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ipmsusa2

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About ipmsusa2

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  • FirstName
    Richard
  • LastName
    Marmo
  • IPMS Number
    2
  • City
    Ft. Worth
  • State
    Texas
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    Male
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    Fort Worth, Texas

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  1. Thanks Gil. Those side windows are tricky because they're a butt joint all the way around, leaving you with minimal contact surface for cementing.
  2. As promised, Part 8 of the Kinetic E-2C 2000 with revised photos is now available for your viewing pleasure. You can ignore Part 8 and 8A. As usual, comments are not only welcome but encouraged.
  3. Hi all, Here's the latest on the E2C 2000. The canopy was masked with Montex Mini Mask (# SM 48321). Not only do they fit perfectly, you get a double set so you can mask both the inside and outside if you choose. I got mine from Sprue Brothers, but the Montex website is montex-mask.com. One advantage to Kinetic's canopy approach is that it includes a section of the fuselage. Since the canopy isn't a perfect fit...probably the result of a replacement part due to a short shot in the kit...it allows you to putty and sand any problem seams with relative ease. Incidentally, unless the Kinetic policy has changed, when you request a replacement part, they won't acknowledge the request. Just send the part when they get around to running the kit mold again. This means that your needed part will eventually show up in your mailbox anywhere from a few weeks to a couple of months or more later. Remember I said the wing fold joints and nacelle/wing joints fit perfectly? Well, they do. Mostly. But when I looked close, I found a slight step in the starboard wing step joint and a similar problem with the nacelle/wing joints. This is likely the result of the kit parts fitting as tightly as they do and it's something you need to watch out for. In any event, the problem isn't severe and can be taken care of without losing much if any surface detail, which can be easily restored. The port wing j´╗┐oint, nacelle area just took a little sanding and no putty at all. Whether the bulged side window...which is a separate piece that has to be installed before mounting the canopy...shifted during canopy installation or I simply screwed up the initial installation, I can't say. In any event, I had to carefully cut out the window and reinstall correctly. As it turned out, at least on my kit, the window was slightly too large to fit properly so it took several test fits and very gentle trimming to get things right. The eight-blade props are built up from a pair of four-bladers. Each blade also has an engraved leading edge that needs to be painted steel. Checking references, the steel sections appear to be everything from dark steel to bright aluminum. How much of this is due to light reflection and/or viewing angle I can't say. So for model purposes I chose to go with Model Master Metalizer Non-Buffing Aluminum. In an earlier installment, i installed brass tubing in the nacelles in preparation for removable props. To complete that system, I installed a length of 3/32" (.094") tubing in the back of each prop. Length of the tubing doesn't matter, within reason, and you'll have to align the new shafts with ye olde Mk. I eyeball computer. Done right, they'll spin like a whirligig if you hold the model in front of a fan. One of the eight-blade props completely finished. The white tips are decals and are designed to fold over to create white tips both front and back. It works for the most part, but you'll probably need to do a little bit of touchup on the back with Model Master Flat White. I did. And of course manufacturers logos go on the front of each blade, positioned so that the beltline of the logo aligns with the bottom line of the steel/aluminum leading edge. The decals from the kit sheet are appropriately thin, but they take a long time to release from their backing sheet. Since there are a total of 32 decals for the two props, you should plan on a relatively extended decal session. Also, I wound up using tweezers to handle and position all of the logos and some of the tip decals. The side windows have been corrected and reinstalled. The canopy section/fuselage seam has been eliminated. Last but not least, Finally the nose cone was added. The nose cone is indexed with a locator pin. As a result, the bottom part of the seam is a perfect fit but the top seam requires a little sanding to bring things into line. With that done, all that's left is a final shot of primer, finish paint and decals. Incidentally, 'all' is not as simple as it sounds considering the large number of decals.
