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Ralph Nardone

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Everything posted by Ralph Nardone

  1. To add to what has been said, don't use a lot of water--it should be more like a stiff dough than anything else. Add a generous blob of white glue to the mix, and apply it in thin layers. Depending on the substrate, it may take a few days to dry completely. If you want to try something else, try Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty, available from Lowe's and The Home Depot. It is a dry powder that can be mixed with water to different consistencies. For general coverage, mix it to the consistency of cookie batter and spread it with a putty knife. To fill gaps between items that have been cu
  2. It could be as easy as altering the language from "Decals other than those included with the kit may be used" to "Alternate paint and markings schemes are permitted." As for items like the Quinta cockpit details, they may be printed on decal paper, but I see them as the plastic evolution of photoetched parts. That's just me... Cheers! Ralph
  3. Kapton is used as an electrical insulator. At one time, it was used for the insulation on aircraft-grade wiring. It is light, but is not able to withstand abrasions, and once scored it tended to split. One airplane I re-wired had wiring that looked like beads on a string... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton The tape is available through Amazon and several other sources: https://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-Yds/dp/B006ZFQNT6
  4. Durham's is a DIY filler. The beauty of it is that you can control the consistency of it by mixing in more or less water. Less water, you get a thick putty; more water, you get a pourable, pancake-batter consistency. Each has their uses. Back in the day, FineScale Modeler ran a series of articles by Ray Anderson called "The Art of the Diorama" (and later compiled them into a book). He would use Durham's for his groundwork. We followed suit on our 1/72 scale Fire Support Base now located at the South Carolina Confederate Relic Room and Military Museum. Read about it here (click thro
  5. The site design they used two or three re-designs before the recent revamp was good, but the most recent site designs sucked rocks. And the initial attempt at a website was horrid, even in year 2000 terms.
  6. I first became aware of Squadron through their ads in the late 1970's in the old Challenge Publications rag "Scale Modeler", and I first ordered from them in 1983. From 1983 through the mid-1990's, they were my go-to. Then I started working in a hobby shop (Warrick Custom Hobbies in Plantation, FL) where I could get whatever I wanted by tacking it on to a stock order, and had no use for mail order (or, as became more frequent, online purchasing). I moved in 2001, and the next time I used Squadron was in 2005--what a marked difference. Shipping prices were through the roof (not 100% Squadro
  7. As folks have stated already, cost is a matter of personal perception. We had a member of IPMS/Flight 19 many years ago who would not, under any circumstances, purchase a kit if it retailed for over $20. It didn't matter if it was a kit of his favorite subject, $20 was his line in the sand, and that would usually include the paint he needed for the project, too. Meanwhile, another member would routinely spend at least $100 on any model he built--by the time you totaled up the cost of the kit (and the kits be built were usually at that same $20 point), the aftermarket (and remember, this was
  8. I never said it was--I merely mentioned that modelers who want to game the OOB rules make that claim--they feel they "need" to include ignition harnesses or deck railings to make their model "accurate". And I also said that OOB, for an experienced modeler, is automatically a compromise, since the OOB rules box you in on what you can or cannot do to the model, where as the Open categories allow you freedom to do whatever you wish. Honestly, I can think on no plastic modeling organization that (officially) uses accuracy as a yard stick. Every now and then, I see a claim from IPMS folks a
  9. The other alternative--one I favor, and one I've discussed on this forum before--is to limit out of box models to being just that--out of the box. Period. No added seat belts, rigging, spark plug wires, etc., unless it comes in the kit and is shown on the instruction sheet. Aftermarket decals should be allowed, but that's as far as it really should go. People then argue along the lines of "well, the model will seem to be lacking if I don't add seat belts" or "it won't be accurate if there are no railings" (that one still confuses me, since, last time I checked, accuracy was not a jud
