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MikeGilsbach

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About MikeGilsbach

  • Rank
    SnapTite

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  • Website URL
    http://www.austinsms.org
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Profile Information

  • FirstName
    Michael
  • LastName
    Gilsbach
  • IPMS Number
    45357
  • City
    Cedar Park
  • State
    TX
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cedar Park, TX
  1. Thanks, Justen! I'll give that a try. -Mike
  2. Hi All, I have a 48 scale airplane with a 3 color camo scheme. It looks OK, but seems too stark. I need to tone the whole thing down a bit and blend the colors together a little better. I saw an article somewhere that mentioned doing this by overspraying the whole thing with a really light coat of the lightest color..? Anyone know how to do this? Low pressure? Thin paint? I don't have a lot of experience with "precision" airbrushing as I tend to use mine more like a spray can. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks, Mike
  3. WOW! Extra strength nail polish remover. I wiped the model with that using those cotton pads ladies use to remove makeup. Worked like a charm! A minimum amount of scrubbing took paint and primer off cleanly. No soaking. Total control over what got removed. No effect on the putty or glue near as I can tell. Good stuff!
  4. Thanks for all of your replies. It's Polly-Scale amd Testors acrylic paint over Krylon primer. Actually, nail polish remover took them both off down to bare plastic, but I had to scrub the heck out of it. I have used that in the past for small stuff but not a whole model. I might try the ammonia / sanding combination. The kicker is that I didn't even need the darn primer. I had forgotten to prime the wheel covers and drop tanks but painted them anyway. Paint went on fine. Those are gorgeous. Thanks, Mike
  5. Hi All, I have a 48 scale SU-25 mostly built. I sprayed it with white primer, but the finish was terrible - very grainy. So I lightly sanded it. I thought it would be OK with some paint over it but the paint didn't help. I really think the best option is to strip the whole thing down and start over. I have seen lots of suggested methods for this - Oven Cleaner, auto products, alcohol soak. I can't soak it or I'll lose my cockpit paint. I heard that oven cleaner will destroy putty. So, any suggestions for how to strip this thing that won't wreck my interior detail or putty work? I am fully prepared to work at it a while with a toothbrush or whatever. I'm just not sure what solvent will work the fastest without messing up what I want left intact. Thanks, Mike
  6. OK, clearly I don't know squat about radios, but I am trying to model this accurately. I have Tamiya's 1:35 American M-16 half track, which I am modeling as a WWII subject. One of the crew figures is talking into a headset for a radio. The kit comes with a transciever that just sits on the floor and it seems to match portable transcievers that I found photos of. The reference photos I found show that there should be a line connecting the headset to the transciever and a short antenna attached to the top of the transciever. It looks like a self-contained unit. But then there is a "radio" mounted just behind the driver's compartment. Is this related to the transciever? Should they be connected somehow? Thanks, Mike
  7. Very nice. So, the trick is not to use the applicator at all. Makes sense. Thanks for all of your suggestions. I will try a couple of these out and see what works best for me. -Mike
  8. Just kidding. I didn't eat CA glue. But I do have a question about it, having never used it before. I am using the ZAP gap-filling CA glue. It comes with a nice little "precision applicator" tip. The problem is that the cap doesn't fit on the end of said applicator. So, when I was done I had to remove the applicator to get the cap on and close it up. But that spilled the glue that was in the applicator. All rather awkward. Am I missing something here? Any trick to this? Thanks, Mike
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