Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'marmo'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General Information
    • Welcome to the Forum!
    • About the IPMS/USA National Convention
    • 2018 IPMS/USA National Convention
    • News and Announcements
    • Forum FAQ and Announcements
    • Ask the IPMS/USA
    • Contest Calendar: Upcoming contests/shows of interest
  • Model Building of All Kinds
    • General Modeling
    • Aircraft
    • Armor
    • Cars, Trucks, & Motorcycles
    • Dioramas
    • Group builds
    • Figures
    • Miscellaneous Projects
    • Ships
    • Space, Sci-Fi & Fantasy
    • Tools, Tips & Techniques
    • Coming Attractions
    • Photography
    • I wish there was a kit of...
    • Wanted/For Sale (public)
  • Test Club's Test Space.

Calendars

  • IPMS/USA Calendar
  • Events Calendar
  • Tacoma Green Dragons's Events

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


FirstName


LastName


IPMS Number


Local Chapter


City


State


Location


Interests

Found 49 results

  1. Hi all, Moving right along, here's the next installment. As you know, the horizontal is not horizontal but is instead a very mild V shape. I've rotated the image in order to show you that the inboard verticals form a 90 degree angle to the horizontal. This means that the inboard verticals actually lean in toward the aircraft centerline, as do the tip mounted verticals. The easiest way to get all of the verticals installed correctly is to simply cut a 90 degree piece of scrap styrene and use it as a square. With both inboard verticals installed, you can see how they're supposed to look when properly aligned. In this view from the top, the tail assembly in complete. And for the hawkeyes (pun intended) in the crowd, two of the molded static discharge wires are broken. No matter how careful you are, odds are you're gonna break at least one before you're thru. A little later I'll show you my repair method. With all of the verticals installed and viewed from the back, that is one busy tail section. And it gets even busier when the wings are folded! Incidentally, the slots and tabs for the inboard verticals are keyed but the end ones are not. Since logic says that the verticals should be higher above the horizontals than below it, you'll need to be careful to position these correctly. Also, the slots tend to be a little snug, so you may have to ease them a bit for proper fit. Finally, in my case, I had to shorten the inboard vertical tabs so that they would seat correctly. Regardless of how complex the radome support looks, it's actually a piece of cake, utilizing a mere four pieces. This is the port side. And the starboard side. The rough area you see is dried liquid styrene that squeezed out during installation. It'll be cleaned up in due time. I shot some Dupli-Color Gray Primer over the area that would be covered by the installation of the radome support and then attended to any remaining seam flaws that might exist. After that, a final shot of primer and I was ready to install the support. Installation of the support is a little on the tricky side, but in this case patience is a virtue. As you can see, it does fit the way its supposed to. More than likely the four holes in the fuselage top will have to be 'adjusted' a tad with a #11 blade, but don't get too ambitious at one whack. Adjust and try is the watchword here. Looking down, you can see how everything finally fits the way it should. After all the solvent has dried, the support is sturdy enough to pick up the entire model with it. That's saying something when you consider how much lead this model takes to keep the nose down. One more thing: In case you're wondering about that collar that projects above the top of the support, it's supposed to be there. It's a spacer that allows the radome...both real and model...to rotate without binding on the top of the support. And for us, it has one other very useful benefit. Due to the way this kit is designed, not only will the radome rotate (by hand, of course), but it is also removable as long as you don't glue the shaft in. That's a real advantage when it comes to transporting the model and especially when shipping it to a client in another state.
  2. Installment #7 of the Kinetic E2C 2000 build series has been posted in the Builds Sub-Forum. All comments welcome.
  3. ipmsusa2

