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  1. The simple answer to this issue is to stop booking these events in way undersized venues. We need 100,000 square feet and 700 plus room venues. Embassy suites have nice facilities but will never be large enough. Have you all forgotten about our vendors who have to pull out early on Saturday so we can convert the vendor room to a banquet room. We need to grow up folks and realize these facilities may seem priced right but DO NOT meet the needs of our convention. And I will say it $55 for convention registration is like the national minimum wage. It is not keeping up with the times and severely hampers our ability to enter other larger convention markets.
    7 points
  2. I purchased both of these kits from a vendor at our clubs annual invitational. Both kits are from Meng. This was my first time building Meng kits, and I must tell you, they were a joy to build. I was very impressed with the level of detail, and how well everything fit together. The base was covered with Stucco repair from Lowe’s. While it was still wet, I pressed the tracks, and mine roller wheels into the mixture. I painted the base with several shades of brown, and sand. Once dry, I applied a wash of Tamiya brown, and black. After it dried, I dry brushed Naples yellow hue for highlights. While trying to simulate the nonslip surface on the top of the turret and hull, I ran into some issues. After talking with some of the armor experts in our club, they pointed me in the right direction. Chris
    7 points
  3. I wanted to see if I could build a broken relic into something presentable. I learned about the P-38 when I build this kit as a child and I would fly it around outside shooting down me109s and what have you. The copy I had at that time was molded in glossy OD plastic. I decided to find a copy and I did. I found some busted up kits for sale on eBay. The P-38 was one of them and is molded in metallic blue. It was missing the tail plane, props and spinners and balance weights. I asked for parts from the club membership and a member sent me a complete Monogram P-38 kit for parts. So here are photos showing the progress. It is one of Aurora's more accurate 1/48 models and I wanted a simple stand build; but, there was lots and lots of sanding and filling. To my surprise the Monogram replacement parts fit perfectly. I carefully removed the yellowed canopy and polished it. There is no cockpit just a molded on pilot, and rudimentary instrument panel and radio. The canopy is more like a helmet in that it sits atop the cockpit and is oversized. The only thing I could do at this point was adding putty and sanding down the sides so that it fitted properly. I glued the canopy with clear Gorilla Glue and it made a good bond without crazing the plastic. The clear canopy is missing some frame lines so I used decal strips to create those missing frames. None of the intakes are open so I just used a large sharpie to paint them black. I painted the model with Tamiya Green Drab and Mission Models Neutral Gray. The markings are from an Aeromaster sheet on OD P-38s. The props are held in place with blue-tac putty. Thanks for looking. 12 additional images. Click to enlarge.
    6 points
  4. I had some damage to my Monogram P-40 in my Pearl Harbor collection so I decided to Replace with Airfix P-40 in 1/48. This is one very nice Kit. Built mostly out of box except Gun Sight,Uschi Antenna and Eduard Seatbelt. Really enjoyed this kit and fit was mostly great with a few areas only needing a little sanding and dry fitting. Painted with Vallejo Air colors OD and Neutral Grey. Over-coated with Future for Gloss and decanted Dullcoat for final finish. Used some Tamiya weathering powders to "dirty her up". Kit decals were great and no problems. I used gloss black on Props and buffed with Uschi Chrome powder. Hollowed out exhaust and gun barrels with no issues . Thanks for Looking and Comments Welcome Cheers Bill D
    5 points
  5. Eduard's new F4F-3 kit and it's pretty nice. Not too many fit issues and almost all the options to build any -3. The biggest issue I had, understanding that I'm an average modeler, was the engine to fuselage. There are just two tabs, one left and one right, and when you attach the engine it tends to swivel up & down. I added a third tab to help me out. The landing gear is a bit fragile so be careful removing it from the sprue. The windscreen did not fit right and needed some filing. If you plan on doing the 'Yellow wings' version you'll need to fill the two panel lines on either side of the cowl and scribe a line, one on each side, midway down the cowl. I'm kind of surprised Eduard missed that as they do give you the clips, in photo etch, for that cowl. I'm not a fan of Eduards new decals but what are ya gonna do. I used a mix of Eduard, CAM and YellowWings decals and Tamiya paints for the finish. All in all it's a great kit and since the F4F-3 is one of my favorites.....I picked up 3 more.
