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About Kartal

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  1. Thank you all for the useful pieces of advice. What do you recommend for the scratches left behind after filing and sanding the putty-applied part of the plastic? As sanding with gradually finer sandpapers seems an endless (and in my instance futile) work, is there any practical and effective way for avoiding these ugly scratches from being disturbingly visible even after painting? The primers just fail to cover them sufficiently, at least in my hands. Can a transparent ladies nail polish do? Thank you
  2. Hi Chris, welcome! Which kind of models are you interested in for the most part?
  3. Dear members, I need advice on putty-application, as it seems that I am causing a lot of mess when dealing with them. It never dries with a smooth surface, and when I try to sand it, peels off during sanding off, even when left to dry overnight. Some brands dry into a very hard material which is very difficult to even out. What is your favorite putty, as there are many of them around with different handling characteristics, and why do you prefer that particular one?
  4. Hi Chris, Welcome to the IPMS/USA Forum.
  5. Thank you all for your replies and advices, which are extremely helpful; especially using a flat white undercoat makes sense. Will a white primer work well as a flat white acrylic undercoat does?
  6. Hi, I have just started a Trumpeter 1/32 A6 Intruder which was sent by a friend as a gift. I usually do WWII aircraft, and I don't have experience with modeling US Navy Jets. Therefore I need a bit of advice, especially using the gloss (insignia) white for painting the lower parts / undersides. My initial experience with gloss white was not pleasant. I used Gunze Aqueous Hobby color H316 with 50/50 mix with the Gunze's own Thinner (Mr. Aqueous Hobby Color thinner) for acrylics. Unlike my WWII flat grays and greens, this gloss paint was messy, needed much more time to get dry, dried wit
  7. Thank you for your Welcome! I am looking forward to my renewed participation in the IPMS and working with all the great folks who are part of it throughout the US and Internationally.


  8. Dear Forum Members, How do you compare Alclad paints to AK xtreme metal and true metal series in all possible aspects? Thank you, Kartal
  9. Dear Members, Can anybody comment on Alclad high speed silver, its properties, possible application examples, etc? I couldn't find this product at the official website, neither among the "regular" finishes, nor in the "high shine" ones.
  10. Thanks for the solutions. Still I am struggling to get rid of it without damaging to the paint work. Here is an example of what gives me trouble I think some solvent in the Alclad was first absorbed by the tape and then this dissolved some tape glue and left its residue on the paint (?) Any comments?
  11. Dear members, I really need a piece of advice here. Recently I am working on a new project -a 1/32 Hasegawa P-47D bubble canopy model. After airbrushing the alclad polished aluminium as the main coat for the airframe, I wanted to accentuate some panels with different tones of metal (different shines of Alclad, such as stainless steel, duraluminium, etc). I masked the panel areas to be painted with a different tone. However, when I remove the masking tape after painting the second coat, I observed the tape's glue remnants over the background paint. It was a good quality modeling masking t
  12. Hello everybody, Dear members of the Forum. I recently returned to my childhood passion, making aircraft scale models after a 40-year interval. Guess I am preparing for my retirement :-). I found the things have changed quite a lot since those days. I used to paint my Matchbox and Airfix models with my father's oil colors and they were really messy. I had to develop bizarre technics for imitating the mottles on the ww2 Luftwaffe aircraft with a paintbrush. Now I have my airbrush and a lot of modeling stuff and gadgets, with tons of questions in mind regarding the technical issues to ask the
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