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Ralph Nardone

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Everything posted by Ralph Nardone

  1. Yep, back in the '70s they had a NASCAR division...if memory serves, not only did Holman-Moody run a Torino, but didn't Cotton Owens also run a Dodge Charger 500? Which leads me to my build this year. I usually do a sports car model (and usually something that actually ran at Le Mans!)--previous builds have been a C5R, a Toyota GT-One, and a Sauber C9--but I didn't have anything this year that met the prime criteria: A: It was something I could reasonably get done in the alloted 24 hours, 2: Something that I could live with an OOB build of (I still have the Hasegawa and Tamiya Jaguar XJR-8 and XJR-9 kits in the stash, but I want to do those all proper-like) and C: It was close to the top of the pile. Nothing fit the bill, so I did the same thing I did for this year's Rolex 24 and built a street car. The Daytona build was Tamiya's 1/24 1999 Toyota Celica, the Le Mans build was Revell's excellent1/25 scale 2009 Dodge Challenger SRT8. I took a few liberties with the paint color on the Challenger, too... Pictures to follow, but not right now--the Canadian Grand Prix is on... Ralph
  2. The topic title says it all--who is going to build a car kit during this year's 24 Hours of Le Mans? I'm not sure what I'm going to build, but I will build something... Ralph
  3. I will once again state that I must be either A: living right or 2: occupying some wrinkle in the time-space continuum where acrylics don't lift. They don't peel. They don't scratch. I use Tamiya, Testor Acryl, and what few PollyScale and Floquil Railroad Acrylics I can still find. I wipe the model down with alcohol and spray away. I don't prime unless I've done a major conversion. I've used blue painter's tape, Tamiya tape, and even frosty Scotch tape to mask. I often add Future to the mix, I don't know if that's it or not, since I was also getting great results when I used plain old distilled water with PollyScale. I use Testor's Acrylic Thinner with the Acryls and Tamiya's acrylic (not lacquer) thinner for their acrylics. Ralph, acrylic paint user since 1982...
  4. Monogram did the early Cobra (an AH-1G if I'm not mistaken) back in the late 1960's. You can still find them from time to time--check with Rare-Plane Detective or look on Old Model Kits website. Matchbox and Kitech have also produced 1/72 AH-1G's... They're all older kits, but you can build nice models from them. Ralph
  5. AMT did do the -R model, and I believe that's also the plastic that Italeri reissued not too long ago. It shouldn't be too difficult to find. The Fujimi Phantoms aren't bad, either--once completed, they look like F-4's and build up pretty easily. Watch the cockpit tubs--they tend to leave gaps between the consoles and the fuselage sides. Academy's 1/72 A-10A is a close cousin of Hasegawa's--that was when Academy would change just enough on the kit to keep from being called a copycat. The big boo-boo is the door for the ladder--the lower notched corner is the opposite of the 1:1 A-10A. Easy enough to fix--close the door, fill the seam, and rescribe it correctly. Or leave it be. It doesn't really detract from the finished product. Of the others, AMT's late BUFF's had some issues, not least of which was the fact that they molded the wing in an in-flight condition--if you park the model on a flat surface, the tip protection gear was way too high off the ground, even for an empty-tank airplane. The engines on the -H model are too small, too. Back a few years ago, Paul Boyer updated and corrected one for FineScale Modeler--if you check the Kalmbach website, you might be able to order the back issue. That being said, they are the only kits that will get you a late BUFF without doing a conversion on Monogram's -D model. I never really noticed the too-small engines until someone pointed them out to me. Best way to do it is build it gear up and hang it from the ceiling (as I hear the masses gasp and faint)... The AC-130U also had a few goofs--the engine nacelles are kind of mis-shapen, and the kit generally is soft on