    5 points
  6. Here's everything y'all need to know pertaining to Madison's 2024 Nats at this point. We are still a long way off, although there's much work to be done between now and then. This is, of course, Mad City's first National Convention. The clubs in the region are excited, and the team is enthusiastic and full of great ideas to make the attendee experience memorable and enjoyable. We'll do our utmost to implement whatever additional amenities we can without losing our mission focus of accomplishing all of the boiler-plated tasks required of every national convention. That being said, we're already getting negative feedback from people..."It's too far", "I hate the Wisconsin Badgers", "I got a DWI up there in 1987, so I'm never going back to Wisconsin", (yes, these are real) etc... Please keep in mind, we have a job to do, and its not an easy one. If you choose not to attend because you hate the Wisconsin Badgers (and I'm a NY transplant, so enough of that) or it's too far for you to travel, that's on YOU, not on US. We're sorry that we're way up here in the frozen tundra of the Midwest. Regardless, no matter where the National Convention happens, it inevitably becomes a very long drive for someone. If you choose to make that LONG journey from where ever you are, we will do our best to make it a wonderful experience for you and your families. Now...back to work... Jeff Herne 2024 IPMS National Convention Chairman Region 5 Coordinator IPMS 2024 Madison_Final_Ver.pptx
    5 points
  7. Just make sure you have some debonder handy. 😁
    5 points
  8. I finished this baby January 2, after staring it in... 2002? It's a Hasegawa/Mister Kit mashup in 1:72 to depict a Serie VIII Macchi-built machine; the cockpit is Mister Kit and True Details resin with a Pavla seat with Eduard belts, and the wheel wells are mostly scratch-built. Mister Kit's photoetched gear doors were a pain to work with but ended up looking good. Missing details inside and outside the radiator were made with mesh, styrene strip and sheet and a lot of patience. The plane was painted with True North Africa mustard and light grey (matches for the Italian colors) and the camouflage was made with Mike Grant's "smoke ring" decals, which performed great (although they can be fragile). The markings for "Dai Banana!" came from a Sky Decals sheet and they were more persnickety than the smoke rings - Solvaset was my friend. The real secret weapon was the Valiant Wings monograph on the C.202, which answered many questions (questions that led it to go to the Shelf of Doom, perhaps?).
    5 points
  9. Note: This is my personal opinion based on my own experience with both our local shows and the IPMS national convention NCC needs to address this issue within the rules asap or well soon possible. With todays electronics there is no reason why anyone should need AC power for their creations. Providing power is a huge expense and pain for the host clubs. Vegas spent over $1000 providing power for the model room. That averaged $110 per model that needed power. If we are serious about keeping convention cost down we need to stop placating to contestants that cannot build around such a rule as "No AC power will be provided for model entries, no exception. Three options, provide your own AC power backup, purchase the AC power from the host site. ($$$$), build your model with simple DC battery power." Not meant as an insult anyone but we somehow need to real in cost and this is simply one convention expense that is way too high. Joe Porche #20296
    5 points
  10. I strayed a bit from simple on this one, inspired by a really nice build of the Lindberg XFY-1 given to me by a friend who has Gone West. I built up a cockpit using some Monogram F-80 parts and a PE instrument panel for which I can't remember the source. The intakes were given some internal trunking and the belly was extensively reshaped as Aurora got that pretty wrong and it is an interesting part of the airplane. A new canopy was made so I could pose it open. Some of the casters were missing so I made some resin replacements and posed them in a more realistic fashion. Work was complicated by the fact that the kit came to me as a glue bomb and the first step was to get it apart without destroying it. Later I found an unstarted kit but what would be the fun in that? It rests in the stash.
    5 points
  11. I've had this 1/48 Missing Link resin conversion for the Monogram Me-262A for decades to turn it into an Me-262B, and finally decided to build it! The conversion is simple and straight forward, only requiring the cutting down of the kit spine and the addition of the rear seater's cockpit tub. A very nice extended vacuform canopy is included, the nose radar "C" arms, as well as the seat and details for the rear cockpit. All in all, with the exception of drilling the radar arms to accept very fine wire radar antennas, this is an easy conversion. The only other thing worth mentioning is I tried a new technique for the side splotches. Instead of fighting with my airbrush, I cut VERY small swatches of sponge, held them with tweezers, dipped them into paint, blotted them off on a paper towel, and then DABBED the splotches onto the model. I was quite pleased with the result and it was MUCH easier than trying to spray them on! The model was rescribed and a brown sludge-wash applied. The markings are all from the Monogram kit, except for the black fuselage crosses. I didn't have ANY decals small enough to fit, so I made a stencil and sprayed the black crosses onto the sides. Anyway, happy to have this one built after it's sat in the stash since the 80s! Comments, critiques, and questions welcome, as always. Cheers! GIL
