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SkyKing

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by SkyKing

  1. According to a spokesman for Rustoleum, Testors' parent company, "The 9580D International Military & Figure Enamel was recently discontinued due to the lack of support for it in the marketplace."
  2. And there was one on Long Island that I visited back in the '70s. And also one in San Francisco, I think.
  3. You're welcome, and yes, Carrollton is where Squadron was and still is, less than a mile from my apartment. I was Editor for Squadron/Signal publications from 2005 to 2007, until the business was sold and new owner hired a know-nothing "Senior Editor" who fired me after I trained him. I no longer support Squadron in any manner whatsoever.
  4. I think only the moderators can delete posts. But you can add another post to the thread saying "Disregard" or something to that effct.
  5. See Rule 2: 1. Computing scale Scale of model or drawing = prototype dimension ÷ model or drawing dimension Example: A prototype has a wingspan of 40 feet, or 480 inches. A model of the prototype has a wingspan of 10 inches. What is the scale of the model? Dividing 480 by 10 we get 48. The scale of the model is 1/48. 2. Converting from one scale to another Percentage of reduction or enlargement = denominator of scale you have ÷ denominator of scale you want (Interesting Fact: a scale is a fraction. The bottom number is the denominator). Example 1: You have a 1/72 scale drawing but want t
  6. "Airfradt"??? Is this related to "covfefe"? :D All kidding aside, that site is a great source of reference.
  7. It has been suggested (on another forum) that clear polyurethane varnish might be a better adhesive for this technique than CA glue.
  8. It's in your signature! Welcome back to the fold. I lived in Middletown, CT, for 6 years and worked in Hartford for the North Central CT E.M.S. Council.
  9. A great tip from Paul Dunham on the Barracuda Studios Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/848474938507986/permalink/1530849163603890/
  10. If you like to build "planes on sticks," this could come in handy: For more, see here: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10339614
  11. Commencing with the December 1952 issue, Popular Mechanics magazine published a 5-part series of articles detailing the building of a 36-in model (1/330 scale) of this great ship, complete with half-scale plans and cross-sections. The articles comprise one 7.5 MB PDF and the plans/templates comprise a 632 KB file. If you are interested in copies of these, send me a private message or email me at: mcmurtreyjames(at)twc(dot)com
  12. Up until a few years ago, Raytheon made available large-scale engineering drawings of Beechcraft aircraft for model builders. Current owners/management of the company claim no knowledge of them. Here is a list of those available as of August 1996. I have the drawing for the Model 35 Bonanza, but if you have any of the others, I'd very much like to obtain a copy. Aircraft / Model Drawing Number Travel Air 2000 / 441211 Travel Air 6000 / 340928 Model 17 Staggerwing / 340744 Model T-34A Mentor / 113603 Model T-34B / 540834 Model T-34C / 541005 Musketeer Series: Sierra / 540079, Sundowner / 54067
  13. Ray, this is a good tip except you can't find Future floor wax anymore as such. It is now Pledge floor wax with Future shine. Most grocery stores don't carry it any more either so Home Depot is you best shot at finding it. It's not "Pledge with Future Shine" any longer, either. As of 15 March 2017, it's now "Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish" (until they change the name again).
  14. In his review, Pablo Bauleo stated, "They are an enamel-based wash, so it is smelly and it could attack bare plastic, so test it on a scrap piece (a runner or extra part) first." I've been building models for approximately 60 of my 70 years on this planet, and while I cannot attest to the smell of this product as I have not tried it, I've NEVER known an enamel that would "attack bare plastic."
  15. Nick is correct. Sky's original airplane was a Cessna T-50 Bobcat (ex-USAAF UC-78, N67832), followed by Cessna 310B N5348A. I'm 70 and watched the TV show religiously on Saturday mornings. I took "SkyKing" as my forum ID from my interest in the show and the aircraft used. I'm currently working on a book about the T-50. There were some single-engined aircraft featured in the TV show. Sky's nephew Clipper flew a Cessna 140, and in one episode a Beech Bonanza appears with the "Flying Crown" logo of Sky's ranch painted on the side. "Fire up the Songbird, Penny." (Penny was Sky's niece,
  16. You can make your own clear flat by adding Tamiya's Flat Base to Future/Pledge with Future Shine (or whatever they're calling it this week). 1 part flat base to 3 parts Future = very flat 1 part flat base to 10 parts Future = flat 1 part flat base to 15 parts Future = satin See here for more: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
  17. If the primer has a rough sandpaper-like finish, then yes, you should sand it. I'd start with 400 grit and gradually work your way up (600-grit, 800-grit, etc.) until the surface is completely smooth, then finish off with a rubdown with a micro cloth. For best results, when you change grits, sand at right angles to the previous effort.
  18. Normally you can put an enamel on top of another enamel, assuming the same type of enamel is used for both coats. Tamiya's 'acrylics' are technically enamels, but are alcohol based, so if Tamiya's enamels and enamel thinner use a different solvent, it's possible they might damage a coat of Tamiya 'acrylic.' The only way is know is to try it on an old model. Spray a coat of 'acrylic' and allow it to fully dry/cure, then try the enamel stain on top of it.
  19. (Click on thumbnail for a larger image.) I accidentally stumbled upon this in my search for a Monogram kit and thought I'd pass it on. This is not Lone Star Models of Texas that many of us are familiar with, but the Japanese 'cottage industry' of one Yukio Kanezawa. That notwithstanding, it's one of the best examples of resin casting I've seen, without flaws and with panel lines so subtle as to be almost invisible. Although labeled a 'conversion,' it's an almost complete airframe, needing some parts (mainly landing gear, canopy, and cockpit details) from a Hasegawa F-16C or F-16CJ. The int
  20. I wanted to attend, but the venue's move across town to the west side of San Antonio means it's now a 5-hour drive from north Dallas County, too far for me to go down and back in one day at my advanced age :D, and a bit expensive if I go the day before and stay in a hotel the night before. Glad it was a success, however.
  21. SkyKing

    Maroon 18 ?

    See here: http://www.ascalecanadian.com/2015/09/maroon-19-and-usaac-and-usaaf.html ('19' is a typo in the original. The link works.)
  22. I recently purchased some decals from a well-known decal designer who specializes in decals for sci-fi subjects. They are beautifully printed and in perfect register, and I would not hesitate to recommend them to anyone. However, the instructions for these decals contain this claim: "A known fact is that you can apply lacquer over enamel, but not enamel over lacquer." This "known fact" was not known to me. In fact, it contradicts everything I have ever read or learned about lacquers and enamels in over 60 years of building models. The rule has ALWAYS been acrylic (water-based) over enamel ove
  23. Frederic Hultberg, proprietor of Fotocut, and known by his email signature, "oletcherfred," died last September at age 70. In association with the late Harry Woodman, Fred developed sheets of photoetch details for World War I aircraft models in the 1970s, and expanded the line to include photoetch details in other scales for specific models as well as sets of generic photoetch products. http://www.burgessandtedescofuneralhomes.com/book-of-memories/2707681/Hultberg-Fredric/obituary.php
  24. See attachment (Photobucket not working today). There was also a conversion kit for the 2-seater. Both released about 2008 according to Scalemates. Both 1/72. Click on thumbnail to see larger version of box art.
  25. "Chrome" finishes should always be applied over a gloss black base, but should be applied so that they are a bit transparent and NOT completely opaque. It is the transparency and black base coat that gives the chrome finish its chrome look. If you don't believe this, try a test. When your lovely chrome finish suddenly looks like nothing more than high-quality silver paint, you've gone too far.
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