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PeteJ last won the day on July 8 2020

PeteJ had the most liked content!

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About PeteJ

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    Styrene Junkie
  • Birthday 11/05/1949

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    San Diego Model Car Club, IPMS
  • City
    San Marcos
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    San Marcos, Ca.

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  1. Was giving this a little more thought. I suspect this concept of "It's to expensive" came from our parents. When we were little kids, we would ask them if they would buy us something and often as not they didn't refuse us they just said "It's to expensive" and moved on. They weren't saying is wasn't worth the asking price or they didn't have that much money. They were saying that they had other things that were more important to spend their limited dollars on. We all make these decisions but won't say I can't afford it. Saying it is too expensive is less embarrassing than saying if I buy
  2. You are spot on with the relative comment. When it comes to modeling it is "the price someone else is willing to pay but you are not and it makes you grumpy!"😜 I have often heard people say, " I paid way to much for that kit", but never " I bought a kit that is way to expensive". Frankly, buy many peoples standards, I have kits that are very pricy. I am lucky in that I got a fair number from Tamiya for shall we say "services rendered". One other comment on relativity. The current list price for an entry level Porsche 911 is about $100,000. In 1974 I bought one for $12,000. Back the
  3. Wow! I had forgotten about those clear plastic Aurora stands. Brings back a lot of memories. Thanks
  4. Nothing is preventing you from starting a thread with that title. Don't wait for leadership to run with your idea. Lead and see how many follow.
  5. 555 looks to be pretty common. 556 not so much. Could you use the 555 kit to scratch up something that looks like 556?
  6. I believe that the assumption that someone will cheat seems a little misplaced. Yes, there are those who cheat, but then that can happen in all categories not just OOB. "Group" builds shown as the work of one person. Using parts painted by another is a common complaint in auto categories. And so on. However, I would like to believe that the vast majority of people who enter, play by the rules. I often think the the accusations of "he cheated" is the sour grapes of a looser in the tight contest. The basic tenant of Nationals is that people will be honest and play by the rules.
  7. I think this category causes more questions than any other, but in my mind it is pretty clear. Build the parts that came in the box, according to the directions in the box. Add any paint or decals you would like and you are okay. Try to tap dance around the rules and you are not. If the instructions tell you how to build rigging or seatbelts, follow the instructions and your fine. Granted IPMS category rules have some exceptions by class but you push the boundaries of these at your own risk. Last, keep it simple and show off your basic modeling skills.
  8. It looks like Rusty knows more about the manufacturing process than I so I will defer to him for that. I will start by saying all photo etch can not be soldered easily. Stainless required special flux and solder and even then sometimes it doesn't work. If it is brass or nickel silver then you are in great shape. Easy to solder with silver based solders or lead if you can still find it. Easiest way to tell is to try a piece of the fret and see if it solders. My procedure is to take a sanding stick and sand the surface to be soldered. This removes any odd edges or burrs. It also rou
  9. Great build, nice weathering. The figures really add a lot. The trenches dug by the prop is a really nice touch. Just one negative and I present it with the best intentions. I see nothing that tells the story of why he went down. Did he run out of gas?
  10. Well, life does get in the way of what is important some times. 😜 Welcome back!
  11. With the enamel sources drying up, I really wish Tamiya would start importing their little square bottles of enamels. I managed to get a few out of Japan and they are as good as their acrylics and lacquers. Between their newer jars of lacquer, if they brought in the enamels they would have the model paint market covered.
  12. PeteJ

    F-106 Nose Weight

    I don't know of any local sellers but I just Google woods metal and come up with a lot of places that sell 1 pound ingots or other forms. I would get it from one of the scientific suppliers. I seem to have had better luck with them. To be honest with you, I bought mine a long time ago so I am not sure where I got it. I would bet it was in Pennsylvania for an interesting reason. The maker was using old Hershey's molds. My pieces came looking like single squares off of a Hershey bar. 😆 I originally bought it to use as a low temperature solder. It really works well for that. If you
  13. PeteJ

    F-106 Nose Weight

    Ok, here is a thought for you all. Woods metal is readily available and can be used in models. It has a melting point of about 160 F so well below boiling water. In the case of a nose mount you could melt some(just to a liquid) and place the nose in cold water so it keeps the plastic cool, and pour a little metal in. It will then be a perfectly fitted weight. It is really very close to lead in weight. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood's_metal Like lead the vapors are toxic, so use in a well ventilated space.
  14. All the model web sites I can find list it as a 1973. https://www.modelroundup.com/product-p/amt-38518.htm
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