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Everything posted by ClareWentzel

  1. Way to go Bill John. It looked to be an interesting Nats.
  2. Larry used super glue to attach the "flat thread". I haven't tried it yet but I believe that he first fixed them at the fuselage and then feeds them through small holes that he has drilled in the wings. He stretches the thread tight and glues it in place. When everything is dry, he trims the thread off and touches up the painted wing. If a decal is located in the area of the thread hole, he waits until after he finishes the rigging before he applies that decal. It sounds like it really requires some thinking ahead, something that I usually omit. Larry's results really look spectacular
  3. Our club recently had a WW I Biplane challenge and members came up with some interesting methods of adding rigging. One member, Larry Cherniak found some flat thread at the local Jo Ann Fabric store. It is made by the Sulky company and is called Sliver Metallic. He drilled holes and glued the thread in place. It had to be straightened out so it was oriented correctly. It looked fantastic. I have a spool of the thread and am working up the nerve. Here is a photo of Larry's model. Another member used guitar strings while others used stainless steel wire. More details of th
  4. Looks great Dick. It is an interesting looking airplane. If you get a chance to pass by Kalamazoo sometime, we can show you the original. Clare
  5. Going back to Mike's comments on a cardboard box and a fan, check out my simple spray booth. Simple Spray Booth It works well for me although I keep looking at the Pace booths. My problem is that I don't want to cut a hole in my basement wall.
  6. Done. See IPMS Kalamazoo - articles, how-to. I even gave you more background plus an additional photo of the clamp-on lamps.
  7. Actually, your message to the reviewer corps was the impetus that caused me to make the write-up. I wanted some members' comments on the design.
  8. Thanks for the comments guys. No David, I do not use a light cube. I kind of built this set-up on the cheap. Having said that, the overhead lamp is florescent with a plastic sheet under it that does quite a bit of diffusing. Check the shadows on the last photo. They are soft edged. However, the lamp is reflected on the cowl of this very shiny model. When I get serious about a specific photo, I break out the four clamp on lamps. I use 23W spiral florescent lamps for this usage. If I have too strong a shadow, I will hang a piece of tracing paper over one or the other lamps. Yes, in
  9. I had always used some sort of temporary background for taking photos of my models etc but was never satisfied with the results so I tried to make a background holder that was easy to use. I wanted to use 32†by 40†matt board as the background because of the different colors available and the strength of the product. To mount the matt board, I used a scrap piece of ½ inch plywood that I had in my basement. The scrap was 30†by 48’’ so I cut it into two 30’ by 21 ¾â€pieces. I used a piece of piano hinge to attach two parts and added braces to prevent them from opening past 90 de
  10. Sorry about that, I thought your name was called for that one too.
  11. You're welcome. Great Bird of Prey!!! Why don't you show the good people your Maus Trap. :D It was fantastic.
  12. What scale? MicroScale made a number of them in1/72
  13. It sounds like Alclad had a batch (or more) of bad gloss black primer. As an update, my F-80 looked good after I sprayed it. HOWEVER it is now showing a number of thin cracks in the surface. The model is just for fun plus I have the decals started so I will complete it and put it on the shelf but the next time I use Alclad, I will use Future. Thanks guys.
  14. One other material to try is lighter fluid. It is not as "hot" as some of the other solvents and it will take the adhesive off. I use a q-tip VERY Carefully. Try on a scrap or a remote area of the model first.
  15. They go back a ways but Profile Publications number 92 covers the F3F series. One of their profiles covers VF-6 of the USS Enterprise. Some of the photos show Enterprise birds also.
  16. Gil, it looks like all of the clear decal areas were invisible. I think that you said that the tail markings has broad clear areas. They are all invisible. Great job as usual. The seat and the seat belt details really make it jump out.
  17. Very nice Gil. Love the markings. The SNJ on the fuselage seems to have worked great. The tail looks great. Is there a slight change of color under the HL on the left side of the fuselage? No complaint, just not sure what I see. Clare
  18. Right. I can't believe that I watched "Mystery Science Theater 3000 - The Movie" last night on HBO.
  19. I know how you feel. I have lost some parts under my fingernails.
  20. Getting back to your thread, the first "Thing" really didn't show the monster in any detail. It was up to the imagination. Same thing with the "spaceship". And you can call me Clare :)
  21. I agree with the comments on most of the older films. Could it be that in the old days before all of the computer graphics, the writers and directors had to build the suspense in the minds of the viewers, not the eyes? A person can always imagine a more horrific situation then can be shown on the screen. The great pictures used that a lot. It goes back to the old Infocom games where they advertised that they put the story "where the sun doesn't shine" and they showed a picture of a brain.
  22. No, I used the old SNJ paints and then added SNJ powder over the top. I buffed it to a pretty good shine. The decal was applied over the top. You have given me an interesting comment, however, I will add a coat of Future over the top to see if it changes the tone to the one under the decal.
  23. Nice job Gil. It makes the fuselage jump out. Again, be cautious with fuselage decal clear areas.
  24. Very nice Dick. Great job. Is that the design that has a little set of gears in the prop so that it will counter-rotate when you turn the blades? I seem to remember this from childhood.
  25. Gil, Gil, Gil, I love SNJ powder but you have to be a little careful. The reason that I asked the question in the first place is that I tried a similar approach with an SNJ finished model, complete with powder. I expected the transparent decal to disappear but it didn't.
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