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ghodges

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. Thanks for the tip Bob! Don hit the nail on the head; as I want to copy the message before it gets lost in cyberspace (when it doesn't want to post). I'll try the cntrl+C next time. Cheers! GIL
  2. To add a question also in the "response" category...why is there no ability to "copy" what you've written after you hit "select all"? It's not even an option in that pop-up window, nor anywhere (that I can find) in the icons above. I'll write a response and on occasion it will not want to post. You can see that it's going to take too long and go to the "window not found" error message; and that's when I'd like to quickly copy the response and print it in my "word" file, so I can then re-copy it back to a new response box and not have to try to retype the entire message (only to have the same thing happen again). Is adding a "copy" option a viable alternative? Thanks! GIL
  3. That cockpit detailing is phenomenal! It looks like it's bigger than 1/72, which makes it all the more amazing. Keep us posted as this will be an educational and impressive build. I look forward to more pics! GIL
  4. They're even more impressive in their "natural" setting. Looks like you'll get the better of the ship model in the end! GIL
  5. Take the following advice with a grain of salt, as I have very little experience with the "filters" you're asking about. I think you can use either solvent, making the choice on how tolerant your skin and nose are to them. The key is to use them VERY sparingly AND to be sure you have a base coat (preferably acrylic) to protect the base colors. Since the dots are oil paint and dry very slowly, you have a lot of time to streak them and then remove more and more paint to tone down the streaking. Using a very small amount of the solvent allows you to control the paint removal without applying "wet" solvent that may soak into the base coats. Make sense? Hopefully someone with more experience will be along shortly to give some more experienced advice. Best of luck! GIL
  6. James and all: I've had some problems with the black Sharpies....I like to make the black stripes on a white tailhook with a finepoint Sharpie; much easier than painting. However, you have to let it dry for a day and thenl ightly flat coat it, or the ink will run. You have to be more careful with gloss coats since you generally apply them "wet", and that'll cause the blank ink to run. I think that's the main reason you've never seen people do preshading with a Sharpie....it's the easiest method, but it either runs or bleeds therough the next coast of paint! GIL
  7. Very nice! Are they 1/350, 1/700, aor somewhere inbetween? If so, are you going to put them on any ship in particular? Cheers! GIL
  8. ghodges

    Su-15 1/48

    Wow! That thing has a nose like a "shaped" charge! I like the wiring in the wells; nice touch! Keep us posted! GIL
  9. Thanks for the explainations. Where did you get the .004 stainless steel wire from, and what do you cut it with? Sounds like a great item to have on hand! GIL
  10. That's a pretty Albatross! I've heard great things about those Eduard biplanes, but have yet to tackle one. Is that the kit lozenge decals, or did you use aftermarket decals? Your rigging looks good too. What method/material did you use? Thanks for posting! GIL
  11. Naaaahh.....it's just still digesting that Zero that it swallowed whole! Looks great to me and it sounds like you had fun! What more could ya ask for? Thanks for posting! GIL
  12. Now THAT'S IPMS service with a smile! I learn something new and Tim get's pointed to where he can buy what he needs! Thanks! GIL
  13. I have couple of ideas, that may or may not solve your problem. I just had a similar problem on my 1/48 Skynight. The vac canopy was masked with Tamiya tape for quite a time, due to the amount of filling and sanding needed to finish and also due to procrastination on my part, adding to the length of time to get the painting finished. By the time I pulled off the canopy masks, they'd been on there at least 5-6 weeks, and had endured at least 2 primer coats and a coat of interior green followed by another coat of gloss dark sea blue. I found the clear parts to be cloudy, which I too thought was tape adhesive, except it wasn't sticky. I think it was one of two things. The first possibility is that the multiple coats of paint (and I use enamels and lacquers) allowed for the seepage of some of the solvent through the tape and onto the Future coat on the canopy. The second was that the Tamiya tape DID leave a residue on the surface, but that its residue just isn't tacky like most tape residue is. I've had this problem on a couple of rare occasions, and I need to add that not only may time be a contributing factor, but also temperature. I model in the garage here in Florida, and during that build the temps in the garage averaged at leat 85deg each day, and perhaps that affected the Tamiya tape. I was afraid to try to use any kind of solvent on the vac canopy as I considered to too thin to sand and polish. I also didn't want to try to disolve the Future on the canopy. While this would more than likely solve the problem, it would require more masking and painting on an already decaled and painted model. My salvation was a chisel pointed WOODEN toothpick and the Future itself. The wooden toothpick was soft enough to scrape without scratching, and yet stiff enough (with the chisel edge) to chisel, scrape, and flake the cloudy areas until all of the clear parts were once again clear! I did have some of the canopy frame paint flake of too, but that was simple to touch up with a fine pointed brush. This is what I would suggest you try before attempting to strip the entire canopy. It's tedious, but should work. Take your time and apply enough pressure to flake off the Future, but avoid turning the toothpick so that its sharpest edges may scratch the plastic. When the chisel edge wears down, carve a new one. Best of luck! Gil
  14. Since I have no pride (it was destroyed in contests decades ago! :D ), I'll confess I have NO idea what the "sniper pod" looks like! Could you (or someone) post a pic of it? One of the great things about this hobby is the chance to learn about such things. Besides, I may need to know about it for a 1/48 model some day, and the pic could lead to suggestions on how to make one if it's not commercially available. Thanks! GIL
  15. Congrats to those guys! It's nice to have their talents recognized on BOTH sides of the pond! Telford looked very impressive, even if it was only because of the 463 F-4 Phantoms on the tables! I'd LOVE to have that knd of turnout in Columbus. Hmmm.....think I'll sponsor some tables with the theme: "More Phantoms than Telford!" GIL
  16. Nope, it's correct! You can find WATER SOLUBLE "oil" colors along with the rest of the tube type oils in the art departments at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, and most any other well-stocked arts/crafts store. Be sure to mix a drop or two of liquid dish detergent into water/pigment mix. I've found that these types of washes come closest to having the same flow and color capacities as the reguar oil paint washes, without the odor and risk of using a solvent based wash. You can even do some nice special efects by applying them to flat paint surfaces, which will cause the color to spread out a bit instead of hugging the crevices, making for a nice stained effect. The other advantage is you can buy about 3-4 tubes (black/grey/burnt sienna/tan) and have just about any color wash you'll ever need, as well as having the ability to mix them easily and create any in-between shades. And, each tube should last your for years since you use just a dab of pigment at a time. I mix the wash in left over soda bottle caps, mix it up with a toothpick, and then apply with a fine pointed brush. Another advantage to the "ws oils" is (like their oily bretheren) you can set the cap aside for a couple of days, add a bit more water to it, reconstitute it, and apply it some more! I toss it when the model is completely done, no clean up, no fuss! Cheers! GIL
  17. ghodges