  4. Tried to get the latest installment in before a doctor's appointment. Will repost when I get back with better photos. Tried to add ten photos and had to reduce the image size which resulted in lower quality/grainy appearance. My apologies.
  5. Hi all, Here's the latest on the E2C 2000. The canopy was masked with Montex Mini Mask (# SM 48321). Not only do they fit perfectly, you get a double set so you can mask both the inside and outside if you choose. I got mine from Sprue Brothers, but the Montex website is montex-mask.com. One advantage to Kinetic's canopy approach is that it includes a section of the fuselage. Since the canopy isn't a perfect fit...probably the result of a replacement part due to a short shot in the kit...it allows you to putty and sand any problem seams with relative ease. Incidentally, unless the Kinetic policy has changed, when you request a replacement part, they won't acknowledge the request. Just send the part when they get around to running the kit mold again. This means that your needed part will eventually show up in your mailbox anywhere from a few weeks to a couple of months or more later. Remember I said the wing fold joints and nacelle/wing joints fit perfectly? Well, they do. Mostly. But when I looked close, I found a slight step in the starboard wing step joint and a similar problem with the nacelle/wing joints. This is likely the result of the kit parts fitting as tightly as they do and it's something you need to watch out for. In any event, the problem isn't severe and can be taken care of without losing much if any surface detail, which can be easily restored. The port wing joint, nacelle area just took a little sanding and no putty at all. Whether the bulged side window...which is a separate piece that has to be installed before mounting the canopy...shifted during canopy installation or I simply screwed up the initial installation, I can't say. In any event, I had to carefully cut out the window and reinstall correctly. As it turned out, at least on my kit, the window was slightly too large to fit properly so it took several test fits and very gentle trimming to get things right. The eight-blade props are built up from a pair of four-bladers. Each blade also has an engraved leading edge that needs to be painted steel. Checking references, the steel sections appear to be everything from dark steel to bright aluminum. How much of this is due to light reflection and/or viewing angle I can't say. So for model purposes I chose to go with Model Master Metalizer Non-Buffing Aluminum. In an earlier installment, i installed brass tubing in the nacelles in preparation for removable props. To complete that system, I installed a length of 3/32" tubing in the back of each prop. Length of the tubing doesn't matter, within reason, and you'll have to align the new shafts with ye olde Mk. I eyeball computer. Done right, they'll spin like a whirligig if you hold the model in front of a fan. One of the eight-blade props completely finished. The white tips are decals and are designed to fold over to create white tips both front and back. It works for the most part, but you'll probably need to do a little bit of touchup on the back with Model Master Flat White. I did. And of course manufacturers logos go on the front of each blade, positioned so that the beltline of the logo aligns with the bottom line of the steel/aluminum leading edge. The decals from the kit sheet are appropriately thin, but they take a long time to release from their backing sheet. Since there are a total of 32 decals for the two props, you should plan on a relatively extended decal session. Also, I wound up using tweezers to handle and position all of the logos and some of the tip decals. The side windows have been corrected and reinstalled. The canopy section/fuselage seam has been eliminated. Last but not least, Finally the nose cone was added. The nose cone is indexed with a locator pin. As a result, the bottom part of the seam is a perfect fit but the top seam requires a little sanding to bring things into line. With that done, all that's left is a final shot of primer, finish paint and decals. Incidentally, 'all' is not as simple as it sounds considering the large number of decals.
  6. ipmsusa2