details. Again, though, where else are you going to get a late Spectre? Sometimes you have to just built it. In the end, you have a model of an airplane that you might not be able to get. The best A-37 kit is Academy's, but Hasegawa's in 1/72 scale was all we had for years. Either way, you should be good to go. Monogram did a 1/48 version that was pretty neat, too. Academy's F-15's are nice--purists note that there are some shape issues with the kit, but they build up quickly, and again, nobody will mistake the model for a 1957 Chevy. Airliners are fun. I have a whole sub-collection devoted to airliners, particularly those that wore Air Florida and Braniff liveries. You might note, too, that my philosophy on model building is to do what YOU want--don't let the purists deter you from building a particular kit. If you think a model looks good, go for it. Don't get me wrong--I love the fact that there are people in the hobby who can spot shape and detail issues and point them out to us--after all, that spurs the kit designers to produce better kits--but for a good percentage of modelers, many don't care that the exit for the whatsits valve on the left side of the whoosits isn't there (and, taken to the extremes I've seen) which, then, makes the kit then utter crap and not worth looking at, let alone buying and building... As for the airbrush, Step 1 would be a good, thorough cleaning. Disassemble it, get some lacquer thinner, Q-Tips, and some of those soft interdental picks (G-U-M makes some--they look like little green rubber fir trees on white plastic picks), and carefully scrub it down. Make sure all the paint passages are squeaky clean. If it is an Aztek, I'd buy a new tip--don't waste time trying to disassemble it, they're cheap enough. (Actually, if it is an Aztek, I'd look into replacing it...) If it still doesn't work, you might contact the manufacturer and see if they can repair it--I know Badger will pretty much overhaul an airbrush in a week or so, at very little cost to boot. Most of the early Azteks had a lifetime warranty, but it is now a 3-year warranty (one reason I abandoned mine once they started to leak and went back to my tried and true Badger 150 and 200--and bought a 105 Patriot). The best way to go from inexperienced to experienced is the same as how you walk a mile--one step at a time. As I used to say on the forums back in the day, have fun--if you aren't, you're doing something wrong. Ralph
  6. My choices: Any of the C/KC/RC-135's: AMT did them in 1/72 scale, they can be a bit difficult to find. I believe that Testor's or Italeri reissued the KC-135 kit not too long ago. They have their pros and cons--you may need to add/delete some details to suit your particular aircraft. C-130's: Testor/Italeri's is best, they do both 1/72 and 1/48. An MC-130E would be a conversion, not sure if there are any available but someone else may know. A-10A: What time frame? Any of the early Davis-Monthan or Myrtle Beach planes, and I'd go with Tamiya's early kits in 1/48 (ESCAPAC seat, no chaff/flare boxes). Any later, and I'd use Monogram's (currently the kit is in Revell boxes). In 1/72, Hasegawa or Italeri make decent kits. I'm building a Revell (Monogram) kit now, and it has a few fit issues, but nothing a little bit of old fashioned modeling work can't fix. I also built Revell's orignal A-10A (it dates form about the same time as Tamiya's) in 1/48 scale. It also isn't a bad kit, but they have been long out of production. As a friend and I once discussed, the modeling world still needs a good, state-of-the-art A-10A kit...but there are a few that will fill the bill. F-4's: 1/48th scale, Hasegawa's are better than the others, although Monogram's kits are good, too (raised panel lines and all). 1/72 scale, and you'll also find Hasegawa does the better of the offerings. Revell GmbH also does the long-nose versions, usually in F-4F and RF-4E boxings. If they were to release an F-4C and F-4J based on these molds, they'd have winners. F-14: Hasegawa, both scales. Fujimi also does a very nice 1/72 scale Tomcat, but they were hard to find for a while--some like it better because it has a better shape to it. Hope this helps... Ralph
