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PeteJ

IPMS/USA Member
  • Content count

    719
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PeteJ last won the day on May 20 2017

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About PeteJ

  • Rank
    Styrene Junkie
  • Birthday 11/05/1949

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Marcos, Ca.

Previous Fields

  • City
    San Marcos
  • State
    California
  • FirstName
    Peter
  • LastName
    Johnson
  • Local Chapter
    San Diego Model Car Club, IPMS
  • IPMS Number
    45343
  1. F-4D interesting photo

    Gil, then this is me four years later. September 1973
  2. F-4D interesting photo

    This may be an interesting photo that I have from a long time ago. I believe it was taken in 1968 but it could have been a year earlier. That is me in the backseat and a good friend of mine in the front. We were on a ROTC field trip. It was taken in Tucson, Az at the repair depot. Notice the severe abuse of the paint. Now it would have been repainted before it left but I thought you all might like to see the wear and tear that SEA took on the aircraft.
  3. Flying to Nats

    One caution about light plastic containers. Make sure you have them vented. A very small hole or two in the lid will do. In spite of what you may think, there are significant changes in air pressure in an aircraft. Typical cabin pressure altitude is around 9,000 feet. Going up will cause the lid to pop open and if it gets resealed it will cause the case to compress. A friend had a model damaged when the lid compressed enough to crush a model. That is why I suggested the better case. They have pressure relief valves on them.
  4. Flying to Nats

