Ralph Nardone

Most Hellcats basically came in two color schemes--the so-called "Tri-Color" scheme of Non-Specular Sea Blue, Intermediate Blue, and White; and the overall Gloss Sea Blue scheme. The Federal Standard color system is a post-war development, so technically there are no FS colors for the Hellcat--the colors for the Tri-Color scheme would be ANA 607 (NS Sea Blue), ANA 608 (Intermediate Blue), and ANA 601 (Matt Insignia White). The Gloss Sea Blue is ANA 623. That being said, you could use FS35062 and FS35164 for the NS Sea Blue and Intermediate blue, and FS15062 for the Gloss Sea Blue. Any flat white would work. I just finished an Otaki Hellcat, and I used the Tamiya Sea Blue and Intermediate Blue, I lightened the Intermediate blue with some white.... Ralph

I wonder if it isn't a product for wood, like a Tung Oil. It isn't part of the Flo-Stain line, but still.... R

Wouldn't that be a rule of nose? :lol: Bruce is right--if you still smell a "paint smell", the paint hasn't thoroughly outgassed, and is therefore not fully cured. And that rule applies to all paints.... R

I'd wager that a lot of *serious* modelers have that much plastic in their houses, too, the difference being that the Duke's are actually built. Impressive collection, Mark. A little of everything.... Ralph

The reason the colors look different is because the FB-111A's, being SAC assets, were painted in SAC colors. SAC's low-level camo was unique to SAC, just as the SEA scheme was unique to TAC. Ralph

The Good Lord willin' and the river don't rise, Jodie and I will try to make it there. Ralph

Kits that bring a smile to my face: Revell's 1/32 Wildcat, the first model I built (with lots of help from Dad). Revell's 1/72 F-16, the one with all the ordnance and tow tractor. You remember, the one in the roll out Red, White, and Blue scheme. Built it one summer, and couldn't believe all the extra stuff you got--and couldn't figure out how the airplane could carry all of it at one time. Lindberg's 1/500 (or so) Essex-class ships. I learned how to say "Ticonderoga" while building it. Otaki's 1/48 Corsair. I searched and I searched for this kit back in 1981. Found one and promptly botched the job. Otaki's 1/48 Hellcat. Bought it after the Corsair. Did as good a job on it as I did a bad job on the Corsair. Otaki's 1/48 N1K1-Ja, the first model I put into a contest. Finished fourth. Monogram's 1/48 F-105G. My return to building jets, and the spark that rekindled my Century Series interest. Dragon's 1/35 M-51. My first serious armor kit. Airfix's 1/144 737-200 and ATP's Air Florida decals. Nice.... Minicraft's 1/144 737-400 and Avigraphics' Olympic Airlines decals. Even nicer.... Hobbycraft's 1/48 P-26. My "Most Decorated" model (local and Regional firsts, plus a few Special Awards). Ralph

To the best of my knowledge, the kits that required a long wing got a long wing. As far as the cockpit goes, if you can find one for the A-model Vark, you'll be okay--basically, the C-model was an A-model with the long wing. If you can find it, get the revised Detail and Scale on the F-111--there is some good advice on the Minicraft kits in the Modeler's Section. Ralph

Paint is a funny thing--I used to return thinned paint to the jar back when I used enamels, and sometimes they would be fine, other times they would become gelatinous within hours. There was no pattern as to which paints would gel in the jar. I have also had acrylics turn to little dried pucks in the bottle after I returned thinned paint to the jar. These days, I'm pretty good at estimating what I need. If I have a lot of surplus, I'll put it into a fresh jar and label it as such. Back in the Xylene-thinned Floquil days, I knew of folks who would do as you are--they'd mix, thin, add Glaze, and store the paint. The Glaze was the ey, I think--it restored some of the chemical balance to the paint, allowing the thinner mix to keep longer on the shelf. Ralph

It was in FineScale Modeler, about three or four issues ago. The builder converted the Hasegawa Citation 500 to a 560 in USMC colors. Try Kalmbach's website, they probably still have back issues available... Ralph

True, both molds were made in Korea. Revell/Revell AG simply tooled up and molded a smaller version of the Revell 1/48 scale kit. The Hobbycraft kits are different molds, and the Hobbycraft and Academy kits came from the Hobbycraft molds. Both kits build up into nice Scorpions. The only criticism of the Revell kit seems to be the lack of the clear inner blast shield for the aft cockpit. Hobbycraft's kits got good reviews, too. Airwaves does an etch set for the Revell kit, no reason why it shouldn't work on the Revell kit, too--you may need to tweak some stuff here and there. The good thing about Hobbycraft's kits is that you can do the Scorpion family from the F-89A to the F-89J. The Hobbycraft/Academy boxings stemmed from an apparent disagreement as to who really owned the tooling....and most of Hobbycraft's kits have made it into Academy boxes. R