  7. Don't forget the Rolex Series on tape delay--SPEED at noon.
  8. The good thing about the Hobbycraft kit is that it is pretty good OOB--you don't have to worry about accuracy, because what they gave you is 99% there already. I built mine OOB, I only corrected the aileron outline. I added paper belts and basically enhanced what was already there. I'll have to get the Starfighter sheets--I have several more Hobbycraft kits in the stash... Keep posting pics... R
  9. I built the Hobbycraft kit back in '99. Yours looks good so far. If you don't have it, beg, borrow, or otherwise obtain the Aerofax Minigraph on the Peashooter--it clarified a lot when I built my kit. The Squadron Mini In Action also helped. A few items to note: 1. That cushion-looking deal on the aft cockpit bulkhead should be off-white--it was some sort of "luggage compartment", or so said the Aerofax. 2. You'll need to do some surgery on the flying and landing wire fairings on the wheel pants--they're a bit too large as they come in the kit. 3. The aileron outline isn't quite correct--you can correct it with a few swipes of a sanding stick or do as I did and ignore it. 4. Make sure to delete the carburetor intake stack if you're doing a P-26B with the fuel injection system. 5. Check your refs when assembling the exhausts to see whether or not your airplane had the upper collector or stubs all around. 6. Ditto on the refs to check whether or not your airplane had landing flaps. 7. Before you rig the airplane, check to see if your airplane had a wireless fitted, then add or delete the transmitter and receiver antennas as necessary. I like the portly little Boeing fighters. Enjoy your build! Ralph
  10. Answering all points: 1. Plastic-to-plastic: Any of the solvent type cements. I've used Tenax, Plastruct, and Ambroid in the past, and they all worked well. I'm using Tamiya's Extra Thin Cement at the present and it is good, too. They all have some pros and cons--for instance, the Tamiya Extra Thin seems to take a while to "grab" some kit plastic. Plastruct's Plastic Weld is strong stuff, developed for ABS-to-ABS joints. A little dab'll do ya, if you use too much you'll get glue sinks after a few months (where the softened plastic in a seam sinks--it usually happens after the model is finished, and thin sport (wing trailing edges, for sure) are the most affected. When I first started using liquid cements, that's what I used. I have no experience with their Bondene, but the ingredients, I'm sure, are probably the same as the other liquid cements intended for styrene-to-styrene joints. Tenax works very well, the big thing is being able to find it. Ambroid works great for me, but others have commented about the fact that after it dries for a while, you can experience "seam ghosting"--the seam will reappear and need to be filled, again usually after the model is finished and painted. Since it takes me a while to finish anything it isn't an issue for me. I've also used the Weld-On products (#3 and #4), another good choice. 2. Plastic to non-plastics (resin, metal, brass) and resin-to-resin: CA or epoxy. The Bob Smith brand is good stuff, but their CA tends to harden in the bottle quicker than most. I've used the stuff you find at Hobby Lobby for the past few years--I used a 1/4 ounce bottle of their thin CA until it was gone, a major feat for me. Don't discount the small tubes of Krazy Glue or generic Super Glue in the three-for $2 blister packs, either. For filling seams and the like, gel-type CA works quite well. Also, when using CA as a filler, add some baby powder to it--it turns into a paste that takes a bit longer to harden and sands easily. Bob Smith Epoxy is good, but again, don't feel you have to use a "hobby" brand--Duro makes 5-, 15-, and 30-minute epoxies that work just as well. 3. Canopies: Pacer's Formula 560 Canopy Glue--it is like white glue on steroids. Thin it with water, apply it with a brush. Works great. I also use it to attach ordnance and sometimes even landing gear--when you start hauling models around, sooner or later a landing gear will break or a pylon will fall off. If you use CA or solvent, you're almost forced to use CA as a temporary repair, then go back and add pins for the permanent repair, risking the paint job. With Canopy Glue, peel off the glue and re-attach. Sure, it takes a little longer to gram and hold, but since I started using it I haven't had to touch up any paint where a bond got broken. You can use Elmer's, too--I don't know if they still make it, but Elmer's used to come in black, it made the joint between the fuselage and the canopy look more in scale... If you make bases or diorama accessories from wood, Titebond is the stuff. I've not used any of the tacky craft glues, but others swear by them. Experiment--you might find a great use for something. Don't forget to share if you do... ;) Ralph
