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PeteJ last won the day on October 23 2019

PeteJ had the most liked content!

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About PeteJ

  • Rank
    Styrene Junkie
  • Birthday 11/05/1949

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  • IPMS Number
  • Local Chapter
    San Diego Model Car Club, IPMS
  • City
    San Marcos
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  • Location
    San Marcos, Ca.

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  1. I am interested in entering a model for a good friend who recently passed away at the age of 93. He was a highly skilled modeler, but to my knowledge ever attended a national convention. I can find no evidence of his membership in IPMS, but if my memory serves me he had been. He was certainly a member in good standing of our local IPMS club. I would like to bring one of his models and enter it in a regular category to honor him. It there any way to do this?
  2. It is the lacquer. I decant it out of the rattle can to spray it through an airbrush. I prefer lacquer because it drys quicker, polishes up well and sticks to plastic better than water based paints. TS-13 is the clear in a rattle can. You can also get Tamiya lacquers in bottles. LP-9 for the lacquer in a bottle. The stuff in the bottle is thinned 50/50 or more with thinner. Highly recommend that for thinning, use the Tamiya lacquer thinner that was designed for it. Too expensive to use for clean up, but good for thinning to spray.
  3. Tamiya clear over Tamiya primer. Two very light coats followed by a heavy coat. 🤣
  4. This is a two part automotive urethane heavily thinned with reducer. No interaction with either the decals or the Tamiya primer.
  5. Len, how about this one? It might even make an interesting sub-theme. Big Bend Open Road Race. https://www.facebook.com/bborrace/
  6. Well, if your going to get that specific, Laughlin AFB birds. T-41s, T-37s, T-38s. Class 74-02 September 1972-1973!😉
  7. Tamiya white primer with automotive two part clear coat over it. Decaled and then another coat of clear over the decals. Chrome done with Alsa easy chrome.
  8. "Compared to war, all other forms of human endeavor shrink to insignificance". George S. Patton. Personally, I feel that the world would be far better without war, but to ignore the significance and level of commitment is to fail to understand history!
  9. Ralph I would paraphrase a portion of what you said. No, it's not about models or medals. It is about people! The models get nothing out of being put in a contest. 😄
  10. Ralph, well said. When I was younger I was all about winning. As I have aged the trophies became a box a dusty relics. It took a while, but I, like you discovered that the fun of the contest was in sharing a room with a couple of hundred like minded people. The biggest compliment I can get is "how did you do that?" I have found that my attitude plays more into the "fun" factor than the judging method or how others act around me. The more open and inquisitive I am, the more people respond to me in kind regardless of the judging method. I agree that GSB gives everybody feedback and that is good. You don't improve if you can't see the mistakes. I also understand it takes longer to write comments on every entry. It makes judging much more tedious, but it does what we purport on primary goal to be. Encouraging everyone who shows up to improve and have fun. 123 basically crowns a king.
  11. Nick, your sarcasm overwhelms! 😄 I had the same thoughts on the subject, but why not have a higher standard for both nationals and regionals. That is what happens now with a 123 but it is set by the standards of the contest. A BOS and the 2019 show may not compare to a BOS from the 2018 show. As you said it all depends on what shows up. I don't see a diffuculty in having higher standard as you progress up the ladder. I suspect the membership would understand that a Nat's gold was a higher standard that a Regional Gold or a local Gold. In any event each of the shows has a different purpose. By the nature of the audience, the local show is to encourage local modelers to engage with each other and to encourage non-modelers to join the fun. The regional is more to encourage quality builders to sharpen their skills and Nationals is for the best to compete with the best.
  12. Jim, good point but that is a flaw of all judging systems as long as humans are doing the judging. There have been models that won best of show at Nat's and didn't place at other major shows and visa versa. In theory, that shouldn't happen when the criteria are the same, but it does happen for many reasons. One judge(or group of judges) may not see a particular flaw or judge it less significant that another. Nothing works 100% of the time and lord know we have tried. GSB, 1-2-3, points systems, it doesn't matter. Try as you may, you will never remove human bias from the equation.
  13. I also find this an interesting discussion about the shade of paint. Considering that most of what we model is kept outdoors, I honestly doubt that "scale effect" is really the culprit, although I won't suggest it doesn't existence. Having spend many years on a flight line, paint fades with exposure to sun and weather. In a row of aircraft, each painted the the same FS code, you can easily spot the newer painted aircraft in any color. You could also see where repairs had been made by the splotches of dark paint. Often hatches were cannibalized from other aircraft and they would stand out as differant shades. This was especially true of the birds in Vietnam. They got pretty beaten up. The only time they looked "correct" was straight out of the paint shop and then only for a month or so, until the sun did it's work. Even the grays painted on the tankers and some of the naval aircraft had amazingly different shades.
  14. Really? I've been using real car paint for 30 years. Not because it is "the right color" but because it is much cheaper and easier to work with. I have a quart of DuPont acrylic lacquer clearcoat that I have had all this time and it is still good. It is just getting harder to find the real deal lacquer thinner to thin it with. Last gallon of PPG thinner that I bought cost me $85 and I had to go to Arizona to get it, but it is still cheaper, per ounce, than those silly little bottles of "model" paint you buy in the hobby store.
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