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Everything posted by SkyKing

  1. Up until a few years ago, Raytheon made available large-scale engineering drawings of Beechcraft aircraft for model builders. Current owners/management of the company claim no knowledge of them. Here is a list of those available as of August 1996. I have the drawing for the Model 35 Bonanza, but if you have any of the others, I'd very much like to obtain a copy. Aircraft / Model Drawing Number Travel Air 2000 / 441211 Travel Air 6000 / 340928 Model 17 Staggerwing / 340744 Model T-34A Mentor / 113603 Model T-34B / 540834 Model T-34C / 541005 Musketeer Series: Sierra / 540079, Sundowner / 54067
  2. Ray, this is a good tip except you can't find Future floor wax anymore as such. It is now Pledge floor wax with Future shine. Most grocery stores don't carry it any more either so Home Depot is you best shot at finding it. It's not "Pledge with Future Shine" any longer, either. As of 15 March 2017, it's now "Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish" (until they change the name again).
  3. In his review, Pablo Bauleo stated, "They are an enamel-based wash, so it is smelly and it could attack bare plastic, so test it on a scrap piece (a runner or extra part) first." I've been building models for approximately 60 of my 70 years on this planet, and while I cannot attest to the smell of this product as I have not tried it, I've NEVER known an enamel that would "attack bare plastic."
  4. Nick is correct. Sky's original airplane was a Cessna T-50 Bobcat (ex-USAAF UC-78, N67832), followed by Cessna 310B N5348A. I'm 70 and watched the TV show religiously on Saturday mornings. I took "SkyKing" as my forum ID from my interest in the show and the aircraft used. I'm currently working on a book about the T-50. There were some single-engined aircraft featured in the TV show. Sky's nephew Clipper flew a Cessna 140, and in one episode a Beech Bonanza appears with the "Flying Crown" logo of Sky's ranch painted on the side. "Fire up the Songbird, Penny." (Penny was Sky's niece,
  5. You can make your own clear flat by adding Tamiya's Flat Base to Future/Pledge with Future Shine (or whatever they're calling it this week). 1 part flat base to 3 parts Future = very flat 1 part flat base to 10 parts Future = flat 1 part flat base to 15 parts Future = satin See here for more: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
  6. If the primer has a rough sandpaper-like finish, then yes, you should sand it. I'd start with 400 grit and gradually work your way up (600-grit, 800-grit, etc.) until the surface is completely smooth, then finish off with a rubdown with a micro cloth. For best results, when you change grits, sand at right angles to the previous effort.
  7. Normally you can put an enamel on top of another enamel, assuming the same type of enamel is used for both coats. Tamiya's 'acrylics' are technically enamels, but are alcohol based, so if Tamiya's enamels and enamel thinner use a different solvent, it's possible they might damage a coat of Tamiya 'acrylic.' The only way is know is to try it on an old model. Spray a coat of 'acrylic' and allow it to fully dry/cure, then try the enamel stain on top of it.
  8. (Click on thumbnail for a larger image.) I accidentally stumbled upon this in my search for a Monogram kit and thought I'd pass it on. This is not Lone Star Models of Texas that many of us are familiar with, but the Japanese 'cottage industry' of one Yukio Kanezawa. That notwithstanding, it's one of the best examples of resin casting I've seen, without flaws and with panel lines so subtle as to be almost invisible. Although labeled a 'conversion,' it's an almost complete airframe, needing some parts (mainly landing gear, canopy, and cockpit details) from a Hasegawa F-16C or F-16CJ. The int
  9. I wanted to attend, but the venue's move across town to the west side of San Antonio means it's now a 5-hour drive from north Dallas County, too far for me to go down and back in one day at my advanced age :D, and a bit expensive if I go the day before and stay in a hotel the night before. Glad it was a success, however.
  10. SkyKing

    Maroon 18 ?