  11. "FarScape", by a wide margin over all others. I was bummed when SciFi canceled it. R
  12. A few more that got the MST3K treatment: "The Killer Shrews"--puppies with fake tusks "Attack of The Giant Leeches"--they got that way because space missions relied on "atomic boosters" "The Giant Gila Monster"--"And we sing whenever we sing whenever we sing...." "Teenagers from Outer Space"--featuring blown-up photos of lobsters as the space creature that would doom Earth. "When we return to our planet, the High Court may well sentence you to TORTCHA!" "The Brain that Wouldn't Die" featuring "Jan in a Pan" "Rocketship X-M" with Rocky Jones, Space Ranger And, without further fanfare, I give you.... "Eegah"--Richard Kiel ("Jaws" from the James Bond movies) as a caveman
  13. A few tips: First, here's how I do decals... The model is glossed--I use Future, but any clear gloss works--unless you've used gloss paint, in which case you shouldn't need a clear gloss. A tip within a tip--if you have an airbrush and want an almost bulletproof clear gloss, use Testor's Metallizer Sealer. Do so in a well ventilated area, though, since it has some pretty nasty fumes. Two quick, thin coats ought to be enough, all you want is a smooth surface. You should be ready to decal, if you're in a hurry (but what's the rush?), in the space of maybe an hour, 90 minutes.... Cut the decal from the sheet--I leave the clear fringe around the design, since most modern decals leave that feathered and the feathered edge will blend in. Older decals that have a continuous film may need to be trimmed to the design, or as close to the design as you feel comfortable.... Soak in warm (not hot) water. As Dick says, if you're local tap water is heavy with minerals and the like, use Distilled water. Leave the decal in for 30 seconds. Remove the decal from the water and set it on a paper towel. After about 30 seconds, gently see if the decal is loose from the backing sheet. If not, dip it again for about 10 seconds and let it set for another 20 of so seconds. In the meantime, put a drop of Set on the model. If you use Solvaset (I do), I'd advise diluting it with distilled water, as it is quite potent. When the decal moves on the backing sheet, use a tweezers (a stamp tweezers with blunt jaws is nice) or a damp brush to transfer the decal, backing sheet and all, to the model. Using the brush or the tip of a hobby knife blade, carefully slide the decal into position. If is doesn't want to slide, add a bit of water. If it still doesn't want to slide, try a bit of saliva. Yep, it sounds gross, but it does work with some of the Eastern European decals. Let the decal sit, face up, on the model for a few minutes. Let gravity do some of the work. If the decal looks like it is going to settle into and over the detail on the surface of the model, let it continue to sit on the model. If it looks like it is having difficulty conforming to the surface details, use a bit or Sol (or diluted Solvaset) on top. BEWARE: The decal will wrinkle, and you'll start pulling your hair out wondering what you did wrong. Be patient. The Sol relaxes the film and softens it into a goo--if you touch the decal at this point, you'll ruin it. Let it dry completely. Repeat with the other decals. I usually devote several sessions (evenings) to decals--one night, I'll do the left side, the next night I'll do the right side, and so on. Remember, let gravity do some of the work. Before you put the model up for the session, check for any trapped air bubbles--poke them with the tip of the hobby blade and apply more Sol. Once all the decals are on and have dried overnight, take a lint-free tissue or cloth dampened with Distilled Water and gently (very gently) wash off the residual decal adhesive--look at the model sideways under a light, you'll see a halo of adhesive around the decal, you want to remove that. It will eventually discolor. Don't scrub too hard, though, or you'll scrub parts of the decal off! Decal troubleshooting: If the decal won't release from the sheet, try some hot water. That may do the trick. If it still doesn't release, contact the manufacturer if it is a recent kit/decal or get a new aftermarket sheet. If the decal is stiff (some Revell AG decals actually break, they're so stiff!), move them into position as best you can, apply decal solvent (Micro Sol or diluted Solvaset) and let it work. Repeat every 15 minutes or so. Eventually, the decal will start to conform. If the adhesive seems weak, use the Future trick or add some White Glue to the decal water as suggested. If you've