    5 points
  12. Good luck with that. Some don't even bother to read the category cards on the tables!
    5 points
  13. 11 completions this past year, about average for me. I'll run them in chronological order. Fuel tanker and Cushman trike from the Airfix 1/72 USAAF Bomber Support Set, done as post-war civvie vehicles: Airfix 1/48 Gloster Meteor F.8: Classic Airframes 1/48 Grumman Widgeon: Airfix 1/48 Spitfire XVIII (converted from the XIV kit): Airfix 1/48 Spitfire Vb: Airfix 1/72 MBB Bo105: Airfix 1/72 Lynx HAS.2: Airfix 1/72 Lynx AH.1: Revell 1/72 F-4EJ, the very basic 1965 kit! SBS Resin 1/72 Farman F.190: Tamiya 1/48 Mosquito NF.XIX, converted from the NF.XIII kit: A pleasing year, I was pretty happy with most of these completions. We'll see what 2022 brings, but I have a number of interesting builds planned. Let's see what transpires!
    5 points
  14. Tamiya 1/72 Messerschmitt Bf-109G-6. I finished this up early last month, but didn't feel like shooting it until today. Built out of the box, with only ceramic wire antenna added. Airbrushed with MRP RLM 74/75/76.
    4 points
  15. I built this model with 3 purposes.... the first was to have a B-29 in my collection; the second was to christen my new display case I finished recently, and the third was as "practice" because I plan to cut one up to make a B-50 using a resin conversion set I have. I put the full interior into it as part of this process, just to see what can be seen in the end and what can be skipped in the future. This was a project that took longer than expected, considering it's OOTB for the most part. It was a case of 2 steps forward and then one back; especially when painting time arrived. The fault was entirely mine. I sanded and polished the canopy and nose glass, using some of the Novus polishing compounds. I failed to remove all of the residue and had repeated problems with the paint around the canopy and nose as a result. Repeated filling and sanding finally overcame things. The only correction I tried to make to the kit was the exhausts. Monogram gives you one large piece for the exhaust when it should actually have two, one larger for the engine and one smaller for the supercharger on each side of each nacelle. I drilled and shaped new holes and used plastic tubing to replicate them. I also added clear plastic wing tip lights. Another mod was I sawed the cowl flaps apart so I could flare them to a more open position. This not only looked better, it helped the cowlings fit the nacelles easier. I chose to do a black bottomed Korean War B-29. I've always like that scheme, and by painting the entire model black, it also served as the base coat for the Alclad and AK Metallics paints used on the top. I used the Alclad gloss black primer for the black. Alclad had some bad batches of this product that doesn't dry properly, but my bottle worked perfectly, drying hard in 24hrs. I used various metallic colors to get the varying panel tones and the anodized wing spar center section. Since I'd lost so many raised panel lines in sanding, I decided to go retro and "ghost" panel lines on the top. This also served to give it the more weathered look of a Korean War B-29 years older than its WWII counterparts. Enough of the in-progress stuff...on to the finished model! Comments, critiques, and questions welcome! Gil
    4 points
  16. Here is one I picked up at an antique mall near Milton, FL a couple of weeks ago, never heard of it before, $18.00, looks complete! Chip Naples, FL
    4 points
  17. Today was held our 2023 Vacation Picks.... WooHooooo, I got the week off for Nationals!!! I can't wait to place a bunch of mediocre models on the tables that won't win anything. The best part? In-N-Out Burgers!!!!!!
