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Everything posted by SkyKing

  1. Thanks for the confirmation. I have the FM Gerfaut II but am looking for the Griffon II to add to my delta wings collection. The only alternatives seem to be a pricey resin kit or scratchbuilding.
  2. This is said to be FM kit number 7201, but was it ever produced? I recall seeing the 1/48 kit by Fonderie Miniature but not the 1/72 version.
  3. Let's hope it's more accurately shaped than their Banshee. What a kludge that is!
  4. As the person who started this thread, I feel obligated to respond to Nick's comment. My original suggestion was in no way meant to demean the contributions of the volunteer members of the Reviewer Corps or Eric's work as web developer, and I resent your attempting to change the subject of this discussion so as to imply that I or anyone else was accusing them of "lousy service." As to your comment that "the time they spend providing these services is time they cannot spend building models," I would point out that we ALL have limits on our time, and including the scale (something the review
  5. Thanks. Re: Shapeways I've learned you need to order whatever part you want in the best configuration - ultra fine detail (or whatever they are calling it now) to not have the obvious grow lines. It's more $$ but to me it's worth it not to have to spend all that extra time sanding the lines away. I saw a recent tutorial on YouTube where the guy uses acetone vapors to "melt" the lines away from a part grown with abs. But until I try it, or see someone else besides the guy on the vid try it, I wouldn't recommend putting an expensive piece in with the acetone. I have those Shapeways p
  6. I was not aware AMT made a 1/32 Avanti. I am now!
  7. I recommend Tamiya's liquid cements as well. Testors liquid is also good. There's also a liquid cement made by Faller, a German model railroad company. It's sold in a squeeze bottle with a metal tube nozzle. It's thicker than most liquid cements but not as thick as tube glue, and I find it ideal for cementing wings to fuselages and other major joints. You can usually find it at hobby shops that specialize in model railroads. I also endorse Duke Madddog's suggestion to attend his Hobby Day. Forums like this are good, but you can learn far more about model building by joining an IPMS ch
  8. I'd suggest starting by reading the kit instructions and studying them thoroughly, then following them. It should be obvious what should be done first. Use a marker or pen to mark through the part numbers as you install them. That'll help you remember what you've done as well as help you build in a logical sequence. For example, you can't glue the fuselage halves together and glue the canopy on then expect to install the cockpit. It's not rocket science.
  9. So we're slaves to an automated database? Ridiculous. How hard would it be to put the scale field first? And why is it necessary to include "kit" when all aftermarket parts such as Quickboost, Pavla, Aries, etc., are for a KIT! So then the title would be, to use your examples: 1/48 P-51B/C/D Mustang Propeller w/Tool by Quickboost for Tamiya
  10. Would the members of the Reviewer Corps kindly put the SCALE of the kit/aftermarket part/decal in the review title? It is somewhat aggravating to click on a review of something that sounds interesting and then start to read it only to find that the item is not applicable to my preferred scale. This does not sound like too much to ask.
  11. All your Future questions answered here: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
  12. Those appear to be Italeri releases, not Hasegawa!
  13. You can also use clear enamel/acrylic. Paint it on canopy edges with a fine brush then stick canopy in place.
  14. Nice job. I wish you could put the Hodgepodge photoetch back in production, especially the generic stuff. Very handy it was!
  15. Speaking for myself, that's a great idea! Even consolidating the separate parts into one thread when the build is complete would be great. Then it can be saved for future reference as a web page which can be opened in any browser.
  16. Neil Gaunt, founder/proprietor/chief designer of Aircraft in Miniature, manufacturer of the forthcoming Cessna 310 kit, has asked me to post this message: "I am reading so much about our first DH86 kit that I would like to put the record straight. "It was produced in the mid to late 1990s, and was a vacformed fuselage with resin flying surfaces, metal detail parts and silkscreen printed decals. The masters were made by Roger Hardy who started the Rug Rat range. We have always used heavy (2mm) polystyrene for the large models and so used our standard material. As a result, the corners never f
  17. These are just the masters for the resin parts. Detail parts (landing gear, props) will be metal, and cabin top/windows will be vac-formed. Decals will be included, but I don't know details as yet. I myself am working on a decal sheet for Sky King's "Songbird." I've been promised a kit when they are ready, and I will be posting a detailed review. The Albatross will have full cockpit and cabin detail. The cabin windows are intended to be glazed with liquid glazing. Decals will be for "Fortuna" of Imperial Airways.
  18. Masters for Cessna 310B/U-3A in both 1/72 and 1/48: A close-up of the 1/72 masters: A close-up of the 1/48 masters: Masters for the de Havilland DH.91 Albatross in 1/72: Kits will be available from Hannant's in due course. Having assisted in the design of the 310B kit, I am very pleased at the appearance of the masters. What you see in the photos are masters for the resin parts. Details (landing gear, props, cabin seats, etc.) will be metal, and the cabin will be vacformed clear. The Albatross will come with decals for Imperial Airways, while the 310 will be issued
  19. As would I! And I'll add my thanks for your past work on behalf of the Society.
  20. With the development and marketing of many new brands of hobby paint over the last few years, there are many variables, as the above posts point out. But in my experience you can never go wrong if you consistently apply enamels over lacquers and not the other way around. Water-based paints can go over either of them.
  21. The first sci-fi TV show I ever remember seeing was "Rocky Jones, Space Ranger," which aired in the mid-1950s and was in many ways a precursor of "Star Trek." I've long wanted a model of the hero ship from that series and have done a lot of research into the design by studying screen snaps from the show and preparing my own scale drawings. That research, as well as the Mechanical Drawing classes I took in high school and college, has paid off. See here, and note the credit in "About the Model." (The drawings shown are not mine, but are temporary placeholders; the multi-color exploded view is m
  22. The latest GSA document was FS 595C, but this is now an SAE document, version A. The colors are the same in both.
  23. The General Services Administration, previous managers of this specification, have asked SAE Committee G-8 Organic Coatings to take over document management. See here:http://standards.sae.org/amsstd595/ http://www.sae.org/servlets/paintChips.do?method=load&contentType=RM&prodGrpCd=B60
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