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Everything posted by ClareWentzel

  1. Thanks for the comments guys. No David, I do not use a light cube. I kind of built this set-up on the cheap. Having said that, the overhead lamp is florescent with a plastic sheet under it that does quite a bit of diffusing. Check the shadows on the last photo. They are soft edged. However, the lamp is reflected on the cowl of this very shiny model. When I get serious about a specific photo, I break out the four clamp on lamps. I use 23W spiral florescent lamps for this usage. If I have too strong a shadow, I will hang a piece of tracing paper over one or the other lamps. Yes, indeed.
  2. I had always used some sort of temporary background for taking photos of my models etc but was never satisfied with the results so I tried to make a background holder that was easy to use. I wanted to use 32†by 40†matt board as the background because of the different colors available and the strength of the product. To mount the matt board, I used a scrap piece of ½ inch plywood that I had in my basement. The scrap was 30†by 48’’ so I cut it into two 30’ by 21 ¾â€pieces. I used a piece of piano hinge to attach two parts and added braces to prevent them from opening past 90 degrees. I also added some pieces of ¾ inch wide flat molding to the edges opposite the hinge so that the matt board can be snapped into place. The 21 ¾ inch lengths allow the matt board to fit in place with a flat base and back with 4 to 5 inch radius at the base. I added a handle and a clasp so that the photo base can fold up compactly and fit next to a wall. Photo 1 is the base folded. Photo 2 shows the base open. Photo 3 shows the base with a piece of matt board in place ready to put the model for photographing. Note, I would normally have used a 32’ wide piece of plywood for the project but the scrap that I had worked just as well. As far as lighting is concerned, I have a strong light above the table I use plus the flash of the camera tends to soften shadows. If I need really good lighting, I have four clamp on lamps that I can attach to the corners of the base. Here is a model in place.
  3. Sorry about that, I thought your name was called for that one too.
  4. You're welcome. Great Bird of Prey!!! Why don't you show the good people your Maus Trap. :D It was fantastic.
  5. What scale? MicroScale made a number of them in1/72
  6. It sounds like Alclad had a batch (or more) of bad gloss black primer. As an update, my F-80 looked good after I sprayed it. HOWEVER it is now showing a number of thin cracks in the surface. The model is just for fun plus I have the decals started so I will complete it and put it on the shelf but the next time I use Alclad, I will use Future. Thanks guys.
  7. One other material to try is lighter fluid. It is not as "hot" as some of the other solvents and it will take the adhesive off. I use a q-tip VERY Carefully. Try on a scrap or a remote area of the model first.
  8. They go back a ways but Profile Publications number 92 covers the F3F series. One of their profiles covers VF-6 of the USS Enterprise. Some of the photos show Enterprise birds also.
  9. Gil, it looks like all of the clear decal areas were invisible. I think that you said that the tail markings has broad clear areas. They are all invisible. Great job as usual. The seat and the seat belt details really make it jump out.
  10. Very nice Gil. Love the markings. The SNJ on the fuselage seems to have worked great. The tail looks great. Is there a slight change of color under the HL on the left side of the fuselage? No complaint, just not sure what I see. Clare
  11. Right. I can't believe that I watched "Mystery Science Theater 3000 - The Movie" last night on HBO.
  12. I know how you feel. I have lost some parts under my fingernails.
  13. Getting back to your thread, the first "Thing" really didn't show the monster in any detail. It was up to the imagination. Same thing with the "spaceship". And you can call me Clare :)
  14. I agree with the comments on most of the older films. Could it be that in the old days before all of the computer graphics, the writers and directors had to build the suspense in the minds of the viewers, not the eyes? A person can always imagine a more horrific situation then can be shown on the screen. The great pictures used that a lot. It goes back to the old Infocom games where they advertised that they put the story "where the sun doesn't shine" and they showed a picture of a brain.
  15. No, I used the old SNJ paints and then added SNJ powder over the top. I buffed it to a pretty good shine. The decal was applied over the top. You have given me an interesting comment, however, I will add a coat of Future over the top to see if it changes the tone to the one under the decal.
  16. Nice job Gil. It makes the fuselage jump out. Again, be cautious with fuselage decal clear areas.
  17. Very nice Dick. Great job. Is that the design that has a little set of gears in the prop so that it will counter-rotate when you turn the blades? I seem to remember this from childhood.
  18. Gil, Gil, Gil, I love SNJ powder but you have to be a little careful. The reason that I asked the question in the first place is that I tried a similar approach with an SNJ finished model, complete with powder. I expected the transparent decal to disappear but it didn't.
  19. OK. Just to bring everyone up to date. I painted the Alclad over my still slightly tacky black alclad primer. The Alclad dried very hard and smooth. Now I am ready for the next step - applying decals. I would suppose that you can apply decals directly over the Alclad but I want to be sure. On a normal model, I would apply a coat of Future to make sure that the clear parts of decals disappear. I would think that the surface of the Alclad would also make the transparent decal areas disappear but I have seem problems on other NMF models. So the basic question is; Can I apply decals directly over Alclad or do I need to apply a coat of Future to make sure that the transparent areas disappear and/or do not change the tone of the Alclad.
  20. Mike, Heat & Smash is a simplified method of simulating a vacu-formed part. I suspect that most people who use the technique, use it to make canopy parts. If you have any old issues of the Squadron catalog, they usually show how to "Heat & Smash". Page 95 of the 2006 catalog shows the technique. You start with a piece of styrene sheet. Squadron sells clear sheets for the purpose. First, you make a master. For a canopy, it can be the thick kit part that you want to replace. Mount the master solidly. Usually I fill the canopy with clay and then stick a dowel in the clay and clamp it in a vise. Then, you take a sheet of the plastic and hold it over a candle. As the material heats, it will sag slightly in the center. When it is suitably soft, pull the plastic down over the master. Use your fingers to force the plastic down over the canopy frames if necessary. When the plastic is cool, cut your new part out and then finish and mount it. I will use the technique when I want to show an open canopy and the kit comes with a closed one. Simply use the "Heat & Smash" part for the rear and the kit part for the front. I suppose you could use the same technique for such things as gear doors etc. HTH.
  21. Thanks all for the comments. I have come to the conclusion that I have a bad batch of primer. I have had it in my spray booth for 4over 4 days with the fan on. The model is still slightly tacky. I am just going to apply the Alclad and see how it works. The model is just an old F-80 for Paul Bradley's display at next year's nats. Jim, will you be attending the nats this year?
  22. Tim, one basic question. Why do you want to attach the model permanently to the base? I usually use bases for my models but except for my P-38, I do not attach any of them to the base. I have never had any problems with people or judges picking the base up and dropping the model. My P-38 is pinned to it's base through the front wheel only. Also, the wheel is not glued to the strut. When I move the model, it is separate from the base and I stick the wheel onto the strut at the contest or meeting etc.
  23. Another recent one that I enjoyed was "League of Extraordinary Gentlemen". I guess it can be classified as Sci-fi.
  24. That's me exactly. I figured that since I was using Alclad, I might as well do it as they recommend. Since it was supposedly lacquer based, how slow can it dry. At least your comment gives me hope. I don't need to start removing the stuff.....now.
  25. How long does it take this stuff to dry? I sprayed the top of my model last night and it is still tacky. I don't feel that I can turn it over to spray the bottom without it sticking to the foam supports. Help. Does anyone have experience with this material?
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