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About MikeGilsbach

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    Cedar Park
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    Cedar Park, TX
  1. Thanks, Justen! I'll give that a try. -Mike
  2. Hi All, I have a 48 scale airplane with a 3 color camo scheme. It looks OK, but seems too stark. I need to tone the whole thing down a bit and blend the colors together a little better. I saw an article somewhere that mentioned doing this by overspraying the whole thing with a really light coat of the lightest color..? Anyone know how to do this? Low pressure? Thin paint? I don't have a lot of experience with "precision" airbrushing as I tend to use mine more like a spray can. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks, Mike
  3. WOW! Extra strength nail polish remover. I wiped the model with that using those cotton pads ladies use to remove makeup. Worked like a charm! A minimum amount of scrubbing took paint and primer off cleanly. No soaking. Total control over what got removed. No effect on the putty or glue near as I can tell. Good stuff!
  4. Thanks for all of your replies. It's Polly-Scale amd Testors acrylic paint over Krylon primer. Actually, nail polish remover took them both off down to bare plastic, but I had to scrub the heck out of it. I have used that in the past for small stuff but not a whole model. I might try the ammonia / sanding combination. The kicker is that I didn't even need the darn primer. I had forgotten to prime the wheel covers and drop tanks but painted them anyway. Paint went on fine. Those are gorgeous. Thanks, Mike
  5. Hi All, I have a 48 scale SU-25 mostly built. I sprayed it with white primer, but the finish was terrible - very grainy. So I lightly sanded it. I thought it would be OK with some paint over it but the paint didn't help. I really think the best option is to strip the whole thing down and start over. I have seen lots of suggested methods for this - Oven Cleaner, auto products, alcohol soak. I can't soak it or I'll lose my cockpit paint. I heard that oven cleaner will destroy putty. So, any suggestions for how to strip this thing that won't wreck my interior detail or putty work?
  6. OK, clearly I don't know squat about radios, but I am trying to model this accurately. I have Tamiya's 1:35 American M-16 half track, which I am modeling as a WWII subject. One of the crew figures is talking into a headset for a radio. The kit comes with a transciever that just sits on the floor and it seems to match portable transcievers that I found photos of. The reference photos I found show that there should be a line connecting the headset to the transciever and a short antenna attached to the top of the transciever. It looks like a self-contained unit. But then there is a "rad
  7. Very nice. So, the trick is not to use the applicator at all. Makes sense. Thanks for all of your suggestions. I will try a couple of these out and see what works best for me. -Mike
  8. Just kidding. I didn't eat CA glue. But I do have a question about it, having never used it before. I am using the ZAP gap-filling CA glue. It comes with a nice little "precision applicator" tip. The problem is that the cap doesn't fit on the end of said applicator. So, when I was done I had to remove the applicator to get the cap on and close it up. But that spilled the glue that was in the applicator. All rather awkward. Am I missing something here? Any trick to this? Thanks, Mike
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