    4 points
  18. Hi All, I'm pleased to report a bid for the 2024 National Convention was submitted. It will be evaluated by the Eboard and details will be shared at the National Convention in Omaha. Thank you all who have reached out and supported the current bid cycle. See you in Omaha! Cheers, John
    4 points
  19. I attended and judged in Omaha (but not any of the BKB cats). My observation was that the a/c BKB cats were populated about the same as the old OOTB cats were, though it did seem to me that they seemed to be broken out a bit more, making for more BKB cats than OOTB cats. Personally, I like the idea of limiting what kits can be used and making the rules for building "stricter". I've watched the chief judges cave and allow more and more "exceptions" in the old OOTB categories for decades, not to mention the growth of the gray areas with the addition of the multi-media kits that muddied up the original idea of separating those who do NOT want to add buku details from those who do. The new BKB cats eliminate all of those problems. If the kit qualifies as a "basic" kit, you build what's in the box, NO exceptions. If you don't like to build that way, then build anything and compete in the general cats. It' was also kind of cool (imo) to see some older Hawk and Monogram kits battling it out among themselves on a very level playing field, without Eduard or Special Hobby kits with resin and pe getting in the way. Gil
    4 points
  20. To Scott & Nancy Hackney and the team at Ft. Crook, bravo on the excellent nationals this year in Omaha. Your team should be very proud. Thanks to all the vendors, seminar presenters, podcasters and IPMS/USA members who attended. Your support is greatly appreciated. I look forward to next year in San Marcos. Have a great week. Happy modeling Dave Lockhart IPMS/USA President (678) 620-8417 ipmspresident@ipmausa.org
    4 points
  21. I’ve built a couple of these in the past. They are relatively cheap, and easy to build. You can buy most of the material from any home improvement store. I use Lowe’s (they offer a military discount with an I.D.). The scene that my diorama depicts is a fully armed F-18 taxing towards a catapult for launch, with the aid of a plane director. Aircraft routinely taxi over the arrestor cables to get to the catapults. SUPPLIES: These are the following item that you need. 1. 2’x4’ 3/4” CDX plywood. The going price for a 2’ x 4’ sheet right now is around $34 dollars. . I build large bases. I can usually cut two bases out of one piece . You can build several small diorama bases out of a 2‘ x 4‘ sheet. 2. 3M 100 grit sandpaper pack. (Paint section)This is the easiest way to simulate the nonskid surface. (Ground based runways, Taxiways as well)3. Loctite contact adhesive. (Paint section) (To glue the sand paper to the plywood. 4. 3/4” high oak trim. (For a finished edge on the plywood) 5. Wood stain for the oak trim. ( paint section). They sell very small cans. Polyurethane clear coat (optional) 6. Miter box and miter saw. To cut the oak trim. (Tool world section). 7. Trim nails to attach the oak trim to the edge. (Hardware section). 8. Wood glue. (To spread on the edge of the plywood before you nail the oak trim to it, paint section) 9. Nail set. To counter sink the trim nail heads just below the surface. (Tool World section). 10 Felt pads. Put these on the bottom of the plywood so that it can be easily slid, or picked up.(Hardware section) These are the following model supplies that you will need; 1. Tom’s Model Works aircraft tie downs. They come in different scales. 2. Paint to airbrush the lines on. Either enamels, or acrylics. 3. Tape to paint the lines. 4. Some type of string to simulate the cable. I used Model Shipways. 5. Scrap photo etch. (To simulate the leaf springs that keep the wire suspended above the deck). CONSTRUCTION: 1. Choose the size of your base, cut to size. A good manual hand saw can be used, with good results. Make sure to draw the outline of the base on the plywood using a pencil and ruler. Make sure everything is square. 2. Prep the sandpaper to glue on to the plywood. Take a piece of sandpaper, and turn it, print side up. Take a ruler and draw intersecting lines. Where the lines intersect, is where you will punch a hole in the sandpaper so that you can glue the tie down in the center of the hole. 3. Glue the sandpaper to the plywood once all of the holes have been punched. It’s a good idea to take a ruler and draw a starting line on the plywood to line each piece of sandpaper up. Take painters tape and mask off the surrounding area of the plywood that you do not want to get contact adhesive on. Spray both the plywood and sandpaper with adhesive and wait 3-5 minutes. Line up the edge of the sandpaper on the line that you’ve drawn on the plywood. Press the sandpaper firmly down on the plywood. When all of the sandpaper has been attached, take superglue and glue each tie down in the center of each punched hole. 4. Airbrush various shades of gray to get the desired base color. 5. Once dry, measure and tape off the lines you wish to put on. 6. Add oil and grease stains once everything is painted and dry. 7. Stain and attach oak trim to the edge of the plywood. If anyone is interested in building one of these, and you have questions, feel free to message me. I’d be glad to help.
    4 points
  22. And they might just be shocked at how well they do there. Wouldn't that be interesting?
    4 points
  23. The old Bandai 1/48 armor kits were really gems at the time and still aren't all that bad. They all sported at least a minimal interior while other companies kits had nothing but old motorization brackets. This one is bound for Malta camouflage. I completed the interior with some extra "busying-up" parts added, like some more bins in the hull, some wiring a recoil guard for the main gun and I bodged together a sort of #19 radio set. The turret basket is not accurate and is actually in common with that in the Valentine kit. As a matter of fact, if you check the one in the ESCI 1/72 scale Valentine, you'll find it's also the same. But accuracy aside, again, at least there's something in there to see through the hatches I intend to leave open. In the end, it turned out pretty well for a kit that dates from 1975. The figure is from the Tamiya Humber a/c kit as there was no crew in the box when I got it. This is everything before exterior painting started, with the exception of the exhaust system. And here's the final product.
