hi all. Getting close to the end but had to take a breather due to my wife's surgery and an airbrush blowing out on me. Now for this installment: Williams Bros doesn't give you any of the small antennas and masts, which is probably a good thing. This is primarily because of the immense variety that were employed on the C-46. They do provide some reasonably decent patterns on the instruction sheet and tell you to fabricate them from scrap plastic and wire. What they don't tell you is that one of the 'masts' holds a pitot tube at the bottom and you will need two of them. It also doesn't hurt to have experience scratchbuilding minute details and an OptiVisor will be an absolute necessity. This photo shows the two pitot tubes/masts that I built from .030" x .060" Evergreen strip and .016" music wire. The finished pitots/masts are too thin to drill a hole for a mounting pin, so I cut mounting holes in the fuselage. Check you references closely for proper location and keep your eyeball computer nearby. The best I can offer for location is about .40" aft of the rear canopy edge and .90" below the bottom canopy edge. Each mast angles out so that the two form a wide V when viewed from the front. When properly installed, this is how they should look. Incidentally, they are not leaning back. That's the result of the camera angle. You want to be sure that they are perfectly vertical when viewed from the side and form a V when viewed from the front. Almost finished with the basic paint job. Model Master FS34087 O.D. uppersurface and FS36270 Neutral Gray undersurface. With the basic paint job done, a gloss coat of Future (aka PFM) is sprayed prior to decal application. Before the decals go on, I'll also have to install the gear, as well as paint the deice boots and fine details.
  13. Noel, from what you're saying it sounds like MCM is dying by the inch and it's only a matter of time before the last nail is driven into the coffin. What will finish them is when the remaining subscribers decide not to renew when their subscriptions expire.
  14. Glad I've helped. One final comment: Do not take anything I've said as 100% gospel for every publication or publisher. Finally, my experience/knowledge only applies to U.S. publications/publishers. International copyright is a totally different ballgame that can vary from country to country. Also, photographic copyright and use don't necessarily follow the same path as manuscripts. Again, it depends on the magazine. The copyright is always yours, but be sure to check how the publication/publisher handles purchases/use. The last magazine I wrote for has no restrictions on the photos. I can use them anywhere I want to without crediting them as a source. Others have different rules. So always check. If you want an example of how crazy some of their logic...or illogic...can be, I produce a CD-ROM on the Lockheed P-38 Lightning (WW-II fighter aircraft) that contains over 350 photos, including a substantial number of original Lockheed photos. I have their permission to use the photos on the CD, BUT if I sell a print from one of the images on the CD, I violate their permission. Reason? If I sell the CD containing all of the images, I am NOT the source of the photos. BUT if I sell a print from one of the CD images, I AM the source of the photo! Go figure.
  15. Noel, no, no, no. When you write an article, that is your copyright, henceforth and forevermore. It doesn't matter if you sell the article or give it away, it's still your property. However, if they use the article, then they own it IN THE FORM IN WHICH IT WAS PRINTED. BUT you still own the copyright. If they buy all rights, then you can't reproduce it in any form without their permission. If they buy only first rights, then you are free to market the article anywhere else BUT NOT IN THE EXACT FORM IT WAS ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN. In other words you can market the manuscript and let the next magazine lay it out however they choose. You also need to let the next magazine you submit it to know that it has been previously published and where. Fail to do that and you will be considered unethical. Another situation you run into is when a magazine buys all rights but doesn't care what youi do with it after two months. I spent several years writing for a magazine under exactly those conditions. The only thing they objected to would have been if I published it in another publication word-for-word without their being acknowledged as the original published source. Change it up significantly and lthey didn't care. Hope this clears things up a little. Let me know if it doesn't.