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Everything posted by LesWalden

  1. I've seen the saw before. With all these recommendations, I'll just have to get one. Christmas is coming!
  2. A Coast Artillery disappearing 10" gun and emplacement would be nice.
  3. How about one for the ship guys shooting down aircraft and armor? We get little or nothing. And Mark if you don't like it, think about your 100 mm guns agains 16 inch battleship guns. We can reach out and touch you.
  4. Mark's picture on Boresight? Well it is about Halloween. Thank goodness I don't get it.
  5. Adding to that you can always get the program Adobe Photoshop Elements and crop, recolor or whatever to your photos before you print them.
  6. When I was in the Army in the 60's my jeep was OD on the engine compartment and bottom of the jeep. It had probably been repainted a couple of times. The outside of the body and crew compartment were black/green, way darker than OD.
  7. I don't think you can go wrong with a Badger 200. I have two, a top feed and a bottle feed and am very happy with both. The strong parts are they're fairly inexpensive, good service if you need it (just send it into Badger), parts are readily available at most craft shops, hobby shops and some hardware stores. No matter which brand you buy, the main thing is to keep it clean, handle it with care and it will last you a long time.
  8. Golf is for wimps. I'm going to be a football player and go for the higher score. Remember, he who has all the marbles, wins.
  9. I will never have owned, let alone built that many models in my life.
  10. I've got a 1/144 Fletcher, a Lindber Minesweeper, a Verlinden Coast Artillery piece that I've got going. Probably get the Coast Artillery piece off first (It's a freebee for a Museum). The other two will be backlogged in November as I've committed to build a 1/200 Arizona for one of the club members. It's going to be a long year. I never seem to have the time and ambition together so I can work on anything. Hopefully, the rainy season will change all of that.
  11. Dennis, As long as it doesn't get too low. I have an image to preserve. PS: I see you're doing the Panzer IV J. If you haven't got it, you might get the Kagero Book. It's really good.
  12. I've got to work on mine. It says "0." I never was a good example, have always strived to be a bad one. I've got to get going and get it up in the high "90's."
  13. Mark, How in the world do you get paint on your wrist???? I've gotten it on shirts, pants and hands but never up my arm. You must be a wild man with an airbrush. Your wife probably wishes that you used the same color on the models as there is on the walls. I can only visualize the inside of your painting area. :o
  14. There you go Mark. You can paint the women for Patti's Women at War special award at the NOPMS Show next June.
  15. Most often I have to use my hand. A three foot model doesn't work on a turn table very well. Anything small goes on a turn table. I have some latex gloves, but never can seem to remember to use them. You can tell what I've been painting by the color of my hands.
  16. I disassemble and clean my Badger 200's between each color. Never had a problem with paint plugging.
  17. Actually, I only got it on me once. I was cleaning the packs before shift change and neglected to put on a face shield. I got a small glob on my lower lip. Cooled it off and removed it and went home. I had to go to the doctor, so I told him I had burnt my face with bacon grease. The next shift at work I told the same story. No accident report, no L&I. Almost everyone got some on them at one time or another. Usually it was on our coveralls.
  18. Molten plastic can be painful and leave a lasting scar. When I worked in R&D, we were working with a molten plastic process. We had two of the guys get some on their arms. One of the guys has a scar to this day. The other one. after letting it cool, immediately treated it with "DMSO. He said it burned like fire. It never blistered and he healed completely and no sign that it had ever been burned. Also, if you do get molten plastic on you, get cold water on it immediately. Do not try to remove it until it's cold or you'll loose some skin.
  19. I have been told that your gauge (the second one) you're going to adjust the pressure on the air brush should have a range that the needle is mid range when shooting. Example: If you shoot at 10-20 psi, you would want a gauge that the maximum pressure is 30 or 40 lbs. I rarely run above 10 pounds, so I have a 25 lb gauge.
  20. I use a Tamiya stirer that is like a smaller edition of the putty spatulas I use. I don't filter the paint.
  21. Looks good to me. Nice job.
  22. Dick, When I painted figures I found that I would put the base color on with acrylics. After that had dried for a day or so, I would do my shading and highlighting with artists oils (they're very forgiving). For the face I used burnt seinna for general shadows with burnt umber for areas like under the nose, lips, chin and jaw. A little red was touched to the lips (veeery little). I used white to highlight by blending it into the burnt seinna on the nose, forehead and cheeks. The main thing with figures is to do the eyes first. You add the personality there. If you don't like the way they look, paint them out and do them again. Beware of the thousand yard stare. No matter how well you paint the rest of the figure, if the eyes are bad it will kill the presentation. Hope this helps. You might email Patti to see what her technique is. She paints a little differntly than I do.
  23. Only problem is...........what's an App???? For that matter what's an IPod???? For those of us who aren't into technology, go to an Art Supply and get a conversion wheel. About the same price.
  24. Welcome to the board. Good to see somene from the West Coast on.
  25. Mark, I don't see why you couldn't air brush it. I don't remember if it's water soluable or not, but I think it is. You'd have to try it out on a spare piece of plastic and decal first.
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