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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. The only thing I can add to my first reply is that when he's vended at our show, and I've looked at his castings, I've seen no evidence of poor or shoddy quality. I cannot speak to their accuracy nor to their fit, as I don't buy a lot of resin stuff in general. But, everything I saw on his tables for sale looked very comparable to other resin aftermarket parts I've seen. Many resin casters go through an evolution with their products (Lone Star Models comes to mind)....their first offerings aren't always top notch and their quality control may be a bit lax in trying to get as much return for their efforts as possible to get themselves up and running. However, over time they MUST improve if they want to compete with the rest of the market. They have to improve their techniques and upgrade their casting equipment (vacuum/spin casting is a MUST these days!) or be totally outclassed by their competitors. John: You didn't say how long ago you got and used those parts, but I'm hoping it was (perhaps) at the beginning of GT's business. I too think you should follow DM's advice and contact GT to let him know how bad your experience was. Return those parts you didn't use so he can see for himself where the problems are. I'm betting he'll send you new ones. If not, you're no worse off and will have truly confirmed your suspicions. GIL
  2. Do yourself a favor....and do NOT try to be too exact. You'll save yourself a LOT of headaches and simply find paints that are indeed in the "ballpark", even if their FS# doesn't match the instructions in the kit. Most of the common paints are available from any number of manufacturers in enamel or acrylic. Keep in mind that the actual "color" as seen in daylight would vary according to how it was mixed and applied, by its age and degree of exposure to the elements, and what those elements were. OD Green faded considerably differently on planes in North Africa versus the Pacific versus here in the states. There's "depot fresh" paint jobs and then well worn paint jobs depending on time in the field. You can call up period color pics of any group of subjects and find variations in the finishes from one to the next sitting immediately beside one another! This is not to say that there aren't any standards. People have expectations, which appears to be your chief worry in trying to get it "right". My advice is NOT to be so worried. Most paint lines are in the ball park and you can then make adjustments as you see fit to make them match what YOU think looks right. Anyone who tries to tell you you're wrong is actually admitting they don't really know what they're talking about! Lastly, if you're truly concerned, then find a picture of your subject and copy it to the best of your ability. Someone may question your result, but you won't be so far off that you can't show that pic to validate your finish. Since you say you're new to the hobby, my advice is not to stress out too much over being so precise. If it says "OD green", or "Brown-Violet #81"; then find that paint and use it without worrying whether or not that manufacturer got it exactly correct. After all....it'll be the same paint (for the most part) most every other modeler uses! Hope this helps! GIL
  3. Just reminds me of the old sayings: "where there's a will, there's a way"; and "necessity is the mother of invention". It's nice that we do have better ways and materials these days to reproduce markings that aren't available. It's also nice to know that there are "old school" methods we can fall back on if and when needed. Thanks for the reminder! GIL
  4. My first question to you is: what did the instructions for these sets say or imply? Do they say "drop fit replacement" to the kit parts? If not, then surgery is at least implied, if not required. Second, ALL resin castings shrink to some degree, the only difference being how much. So, even if your parts are supposed to be a drop fit, I suggest you double check the fit as some minor adjustments may be needed. Between my friends who've used GT items and what I've read on the internet, it's a real toss up. Some of them fit remarkably well, while I know of people who've sworn off ever purchasing from GT again. Best of luck! GIL
  5. Bookmarked for future "entertainment"...:) GIL
  6. Do you have any plan besides being VERY careful to avoid knocking those fiddly bits off while painting, decalling, and finishing? GIL
  7. The Eboard said they would ACCEPT bids for 2 and 3yrs out from this point on. However, if clubs don't come to a show with a bid for any one of those years, there's nothing they can do about it. The announcement was made to allow for easier future planning AND to allow "bidders" to (perhaps) co-ordinate a bit between each other. I have to guess that Neither Las Vegas nor San Marco could lock in any dates except for 2020, and thus had to bid against each other. Also, we have to guess that other rumored bidders such as Portland and Omaha were not ready to make an actual bid at this convention, and thus we don't get any early planning for anything beyond 2020. Not to open a can of worms again (and NOT looking to start a debate), but the more the Eboard controls more parts of the Nats show, the easier it will be to stick it in one city and go there year after year. The manpower "problem" for the show can be solved. We're starting to run short of any "new" bidders, and starting to rotate between many of the repeating hosts anyway; so the idea of rotating the show for the benefit of reaching all sectors of the country is pretty much kaput at this point. GIL
  8. Lots of tasty bits there that will add much to the look! What are you gluing them all in place with? VERY neatly done! GIL