    Redesigned Website

    For what it's worth, my Scale Publications website has been completely redesigned for easier use. Check it out and see what you think. Opinions and comments welcome.
  4. Hi all, It's been a while, but here's the sixth installment on the E-2C. Here I needed a little more seam work than just a light touchup. So, as I frequently do in order to protect adjacent detail, I laid down a couple of strips of blue masking tape before sanding the seam. With the seam taken care of and the tape removed, I still needed to finish the seam with 600 grit or so sandpaper. Going that fine wouldn't have any deleterious effect on the surrounding detail. Taking a break from the fuselage, the side windows and overhead hatches were tinted a translucent gold color by mixing a combination of Tamiya X-22 Clear, X-26 Clear Orange and X-24 Clear Yellow acrylic, along with the tiniest dot of X-19 Smoke acrylic. This was strictly an eyeball mix. When I had something that looked right, the windows and hatches interiors were airbrushed while they were still on the sprue. Next up is attaching the outer wings. Believe it or not, they slip right into place with minimal adjustments. Here you can see how the finished installation looks. And yes, the fold joint forms a perfectly smooth connection as it should. I ran into something when installing the horizontal tail that I didn't expect. When you're holding the part in place before applying solvent, the locator pins fit as they should and you can hold the horizontal in the correct position. But, as soon as solvent is applied, the little beast wants to cock to one side. I wound up having to use a rubber band to hold it in place and even then I wound up checking, rechecking and making minute adjustments until the solvent set so that the entire tailplane would be correctly level after final assembly. I have no clue as to why it behaved that way. All I can say is watch it!
  5. Installment #6 of the Kinetic E2C 2000 build series has been posted in the Builds Sub-Forum. All comments welcome.
  6. Hi all, Here's the latest progress on the Kinetic 1/48th E2C 2000. A recess in the bottom of the fuselage gives you the option of replicating the CEC (Cooperative Engagement Capability). This is the route I needed to go and I didn't anticipate any problem. I was wrong. It turned out that when the CEC insert is properly aligned, there's a .020" gap on the port side. Press the insert down for a tight fit and you wind up with a slight step in relationship to the fuselage. The solution is simplicity itself. All you need is a .020" x .030" Evergreen strip to fill the gap. If you're careful, all you'll need is a very light touch with a sanding stick to blend everything together. Now for the fun...installation of the wing center section. While the center section fits as it should, you won't be able to simply drop it in place and add solvent. In this shot, the center has been installed and snugged down with a couple of rubber bands. Here's a closer view of what it took to attain a proper installation. The aft end of the center section has to be pulled down with a rubber band that wraps around the fuselage. Because of this, you want to make sure the CEC is thoroughly dry before doing so. Then another rubber band goes under the fuselage and up over the wing stubs. Seen from the side, you get a better view of exactly the rubber bands were used to pull the center section down. Also, notice the internal detail thru the crew door. There's no interior detail in the fuselage beyond the cockpit other than this insert that allows you to position the door open if you choose. When everything's dry and the rubber bands are removed, you'll discover two problems in the form of seams that have to be filled. One, the largest, is at the aft end of the center section where you had to use the heaviest rubber band. The other's at the front and doesn't go all the way across. Just like the gap on the CEC insert, a strip of .020" x .030" Evergreen strip solves the problem. And the same thing up front. If you're careful, you'll barely need any sanding at all. The port nacelle is next and you will definitely need more rubber bands. Take a close look at this shot and you'll see that the heavier rubber band goes over the seam between the nacelle and the wing, then under the nacelle. In order to have continuity from the wing to the nacelle without a step, this is essential. Then another rubber band loops under the front of the nacelle,over the wing and under the aft part of the nacelle. This pulls the aft part of the nacelle up into position. Everything fits exactly as it should, but it takes this approach to get it there. Just in case you're confused by my previous description, this side view should help clarify things. I repeated the process for the starboard nacelle and finally wound up with what you see here. When everything dried and the rubber bands were removed, I was looking at a perfectly fitted wing center section and a pair of nacelles. Next installment you'll see how well things worked out before we tackle the canopy.
  7. Installment #5 of the Kinetic E2C 2000 build series has been posted in the Buids Sub-Forum. All comments welcome.