    4 points
  24. We are locked in for 2-5 August of next year (2023) in San Marcos, Texas. -Len
    4 points
  25. Recent Group-Build /Theme for Pittsburgh IPMS Club was the 80s. I discovered a Fujimi 1/72 Sea Harrier from our in-House Dealer(Pusher) and at $7.00 started down the Rabbit hole. Yes.. Resin Interior,Master Models Pitot and a second kit for Falkland Markings had me following the white Rabbit. Cut Canopy open,Added a few antenna, Opened up some vents and out challenging was dropping Engine vents for Ground Ops. Gunze Dark Sea Gray, GX-100 and Markings for HMS Invincible . Please note "007" how could I not choose this 😃. Thanks for Looking Comments Always Welcome Cheers Bill
    4 points
  26. Not the easiest new tool Airfix kit to build but it's such a cool looking aircraft, I had to build it. I did end up using the Eduard Zoom set though.
    4 points
  27. Plugging away on my Lockheed collection, I found that I lacked a P-80A. While researching the build, I found that the Sword P-80A/B kit had a definite error that needed correction. For that whole story (and cure), the build thread is over on BritModeler HERE For those just mildly curious, here are the pics: Thanks for looking, Ed
    4 points
  28. Finished this one late last year- cheers Pig
    4 points
  29. Here is Lindberg’s 1991 boxing of the Snark missile in 1/48. I must have weeks invested cutting off flash and filling seams. What a mess these old molds were. I was bound and determined to finish as my wife gave it to me for Christmas 2 years ago. The key goal here was to go to another level with lighting - EXPLOSIONS! The models are painted with MCW acrylic lacquer. Those are the 31yr old decals…they looked good until i put clear on the Snark ones, a few showed some silvering almost like they lifted a bit with the hot paint on them. The tractor, hitch and stairs were weathered with Flory washes and dry brushed with Vallejo metal colors. 220 grit sandpaper for the base. Lights are 24v COB LEDs at 6500K. 9ft of them! Blinding even from the living room lol had to use my sons New Google phone to capture the scene. Any other camera just showed bright glaring light all around. The streaming jet exhaust is compliments of synthetic ‘rope’ style cotton. That really sets off the appearance of flow I think. Here are my top 10 shots. Hope you guys enjoy them… And here’s a sneak peak underneath
    4 points
  30. This is John Dennett's newest offering. IIRC it's from The Outer Limits' very first show. The story is about a radio station operator that seemingly contacts his counterpart from the Andromeda Galaxy (ignore the science). Wanting to impress his girlfriend about the stations range, he boosts the signal all the way up, and accidentally sucks the alien, who's made of electricity, into this world! The kit is John's usual 2 part bust - the figure and the base. It's done in flawless blue gray resin. For a lot of my character busts I give my self the dilemma of do I paint it as if it were real? Or do I do it as an actor in costume? Since I discovered how the effect was done. I decided to paint the actor, who was William Douglas. For those that don't know the effect, they dressed Douglas in a brown wet suit because of the B&W film. Then they smeared the suit with oil, and when developing, made a negative of the being. So this turns to be the easiest paint job I ever did. Brown suit, and all I had to remember that was in going to try the trick, light had to be dark and vice versa. Painting the other parts I didn't know what different hues would do so I kept all the colors in the brown family. After the below pic was taken I coated the whole thing in Spaz Stix Super Gloss. Then with the image viewer I have - Irfanview - I first made the image B&W, and then made it a negative. I also tweaked the Brightness, Contrast, Gamma Correct, and Saturation. It gave me a result I was happy with, looking like the alien on the show. Thanks for looking.
    4 points
  31. Hello. This is my last model Wedell Williams 45 National Air Racers 1934, from scratch in 1/32 scale. Best regars Marcin IPMS Polska 🙂
    4 points
  32. Well done, sir, well done. Now get you to the contest table, and tell the judges, let the PE be an inch thick, to this finish it must come; make them laugh at that seat belt.