  10. At one time, Mike Roof had a full photoetch course on the AMPS Central South Carolina website, and he's offered his seminar at the 2019 and 2019 IPMS/USA National Conventions. I can't seem to locate it now, but here are a few inks to some other PE techniques he's compiled: http://nebula.wsimg.com/50bec1f44d3264a5e6b906dbcc9fb03a?AccessKeyId=390FC1B05917598DCDF5&disposition=0&alloworigin=1
  11. You are correct. According to scalemates.com, Monogram issued the re-worked Aurora kit in 1979. I built an ESCI A-7D kit while I was in college back around 1985, and the wings were badly warped. Try as I may, I could not get them to straighten and stay straight, despite hot water treatments and brass tubing spars. I actually bashed a friends old Monogram effort (even he described it as a "glue bomb") for the wings. The final result wasn't too terribly bad. The model met its demise during a move, IIRC, and I has shifted all my jets to 1/72 scale by then... Cheers! R
  12. The story goes that Monogram wanted to do more to refine the Aurora molds, but the material that Aurora's tool makers used was quite hard and difficult to re-work. They did what they could, and given that it wasn't until 1977 that ESCI graced us with a better kit (although many will debate how much better, and they only did the A-7D and A-7E, like Hasegawa did a decade later), and 1987 when Academy/Minicraft gave us another 1/48th scale F-111, the old Aurora kits carried on quite well. Nice work, the finish is quite nicely done! Cheers! Ralph
  13. Along with Richard's advice, look at what the other authors do in their articles and take your cues from them. You'll eventually develop your won style, but in the beginning it helps to have a trail guide, so to speak. Another thing I do--once I think the article is finished, I save it and revisit it the next day. I usually find that I need to tweak some aspects of the text. If you have someone else who could give it a read-through, do it. Two sets of eyes are better than one... Cheers! Ralph
  14. Artists' Matte Gel Medium works, too. Thin it with distilled water, if you feel the need. Ralph
  15. Nice. I loved that series of models as a kid. I was glad to seem them being reissued, even in their "un-Disney" guises.
  16. That is one of the USCG's P4Y-2G's, and that SAR nose was peculiar to them. Nobody I am aware of makes this as an aftermarket canopy set, so you'll have to make a form (buck) and thermoform one. It isn't as hard as it sounds--the buck can be made from wood or air drying clay. You'll want the buck to be slightly smaller than the final item. When you have it shaped, make sure it is smooth and then seal it with a few coats of a clear gloss until it is smooth and shiny. Make some sort of provision to add a dowel "handle" on the back side, then securely clamp the handle in a vice. Take a she
  17. René Leduc certainly loved his ramjets. Nice work! Goes to show, those Model Building 101 skills come in handy! Ralph
  18. I'll play... My models on display. The Hasegawa Beaufighter illustrates part of my "Model Building 101" seminar, as does the Revell Voodoo. The other two were long-term projects that finally got off the bench and on to display bases--the Hasegawa F-111F was built as "KARMA-52", the aircraft lost during Operation EL DORADO CANYON, and the ER-2 is Special Hobby's kit. They're all in 1/72 scale: The helicopters--four Hasegawa UH-1H Iriquois, and an Italeri OH-6A Cayuse and CH-47 Chinook (backdated from CH-47D to a CH-47C "Super C") for the Fire Support Base RIPCORD proje
  19. IMPORTANT NOTICE THE 3rd ANNUAL SOUTH CAROLINA SCALE MODEL MEGA SHOW HAS BEEN CANCELLED Our show committee met this past week and made our final decision for the 2020 South Carolina Scale Model Mega Show: We have decided to cancel the show this year. There were several underlying factors, but South Carolina Governor Henry McMaster's Executive Order 2020-21 was the prime reason we made this decision. Contained in the EO is this passage: …I am directing additional emergency measures in response to the threat posed by COVID-19, to include temporarily prohibiting rest
  20. I used British Interior Green. It is a close match.
  21. But Tamiya doesn't make a 1/32 F4U-4 kit...
  22. I usually set my pressure with the trigger depressed--it gives me more of an idea what the pressure at the gun will be when I'm spraying. I used to return thinned paint to the original jar, until I had several jars solidify or turn to jelly on me after a day or so. I learned then that if I wanted to save extra paint to do so in a clean jar, that way the original won't be compromised. I've had this happen with both enamels and acrylics, the lacquers don't seem to have this issue. I use acrylics almost exclusively these days, so after each color I'll start by spraying cleaner throug
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