  8. Hey all, It's been a while, but the C-46 is done and shipped. So now it's back to the Kinetic 1/48th kit of the Northrop Grumman E2C Hawkeye 2000. Some of you may find it helpful to go back and review the first three installments of this build. As with the C-46, this is a commission build for another client. O.K., y'all up to speed? Then let's see if I can get you a ways farther down the road. Besides the normal canopy, the E2C has three round windows located in the starboard fuselage. Kinetic provides individual inserts that fit perfectly. Due to the extended tab attached to each window, there's no problem with solvent fouling the clear. On the outside, these are some of the easiest windows I've seen to mask. Slap a piece of blue masking tape over each, run your fingernail around the window seam, follow that with a #11 blade and you're done. Whether you opt for extended or folded wings, that large radome guarantees that this little critter is a tail sitter and then some. Since there's enough room, l picked up a package of self-adhesive lead weights from Great Planes....try your radio control airplane shops if you can't find them elsewhere. With the cockpit installed in the starboard fuselage, I packed in close to a full ounce of lead in front of and behind the cockpit. The white arrows show you exactly where. Since each 1/4 ounce piece has VERY sticky tape on the back, you won't have to worry about the weights coming loose. But do be sure you have'em where you want'em before applying pressure because you won't be gettin' them loose. Another 3/4 ounce or so of lead was added to the port fuselage. Not only did this make sure that it wouldn't tail sit, it also tells you why those Scale Aircraft Conversion metal replacement gear are essential. If you haven't had an Oops! event while working on models, you haven't been building very long! Here I got ahead of myself and joined the tail end of the fuselage before adding the tail hook well. Fortunately the solvent hadn't cured too long, so a lot of care and a new #11 blade made splitting the aft fuselage fairly easy. Rather than split the entire fuselage, I wrapped a rubber band around the fuselage about halfway up, then shoved a spring clothespin into the gap to keep the fuselage halves separated,. With the tail hook well properly installed, the fuselage halves were rejoined and a rubber band along with another spring clothespin was used to keep everything snug until the solvent dried. Partly because of its size, the fuselage is not one that can be held together and watch the seams disappear. I had to work my way around a few inches at time, as well as employing the assistance of a number of rubber bands as I went.
  9. Installment #4 of the Kinetic E2C 2000 build series has been posted in the Buids Sub-Forum. All comments welcome.
  10. Back for the 18th and last time...at least where the C-46 is concerned. Hope you enjoy the final details and the beauty shots. C-46 Commandos displayed a dizzying variety of antenna configurations. Essentially, the only way you can be entirely accurate is to have photos of the specific C-46 that you're replicating. Since this model is a representative C-46A, I settled...with my client's agreement...on a single radio wire running from the vertical tail to the fuselage skin over the radio compartment. A #79 (.016") drill bit in a pin vise was used to drill a hole. Then a tiny bit of CA was applied to the end of a length of .0135" monofilament, inserted into the hole and allowed to dry. While I used the line that John provided, any monofilament, EZ Line or invisible thread will also work. It all depends on personal preferences or...in some cases...what's available. When you drill a hole in the vertical, it will be necessary to angle the bit slightly so that it comes out the side of the skin. Then you can run the end of the monofilament thru the hole, pull it taught...carefully...and hang a weight on the loose end to keep the line straight. Depending on circumstances, a clothespin or two will do the job, but if you need more weight, try a metal spring clip from your nearest office supply. When the line is tight, add a small dab of CA using a toothpick or similar and allow to dry. When the CA dries, all that's left to do is nip the surplus monofilament flush with the skin and carefully touchup when necessary with matching paint. And that, folks, puts FINISH to the Williams Bros 1/72 C-46A. Below are a selection of final photos. All that remains is to pack it and ship it.
  11. Hi all, Just a quick note to let you know that the entire C-46A build series is now available as an e-book in your choice of formats. You can find it here. I know this post may not be appropriate here, so I won't be offended if one of the moderators deletes it. Simply wanted to make a quick mention for those who had been following the build. The next few days I'll see about submitting a copy for review along with a flyer in the what's new section.
  12. Installment 18 (and the end of the series) of my 1/72 Williams Bros C-46 build is now available in the Builds Sub-Forum. Comments welcome as always.
