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LesWalden

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Everything posted by LesWalden

  1. I might have known. Sorry, I didn't go back up to the top to refresh my memory. Forget it Mark.
  2. The Panzer I is a Leicht (sp) Panzer or Light Tank. Mark, I have some books that might help. Be glad to loan them to you. We could meet in Silverdale. Email me if you want them.
  3. Picked this up on the Steel Navy site. http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=HEAFcAhoqOA
  4. 1/44 Fletcher mid-war 1/44 Fletcher late-war 1/44 Gearing WWII 1/72 Minesweeper WWII 1/72 Subchaser WWII
  5. Hand shake!??? What hand shake????? Nobody told me about it. Seriously, I too think it is a good move for the society!
  6. I've alway used Dull Coat from the can with good results.
  7. I've used Polly Scale and Tamiya and like them both. The main problem with Tamiya is there just isn't enough colors. They need to concentrate on expanding for Armor, Aircraft and Ships. Both paints seem to go on good.
  8. 1/144 late war Fletcher. 1/72 USN WWII Sub Chaser 1/72 USN WW II Mine Sweeper 1/200 late war USS Texas
  9. I'd suggest you have someone take a picture of your head from several different angles. Try to figure out what the different tones are. Then start with the darkest base color for a base and progressively work out until you have the lightest shade.
  10. I would say that a lot of it would be which shade of redhead do you want. The colors run from strawberry blonde to auburn. Good colors to start with would probably be burnt sienna, orange, red and burnt umber. Rust might be a good base color. Experiment is the best way.
  11. Welcome aboard! And armor only rules until met with naval gunfire!
  12. Try a fly fishing shop. They will have some fine lines. You can refer to them as leaders also. I mainly stay in 72nd scale and use 6 lb. line. For 350th you'd probably need to drop down to 1 lb or lower.
  13. David Knights said: One word...............................Arizona
  14. I also use Q-tips and pipe cleaners. I break the brush down and clean it between colors and when I finish. I'll clean the paint cup or bottle and run cleaner through it, back flushing. Then the tips are taken off and soaked in a jar of cleaner. While that's happening, I clean out the siphon tube, needle, and body of the air brush. By that time the tips are usually pretty clean and I finish them off with the Q-tip or pipe cleaner. Then I run more cleaner through the brush to make sure everything is clean. I then re-assemble the brush and continue on with the next color or store the brush.
  15. I use mostly acrylics and use alcohol to clean the brush. If it's stubborn, I'll switch to lacquer thinner. Art stores have some brush cleaners that would probably work, but I'd be careful with any non-metal parts in the airbrush.
  16. I have a large shop with a propane heater w/fan. It warms it up great. Also use one of those oil filled electric heaters to keep things from freezing off when I'm not there. I've always thought that if I didn't have the room to model, I'd buy a small camping trailer for a hobby room. A little conversion and you could have a workshop with power.
  17. High on my list are mid and late fit 1/144 Fletcher kits.
  18. I'm also a Badger fan. I have two Model 200s, one gravity feed and one bottle feed. They do everything I want them to do. You just have to play with the air flow and paint consistancy to get the size line you wish.
  19. I put mine in a seperate plastic bag. I go there first and if there isn't the size I need I use new one. The same can be done with strips, tube, rod, etc.
  20. Got you beat Mark. I have a plastic roller cabinet with three drawers of the stuff. The top drawer is for odds and ends. The next drawer is for flat stock and the last drawer is for shapes (round stock, tube, channel, I-beams, sheets, etc.) You just can't have too much plastic. I also keep a lot of odd shaped things from other kits that I've built (I dabble in Sci-Fi) too.
  21. I don't do aircraft very often but, I would spray a gloss coat, apply decals, spray another gloss coat, do the wash, dry brush anything that I want to stand out and finally spray a flat coat. I usually use artists oils with tupeniod for my wash. Tupeniod is a non-odor thinner that won't penetrate your acrylics. You can get it at most art stores. Hope this helps.
  22. Plane with claymore mines.........fasinating!
  23. Looks good to me. Nothing wrong that I can see. Good job!
  24. My, but you're a high maintenance guy. Hope you're worth it to her! :D
  25. Jabow said: No, it only has to please the judges. If you're not there for the trophy, it doesn't matter. The thing is that what judges deem as good art one year, may change in a year or two. If art is the main thing judges look for, then they should be called art critics, not judges. As someone said, model to suit yourself. If you're after awards, do what's popular at the time. If you're entering to show your stuff, support the show or any number of other reasons, model to please yourself.
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