    4 points
  33. For Highlamder: Alas poor OOB! I knew him well, David. A category of infinite problems, of most excellent confusion It hath borne me on the contest table a thousand times; and now, How grand in my imagination it is. Apologies to Sir William Pat D
    4 points
  34. Well, this is interesting. Personally I think the E-board/NCC could have squelched all this debate when they first came out with OOB rules: the answer is in the description: NOTHING! When you start allowing things to be added, then everyone is going to try to game the system. If the NCC had held firm to 'NOTHING can be added if it wasn't packed in the box by the manufacturer', then this would not have been an issue. Oh, but what about making something look accurate? Well, as far as I've ever seen, accuracy is not judged in our contests: build techniques are. Another question squelched. These are MODELS! They are representations of real vehicles and structures (and in some cases people). There is no way anyone can make a perfect model, despite many people striving for one (and coming damned close I might add!) But the answer again is also in the name: Out of the Box. Strictly speaking, that means the parts on the sprues only! Not even parts from the instruction sheet unless the instruction sheet has a specific design that they indicate needs to be cut out and applied. In these days of kits including P/E and/or resin parts added by the manufacturer; then they can be added as they are IN THE BOX. Proof is in the instruction sheet. Can I add seatbelts? NO! Unless they are included on the decal sheet or P/E fret! Can I use decals other than those in the box? NO! They didn't come packed in the in the box by the manufacturer so those other decals are not Out of the Box. Can I add rigging to my ship? NO! Unless the kit includes a roll of thread or material for rigging! In other words.... Can I add _______? Answer: Was it in the box and/or included in the kit by the manufacturer? Then NO! Ever since joining this organization I've always understood OOB meant anything that was included in the box.... period! Because of that I seem to be the only person in this organization that has always built models to the strictest interpretation of this OOB rule as I have outlined it above. Rarely have I added aftermarket additions to my models; but only when someone gifts them to me as I would rather spend my extremely limited funds on more kits than extra parts. It always mystified me when the NCC said, "you can add this, but only this in this category". So they in effect violated their own rule by making exceptions. Since this class of models has this exception, then can I add____ to mine in this different class? So you see, buy not standing firm on NOTHING outside the box can be used, they started this slippery slope themselves. Can I add this_____? Was it in the box as it came from the manufacturer? There's your answer. Gee, I'll never understand why everyone has to make this so hard. Regardless of what people finally decide I shall continue to build my models OOB as I interpret the description and I will enter them in the contest wherever they fit. I never expect to ever win; it's all about the camaraderie and friendships and the chance to ask respected friends to check out my work. If I win, that's just cream. Stop asking "What can I add?" and just BUILD IT!! Geez!
    4 points
  35. David, you mentioned about local hobby shops being passive in the face of ecommerce. They face the same problems as any other retail business. Rents and business rates and taxes ever increasing, Cost of any salaries that have to come out of the business. Buying in stock and waiting for it to sell at a reasonable profit to sustain the business with potential customers often just window shopping, getting straight onto their smart phones to compare on line prices, and ordering from some big warehouse operation instead. Not all small outfits can afford to set up ecommerce themselves as the on costs of having to pay for IT expertise to design and set up a website and maintain it, as well as their own input to keep it always up to date. Are they really passive, or just being steam rolled into giving up against relentless pressure by on line giants and modellers going for the cheaper deals they can get on line? I for one miss a number of local hobby shops disappearing, being able to browse and occasionally meet up with like minded folk in the shop, and owners who were model makers in their own right with their expertise.
    4 points
  36. Hi All, This is my 1/72 scale Kovozávody Prostějov Avia S-199 'Sakin. I added an AML resin centerline bomb rack with bombs, the rest is from the box. The finish is Revell Bronze Green enamel, and the decals are from Sky's Decals. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Albert.
    3 points
  37. While waiting for something to dry during a modeling session with a friend of mine, he threw this at me and told me to get busy. Well, I putzed with it just killing time really, but then had a brain cramp. Since the engines were the problem with this aircraft, I decided to give it new ones. I got a couple Merlin nacelles from the spares box and blended them into the ones on the kit. I know in reality that Merlins were in short supply and destined for Lancasters and Spits, but what if..? I’m sure other structural and aerodynamic changes would have been necessary for a variety of reasons, but I have no idea what those would have been, so we’ll just go with this for now, ok? Note that this is one the first versions of this kit released and it was pretty primitive and since it was just for a lark, I cut a few corners and wasn't as careful as I might normally have been. The decals were just cobbled together from spares.
