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ipmsusa2

IPMS/USA Member
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ipmsusa2 last won the day on October 20

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About ipmsusa2

  • Rank
    Plastic Habit
  • Birthday 12/10/1942

Profile Information

  • FirstName
    Richard
  • LastName
    Marmo
  • IPMS Number
    2
  • City
    Ft. Worth
  • State
    Texas
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Worth, Texas

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  1. Let's see, Tom, this is strictly from my personal personal perspective and everyone else may have a different experience. I've been writing how to articles, books and ebooks...along with kit reviews and client buildup commissions...for several decades (whew!) and I've never really been concerned with the "go lighter" question. Most of the time I've used FS colors out of the manufacturer's bottle...generally Pactra Scale Flats, Model Master, Floquil, etc. Sometime I mixed the needed color, usually by eyeball. Bottom line is that my goal was to produce something that simply looked 'right' and left it at that. Apparently I've done something right because I've never been accused of my models being too dark or most clients being dissatisfied with my work. But, today everyone seems to be concerned about one or two drops too much or too little to any given color when that one drop difference is next to impossible to be seen. Of course, there are situations...and Dak has discussed this...when the situation is exactly as described in this thread. Whether or not this applies to you, I can't say. What it all comes down to is whether or not you're happy with what you build...unless you build for contests and have a burning desire to be better than anyone else on the planet. THEN the question of scale effect, "go lighter", etc, will be of extreme importance. Just my seven cents worth, adjusted for inflation and experience.
  2. David, you and I are on the same page but stating it differently. Note that I said "slightly' darker tone. I fully agree that colors can be too dark to look "right". As you are certainly aware, any given 'real' paint will look progressively darker the smaller the scale becomes. A shade that is acceptable on a 24th scale aircraft or tank would be impossibly dark on a144th scale version of the same aircraft or tank.
  3. For all practical purposes, it really doesn't matter that real autmotive paint or real aircraft paint is a slightly darker tone on a smaller scale model. UNLESS you're promoting your finished model as having a visually authentic appearance. When I was using real two part urethane out of 55 gallon drums straight from the Bell paint shop on 32nd scale models, the slightly darker tone...if it was enough to even notice...didn't matter to anyone. The only thing that DID matter is that the model looked like the subject in question, NOT whether the paint was two shades or maybe three shades too dark.
  4. Ah, yes, those were the days. I used to be able to get DuPont Lacquer in 1/2 pint cans, custom mixed to chips I brought in at my local DuPont paint store. Paint was $3 or $4 bucks or less and the thinner was around $7 a gallon. Painted a lot of models, particularly helicopters for Bell, that way. Then Bell started supplying the real two part urethane out of 55 gallon drums..... Now it's becoming a snipe hunt to find enamel model paint. And expensive, too.
  5. Agreed. And I would suggest that sloppy construction would be at the head of the list. Just because someone produced a fabulous model or diorama, that doesn't mean it should get a pass for glaringly open seams, glue smears on a canopy or window or a thumbprint in the paint. O.K., I'm being somewhat facetious, but you get my point. At the opposite end of the spear would be those details that are kinda, maybe, probably wrong but that fall into the artistic license category. For example, a tow chain that's just a tad too, big or small for a tank or truck.
  6. David, "we" was intended as a generic inclusive term. Each person has their own standard, as it should be. Unless I have a client who obsesses over a specific color or tone...and I had a Star Trek fanatic who did..."good enough for government work" is close enough. I have stated many times in columns, articles and print books that we as modelbuilders build representations, not replicas. It would be impossible to do otherwise due to reduced scale, manufacturing limitations, etc. The object, if we're honest with ourselves, is to create a finished model that looks like the real thing as much as possible. This applies to both standalone models and dioramas/vignettes.
  7. And to think we wear ourselves out trying to match an "accurate color chip" on our computer screens when no two screens will produce identical colors. Got an actual color chip? Then we have to determine how long it's been exposed to the sun...or artificial light...or out of the light...or..... The bottom line is that no one...not even the experts...can tell you anything beyond what the color is supposed to be. The reality, Robin, is your situation and thousands more like it. The best any of us can do is get as close as possible and leave it at that,.