  9. I'm no expert on HOW 3D printing is done, and I can take your word that the "skills" used to design and print a bust are on a par with someone who takes a lump of clay and then shapes it by hand. But, I bet you're going to have a hell of a tough time selling that to the public and to sculptors! This is the same battle that brush artists have to wage with computer designed and printed art in the larger "art" community. You may be right, but I can see IPMSUSA being hurt by this if it's pursued. Once more...I'm of the opinion that IPMSUSA needs to be as inclusive as possible, within reason, for people who do what WE do. However, being inclusive JUST to add memberships and dues is not a direction I think we should go. I just draw the line a lot closer to where we are now as opposed to many others! GIL
  10. In my mind, again, it boils down to being able to fairly judge the skills applied to one media of model versus a different media. A 3D printed, once piece bust may pose NO problems, simply because the techniques that are judged are exactly the same; clean-up and painting. The exception to that might be in a "scratchbuilt" figure category, where a HAND SCULPTED bust should not have to compete against a computer designed and printed one. I've been to locals and regionals that have allowed "other" types of models into their contest, and it's next to impossible to fairly judge them. The techniques for assembly and finish can be radically different, and in some cases (pe models for instance), there's NO finish on them! As long as we can accurately and fairly judge what's on the table, we can be inclusive. But, to allow other media types into our contests, especially the IPMSUSA Nats, JUST to try to be more inclusive and grow our membership is a bad move in my opinion. GIL
  11. I totally agree that there's a huge difference in building a 3D printed KIT consisting of multiple parts and requiring the use of the same techniques needed to assemble and finish a common plastic kit, and the designing and finishing of a 3D kit the is one or 2 pieces. In my mind the difference lies in something already "completed" versus that which requires normal building. As for materials, I'm in the "plastic" camp. We're IPMSUSA, and we were established as a group of people dedicated to the building of plastic kits; not paper kits, not wooden kits, nor metal kits. Thus, I'm in favor of allowing 3d printing for items that ENHANCE plastic kits and, since plastic is used to feed and create a 3D printed item, I equate it as an equal to resin, and thus a full KIT would be acceptable. While I understand IPMSUSA wanting to try to be as inclusive as possible, I do think we need to draw the line somewhere that retains the essence of WHO we are. GIL
  12. Since no one replied, I've cancelled my room outright. I hope everyone who can make it to Phoenix this year has a rockin' time! GIL 😎
  13. Yet another great looking build of a British plane I've never heard of! Questions: Did you paint the yellow stripes or are they decals; and what are those grid-like markings on the wings just inboard of the ailerons? The crisp result belies the work needed on such a crude limited run kit! GIL
  14. Nice save on those old Aurora decals. That'll make for a great looking livery! GIL 😎
  15. That standard F-5 seat is not unlike the F-102 seat....if you're looking for resin ones, you might check those out to see if they would be useful. GIL 😎
  16. That's purdy.......and looks ready to launch! Excellent job. I'd have guessed you used commercial aftermarket decals with the fantastic result. GIL
  17. Dandy looking Duster! What did you use for the brass on the shells, and for the"blue" vision ports? Nice job! GIL
  18. Our club is having an F-4 Phantom build, so I built this one. This is based on a color rendering by Lou Drendel in his 1977 SS book "Phantom II". I used a Hasagawa 1/48 F-4EJ kit for the build, leaving off the optional recce pods and later ECM gear. The German F-4F was essentially a stripped down F-4E without Sparrow missile capabilities when they were first bought. Since the drawing in the book shows an unarmed plane, I built mine that way, and saved some work too! I had a spare True Details F-4 resin tub and some resin seats, so I added those. I also scratchbuilt some intake covers which not only block off the too short intakes, but add some color too. Steel tubing was used for the pitot tubes in the tail fin and on the nose. The camo was done using paper masks with bits of tape on the back which lifted the paper just off the surface. That helps give a soft, tight edge; though some touch up was needed from getting the airbrush too low and spraying a bit under the paper masks in spots. The markings came from spares box. The only trick here was many of them were 30-35yrs old and didn't have much adhesive left! I had to "Future" many of them in place, which not only set them, but also help suck them down into the panel lines. The panel lines were done in pencil, while the grills were accented with Tamiya wash. The NMF areas in the rear were done in Alclad Dark Aluminum and Titanium, while the exhaust cans were simply sprayed with Metalizer buffing Jet Exhaust. I've been meaning to build this Phantom for a couple of decades, so it's fun to have gotten this one done! Comments, critiques, and questions welcome. Cheers! GIL
  19. Not going to be able to go to Phoenix after all. Two of my daughters have weddings this summer and it's eating up all my vacation time (and money). Anyway, before I cancel my room outright, does anyone need it? I haven't heard that the hotel is sold out, but if it is, I may be able to help you. You can email me at: slowhandshodges@bellsouth.net if you need to do this. Thanks! GIL
  20. That's some sharp looking detail! Gil
  21. ghodges

    Uther Pendragon

    Very nicely done! Love the movie Excalibur! GIL
  22. Good progress, and congrats on getting your outer vertical tails on right....I didn't! GIL
  23. Very nice Vampire! Thanks for letting us tag along! GIL
  24. Welcome! Jump right in and make yourself comfortable! Glad you're here! GIL
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