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Everything posted by LesWalden

  1. What's to destroy. Very nice work. Thanks for the photos.
  2. I'm married to a quilter who paints figures. I started out with a large shop (holds about 3 cars) for my tools and modeling. Now, I have about a 1/4 to 1/3 of it. You'd think she was a Marine the way she invades and takes over.
  3. My guess is a gloss coat of some kind. Try painting a piece of scrap plastic first, when it dries put it over the top of the paint and see what happens.
  4. Link wouldn't load for me. Just a blank screen.
  5. As a past figure modeler, I would say that presentation is important. But, if the figure is poorly painted, no amount of base work should override it. Usually it's not a problem, as the base will probably be poorly executed as well.
  6. Looks like a Mk II conversion of some kind. Definately German.
  7. I can't help you with the kit, but you might try ebay. The other thing to do would be to check out the car modeling sites and forums. Post it on the auto modeling part of this site. Maybe someone can help.
  8. Accepted!?? I've tried card modeling. I marvel at you guys.
  9. Mark, Don't have a picture, but from the looks of it, it would be some sort of gear reduction thing with a chain hanging from the bigger end and another chain with a hook hanging from the other end. It's probably a gear reduction type thing with a cover.
  10. Best - Tamiya Panzer III M/N - The early one, actually most of their early tanks were good builds. Worst - Special Navy Type XXI U-boat - Round hull and no locating pins, what were they thinking of? Parts that were made of resin that could have been plastic would probably made it cheaper. Photo etch snorkle that could have been engineered better for much easier assembly. Just a few of the things I remember.
  11. We called you infantry guys "cricket crunchers" or "field rats." I was in a SADS (Special Ammunition Direct Support) compnay. We supplied Honest John missiles to artillery companies.
  12. Now, let's not get involved in the limited reading skills of tread heads. They do the best they can. However, it really makes me wonder why Wingnuts can put out a full color set of instructions in their kits and some companies can't do a basic set of instructions. Gone are the days of parts that had the name of the part and number on the instructions. I remember how we used to laugh at the English in the first kits from Japan. I would think the internet, with multi-lingual people who could write them a set of instructions, these problems persist. But, then again, I build ships and what do I know?
  13. I use Dull Coat in the rattle can and never have had a problem. I've sprayed it over both oil base paint and acrylics. I just make sure to put on a couple of light coats and let them dry before I spray a heavier coat.
  14. I assume you mean the liguid. I use the Bare Metal Foil decal film through an inkjet printer. The Microscale decal liquid is applied over it to seal it. If you brush it, you will probably smear the ink.
  15. Sorry, I just can't leave them alone. I'm a sick, sick man.
  16. Here's how I've done it. Scan it in to your photo files. Then if you have Publisher or another printing program, bring it up and copy the image to a blank page. You can then resize it any way you wish. Print it and use Micro Decal Solution (Not the setting solution). It is rather thick and put it over the printed area. Do not brush it. Just put some on and let it spread by itself. You might want to make several copies in case you mess up the first few times. After it dries, cut it out and apply it to the model just as you would a factory decal. Hope this helps.
  17. Building an older ship model requires lots of scratchbuilding and time. I've built the Matchbox/Revell Snowberry/Blue Bell/ etc. The only parts I didn't scratch was the stanchions that had have cables run through them and the 20mm guns that I took from a couple of Airfix Rescue Boats. It took a long time. I started the Lindberg Minesweeper only to find the information on the bridge layout was very sparce until recently. The bottom line is that when you compare a ship model in 1/72nd scale to an airplane, it's apples to oranges. I do enjoy the scratchbuilding part, except that it takes a long time and burn out is a problem. Aftermarket parts are sometimes available, but I'm too cheap to buy them when I can make them myself.
  18. Adfogel said: The thought of building any airplane makes me run away and scream. I build ships. If you want to give an older kit a try, build the Lindberg Blue Devil Destroyer. Many have tried to make it right and many have failed.
  19. The only problem I have with the older stuff is that I spend a lot of time fixing their mistakes and the capabilities of the moldings.
  20. I'm surprised Revell hasn't jumped on that. They made a bit of money on Star Wars models.
  21. Back when I was a young modeler, we used candle wax to fill and customize cars. Only drawback was that it takes a lot of paint to cover it. How far we've come.
  22. Mark A. said: Be careful what you wish for. (Ed. Scale Nuts)
  23. I've used both Tenax and Weld On and like them both. Weld On is just easier to obtain. I remember reading the label on the Tenax bottle that said it could cause cancer in California. Thank goodness I live in Washington.
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