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ghodges

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. Very sharp looking, and it captures the exotic (and I'm sure expensive) look of the car! GIL
  2. Very cool and exotic! Do you have a pic from the side all closed up? GIL
  3. Very sharp progress! Those gear bays are a nice touch. Are they kit parts, or did you get some aftermarket for this? GIL
  4. And in support, I stand firmly with Nick, like the tower of Jello we are.....😉 GIL
  5. Got ya...and you had me at "Embassy Suites".....😉 GIL
  6. I'll add my kudos to Dukes! I also agree that it's too bad it never saw production. Congrats on a sharp looking Tigershark! GIL
  7. Great looking Vindicator! Yet another I've yet to get to in the stash.....Congrats on getting to yours! GIL
  8. Not sure where your question lies.... If it's a complete KIT (as in ALL parts provided for a the model), 3D printed examples are not permitted to be entered; just like die casts or flying models. Personally, I support this rule addition since we're an organization that promotes the BUILDING of models from kits; not the simple painting nor remarking of fully assembled models from others. This is also in compliance with the rule that demands that all of the work on any model entry be entirely our OWN. Thus, a scratchbuilt model must be entirely our own work (except for tires, props, guns, etc. as noted in the rules); which would rule out a 3D printed example. Personally, I do not think that a modeler who loads some scale plans into a computer, translates that to a 3D printer and prints the model (even if done entirely by themselves) is doing what WE do: assemble, paint, and finish plastic model KITS. Nor does it involve or call for all of the skills needed to scratchbuild a model as demonstrated by the competition who does not 3D print. If it's a CONVERSION set (be it one or more pieces needed to change a KIT), then 3D printed parts ARE allowable, and are considered to be like pe or (more closely) resin cast parts used in a conversion. The second part in your citing merely defines a conversion using a parameter of complexity and the degree of work needed to complete it. So, adding a entirely new wing to a plane (whether 3D printed or cast in resin) might constitute a conversion and go in the conversion category. But, adding more detailed "featherless" exhaust cones (3D printed or resin cast) to an F-15 model would not be enough work nor a significant change to the model and thus could still be entered in the F-15's regular competition category. Hope this helps and I haven't misunderstood your question. GIL
  9. Who/where is the "San Marco TX" club? There's no TX chapter listed under that name, nor does any of the TX chapters list a San Marcos as their home town.... The only "San" club seems to be IPMS Alamo Squadron in San Antonio. GIL
  10. Super looking Shooting Star! Love the scheme, and your skills sure made that old Monogram kit shine. Congrats on finishing up a project. GIL
  11. GREAT pic! Welcome! Glad to have you here. Your story sounds just like the majority of us. Looking forward to seeing your work in the topics below. Jump in ad enjoy! GIL
  12. Probably won't make Phoenix this year...going to England next week for one daughter's wedding and then another one is getting married in September in Philly. So, between those two "vacations" I'll have to skip the Nats. But I've already told the 3rd daughter that IF she gets married in 2019, it will NOT be on the weekend of the 'Nooga Nats! 😉 GIL
  13. Loving that A-10 Duke with so much hanging from it. It's amazing....your accomplishments with your "low battery" light flashing still surpasses my year long builds! Got ya on my prayer list for a complete recovery and at least enough energy to sit at the bench in the meantime bro! God bless! GIL
  14. Excellent build! Nice to see an older model brought up to snuff, and you're skills really made it shine! GIL
  15. ghodges

    1/48 F-15D Eagle

    Got the presentation base done today, complete with a pic of him and his fellow docs on the wing, as well as a cockpit selfie... GIL
  16. I built this for one of my dad's doctors, who is a surgeon in the Air Force Reserve. He's gotten a few rides in the backseats of F-15s when the Air Force needed to get him and his skills somewhere quickly, and expressed his desire to have a model of one like he'd been flown in, with FANG markings. I used the Nice Revell 1/48 F-15E Strike Eagle to build this model. I simply left off the conformal fuel packs, bombs, and a few other parts to backdate it to a "D". I wasn't worried about total accuracy, since it's not a contest model; nor about getting a particular tail number duplicated since he's simply looking for a representative Eagle. However, I did hang some missiles on it, as the pics he supplied from some flights made in Eastern Europe showed the planes to be armed. The Revell Strike Eagle kit goes together very well and quickly, and was enjoyable to build. I used MM paints for the camo, pencil for the panel lines, Tamiya wash for the vents, and Bullseye decals for the FANG markings. The FOD and exhaust covers are from Steel Beach. Comments, critiques, and questions welcome. Cheers! GIL
  17. Very relaxing way to take in the show! Thanks for sharing! GIL
  18. Like your varied shading in the finish. Congrats on another unique addition to your collection! Gil
  19. Not sure about any official color for the yellow, but most any bright yellow that looks close to the same as the borders in your decals should suffice. As I recall, I used MM bright yellow on mine. Hope this helps! Gil
  20. I agree with Duke...that new IP really adds some zing to that 'pit! GIL
  21. Looks good! And now that your model is built, Ginter has just released a very nice reference book on the Vindicator! Not that the AM kit needs much help...and it looks like you got the most from it too! Congrats on getting back to the bench! GIL
  22. First thought is to remember that everything is relative in a 1-2-3 contest. It's not just what you do, but how it COMPARES to what else in on the table that day. In that vein...unpainted plastic is unimpressive. It's not an automatic demerit (so to speak), but it says the modeler didn't do as much as his competition. That white plastic may indeed have looked pretty good on face value, and is designed to be so. It's engineered to be used unpainted and ease construction for the general buying public. However, that does NOT apply to modelers who want to compete. While it may look good, bare plastic can still show the spots where it was trimmed from the tree. Even if those nubs are cleaned up properly, without polishing those areas will still show up as being less glossy than the bare plastic. A coat of paint covers such things as those (and molding swirl marks, etc.) In the end, a modeler who chooses to use unpainted plastic leaves himself open to more problems in judging than if he paints the piece. It's not that it can't be done. But, it's very hard to do so and make it match up against the competition. GIL
  23. Love it when people decide to use some elbow grease and tackle an older kit. Looking forward to seeing more! GIL
  24. You sir, are an artisite! Not only do you have an amazing ability to sculpt, but you also have an eye for great poses! GIL
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