  13. We are now at the penultimate installment. With the exception in installing the radio wire and posting beauty shots, this Williams Bros 1/72 C-46A is finished and I'm exhausted!! The nearly finished C-46A with all markings applied. For this particular scheme/time period, the only underside marking is a national insignia on the underside of the starboard wing. Though it's hard to see in this shot, due to being washed out by the camera strobes, the model still has a glossy finish from the markings being sealed with a final coat of Future. With the flat coat on and the window masking stripped, the C-46 is almost ready for the showcase. It's been a long and winding road for a very challenging kit, but the end result is very satisfying. And, as I said in the beginning, it's the only game in town if you're looking to add a 1/72nd scale Commando to your collection. So buy a kit along with the aftermarket parts and have at it. The landing light holes are filled with Gator's Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue. When it dries, a clear landing light lens will be the result. Nearly. After the Gator's Grip dried, I added a top coat of Future (PFM) to function as a final lens. By the way, this is a very close shot that makes the black deice boots look rough and grainy instead of its actual appearance.
  14. Installment 17 of my 1/72 Williams Bros C-46 build is now available in the Builds Sub-Forum. Comments welcome as always.
  15. Hi all. The C-46 finish line is in sight! Here's the latest shots: The completed starboard main gear. I wound up having to apply BSI IC Gel to the mounting edge of the door, then hold it in place with one hand while applying a shot of BSI Accelerator with the other hand. Definitely tricky and I actually had to clean the cured CA on the door and try it again a couple of times before I got it right. To say this approach is tedious is an understatement of the first magnitude! The same technique had to be used on the tailwheel doors, but with the addition of tweezers to hold the doors due to their small size. The same starboard gear installation from a slightly different angle. The photoetch parts add a lot to the gear door detail and the SAC metal gear guarantees the gear won't be collapsing on you. While I did paint the engine cylinders Model Master Steel, no superdetailing was done. With the props in place, most superdetailing would be obscured. These replacement metal props really add a lot to the finished model. Model Master FS37038 Flat Black combined with Model Master Steel and Model Master FS33538 Flat Yellow produced a very nice result. Still have no idea where my client found them. This decal sheet is from the Brett Industries C-46 kit. Produced by Scale-Master, it's a state of the art sheet with markings for four different aircraft. For the subject of this model, all that was needed was the four star and bar national insignia, wing walks and some white tail numbers that my client sent from another sheet. Update from my client: The metal props were produced by a now defunct aftermarket manufacturer in the UK and were specific to the C-46. National insignia and wing walk is seen here on the starboard wing. The Solvaset seen adjacent to the model was used to snug the decals down. By the way, my ebook "How To Make Your Own Decals" covers the subject in extensive detail. You can find a copy of it at Scale Publications.
  16. Installment 16 of my 1/72 Williams Bros C-46 build is now available in the Builds Sub-Forum. Comments welcome as always.
  17. Here's the latest on the C-46: Once the Future has dried, the deice boots were masked off with blue painters tape. Depending on how you like to work, you could mask the boots on the bottom of the wing and then paint'em before... ...tackling the top, leaving the tail surfaces for last. I chose to mask all of the boots at one time and then.... ...spray'em with Model Master FS37038 Flat Black in a single session. By the way, here I'm using a Badger Patriot 105 double action airbrush that I had to buy after losing the needle cap from my Iwata HP-CH airbrush so I could keep working while waiting for a new cap to arrive. With all the tape removed, we have a very nice set of deice boots on the undersurfaces.... ....and on the uppersurfaces. Now to give her some legs to stand on. The tailwheel strut/wheel is a single assembly, so I brush painted the tire first with Pactra M-1 Scale Flat Black or any Scale Black of your choosing. Then the assembly was installed with BSI Super Gold + CA. Don't be surprised if you have to either thin down the mounting shaft or slightly enlarge the mounting hole. The Scale Aircraft Conversions main gear have been completed by the addition of the torque links. When installed, you'll want to make sure that the links point to the rear and the end of the axles to the outside. In this photo, the starboard strut is on the left and the port is on the right. The retraction link in the SAC metal set is where you'll run into trouble. The links are handed, so the mounting recess for the strut connection should be handed as well. Scale Aircraft Conversions has been notified and is checking stock to see how widespread the problem is. If you have one of these problem