used Future as your gloss, you may wind up with frosty halos around the decal when they dry. Apply some more Future, it will fix it. The alcohol in the Solvent has caused that... If you see areas of silvering, try gently slicing the area with a new #11 blade and applying either Future or decal solvent. A combination of the two might be required... If you get some of those real stiff decals and they won't conform with the repeated applications of solvent, try using Solvaset straight from the bottle. If that won't work, use Future under the decal--you'll need to carefully move of lift the decal and wick the Future under the decal with a brush. Get the decal into position and let things dry. Repeat as necessary. In extreme cases, I've heard of people who have used liquid cement or lacquer thinner on decals to get them to conform. If you go that route, do so carefully or you might ruin your model. I'm not saying this is the only way to go, but these methods have worked well for me over the course of 20+ years. Ralph
  14. Zimmerit was made from the following: 40% Barium Sulfate (a white crystalline material) 25% Polyvinyl acetate (think yellow wood glue) 15% Ochre pigment (yellowish) 10% Zinc Sulfate (a whitish-yellowish compound) 10% sawdust (wood color, which would tend to the yellowish spectrum) It seems that it would be an ochre or yellow-tanish color. I'm experimenting with Elmer's Wood Filler in the Natural color for my Zimmerit. So far, so good.... Remember that if it was factory-applied, the metal would be primed with red oxide before the zimmerit was applied. I imagine that field-applied zimmerit was done over the Dunkelgelb/camo base.... Ralph
  15. I've wondered the same thing, James--I have friends who have to do everything via mail order, since they have no local shop. There's something else to it, too--I like going into the shops, chatting with the people there, and perusing the stacks. There's something that's a bit too sterile about mail/web ordering.... Does anyone remember these chain stores? They were around briefly in the late 1980's early 1990's at least in South Florida--Zak's and The Hobby Box. Both seemed like they went into business to go out of business--the store space was huge for the inventory they held.... Ralph
  16. In addition to what everyone else has said, a few tips: 1. See if you can at least hold the airbrush you plan to buy--some "fit" better than others. For instance, back when the Aztek 470 cam out, I bought one and liked the way it fit my hand, but a fellow club member hated the way it felt in his hand. 2. What kind of spare parts does your local guy carry? Does he carry spare parts (tips, needles, seals), or will he have to order them? If he has to order them, you might want to pick up at least a spare set of seals and maybe a tip/needle.... I'll second the notion that this is an investment an investment that can last a lifetime. As I tell the folks who sit through my airbrushing seminars, you can pay $20 for an airbrush every year for five years, or pay $100 and have the tool last forever..... My suggestions: Badger 200. Internal mix, single action airbrush, I used one for years to do all sorts of painting--including camo schemes in 1/72 scale. Badger 150, the dual action version of the 200. Works good, lasts a long time. The airbrush I've been using since I parted ways with my Azteks. Badger 105 Patriot, my new airbrush that I have barely an hours' time using--but I like it so far. Someone mentioned the Badger "Garage Sale", and if they had Patriots included, I'd have bought one. Once you get the airbrush, practice. You can't get god unless you use the tool. The biggest thing to remember is that there is very little you can do to "screw up" a model that can't be "un-screwed".... Ralph
  17. When it comes to acrylics, of late I've been using the Testor Acryl and Tamiya line. I used to use PollyScale exclusively, but Testor's has apparently decided to phase it out.... I am one of the few people, it seems, who has had very little trouble with the Acryls--I've never had an adhesion issue (and I rarely ever prime my models) and I've only had one airbrushing issue traced to an old bottle of paint. I guess I must be either living in a warp of some sort or living right.... I used to use a mix of Future Floor Finish and Isopropyl alcohol to thin acrylics, but lately I've been using the brands' own proprietary thinners. Ralph