    Rigging

    The "flat thread" sounds interesting, but how do you get it taut, and what do you glue it in with? Thanks! GIL
  18. That's a great demo! As RC, I forwarded it on to my clubs. I hope this is the wave of the future, as there are plenty more techniches I'd like to see! GIL
  19. Although I can't lay my hands on the exact announcement, it WILL be going back into business soon. The owner was very ill for a long whlie. He announced (within the last couple of months) that he's recovered and almost ready to resume business. I got the impression (IMO) that he planned on using this fall to replenish his stock and resume business early next year. In short, stand by for further announcements..... Cheers! GIL
  20. ghodges

    Su-15 1/48

    http://www.lindenhillimports.com/begemot.htm The above link will take you to the Begemot page with prices on their SU-15 1/48 decals. Hope this helps! GIL
  21. Good looking model Dick! Czech Model kits are not shake and bakes either! How did it compare to other a/c kits you've built? Thanks for posting! GIL
  22. Special Hobby (or some other short run Eastern Eur. co.) has had a 1/48 Hawkeye on their "to-do" list for almost 3yrs now. No one has seen a test shot so it might just be them stirring the pot to see what kind of a reaction they get to help them make up their minds. I have the Collectaire kit and it looks great! Still, if someone does a plastic 1/48 E-2 kit, then I can do one with the wings folded and one without, and hopeully the newer kit will have those new 6 bladed scimitar props! Chers! GIL
  23. I'll try to get around to that later this week. By the by, what ever happened to my B-24 walkaround pics? They were on the walkaround forum for a while, but now they're gone. Also, I heard a loud "round motor" sound about 1pm this afternoon while out on my route. I turned around to see it was the BT-13 heading home. Even at a distance of at least 5 miles that aluminum finish with the red nose and rudder made it easy to identify! Cheers! GIL
  24. ghodges

    1/32 Revell Ju88a

    I'd forgotten that option! I actually had a wall FULL of models (30-40) 30yrs ago in the 1rst 2 apartments my first wife and I had. It worked fine, except for the time she came home mad and slammed the door! My 1/48 Tamiya A-10 took a nose dive and crashed and burned......Then there were all of the holes to be dealt with when we moved.....but Colgate toothpaste did a good enough job to get my deposit back! Thanks for the memory jog! GIL
  25. And to finish.... As I said, it was a fun afternoon! Cheers! GIL
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