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Everything posted by ClareWentzel

  1. Like Gil says. A majority of airbrush problems relate to the brush not being cleaned properly and/or the paint not being thin enough. Fill your brush with thinner and try to paint a sample part or even paper. if this works well than probably your paint was not thin enough.
  2. Looks good Gary. It sure looks a lot like some of the products that they used to make in Northern Indiana. Well done plus a good series of "how-to" steps. Our of curiosity, What the heck do you use black pepper for in building models. ;-)
  3. Our club has two FB pages in addition to our web page. One is a public group run by one of our members, but you have to be a member to post. It is used for general comments on new tools etc plus reminders of upcoming meeting subjects, contest reports and general comments. The other is similar run by our treasurer. Since starting these FB accounts, much less is posted on the club web site.
  4. I just received a note from Fred Medel of Tamiya America, He said "In the article it’s mentioned the other texture paints are discontinued. Actually, we are in the process of bringing those to the US market as well. They are currently available in Japan, but we need to have the remaining texture paints tested and relabeled for the US market requirements. Hopefully really soon…. Fred" Something to watch out for.
  5. Ray, just a quick question. Why are you not looking at enamel paints? I have probably over 150 bottles of Testors Model Master paints. They offer a complete range of colors for specific uses and general colors. I like enamel paints because I feel that they stick to the surfaces well. Also, I had bad experiences with some of the early acrylics causing fish-eye effects when the plastic still had a little bit of release on it. I use lacquer thinner to thin most of these colors. It does a great job of thinning and helps the paint stick even more. For most of the colors, I thin them about 50% in the spray cup. I use a small paint brush to mix the paint and the thinner and then I wipe the brush on some newsprint paper. If the mixture is too thick, or too thin, you can usually tell on how the paint stripe looks. Testors also has a line of Metalizers that are listed for airbrush only. I always spray these out of the bottle without a problem. Note, I have Pace Enterprise paint booth that keeps the basement from getting full of fumes.
  6. One area to look is at the WW I Modeling page; http://www.wwi-models.org/ If nothing else, go online with the group and ask for the info that you want. I am continually impressed with the knowledge in that group.
  7. Quote I think that over time, as you attend more and more shows, you'll find that while the contest is fun, the camaraderie and friendships you make combined with the fun of shopping the vendors outweighs any awards you might take home. Best of luck! GIL :smiley16: Unquote I agree with Gil completely. One other thing to remember is that most model contests have a vendors' area tied in to the contest. These are usually the largest hobby shops in the state for the day. Lots of great stuff - new kits, old kits, accessories etc.
  8. I too use lacquer thinner to thin paint to that I can spray it. I also use it to clean the brush. I do NOT use it to thin paint in the bottles. Like Ron side, that causes them to turn into a congealed mess. I have a pint of Testors thinner to thin paint in bottles. HTH
  9. Welcome back to the hobby John. That is a spectacular model. Thanks for sharing.
  10. Ray, it sounds like you are really getting into plastic modeling. I am sure that you are enjoying learning new techniques, tools and materials. One key thing to remember is you really only have to please one person - yourself. When you look at your finished model, smile and see all of the good things about it. Also, don't be afraid of entering contests. you will see models that you will say are not as good as yours while others are really spectacular and maybe beyond your capabilities. Just enjoy your models.
  11. Well done Gary. I loved that car. I believe that I was there watching it qualify and then I saw the race at a local movie theater. That was the practice in those old days. ;-)
  12. Check out the hardware stores. Clothespins now come with their tips dipped in a soft vinyl material. This reduces their chance of sliding off plus it protects the surface of the model. One down side is that if you use them to hold items being painted, the tips tend to become sticky after a while.
  13. I recently bought this compressor from Micro-Mark. http://www.micromark.com/whisper-air-compressor,12331.html It is pretty quiet. I have it on top of my desk, next to the spray booth. I was not too happy with it's low pressure feature. Effectively, it just lets excess air out. I use it connected to a separate air bottle with a pressure regulator attached to the brush connection.
  14. Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas. Looking forward to a Hobby New Year. I will, my lovely wife got me a gift certificate to Hobby Towne. Like I need more kits but the new ones always look so good.
  15. Michael, I send out a lot of notices to the vendors who supply the items for review. Expanding the titles like you suggest would make some of the messages kind of sloppy. Also, how hard is it to click your mouse two times? ;-) The scale is always at the top of each review. One click, note the scale, second click, return to the list.
  16. Really nice job. Love it. I will have to check it out.
  17. Scotch Quick Dry Adhesive works well also. It gives a strong join. (Info picked up at our club meeting last night)
  18. I use enamel paints for most of my work. The reason is that I have a vast collection of different colors and am too cheap to pitch them all to buy anything else. Also, I tried some acrylics when they first came out and had lots of problems. Enamel is easy to spray and I thin it with lacquer thinner. I use flat acrylic as a final top coat usually.
  19. Ray, in simple terms, most model paint is flat or semi-gloss. When you apply decals over a flat surface, you can see a cloudy color below any clear area of the decal. Also, the decal will not stick as well. In effect, flat painted surface is a series of microscopic peaks and valleys. The decal sticks to the peaks. Future floor wax fills the valleys and gives the surface a smooth shiny surface. The decal will set down fully over a future coated surface. Also, once the model is coated with future, you can use acrylic paint for weathering and to bring out panel and control surface lines. Anything extra can be readily cleaned up with a wet q-tip. If you prefer a final flat appearance, then coat your model with flat acrylic after all your work. Hope this helps.
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