  18. Orange Blossom went Tango Uniform in 2001. Some of the better shops I've supported over the years include the aforementioned Orange Blossom, as well as Warrick Custom Hobbies (sadly, their plastics department has shrunk since I worked there), Universal Hobbies (now defunct), and RC Hobbies in the Ft. Lauderdale area; Dunn Brothers Hardware/Toy and Hobby, Ace Hobbies, Sky LTD and HobbyCraft Junction in the Daytona Beach area (all four shops are now defunct); Hobby and Garden in Greenwood, SC (not doing too much of the Hobby part these days); Golden Strip Hobbies in Simpsonville, SC (now defunct); AAA Hobbies in Marietta, GA; Hobby Stop in Rock Hill, SC; the various HobbyTown USA locations in and around Augusta, Atlanta, and Kennesaw, GA; Columbia and Greenville, SC (I managed one of the Columbia stores briefly, and still stop in once a week to lend a hand); Knoxville, TN; Charlotte, NC; and Ormond Beach, FL; and any one of the dozens of small Mom and Pop shops I've managed to stumble upon in my travels around the Southeast. I've also indirectly helped to support the shops in Anchorage, AK and Skyway Model Shop in Seattle. I wouldn't have supported any of them if they didn't have what I was looking for, either as a local resident (aka "regular") or a drop in on a trip. Ralph
  19. I've never used a turntable in my years of modeling--I usually devise a method to hold the model while I paint it. I've used pencils in tailpipes of jets, I've used masking tape loops to hold a car body to the top of a spray can, I've bent up wire that I insert into the landing gear sockets, or, lacking anything else, I'll use the Mk. I hand (suitably protected with a nitrile or latex glove of course). After you've been airbrushing for a while, you'll develop methods of your own. R
  20. Only when necessary--you shouldn't have to "overhaul" an airbrush that often, if ever. From Badger's "Airbrushing 101" link I posted earlier: ----------------------------------------------- Cleaning – Step one: The key to keeping an airbrush clean is to not let material set up (dry) in it. This can be done by spraying the appropriate cleaning agent through the airbrush with reasonable frequency (when changing color and when setting the airbrush to rest for any period of time). Two important things to remember: 1. Material dries as fast in an airbrush as it does on the surface it is being sprayed on to. 2. Anything you think will take 2 seconds will take 2 minutes, and anything you think will take 2 minutes will usually take at least 20 – so spray the cleaner. Step two: Should material set up (dry) in the airbrush, it may be necessary to back flush the airbrush. This is done by suffocating the air flow of the airbrush at the nozzle by carefully “pinching” a soft cloth or paper towel over the nozzle’s end. This will deflect the air back into the airbrush chamber and loosen any dried material, sending it into the cleaning bottle. If done correctly, the cleaner will bubble during back flushing. It is advisable to spray fresh cleaner through the airbrush after you have back flushed it. Step three: On what should be rare occasions it may be necessary to disassemble some parts of the airbrush for more thorough cleaning. This should only be done if the user has neglected to do step one of regularly spraying cleaner through the airbrush, and/or step two of back flushing is unsuccessful in getting the airbrush to spray properly again. If disassembly is required, it should be only of parts that come in contact with the sprayed material; from the material’s point of entry into the airbrush and forward. The included parts for disassembly are the nozzle assembly and the needle. To thoroughly clean the nozzle assembly, use an ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner (yes, denture cleaner – follow the directions on the package). The needle should simply be wiped down with a soft cloth saturated with the appropriate cleaning agent. If residue on the needle is still apparent it may be removed by gently rubbing a fine steel wool over the residual deposit area. While the needle and nozzle are removed from the airbrush it is OK to run a pipe cleaner saturated with cleaning agent through the chamber of the airbrush, following the same path as sprayed material, and out the airbrush front. For bottom feed airbrushes that is up the stem and out the front, for gravity feed airbrushes it is down the color cup and out the front. Only do this when the needle and nozzle are removed as forcing anything through the nozzle will damage it. After using the pipe cleaner, blow out the airbrush to remove any pipe cleaner “fuzz”. After all nozzle/needle cleaning steps are complete the airbrush can be reassembled and will be ready for use. This disassembly process should be rarely necessary if steps one and two are followed, but it is recommended if storing your airbrush for an extended period of time. ------------------------------------------------------------------ So, unless you plan on using the airbrush and storing it for a few months, Steps 1-3 should get the job done. I have the two Badgers, and while I've replaced the needle in the 150 once, the tip and needle in the 200 once, replaced the spray regulator with a crown regulator, and the head O-Rings several times, the only "major" repair to either has been the replacement of the PTFE needle bearing in the 200--and that only because a friend once tried to be helpful and ruined the needle bearing. My 200 is now 32 years old, and my 150 is 20 years old.... Ralph