    Repair Assistance Needed

    Hi all, I received a phone call from a 78 year old gentleman in Norwich, NY. His grandson damaged a Sopwith Camel model...knocked the top wing off...and he needs it repaired. Wingspan of the model is approximately 15" and was purchased ready built. It is not a kit. It isn't practical for him to ship it to me in Texas for repairs, so I would like to put him together with someone in the Syracuse/Norwich/Binghamton area who would be willing to do the repairs for him. Anyone interested, please reply to my email at tennexican@gmail.com and I will provide the gentleman's name and full contact information.
  7. ipmsusa2

    The Duke's Latest Aircraft

    Nicely done, Duke!
  8. ipmsusa2

    Future E-Book Subjects?

    Gil, Another possibility would be the different variants of a single type, though that could get out of hand with the F4 Phantom or F-111. One I'm currently planning takes three Monogram kits of a single type and building three variants. One more or less out of the box and the other two with most or all of the aftermarket bells and whistles.
  9. ipmsusa2

    Future E-Book Subjects?

    Gil, You raise an interesting point. I'd have to limit a single ebook to three or maybe four subjects or the ebook would take forever to finish. For example, Building the Monogram 1/48th Medium Bombers. That would be the B-25, B-26 and A-26. It's an interesting idea and something I'll strongly consider. Of course there would still be single subject ebooks, so I'd appreciate your ideas there as well.
  10. ipmsusa2

    Adam Savage is cool!

    Kevin, What's really frustrating...and worse than recasting...is when a company takes a resin casting of a conversion part that no one else has ever produced and copies it. Not by recasting the part so that it is the same size, but by vacuforming OVER the part so that their vacuform version is larger than the original by the thickness of the plastic. Of course the customer ends up with a part that doesn't fit the way it's supposed to. I've had that experience and...as you state...there is very little that can be done about it unless you have the deep pockets to take the person/company to court.
  11. ipmsusa2

    Adam Savage is cool!

    The question of recasting has parallels with piracy in E-book publishing. As with recasting, anyone who wants to can copy an ebook, even to the point of claiming it's their own work. Most authors, and I suspect most sculptors, simply tolerate the pirating...unless it gets out of hand....as another form of advertising. The bottom line is that there is no practical way to prevent pirating of ebooks or the recasting of aftermarket products short of taking each person who does it to court. Given the legal fees involved versus the potential income lost of the recast item in question, it's a lose-lose situation for both the author and sculptor. About the best we can do is publicize the fact that the practice of recasting and ebook piracy is both immoral and unethical. As others have said, making a few copies of a part for yourself is acceptable and I would think no sculptor would have a problem with it. After all, it would be unreasonable to expect someone to buy a second $100 kit in order to get duplicates of two parts that they need. But selling those copies...especially with the intention of making a profit, is another thing entirely.
  12. ipmsusa2

    Future E-Book Subjects?

    In order to find the best direction for my Modelbuilding Guide E-book series, I need some input. Specifically, what would y'all like to see in the way of step-by-step single subject e-books along the lines of my recent Williams Bros C-46 and upcoming Kinetic E-2C 2000. Primary interest: Preferred scale: Classic kits with aftermarket upgrades: Latest & Greatest Specific kit of interest: Other comments: To see what I've already covered, please see scalepublications.freeyellow.com
  13. ipmsusa2

    Putty, Putty, Who's Got The Putty?

    I just talked to Squadron and learned that there is an entire batch of White Stuff that was bad. They are now in the process of correcting the problem and will replace any bad tubes if you contact them. If you use White Stuff, regardless of where you buy it, call Squadron and they will replace it no questions asked.
  14. A rather interesting problem has recently surfaced. My tube of Squadron White Putty went bad in the tube. Picked up a new tube...new package, redesigned tube layout...and when I opened it the putty wasn't putty. What I got was a watery fluid instead of the usual solid putty that should have been about the consistency of thick/stiff toothpaste. The shop where I bought it gave me another tube. Same result when opened, only this time it was a hazy gel. As a backup, I stopped by an auto supply to buy my old reliable spot 'n glaze putty. The counter guy didn't know what I was talking about and finally showed me to the Bondo area. Fine, I thought, since Bondo is one of the companies that makes the putty. What I thought was a tube of the putty came with a tube of hardener so you had to mix them. According to the guy, no one carries the putty any more except for shops that sell to professional auto body shops. Finally went to another auto supply and they actually had another version that was actually had what I was looking for. Had to find it on my own, though, because this counter guy...when I said putty...looked like a deer caught in the headlights as he repeated putty with a question mark. He had no clue. Bottom line is that you normally used the red spot 'n glaze putty as I do, you'd better lay in a few extra tubes. I suspect the stuff's going to become a little hard to find. Incidentally, Testors used to offer a red putty that was exactly the same as what I was looking for. They no longer offer it, of course.
  15. For the most part, I deal with the kits my clients provide. When I have to it comes from the net but buy locally whenever I can. As for supplies of all kinds, the net is the last place I'll go, though I've been forced into it a couple of times lately. What I'm wondering about is where downloadable ebooks fall. Depending on how that shakes out, I could very easily be put out of business since I do offer a How-To Modelbuilding Series. There is, of course, one thing we have to keep in mind. Those who sell on the net are usually exempt if their annual sales are below a certain amount....such as $50,000 or $100,000. There are a slew of small etaillers who will never come near that level.
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