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Everything posted by LesWalden

  1. I see Micro Mark has a new tube cutter out. You might try looking at their site.
  2. Welcome to Washington modeling Barry. The Green Dragons are a good bunch of people to share the hobby with.
  3. Yes, Dick was only a few miles from me too. Come on back out Dick, visit the Key Port Underwater Museum, the Turner Joy, Bremerton Naval Museum and Forts Worden, Casey and Flagler. Don't forget that NOPMS meets every 1st and 3rd Thursday of the month.
  4. With that title name for a minute, you had me all excited about this thread. :D Good post if you're an A/C modeler.
  5. I get a kick out of some of this stuff. When I was in research I was regularly exposed unprotected to MEK, Hexane, Tri-Cloreythlene (It's great for removing paint from lead figures and it turns your hands white.) caustic soda, clorine dioxide, clorine, SO2 and a multitude of other chemicals. At 66 I'm still around and doing fine.
  6. No problem. This is the world market place. Just buy it out of country. They're not going to open every piece of mail, UPS and Fed Ex that enters the country. I rember when the wall was up. Had friends that traded models and decals with swastickas with the Cheks through the mail. Never had a problem.
  7. Don't know about that, but I think their spray can paint is lacquer based.
  8. You might try R&J Enterprises. They specialize in armor aftermarket and figures.
  9. Thanks, I've checked Red Lancers with no success. Will try Sentinel. Who is the maufacturer, Beniento?
  10. Picture didn't come through, but yes I believe it is. Went to their website and it was soooooo slooooow. Couldn't get the picture up on it either. Who makes it?
  11. At Nats there was a U-boat model with a bust of Eric Topp. Can anyone tell me who manufacturers it and is it available?
  12. My wife just had that conversation at our club meeting with Rich from R&J Enterprises. He casts resin armor aftermarket parts. He said he uses CA and baking soda to fill small holes. It cures right away and can be sanded immediately.
  13. I really am not in love with it. I'd rather scratch build the part if I can. Doing it increases build time, but I don't worry about deadlines. It's a hobby. As I do large ships (1/72) I do find doors hatches and the like very helpful. Handrails on that size ship just don't look right to me. I'll most likely scratch them too. My hats off to the guys who do 350 and 700 ships. PE really makes those models stand out.
  14. Hold n' Fold works great. If you want to make round bends, they have a tool for that too that's very useful. Check out The Small Shop website.
  15. The Small Shop has a tool for rounding PE that works good.
  16. Afterburner, Come away from the dark. Come to the light (ships).
  17. Mark said: That's why Clear Flat was invented.
  18. Make sure your paint is well stirred. Don't try to short cut here. Then make sure you have a good quality brush. Brushes are expensive, but if you take care of them, they'll last a long time. Another tip is to brush up and down, not horizontal. Use several light coats. Let them dry completely before you start the next coat or you'll just roll the paint and get lumps. Hope this helps.
  19. But, will it be sold in California? I remember reading the label that said it may cause cancer in California. Luckily, I live in Washington, so I guess I'm safe.
  20. A couple years ago I saw a motorcycle at a contest that was painted with Tamiya Spray Can. It looked like that was the color of the molded plastic. Smoothest paint job I've seen that didn't look too heavy.
  21. The car guys I know use a lot of clear coats with sanding between to achieve that shiny finish. Some use rattle can enamel clear coat and some use good old Future Floor Wax. With Future, you don't have to sand between coats as it fills all the low spots.
  22. At our last meeting one of the guys mentioned a hazard with super glue burning you. It seems he got some one his clothing and it caused enough heat to burn him. I don't know if this is a problem with all clothing materials or just some. I'm reluctant to be a "Test Dummy" for it.
  23. As long as we're throwing in monkey wrenches, you might also take a look at the ones sold in craft stores that come in a plastic bottle. They have a very wide range of colors and are cheap. I've used them a couple of times with good results. You just have to thin them. I use rubbing alcohol to thin it. As with all acrylics, I would first primer the model. Almost any brand of rattle can will do, but I use Model Master. Another two cents from me.
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