  8. What can I say, David. Everything you and I say...as well as everyone else who has commented on this thread...is absolutely correct. Which comment/observation applies depends on the particular moment and the specific project's reason for being.
  9. As for the question of what part of modelbuilding do I enjoy? It depends...and varies from one project to the next. Building for a client? Then the client controls the answer. For a magazine article or print book? Then it depends on the deadline and how much space I have. Many, if not most, of my article subjects look better in print than they do in person due to limited time. And no, I'm not Shep Paine reincarnated, so I can't produce one of his Monogram dioramas in a month's time. Building for myself? Depends on the mood I'm in. Producing a model for one of my Modelbuilding Guides? Then I pay attention to everything from seams to details to aftermarket additions to paint to research to research to research. Building for an IPMS/USA Nationals? Haven't been there or done that and probably won't...unless I can figure out a way to make San Marcos in 2020.
  10. Beautiful! Bob, you made my point...and my day. What shade of O.D. Green is this guy? Your choice.
  11. Something I had not done for my original post on the death of Testors..which turned out to be a mistake...was to check on clear coats. The enamel #2936 High Gloss Clearcoat in a spray can no longer exists, though you can still get a 1/2 oz bottle of Gloss clear enamel. On the lacquer side, automotive lacquer sprays have dropped from 32 to 19. And that includes their 2 part system colors that require Ultra Gloss Clear Coat for a proper finish. Gloss Classic White lacquer and the required clear coat are two of the dearly departed products. But, you can still get the Wet Look Clear and High Gloss Clear. At least for now. Yeah, I know. I can hear you asking about Dullcote and Glosscote. They're still on the Rustoleum website, along with the same products in 1 oz bottles. But for how long is another question., So why am I carping about the disappearing Model Master/Testors paints? Because between the time I started an ambulance for a client and getting near to having it done, paints that I'm using on it have disappeared, making me change horses in midstream. Worse, an article on the same project is having to be revised to incorporate the paint changes, as well as using valuable editorial space to let readers know what's going on.
  12. One man's accuracy is another man's accuarcy. This is particularly true when you build for clients. Worse, my Williams Bros C-46A was taken to task in a review for the shade of O.D. on an O.D./Neutral Gray scheme. Their comment? I probably did what many modelers do, grabbed what I had on hand. Believe me, in a discussion on accuracy, you can't win for losing.
  13. As I said in and earlier post, hobby shops get their products from distributors. One of the main ones in the U.S. is Stevens International. It's one of the major sources for the Hobby Town chain, Hobby Town being the shop where I keep seeing an expanding number of 'discontinued' stickers on Model Master Enamel paints. Out of curiosity, I checked the Testors list of available Model Master paints in the standard 1/2 oz bottles. Including certain colors that are listed by Hobby Town as discontinued...and including automotive colors...there are a grand total of 72 colors available to order. That's 22 fewer bottles than I listed in my initial post, when the count was 94. Worse, keep in mind that NO Metalizer colors were listed on the latest Testors website, but 11 are listed on the Stevens International site. That means that the non-metalizer MM colors have dropped by an additional 1/3 to 61 instead of 94. By the way, the original Testors website...testors.com...is still up and hasn't changed one whit, while the one that you have to access thru the Rustoleum site is more reflective of what's readily available.
  14. Hang in there, Mark. I know I'm running slow getting to the True North paint, but my wife's recovery from knee replacement surgery has slowed things down considerably. Finishing an ambulance for a client and will then turn my attention to True North.
  15. Joe, I started another thread here in the early part of September about True North. I had just gotten a number of colors in and had not had a chance to used them yet, mainly due to my wife's second knee replacement surgery. Still haven't gotten to them, but I did open a couple of bottles. Just from the appearance alone of the paint in the bottle, it appears that it is very similar to Model Master. Based on the True North website and a telcon with their president, I have a very positive first opinion of the product. I will be using the paint for my next ebook and will also report in this forum about my experience and opinion. Richard
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