While I liked PollyScale (and miss it already--especially the Marine colors), I have used Acryl with success since they replaced the horrid Testor Model Master Acrylics in the late 1990's. What made PollyScale so good was that you could thin it with distilled water. I have had to rely on Testor's Universal Acrylic Thinner for Acryls of late, I had one incident where my other favorite acrylic thinning potion (91% Isopropyl Alcohol and Future mixed) caused the paint to clump in the color cup. I seem to be the only person in the universe who publicly states that I have not had adhesion problems with Acryl--I'm either not the only one, or I'm living right.... I also have managed to come to terms with Tamiya's paint--when it was originally released in 1982, it was superb--then they changed the formula and it was difficult to airbrush, even with their own thinner. The latest stuff thins well with the aforementioned Isopropyl/Future mix.... I do, however, miss the Pactra acrylics--shoot, even the old Pactra International Colors enamels were great paints. Another case of Testor buying the line, then killing it. R

Duke, the best part about the hobby is that you can enjoy it any way you please. Some people will take one kit, a lot of miscellaneous parts, and three years to put it all together--once done, the model is a masterpiece. Some people do as you do--grab a kit, build it as it comes in the box, and move on to the next kit. As Harry Callahan said, "A man's got to know his limitations...." For every "detailed" model I build, I'll turn out four of five OOB efforts. In fact, a good 99% of my models are built OOB or nearly so (I may add some resin doo-dads or a cockpit set if I'm feeling ambitious). Also, 99% of my models are built for me--when I do build for someone else, it is usually a gift. On the rare occasion that I build for money, we agree up front to the terms and build constraints. I rarely set deadlines, the client is told that they will be contacted when the project is done. Keep on churning them out--if you're happy with the results and progress you've made in your model building endeavours, then you're doing a great job. Ralph

I'll add a few things I've learned over the years working with acrylics: 1. When you think the airbrush is squeaky-clean, you'll find a tiny bit if gunk is causing all sorts of problems. It sounds like you're having the same issues, but you'll get them conquered soon enough. If you can't clean it with Windex, use straight household ammonia--it'll remove acrylics from metal in a snap. Sure, your sinuses will protest if you don't use a respirator and do it outside.... :) An alternative would be to get a bottle of Testor's Dried Acrylic Solvent and use it--I haven't tried it, but it is available in most hobby shops. 2. Here are a few thinning suggestions that I've used successfully over the years for the paints that have been readily available to me: a. PollyScale. Try using distilled water as the thinner, about 70% paint to 30% distilled water. Another thinning formula I've used is 70% paint, 25% 70 or 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, and 5% Future. The Future helps the paint flow and level. More on that later.... b. Tamiya. Use 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. That's basically what the Tamiya Thinner is, minus the fragrance. You can add some Future to the mix if you wish, for the same purpose as above. The same also works for the older Gunze Aqueous Hobby Paints. c. Testor's Acryl. You can use the Future/Isopropyl mix, but I had an experience with an older jar of paint where that thinning mix caused the paint to curdle in the paint cup. I used the Testor's "Universal Acrylic Thinner" and my problems were solved. Of the three, I still prefer PollyScale. Since it is scarce where I live, I use Acryl almost exclusively these days, and get decent results. Of course, if you ask others they'll say Acryl is some sort of Devil's Brew that is best flushed down the toilet....but I have had few issues (the aforementioned thinner reaction being the worst of them). The addition of the Future, but the way, is merely using Floquil's thinning formula for their Military Enamels. Floquil advocated the use of thinner and a product they called Glaze--the Glaze restores the ratio of binder to the paint and helps it flow out better on the surface of the model. I simply substituted acrylic equivalents--alcohol for Dio-Sol and Future for Glaze. The other key to airbrushing is to practice, practice, practice. Use old models as paint mules. If you normally brush paint interiors, start using the airbrush for the base color. If you normally use a brush to paint prop tips, start masking and airbrushing them. If you used to use spray cans to paint car engines, use the airbrush. Good luck! Ralph

I wonder if the technique is similar to using liquid cement to eliminate fine mold marks. I have yet to play with one of DML's kits with DS tracks, but I might be prompted to do so shortly and find out if it works. What type of thinner do they say to use? R

According to the Testors Model Master Modeler's Technical Guide, Isopropyl Alcohol will remove Glosscote. Seeing as Tamiya's acrylic thinner is pretty much 91% Isopropyl Alcohol.... Also, doesn't Tamiya make a Lacquer Thinner? Ralph

I agree with you on the Loew/Cornell brushes--I have found that their 10/0 equates in size to a W-N 3/0, so choose accordingly. At the shop I work at, we carry a line of Imex brushes that look like they would work equally as well, although without using them I can't testify how long they'll last. Since I don't underpaint with acrylics, I like the white primer vs. the gray primer since it also serves as a base to my skin tone recipe (actually, it is Phil Kessling's skin tone recipe handed down to me by Master Figure Modeler Keith Kowalski). The white base makes the skin tone easier to paint, and it also helps keep bright coors just that--bright and vivid. Given the transparency of oils, gray tends to muddy colors a bit--great for military uniforms, but not-so-great for colorful tunics and such. As always, use what works for you--other than color, either Tamiya primer should work--although I did have some issues with the rattle can Tamiya White, it didn't provide enough tooth for the oils and they tended to smear rather than blend. That's why I keep going back to Reefer White. I've airbrushed it most of the time, but Keith applies it with a brush and gets great results--of course, he'll tell you that he paints everything with a brush.... ;) Ralph