    See here: http://www.ascalecanadian.com/2015/09/maroon-19-and-usaac-and-usaaf.html ('19' is a typo in the original. The link works.)
  11. I recently purchased some decals from a well-known decal designer who specializes in decals for sci-fi subjects. They are beautifully printed and in perfect register, and I would not hesitate to recommend them to anyone. However, the instructions for these decals contain this claim: "A known fact is that you can apply lacquer over enamel, but not enamel over lacquer." This "known fact" was not known to me. In fact, it contradicts everything I have ever read or learned about lacquers and enamels in over 60 years of building models. The rule has ALWAYS been acrylic (water-based) over enamel ove
  12. Frederic Hultberg, proprietor of Fotocut, and known by his email signature, "oletcherfred," died last September at age 70. In association with the late Harry Woodman, Fred developed sheets of photoetch details for World War I aircraft models in the 1970s, and expanded the line to include photoetch details in other scales for specific models as well as sets of generic photoetch products. http://www.burgessandtedescofuneralhomes.com/book-of-memories/2707681/Hultberg-Fredric/obituary.php
  13. See attachment (Photobucket not working today). There was also a conversion kit for the 2-seater. Both released about 2008 according to Scalemates. Both 1/72. Click on thumbnail to see larger version of box art.
  14. "Chrome" finishes should always be applied over a gloss black base, but should be applied so that they are a bit transparent and NOT completely opaque. It is the transparency and black base coat that gives the chrome finish its chrome look. If you don't believe this, try a test. When your lovely chrome finish suddenly looks like nothing more than high-quality silver paint, you've gone too far.
  15. Thanks for the confirmation. I have the FM Gerfaut II but am looking for the Griffon II to add to my delta wings collection. The only alternatives seem to be a pricey resin kit or scratchbuilding.
  16. This is said to be FM kit number 7201, but was it ever produced? I recall seeing the 1/48 kit by Fonderie Miniature but not the 1/72 version.
  17. Let's hope it's more accurately shaped than their Banshee. What a kludge that is!
  18. As the person who started this thread, I feel obligated to respond to Nick's comment. My original suggestion was in no way meant to demean the contributions of the volunteer members of the Reviewer Corps or Eric's work as web developer, and I resent your attempting to change the subject of this discussion so as to imply that I or anyone else was accusing them of "lousy service." As to your comment that "the time they spend providing these services is time they cannot spend building models," I would point out that we ALL have limits on our time, and including the scale (something the review
  19. Thanks. Re: Shapeways I've learned you need to order whatever part you want in the best configuration - ultra fine detail (or whatever they are calling it now) to not have the obvious grow lines. It's more $$ but to me it's worth it not to have to spend all that extra time sanding the lines away. I saw a recent tutorial on YouTube where the guy uses acetone vapors to "melt" the lines away from a part grown with abs. But until I try it, or see someone else besides the guy on the vid try it, I wouldn't recommend putting an expensive piece in with the acetone. I have those Shapeways p
  20. I was not aware AMT made a 1/32 Avanti. I am now!
  21. I recommend Tamiya's liquid cements as well. Testors liquid is also good. There's also a liquid cement made by Faller, a German model railroad company. It's sold in a squeeze bottle with a metal tube nozzle. It's thicker than most liquid cements but not as thick as tube glue, and I find it ideal for cementing wings to fuselages and other major joints. You can usually find it at hobby shops that specialize in model railroads. I also endorse Duke Madddog's suggestion to attend his Hobby Day. Forums like this are good, but you can learn far more about model building by joining an IPMS ch
  22. I'd suggest starting by reading the kit instructions and studying them thoroughly, then following them. It should be obvious what should be done first. Use a marker or pen to mark through the part numbers as you install them. That'll help you remember what you've done as well as help you build in a logical sequence. For example, you can't glue the fuselage halves together and glue the canopy on then expect to install the cockpit. It's not rocket science.
  23. So we're slaves to an automated database? Ridiculous. How hard would it be to put the scale field first? And why is it necessary to include "kit" when all aftermarket parts such as Quickboost, Pavla, Aries, etc., are for a KIT! So then the title would be, to use your examples: 1/48 P-51B/C/D Mustang Propeller w/Tool by Quickboost for Tamiya
  24. Would the members of the Reviewer Corps kindly put the SCALE of the kit/aftermarket part/decal in the review title? It is somewhat aggravating to click on a review of something that sounds interesting and then start to read it only to find that the item is not applicable to my preferred scale. This does not sound like too much to ask.
  25. All your Future questions answered here: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
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