sets, the solution is easy. Simply drill the mounting recess all the way thru with a .031" (or 1/32") drill bit as I've done in this photo. Note that you only need to do this to two of the links. Here you see the complete SAC starboard main gear properly installed. All it lacks is the wheel/tire and doors And a very tight shot of the same completed assembly. Yet another shot of the same starboard gear from the opposite side. The gear doors laid down on a couple of pieces of tape, just prior to spraying the Model Master FS36270 Neutral Gray. When dry, flip'em over, spray some more Neutral Gray and you're done. All that's left is to install'em. Since you can't stick a toothpick or matchstick thru the axle hole to hold the tire for painting, due to the photoetch outer wheel detail, I used the same approach as the gear doors. Paint was Pactra M-1 Flat Scale Black. Incidentally, that paint hasn't been around for a very long time, but I still happen to have a 35 or 40 year old bottle that's perfectly good. But any Scale Black or Grimy Black paint will produce the same results.
  18. Installment 15 of my 1/72 Williams Bros C-46 build is now available in the Builds Sub-Forum. Comments welcome as always.
  19. The latest installment of the C-46 build series is available in the Build sub-forum. Check it out at your convenience and remember, comments are always welcome.
  20. Hi all. Getting close to the end but had to take a breather due to my wife's surgery and an airbrush blowing out on me. Now for this installment: Williams Bros doesn't give you any of the small antennas and masts, which is probably a good thing. This is primarily because of the immense variety that were employed on the C-46. They do provide some reasonably decent patterns on the instruction sheet and tell you to fabricate them from scrap plastic and wire. What they don't tell you is that one of the 'masts' holds a pitot tube at the bottom and you will need two of them. It also doesn't hurt to have experience scratchbuilding minute details and an OptiVisor will be an absolute necessity. This photo shows the two pitot tubes/masts that I built from .030" x .060" Evergreen strip and .016" music wire. The finished pitots/masts are too thin to drill a hole for a mounting pin, so I cut mounting holes in the fuselage. Check you references closely for proper location and keep your eyeball computer nearby. The best I can offer for location is about .40" aft of the rear canopy edge and .90" below the bottom canopy edge. Each mast angles out so that the two form a wide V when viewed from the front. When properly installed, this is how they should look. Incidentally, they are not leaning back. That's the result of the camera angle. You want to be sure that they are perfectly vertical when viewed from the side and form a V when viewed from the front. Almost finished with the basic paint job. Model Master FS34087 O.D. uppersurface and FS36270 Neutral Gray undersurface. With the basic paint job done, a gloss coat of Future (aka PFM) is sprayed prior to decal application. Before the decals go on, I'll also have to install the gear, as well as paint the deice boots and fine details.
  21. They say it's all in the details, so let's get down to the nitty gritty: Last installment I told you the photoetched tailwheel doors were folded along a center line to provide interior detail. What I didn't include was a photo of a tool that makes the job very easy. That tool? A little item called the "Bug" that is produced from The Small Shop. It takes a lot of the pain out of working with photoetch. One of the obvious features of the C-46 nose is a large opening that leads to the lower fuselage interior. I have no idea what it's true purpose is, but if anyone knows I'd appreciate being enlightened. In any event, there is a recessed structure evident from head on photos. I cut a short length of .190" (3/16") diameter brass tubing and inserted it into the hole, recessing it enough to match the appearance of my reference photo. The RDF housing mounts on the bottom centerline about even with the canopy frame that separates the two bottom side cockpit windows. To make sure it doesn't come loose, I drilled a .016" hole into the housing's mount. Then installed a short piece of .015" music wire. By the way, the best tool for cutting music wire all the way up to .040" is a Hard Wire Cutter made by Xuron. The wire was installed using BSI IC-2000 black rubber toughened CA. A matching .016" hole was drilled in the C-46 centerline and the RDF housing installed with more IC-2000. Four masks from the Eduard mask set actually proved to be useful. The discs that masked the main wheel photoetch details will make painting the tires absolute simplicity. Incidentally, if you're looking at the tires and wondering why I didn't flat them, it's because my client didn't want that feature. Getting ready for painting, the props are given a shot of primer. If you use a Nitrile glove and hold the prop by the shaft, you do a very nice job of masking the shaft without having to use tape.
  22. Installment #13 of my William Bros C-46 build series is now available in the Builds sub-forum. Comments welcome as usual.
