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PeteJ

IPMS/USA Member
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    910
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PeteJ last won the day on July 8 2020

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About PeteJ

  • Rank
    Styrene Junkie
  • Birthday 11/05/1949

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  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • FirstName
    Peter
  • LastName
    Johnson
  • IPMS Number
    45343
  • Local Chapter
    San Diego Model Car Club, IPMS
  • City
    San Marcos
  • State
    California
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Marcos, Ca.

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  1. Start here. https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-6801/Special-Use-Boxes/Pelican-1510-Equipment-Case 9X14X22 standard for carryon luggage. Pelican is the top of the line. The pick and pluck foam lets you make custom enclosures for your models that hold them firmly but securely. Yes, it is not cheap, but you are trusting you prized models to it. Oh, and Uline probably isn't the least expensive place to buy it. I just use it because it was easy for me to find. It is waterproof and has an air valve to release pressure from the altitude changes that happen when flying. Here is tutori
  2. Stuart, if you did the engine in acrylic then be sure you get the right wash. You want a water based one, not solvent based. You could make your own with a mix of 75% distilled water/25% alcohol. Then just use a tiny drop or two or black and brown paint. You want the was to be very thin. Just a very light bit of color in all the grooves.
  3. Actually I use the thinner that I clean my brushes in. It has kind of a blackish brownish tint to it. Aircraft engines leak small amounts of oil(brown), hydraulic fluid(red) and jet fuel(basically kerosene) and collect dirt. For reference go out an look under your car. The fluid darkens the dirt and gets into the crevices of the engine. When done right it looks like a very subtle shadow at the base of the vertical surface. The flat surfaces tend to get wiped off by the mechanics but they can't get down into the small spaces.
  4. A light wash might highlight the details and bring it to life. I've never seen an engine that clean, not even fresh from the factory.
  5. One thing I have found is that it is easier to subtract than to add. What I mean is when you test fit the pieces and you see that parts are going to have gaps. "Prefill" them. My technique is to use a solvent based putty such as basic Tamiya White and put it along the edge to be joined. Then assemble the piece so the excess putty squeeze's out. Join the unfilled section of the seam with your usual extra thin cement and hold it together as you normally would. Let is dry completely. Do not try to clean it off while it is wet. It will just smear. Once it is dry most of what squeezed out
  6. Not sure what bubble you are busting. I am not relying on "herd immunity" occurring before the convention. I am saying that the vaccination brings the probabilities of becoming ill down to an acceptable level for me to attend a mass gathering such as this. Being vaccinated means two things to me. One, my chance of contracting the virus even after being exposed will be down to 5% or less. The second thing is that by being vaccinated, even if I contract the virus, the effects will be drastically reduced. I also doubt that mask requirement will go away just because we have 80% o
  7. Just got scheduled to get the vaccine tomorrow. I guess I will be back to somewhat of a normal life by the end of March so I will be good to go to Las Vegas! Looking forward to it. Now I just have to get a model built!
  8. Was giving this a little more thought. I suspect this concept of "It's to expensive" came from our parents. When we were little kids, we would ask them if they would buy us something and often as not they didn't refuse us they just said "It's to expensive" and moved on. They weren't saying is wasn't worth the asking price or they didn't have that much money. They were saying that they had other things that were more important to spend their limited dollars on. We all make these decisions but won't say I can't afford it. Saying it is too expensive is less embarrassing than saying if I buy
  9. You are spot on with the relative comment. When it comes to modeling it is "the price someone else is willing to pay but you are not and it makes you grumpy!"😜 I have often heard people say, " I paid way to much for that kit", but never " I bought a kit that is way to expensive". Frankly, buy many peoples standards, I have kits that are very pricy. I am lucky in that I got a fair number from Tamiya for shall we say "services rendered". One other comment on relativity. The current list price for an entry level Porsche 911 is about $100,000. In 1974 I bought one for $12,000. Back the
  10. Wow! I had forgotten about those clear plastic Aurora stands. Brings back a lot of memories. Thanks
  11. Nothing is preventing you from starting a thread with that title. Don't wait for leadership to run with your idea. Lead and see how many follow.
  12. 555 looks to be pretty common. 556 not so much. Could you use the 555 kit to scratch up something that looks like 556?
  13. I believe that the assumption that someone will cheat seems a little misplaced. Yes, there are those who cheat, but then that can happen in all categories not just OOB. "Group" builds shown as the work of one person. Using parts painted by another is a common complaint in auto categories. And so on. However, I would like to believe that the vast majority of people who enter, play by the rules. I often think the the accusations of "he cheated" is the sour grapes of a looser in the tight contest. The basic tenant of Nationals is that people will be honest and play by the rules.
  14. I think this category causes more questions than any other, but in my mind it is pretty clear. Build the parts that came in the box, according to the directions in the box. Add any paint or decals you would like and you are okay. Try to tap dance around the rules and you are not. If the instructions tell you how to build rigging or seatbelts, follow the instructions and your fine. Granted IPMS category rules have some exceptions by class but you push the boundaries of these at your own risk. Last, keep it simple and show off your basic modeling skills.
  15. It looks like Rusty knows more about the manufacturing process than I so I will defer to him for that. I will start by saying all photo etch can not be soldered easily. Stainless required special flux and solder and even then sometimes it doesn't work. If it is brass or nickel silver then you are in great shape. Easy to solder with silver based solders or lead if you can still find it. Easiest way to tell is to try a piece of the fret and see if it solders. My procedure is to take a sanding stick and sand the surface to be soldered. This removes any odd edges or burrs. It also rou
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