    3 points
  38. A new year, a new project is begun. I’m building Academy’s 1/35 M51 Sherman. For those not familiar with the type, this was probably the ultimate development of any Sherman. The Israelis started with 76mm gunned M4A1E8s, replaced the gas radial engine with a Cummins Diesel engine, then modified the turret to accept a French made 105mm main gun. These tanks saw combat in IDF hands in the 1967 and 1973 wars where they faced off against T-54/55s, T-62s, M47s/M48s, and Centurions among other types. And the upgunned Shermans were able to help win the battles. Anyways, this is Academy’s 90’s vintage kit that I’ll be building OOB, except for adding some stowage. Today I completed the first couple of steps, assembling the HVSS suspension, and adding the return rollers to the lower hull sides the biggest time killer was mold seam line clean up, and dinging up the idler and road wheel tires… Hopefully this should move along at a quick pace now…
    3 points
  39. Well, after much chopping, filling sanding and other general mayhem, this combination of the RS Models P-322 1 and the MPC P-38F models have been beaten into a semblance of the very first Lightning, the XP-38. For those who might be interested in the hows and whys, the build thread is HERE. The pics: Thanks for looking in. Ed Quote "Dispensing the Tribal Wisdom since before there WAS a Tribe!"
    3 points
  40. Let me very clear....I'm not implying ANY malfeasance... nor hankypanky....I also know they booked a block of as many rooms as they could, even if that number was lower than we would desire. I'm saying that while Len and his crew did an admirable job in trying to give everyone a fair shot at making a reservation and to prevent gaming the system; they failed to follow through with important information they should have known and passed on to us. If you check out the DF here under the "UPDATE" thread, you'll see I was asking Len and his team to get with the Hilton folks to find out ANYTHING we needed to know to book using their system. There's NO reply after Aug.10th to my inquiries. After a single reply to my first set of questions that generally just reassured us they were working to prevent gaming the system, there's no answer to my request to ask the Hilton more specific questions and pass those answers on to us. Yes, they opened the system on time, and it worked smoothly and quickly as long as you DIDN'T ATTEMPT TO CHANGE THE DATES. Almost every failure I've read of, and mine included, failed because the system automatically rejected ANY attempt to add Tuesday the 1rst to the reservation attempt. I think this is information that Len and his team could have known, should have known, and failed to pass on to us. The system itself was misleading. The system allowed you to change the number of rooms being booked, as evident by several people saying they booked multiple rooms. The system also allowed you to change the number of attendees from "1 adult" to 2 adults (or whatever your needs). The system also ALLOWED you to CHANGE THE DATES....implying that it wouldn't be any problem, but it is now clear that doing so caused a failure. Some people were quick enough to drop back, drop Tuesday and go with the set 2-5th and got their reservation; which is yet more proof that THAT was the "glitch". IF the hosts had gotten with the Hilton folks and asked the simple question: "What can make a reservation attempt fail automatically"?; they might have been told "trying to book outside of the dates 2-5th. Again, MY personal beef is that after almost begging the hosts to follow through with the Hilton group to find out that kind of info; they didn't. IF they did, they never posted it on the DF were I posted my concerns; nor did they post it on their FB page either. All they provided were the links, the code, and the assurance it would operate. Unfortunately those assurances came up short. As I said elsewhere, this will at least provide a learning opportunity for the future, by the new Nats Committee as well as any future hosts. Whether the answer is to be sure the contract allows for expanded dates during the week, and/or a better job of communication about the reservation system being used, as well as better and more concise information for our members before reservations go live; I hope it works toward a smoother booking system for all. I'm also sure that Len and his crew will work towards trying to help people like me going forward by making us aware of cancellations, as well as toiling to provide a great convention for the attendees. This was an unexpected hiccup, and hopefully will be one of very few going forward. Gil
    3 points
  41. This kit is an amalgam of the 1961 vintage Airfix Churchill with a few extra parts for the flame conversion and a new trailer. The tank needs a lot of love to bring it into the 21st century and the trailer is rather plain and needs extra work to improve its looks.