  23. Hi all, Here we go again with more C-46 progress and getting close to the end. I'm gonna be glad to be done with it and I'm sure my client will be! Anyhoo, I hope you enjoy this next set of photos. Comments are welcome as always. The True Details vacuform canopy, masked and about ready for installation. I started out intending to use the Eduard mask set as a base, then filling in with blue tape. That proved not to be a good choice, so I switched over to only blue tape. A light touch and a brand new #11 blade is essential to mask a vacuform canopy, but it can be done. And, yes, John, I know one of the windows is too small. That was corrected before installing the canopy. With the canopy installed, the familiar contours of the C-46 become apparent. I still need to finish fairing in the canopy, then go over the entire airframe for a final cleanup before moving it to the paint shop. The photoetch detail that installs on the outside of the wheel will be interfered with by the Scale Aircraft Conversions axle length. All you have to do is use a sprue cutter to nip the axle flush with the wheel, as seen here. On the left is the shortened axle versus the original on the right. The kit struts have a very poor mounting design, basically a butt joint that relies on the other links and yokes to provide the necessary support strength. You'll find the same problem in the SAC metal replacements, which is not their fault. The replacements have to duplicate the kit parts in order to fit the model. However, there is a way to improve things. I used a 1/16" drill bit to create a small depression or dimple in the top of the metal strut, then switched to a 3/64" drill bit to drill a deeper hole. You'll need a Dremel to do the job since the strut's metal makes for very slow progress if you opt for a pin vise. With the hole drilled, I cut a piece of .047" diameter music wire to about 1/2" long. A toothpick was used to place a small amount of BSI IC-2000 CA in the hole and added the wire. It'll take a couple of minutes or thereabouts to set, so keep making an minute adjustments in order to guarantee a vertical alignment. You'll also want to make sure that no CA accumulates above the top of the strut. If it does, remove it before it sets hard. For those who don't know, BSI (Bob Smith Industries) CAs are a private label product. Whoever you buy it from will have their name (hobby shop, hardware store, whatever) on the front, but the label design and product name...IC-2000 in this case...will always be the same. If you want to be sure it's a BSI product, look at the fine print on the back label. I'm finally at a point where I'll be using that second fret of photoetch...or at least most of it. Before adding the wheel photoetch detail, I ran a 1/16" drill bit thru the wheel axle holes and also did a test fit of the metal axles. Satisfied with the results, parts 31 from the second photoetch fret were added to the back of the wheels. On the right is the stock wheel , with the photoetch part installed on the right. Gator's Grip Thin Blend was used here and the operative application word is thin. It doesn't take much Gator's Grip to hold the photoetch and you don't want to use so much that it'll squeeze up thru the perforations. When the photoetch is dry on the back, the wheels were flipped over and parts 27 were added. Installed detail is on the left and stock wheel on the right. You can see in this shot why the metal axles had to be shortened. The stock main gear doors already have some fairly nice detail molded into them, but the addition of parts 23-26 add a lot. Note that these are handed, so pay attention to the photoetch instructions. A kit door is at the photo top with the photoetch enhanced version at the bottom. As with all photoetch detail used for this build, Gator's Grip Thin Blend was relied on for installation. Williams Bros chose not to provide any extra tail wheel doors, instead requiring you to carefully remove the molded-in doors and reuse them. The photoetch fret provides both replacement doors and interior detail in one. At the bottom of this photo is one door as it comes on the fret. When you bend the part along the center line, you get what you see at the top of the photo, a complete door with interior detail. Since the metal props my client provided did not come with shafts of any kind, some had to be created. I had already planned to sleeve the props so they would be removable and the engine inserts had been previously modified for that purpose. So, I used a 1/16" ...or .060" if you prefer...drill bit to enlarge the hole in the back of each prop. Then a 1/2" long piece of .060" brass tubing was inserted using IC-2000 CA. That's it. All that remains is to paint the props and they'll be ready for installation.
  24. ipmsusa2

    C-46 Gear Well Color?

    Hi all, I'm almost to the painting stage for my C-46 build and discovered that I don't know what the gear well color for a WW-II bird is. Worse, I've been unable to find the info anywhere on the internet so far. If anyone knows, I'd appreciate the help.
  25. Installment #12 of my Williams Bros C-46 build series is now available in the Builds Sub-Forum. Comments welcome as always.
×