By order of application, you get the L-E-A rule: Lacquers first, then Enamels, then Acrylics. I know people who routinely apply enamels over cured acrylics. How do you know when a paint has fully cured? Ed Kinney had a great bit in the latest AMM--the nose knows. If you can still smell the paint, it isn't cured. Wait until you can no longer smell the solvent, that tells you that the paint has outgassed and cured. Ed was using lacquers, but the sniff test still applied to any paint. That being said, I adhere to the rule posted above. You can mix the types of paint on the model, just plan it out so that you obey the L-E-A rule. Ralph

Thanks, Ralph--I started to search for it, but got interrupted. Use this stuff outside, by the way, and wear rubber (not latex) gloves. The fumes are overpowering and it can cause your skin to peel. Ralph

The only other things I know to try: Castrol Super Clean--this requires a soak, but if you prop the model up and soak parts of it, you may be able to remove most of the paint without hurting the cockpit. It does sometimes affect putty, though... Polly-S Easy Lift Off (aka ELO), if you can find it, can be applied with a rag and the paint is them wiped off. It, too, can lift putty if left on the model too long.... The best thing for the model, I think, would be an overall wet sanding with 400 and 600 grit sandpaper. You don't need to sand all of the paint/primer off, you just need to smooth it out. You didn't say what kind of paint you used. If you used acrylics, you can probably strip the acrylics with ammonia. If you used a solvent-based paint or primer, ammonia won't lift it.... If you used acrylics, and if you are able to lift them with ammonia, you should still hit the primer with some 600 grit, wet. Smooth the whole airplane out, then repaint. Good luck! Ralph

Three things: Mr. Surfacer Milliput or Apoxie Sculpt super glue I like the epoxy putty, since I can force it into the gap or hole then smooth it out with a wet finger. Unless you're quick to sand, super glue may cause more problems than it fixes. Mr Surfacer can be dabbed on, allowed to dry, and smoothed with denatured alcohol or (on resin or metal only) lacquer thinner. Since I hosted the figure painting seminar in '05, here are a few things I presented then that you might want to file away: 1. I always use 5-minute epoxy to assemble white metal parts to resin parts. I tend to use epoxy for all joints, but resin-to-resin can usually be glued with super glue. 2. When in doubt, pin it. Drill holes and insert brass wire pins, then glue with epoxy or super glue. 3. Repeat after me: Floquil Reefer White. Airbrushed, if possible. It is the best primer I've used to figures. 4. Buy the best brushes you can--they'll cost you a wee bit o' cash, but they'll last a lifetime. Windsor and Newton Series 7/Series 12 are the Gold Standard. 5. I don't know which paints you're wanting to use, but my vote is for artists' oils. Use odorless thinner or English Distilled Turpentine. PM me or e-mail me off board and I'll dig up my color recipes for skin tones and the like. E-mail is same as it has ever been: r.nardone@mindspring.com Cheers, and say hey to Steve. R PS: jodie says hey....

Something to do to try and fix what's already on the model: Take a sharp #11 blade and poke some holes in the decal. Apply some Future with a brush, the holes in the decal will allow the Future to wick under it. That may fix the issue. As Jack said, next time, apply some Future first, let it dry, then apply the decal. Ralph

Good choice--the Livermore is on my short list, too. That's one that I haven't bought yet in any media...unlike the Gleaves class, where I have at least two resin kits (Blue Water Navy, IIRC) and the Dragon kit! The same goes for Buckley-class kits, I have two iterations of the Commanders Series/Iron Shipwright kits and the Trumpeter USS England. I guess I'm set for those.... Messing up is part of learning--I like to tell people that there isn't a lot you can mess up on a model that you can't fix easily..... Ralph

I like the phrase "Iron Modeler" to describe multi-class builders. I've seen some "Iron Modeler" contests done in the vein of the cooking show--complete with "secret ingredient" (kit) to be basically kitbashed, but I don't think that translates well into model building. Now, how about an Iron Modeler contest where everyone builds the same kit in an hour? THAT would be a blast....although who would we get to portray Chairman Kaga and Chefs Sakai, Morimoto, Kenichi, Kobe, Michiba, Ishanabe, and Nakamura? Not to mention we'd need a Fukui-san and our workbench reporter, Ohta. Oh, and someone to play the part of Hattori-san.... We used to have a Pentathlon award at some of our contests--the builder had to build five models from different classes. The best collection took the award. Ralph

Matchbox, but that was the later OH-58D with the enlarged doghouse. Italeri did the OH-58A, it is kit 195. Their kit 185 is the OH-58D, and kit 027 is the AH-58D (also Testors kit 637). The OH-13S Sioux was done in 1/72 also by Italeri, their kit 085. I haven't checked to see if any of these are still available, but the usual sources (Squadron, Sprue Brothers) would be a good place to start looking. Ralph