    Well, this is not all that difficult. Rule #1 pack all your tools, glues and paints in your checked bag. None of that stuff will make it through carry on. Sharp object and flammables are a huge no no! Rule #2 when you pack up your models think about having to open them up and show them. Don't wrap them in anything as you will have to unwrap them. A good choice is a camera case with "pick and pluck" foam. Here is Pelican cases web site as and expample of the ganera of case that is easy to pack models in. These are not cheap cases, but there are similar cases that are less expensive. http://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/watertight-protector-hard-cases/medium-case/air-case/1525/ This is a web site for Pick and Pluck foam again just for example. You can get it cheaper other places. https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-13719/Foam/Pick-and-Pack-Foam-Sheets-24-x-24-x-2?pricode=WB0753&gadtype=pla&id=S-13719&gclid=CjwKCAiA15vTBRAHEiwA7Snfc4z3OylMh81Gq1-5x_tjT0IxjW4LoWLbLnxxz83io2MhQrLf5qkOyxoCR9UQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Packing in this manner will let the TSA person know that you are a "frequent traveler" so they will respect what you say. Packing them in shabby boxes that are string wrapped with duct tape will send another message. Also "politely" advise the inspector that it is fragile! Fragile stickers on the outside will also announce this. Most will be respectful of your models if you are polite and don't disrespect them. Another thing to do and start now, is to get TSA pre approved. This gets you in the TSA special line. You become a "known" traveler and this makes them much less suspicious. The line has fewer travelers in it and the restrictions are reduce, like you don't have to take off your shoes. Because there are fewer travelers, the agents are much less stressed and will treat you better. Here is one last tip and it will be controversial to say the least. If you can afford it, fly first class. You get to board first so you will get the prefered space in the overhead. You have wider seats so the space under the seat in front of you is wider. There is more leg room so you will not be squeezed if you put your models on the floor rather than in the over head. Also your baggage gets priority handling and will be the first off the carousel at the other end. I have found that on cross country flights, if you start now, you can find first class tickets for only a little more than an economy seat in many cases. This isn't always true, but cheap first class tickets are not uncommon. It also is far less stressful to travel that way. Good luck and I'll see you in Phoenix!
  5. Just a follow up, I was in Coast on Friday to pick up some fittings for my Paasche air eraser. Took the staff about 5 minutes to hook me up with a quick release for both ends of the Paasche hose and get it connected to my Tamiya/Iwata hose. I wanted a much longer hose so I could use this thing as far away as possible from any painting that I am doing!
  6. Call these guys and ask them. Hey know everything airbrush. http://www.coastairbrush.com/ Very helpful.
  7. Good to see the meeting notes. I would like to see one change to the process. I think the most critical item that we have is the membership. In reviewing the past board notes I noticed that occasionally the office manager mentioned gain and loss numbers, but never mentioned the gross membership numbers. It is my impression that it is members dues that keep the lights on. I would like to see membership numbers be the first item on each report. Total membership, new members, lost members. I think starting a meeting with this number would keep the eye on the prize so to speak and would serve as a barometer of how well we are doing.
  8. They're not horribly expensive and this one is the "new improved" model. The media isn't cheap though. I just bought two 5 pound jars of Paasche blasting medium(one fine, one course) and they cost me $45 delivered from Amazon. But 5 pounds should last a while.
  9. Well, technically Santa bought it for me, but since Santa and I use the same checking account it qualifies. For those who don't recognize it , it is a Paasche air eraser. Basically a tiny sand blaster. I am going to use it to soften the finish on some aluminum parts I am making.
  10. Bob mentioned taping the decal paper to plain paper for printing and it keyed another tip I use that may be helpful. I buy 8 1/2 by 11 sheets of decal paper and cut them up to fit my 4X6 photo paper tray. Most HP printers have a secondary tray that is for photo printing single photos. This way you have less waste from the decal paper. If you use photo paper for your test print you will get a true color representation as most decal paper is slightly glossy. I don't mind wasting the 4x6 photo paper as it seems that HP always adds a package when I buy larger packs of the 8 1/2x 11 sheets. I have stacks of the stuff and almost never print the old size photos.
  11. Richard, I am running the CS5 version of Photoshop and refuse to upgrade it. I was very annoyed when they went to cloud based subscription. I get use to a program that works and it seems like they change it just to make more money. I'm not going to play that game.
  12. Rusty, good point! Been doing this so long that it didn't occur to me to mention it. Actually I print most of my decals on white as ink jet inks are somewhat transparent and any camouflage or color divisions under the decal with "bleed" through.
  13. Sorry to hear that you are having problems. I've been making decals for years now and am loathe to tell you that specialty decal programs are really not necessary. Any picture printing and editing program will work. If you can scan or import clip art into a photo, you can make decals if you have good decal paper for you printer. With the two hours you have spent on the kit software you could probably have figured out how to do it with the photo editing software that is in Window 10. It is no different than printing photos except you need decal paper(which the kit gave you) and the instructions on how to use it. To be up front with you, I am also a hobbyist photographer and have Photoshop which is far more complex than what you need for making decals. If you want to learn photo printing, you take a tutorial on photo printing(Youtube has a ton of them) you could kill two birds with one stone, learning photo printing and decal making all in one. Both of which will save you a ton of money having someone else do it for you.
  14. I have to agree with Rob about this site being a bit sleepy. This is the first site that I check in the morning and MCMs is second. I always check the "unread posts" It appears that MCW gets more post in an hour than this one gets all day. It also appears to have about 10 times the membership. I did not renew my subscription a couple of years ago, because I was very tight with money and the problems they were having getting the magazine in my mailbox anywhere on the regular schedule concerned me. I also had several friends who wrote articles and shared your experience for getting paid for their work. I subscribed several years before to support them, but as the editions became more and more erratic I really felt that I was throwing my money away. I wish them no ill, as I have always enjoyed the magazine and buy it at Barnes & Noble when I find it. I am a frequent contributor to the MCM website and find is exceptional for the most part. Very busy and full of information. If the magazine dies, I really hope the web site stays up. I wish them well but have contributed enough money to them for now.
  15. Anybody ever seen one of these?

    Dennis, this is what is typically referred as "promo" models. They were sold at the dealers and on display in smaller dealerships to show models that the dealer may not have in their inventory. To the right buyer, they can fetch a pretty significant amount of money. Yours looks to be pristine in the box which makes it very rare! Want to see some heads explode? Go over to Model Car Magazine forum and post those pics. Guaranteed you will have people falling all over themselves to buy it.
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