  21. The auto body-type putties contain solvents. The putty hardens when the solvent evaporates, this is called curing. The reason you want to keep the application thin is so that you won't trap a lot of solvents under a thick layer--the solvents will eventually evaporate, and if you have a thick layer of putty, you will develop what's called a sink--a depressed area in the final surface. Rule of thumb--keep the applications under 1/32" thick. Let the putty dry overnight. Use the sniff test--if you sniff it and can still smell solvent, it hasn't fully cured. Build up thick areas gradually, or use some other type of filler that won't shrink as they cure, eliminating the sinks. Epoxy putty, CA (super glue) and microballoons (or baby powder), and scraps of sheet styrene all work well when you need to build up a lot of surface. Same goes for wide gaps--instead of using tons of putty, use some stretched sprue (take a runner from the kit, heat it over a candle, and pull the ends apart--you'll "pull" a thin thread of plastic) or sheet styrene to bridge the gap, or use one of the other non-shrinking fillers I mentioned above. Something else I do is to give the glue joints a little squeeze a few seconds after I apply the cement--this will really only work if you use a liquid cement, because CA's dry too quick and tube glues are messy. The squeeze will push a little bead of plastic out of the seam, doing most of the filling in the process. Let dry overnight, sand, and you're usually good to go. You can glue the seams with CA, let the glue cure (which, for CA, means a minute or two), then use a little more on top as a filler. Be sure to sand CA as soon as you are able, because it gets harder over time. That's one reason, I'm sure, why Gil likes mixing the CA with baby powder--it sands a bit easier.... Ralph
  22. I doubt that the lacquer thinner "killed" the Model Master airbrush--I used to clean mine with Floquil's Dio-Sol (back when the paints contained Xylene) and never had an issue. As someone who used (and liked) the Model Master, the fact that sooner or later the body would leak paint and the fact that I was replacing nozzles frequently made me return to my Badger 200 and 150. Both are fine tools that will last a lifetime. The Aztek (nee Model Master) started out as a fantastic tool, but it got that it required trips back to the factory for repair. When the warranty was lifetime on the Aztek, fine--but now it is a 3-year warranty.... Most regulators either come with no fitting or a basic 1/4" NPT male-male nipple. Badger's hose connectors (like most airbrushes) is a proprietary fitting, but they do make an adapter that will work. It is Badger P/N 50-023. Something else you might want to consider is a braided hose. Badgers usually come standard with a vinyl hose that doesn't really work that well with a compressor--it may do fine with the gas bottle, though.... And, last, a link: http://www.badgerairbrush.com/PDF/airbrush101printfinal.pdf Actually, Badger's site is full of great info. Check it out, including the "Garage Sale" link. From time to time, they have great deals on airbrushes that are either surplus or cosmetically damaged. It is PayPal only, though, so if you don't do PayPal.... Cheers! Ralph
  23. This is from Badger, but will work with all airbrushes as long as you account for the differences in assembly procedure, etc. http://www.badgerairbrush.com/PDF/airbrush101printfinal.pdf Ralph
  24. As has been mentioned, you will want to drop the pressure--50psi is a bit high. Also, invest in a new tip--sounds like the one you have is blocked. You can (although Testor's doesn't recommend it) disassemble the tip and clean it. Be careful not to split the actual tip orifice. That should get you going again. If you want to go new, I'll concur on looking at Badger--I've been using Badger products since 1978 and they haven't let me down. I like them so much, in fact, that I just ordered a new Badger 105 Patriot on Friday.... Ralph
  25. If the gap is real tiny, try white glue--run a bead of white glue into the seam and after it sets up for a minute or two, wipe off the excess with a damp rag. Ralph
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