noelsmith

Looks like my certificates suggestion went down like a lead balloon judging by the responses, so it looks as though the bling appears just as important to many as well as the recognition. I have won quite a few trophies in my time and some look good and others just look cheap. My biggest problem is the space they take up, so medals would certainly save space as they could be tucked away in a drawer of not required next to the model. I would much prefer a medal stamped from metal to a gaudy free standing trophy that is predominately made from plated plastic. Other than what I originally suggested, GSB medals that can be made generic without the year engraved on them so that leftovers could be used the following year would seem the most viable option as suggested in a previous post. Personally, I would stick with First, Second and Third for each class that would make trophies and the competition a lot easier to administer.

If going down the Gold, Silver and Bronze route for a club competition I would take a pragmatic approach and have plenty of generic certificates printed up for each. Paper costs next to nothing whereas trophies could be very expensive to have made for an environment where it will be impossible to ascertain what will be needed for each. GSB however has one pitfall in that all the models will have to be judged against a set number of points that would have to be achieved for each to ascertain what GSB recognition will be awarded. Lots more judging time would have to be put into this, and one has to ask how much time would be taken up with this as club shows are generally one day events. Otherwise going the First, Second and Third route would probably be much easier to administer if awarding actual trophies for the model classes in the competition.

David. If Scale Finishes cannot help, try the Ditzler or Du Pont websites and see if there are any reference numbers for the finish for that particular vehicle that you are looking for. If you can obtain these you might be able to get an aerosol or some touch up paint made up at an automotive accessory outlet. Failing that get in touch with an auto repair shop or restorer who might be able to help you get the specifications for the paint that you want. Plain colours are the same whether on full size or scale models. Problems occur when using metallics as the metallic particles within cannot be scaled down. Sometimes you have to think a bit laterally and outside the normal scale model supplier box when situations like this occur. Looking at the photo of the pick up, the colour looks remarkably like Tropical Turquoise, one of the range of colours that was used on the iconic 57 Chevy. It probably is not, but looks close in the photo.

With regard to model making being an art, the late Gerald Wingrove was of the opinion that it is. For those who don't know of Gerald Wingrove he was a professional master modeller who mainly scratch built model cars for very wealthy private collectors. His models can be viewed on the Wingrove Workshop website. I can guarantee that you will be blown away with what you will see there. Gerald's models are the epitome of Artistry, Craftsmanship and Accuracy. He has written books on scratch building model cars, that I certainly found very inspirational. The Complete Car Modeller. Volumes 1 and 2.

Dak was quite right that scratch building does not guarantee accuracy and the mistakes would be that of the model maker alone. It would come down both to the craftsmanship of the modeller in making each individual part absolutely correctly and if they have 100 percent guaranteed accurate references to work to. In many respects Dak has made some very relevant comments on the subject of accuracy or craftsmanship. References alone can be a minefield when researching a model with often conflicting views in books and on plans etc. Artistic licence is used a lot on many models that I have seen, particularly on many aircraft models where there is absolutely beautiful panel highlighting with subtle shading done. However when you look at the real thing none of that is very apparent at all. But on the other hand a model looks a bit dead without it but would be technically a more accurate rendition of the subject. The whole thing starts to become a bit subjective, and comes down to what is the more pleasing on the eye when viewed in model form. Personally, I like the artistic approach to see the subtle paintwork on models that demonstrates the skills of the modeller, whereas others may disagree. It all comes down to personal preference at the end of the day.

The only way to guarantee absolute accuracy is to scratch build a model so that you have control over every piece that goes into it. It goes without saying that there is a need for a very high level of craftsmanship in order to achieve that aim. However, many do not have either the time of inclination to go that route and concentrate on building, converting and detailing kits to the best of their ability.I Competitive modelling by its very nature will develop a hotbed of differing opinions, and that is fine until it starts to become an obsession. Personally, I enjoy placing my models on the competition table, and accept that you win some and lose some. I don't lose any sleep over a judge's opinion about my models, because that is all it is at the end of the day. Just someone else's opinion!

Like I said before trying to be pragmatic......Keep a mask in your back pocket, just in case!

Byrne's Model Machines.......I presume that they are a USA based company? Not clear if Tom is looking for a miniature circular saw, bandsaw or vibratory fretsaw? Not heard of Byrne's Model Machines in the UK. Proxxon, a German company makes a good range of table top machines and hand tools for model makers. They appear to carry the largest selection this side of the pond. They may have a US distributor.I Sherline Machines have a UK outlet. Also the Twig machines are marketed under the Peatol brand name in the UK. I realise this is an o!d thread that I am responding to but hope that my info helps.

I think this thread has now run its course with the lengthy debate posts. It made interesting reading it nothing else. At least it managed to remain civil despite very differing opinions being aired. However, regardless of any opinions, personal or otherwise, the bottom line is IPMS has to conform with National, Local and Venue requirements with regard to mask wearing.I It will be interesting what restrictions if any will be in place if IPMS UK Scale Modelworld Telford runs in November. We will just have to wait and see!

Hi Pete, Carlos, Mark and Michael, have pretty much submitted the reply that I would have given so there is nothing I can really add to the sound advice that they have offered you. I wish you well with using Humbrol and am sure that you will not be disappointed with their products.

Pete, Humbrol has a long pedigree and has been around since the 1960's. I have used it many, many times and found it to be an excellent product. I would suggest you obtain their dedicated thinner as it is formulated for their enamels if you are looking to airbrush as well. For normal brush cleanup, white spirit will work ok and is relatively inexpensive. Humbrol has been a stalwart product for UK modellers down the years. In the US of course you are more used to Testors, Floquil and Pactra having been the main brands in the past.

I can remember when these were sold in Woolworths in the UK for two shillings say back when! When Airfix first started making and marketing their kits I believe that they had a contract with Woolies that the kits were first sold there for a certain time period before other outlets could stock them.

David and Peter's advice is based on proven photography techniques using phones with built in cameras and more traditional photographic equipment. What caught my eye recently whilst looking at the Panasonic Lumia range of compact cameras was one that had a focus stacking feature built in. This may be able to alleviate the bain of most modellers trying to keep pictures sharp from back to front, so I will certainly be looking at the potential of this one. It will save lugging a big bag of camera gear around.

Wow! Just think, of all that model making time that has been used up on the lengthy posts in this thread? Regarding, responses (or lack of), it must be remembered that IPMS world wide is run by volunteers who give up a substantial amount of their time to keep the society running. So to get this in context, they have to fit this in with infinitely more important facets of life like work and family commitments.

Sometimes I feel that there is an expectancy for judges to know everything and have encyclopaedic knowledge. They are only human after all and cannot possibly know everything, and they just do their very best on the day. Accuracy or Craftsmanship? I would guess that models have to get judged on both counts on the day. A model could be accurate, but if poorly built would be out of contention anyway.