    3 points
  42. This is the 1/35th Nuts Planet Heavy Gunner (@$18.00). Since there is no back story or information in the kit, I felt I was free to develop the figure in my own way. The logo came from a set by Matho Models as are the sign and caution tape. The 12.7mm machine gun is quite nicely done and the perfect tool for combating NYC rats, don't you think? The small green blocks are Claymore mines for fending off large groups and possibly the cockroaches. Dak
    3 points
  43. Trumpeter T-90A kit with Meng figures and a mobile phone user from Blast Models. Pigeons and other stuff are Miniart. Building was made from AK carving foam and Evergreen plastic. Everything seen here has been seen on the news. Dak
    3 points
  44. 1/8 agora 427 cobra, Changed color to red. Comes blue with white stripes. Repainted wheels, rollbar and exhaust. Added a few little extra details. Repainted it red because Shelby’s comment to Enzo Ferrari was “ I can make red ones too”
    3 points
  45. After all the work done in Maddog Manufacturing, we managed to finish these up and send them to their respective Air Forces.. My US Air Force took delivery of this F-117 Stealth Fighter to replace the one stolen in '96. It is the old Revell/Monogram kit released as part of the Desert Storm four-kit set: Next my Swedish Air Force took delivery of this Vampire with the understanding that when better decals are acquired they would be added to this after the old ones are stripped. This is the ancient Airfix blister packed kit: Finally my Japanese Air Force took delivery of this U-125 Maritime Search plane. This is the 1/72 scale Sword kit sent to me by a friend. It is such a pretty plane: These are three of the six models I finished. Check out the others in the Armor and Ships Forums. Thanks for looking in, comments are welcome.
    3 points
  46. So my first project of the year is now complete. This is Academy’s 1/35 M51 Sherman, an Israeli/French upgrade to the basic M4A1E8. I built it mostly OOB, aside from adding a clear acetate lens to the spotlight (no lens was provided), some .010 wire for the antennas, and replacing the nylon mesh for the grouser compartment vents with some brass mesh - the kit stuff was horrid to try to cut to size & shape. Base color is Model Master Acrylic IDF Sand. I based the markings off what few photos that I could find of M51s in the Golan during the October 1973 War, where the Israelis had to bring these old war horses out of war reserve to assist the Centurions in stopping then pushing back the Syrian onslaught and subsequently driving towards Damascus. Thanks for looking, comments and critiques are welcome…
    3 points
  47. With all due respect I think if more IPMS members READ the rules carefully and the preamble to the rules defining BKB much of this self-inflicted confusion and frustration would go away. The rules are written in the King's English and are pretty cut and dried, trying to parse the meaning and find loopholes that are not there is a waste of time. If anything, the new BKB rules are much clearer than the OOB rules ever were. Basically, if it ain't there or on the instruction sheet you can't add it. Provisions were made for certain cases like some armor or motorcycle models where non-plastic media is used to support the structure or are needed to assemble it (screws & bolts, metal chassis). No offence intended to anyone, but this is not that hard to build and compete within these rules if one desires to do so. Pat D
    3 points
  48. Today was a paint session on the stowage items base colors. Almost four hours using most of my enamel Olive Drabs, Olive Greens, Khakis, and most everything in between to paint the items. The beautiful thing about using enamels over acrylics is that any enamel mess ups onto the base acrylic IDF Sand are easily cleaned up with paint thinner. Tomorrow I need to work on the road wheel tires and the exhausts.
    3 points
  49. Looking for kits to start the year (besides the Skystreak) I found Mark Warthling's Pestilence Labs Monster from Young Frankenstein, and John Dennett's Tiny Tim. I guess I want to get a head start of next Christmas. But he's for a separate post. First thing to decide is what color was the Monster. Fortunately the movie being filmed B&W on purpose, and there were plenty of color images available. Where the box are shows a blue-green. He's definitely a blue. One dilemma I always have for myself is should I paint him up as if the character is real, or as an actor in makeup. I usually go for the former, but this time I went for the later. I got out my flesh triad and went to work. The blue went over the skin tones. I actually muffed up at this point putting too much blue on, and eliminating all the skin tone. I tried to save it my using my lightest skin ton as the highlight. Worked fairly well. Then it was time to paint up the clothes. His shirt was a black, and the jacket was a brown. The stone was was painted with 3 colors to add a little extra color to the model. The kit comes with a broken mug from his scene with the hermit. I was lucky enough to find this screen grab, as I thought I noticed a design on the mug while rewatching the movie. I tried my best to copy it. Almost done I tackled the fire, and is my typical fire recipe. Remember that fire has to be painted backwards from the usual Base color, shadow, highlight. The lightest (hottest) color appears closest to the source of fuel - his finger in this case. The last thing was his eyes. Looking up Peter Boyle's eyes, according to a few statistic websites, I was surprised to find out that his eye color is black! Having a pupil show up against that would be a problem. So I made the irises a dark gray. I also chose the eyes down as if he's pondering *whats happening to my thumb* look. A little gloss over the eyes, and I was done. Thanks for looking.
    3 points
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