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ghodges

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. Neat idea! That Corsair is just a little different markings-wise from any other reserve bird I've seen. I look forward to the pics of the finished model! GIL
  2. I found the shape of the fin to be at the end of the airplane.... .... Sorry! Too easy to pass up! Actually, this was mentioned by the "Brit" in our club! He says that although the kit rudder/fin has that rep, and it clearly doesn't match the pofile of other kits (like Tamiya's); that it supposedly is VERY close to the factory blueprints! My problems with the kit were as follows: the WORST wing/fuselage joints in recent memory; and the engineering of the gear/tires. The wing root gaps were easily 1/16in on BOTH sides! However, the fix was actually easy. Mix up your favorite epoxy putty (Milliput, Apoxy Sculp, SIG, etc.), ladle it in, and then wipe off the excess with a finger dipped in alchohol. ALmost no sanding needed after that! The main gear fit tightly and leave little to no room to adjust their angles to match properly. But, worse than that, there is no "axle" to attach the tire to; just the inner surface of the inner wheel as molded on the end of the gear leg. That means you can't test fit the tires. THAT means you have little to no chance to tweak their angles to match and no way to gauge the spot and/or angle at which to sand a flat spot on the tire bottoms to simulate weight. The interior detail is "average", but acceptable; especially with a closed canopy. The kit has tons of extra parts (spinners, props, radiators, cannon breech bulges, exhaust stacks, wheels, etc.), and you can build a MKII from the kit. It also includes the canopies from their later MK releases (including a bubble canopy). The down side is that though the decals lay down very well, the yellow is dot-matrix printed. It only shows under magnification, but you'd want something better for a competition model. I guess my expectations were for a simpler and easier build. I built the older Revel 1/48 MKII Spitfire and it was a very pleasant experience. This did not meet that same expectation. Cheers! GIL
  3. Built this one for the Airfix group build over on Hyperscale. Not a great kit. Buildable, but not a great kit. If you want to build one, especially for competition, get the Tamiya MkI. Other than that, it was good to get one of the "stash" done. Only 249 more to go....... Comments and critiques more than welcome! Cheers! GIL
  4. That's one of the reasons I really like 50's jets; bright colors and markings on silver airplanes! GIL
  5. There's an EXCELLENT article on the military Gammas (up to the A-17 attack a/c) in the summer 2007 Aerospace Modeler Magazine. I'm not sure what the differences are bewteen the Alpha and Gamma models, except that the Alpha is obviously an earlier variant...Cheers! GIL
  6. You may have failed int your deadline, but that was a self imposed fantasy finish line! It sounds like you've managed to immerse yourself in a world of building for the last 2 days; probably more so than in the least few years. I know that's what happened to me. If you overcome the setbacks and finish the model it can never be a true failure. It's just another build that you can use to take lessons from and apply to the next. As for me, I'm impressed! As Dick said, That's NOT a candidate for a "fast" build. The fact you came as close as you did is astounding! Please post the finished pics when you do get it done and thanks for the ride! GIL
  7. I think it may currently be ot of production. Your best bet is to check out the nearest model show/vendors area, and to post a "wanted" ad on the Wants and Disposals topic. I'm hanging on to the one that I have! Best of luck! GIL
  8. Good job Mark! Man, I pitty the plane that the F-100 gets on the tail of.... GIL
  9. Lozenge camo is so cool....a PAIN to apply; but SO cool! Looking forward to the finished pics! GIL
  10. "I have a couple of technical questions,having never built an early model prop. What are the fs no's of the blue's and how do you duplicate the waves in the aluminum surface's." There are no FS#'s for WWII colors. Instead, they were ANA colors, but you don't really need to worry about that! There are plenty of available WWII colors from almost every major model paint maker, so simply start looking in the area you usually buy your more modern colors. USN WWII (mid-war years) used the "tri-color scheme". It was (basically) Dark Sea Blue over Intermediate Blue over Flat White. According to Thomas Doll's "US Navy Aircraft, Camouflage and Markings 1940-1945" the FS equivilants (today) are: FS25042 (semi-gloss Sea Blue); FS35164 (non-specular Intermidiate Blue); and FS37875 (NS Insignia White). Surfaces that could be seen from above were painted the dark blue, surfaces normally seen from the bottom were painted white, and surfaces viewed from the side were painted the intermediate blue to sort of "blend" the other two together. Note that a lot (but not all) Corsairs had the UNDERSIDES of the OUTER WING PANELS painted in intermediate blue. This was so there would be no stark white color showing when the wings were in the folded position. As to the "waving" in the aluminum skin, it's called "oil canning". It's the result of slight indentations in the metal panels where the panel is riveted to the underlying support structure. You CAN argue that this is NOT necessary to do in scales such as 1/48 and 1/72, as it is next to unnoticable in those smaller scales. You might think it COULD be seen in 1/32 and 1/24, but still isn't really needed. If you do decide you want to replicate it you have a VERY tough job in front of you! Essentially, you'll need to get a curved Exacto blade and CARVE a troph between every line of rivets! Then you'll have to sand out all of the associated scratches, rescribe the lost panel lines, add the rivets back, and then sand it all again to tone down and blend the overall effect. When done properly (i.e.-to scale) it can result in a stunning model! In my mind it's a lot of work that most people do not miss if it's not there. Hope this helps! And by the way, I think "crisp" is a very good description of some models. Crisp things have a "snap" to them! Some models are definitely snappy! So, a model that is not crisp basically lacks snap! GIL
  11. Looks like a complicated kit for such a "fast" build; but then you seem to have thought it out thoroughy. I look forward to seeing the finished pics tomorrow evening! GIL
  12. ghodges

    Vigilante Hornet

    Very sharp Bug! The markings are very pretty, even if they "stole" the colors from the Jolly Rogers! Great build, thanks for sharing! GIL
  13. There should be no need to gloss coat the Alclad. ALmost any nmf is smooth enough to decal directly over, and Alclad seems to do better than others when it comes to showing less carrier film. Cheers! GIL
  14. You can almost sense from those pics how much more romantic "flight" was back then. Those are some great shots, thanks for sharing! GIL
  15. ghodges

    On-line Group Build

    Dick! Email in bound! SB
  16. Most of the really heavily weathered wood I've seen (like driftwood) is actually grayish looking. I think you could go that route, with washes of dark gray and black, and highlighting with light gray or white and get an old, weathered statue or shrine. Anyway, just a thought....best of luck! GIL
  17. Suggestions: If you use enamels, then I recommend Model Master Gloss White, thinned with lacquer thinner. Thin it to the consistency of milk. It's a bright white, goes on well, and dries overnight. If you want a flat white, get the Tamiya rattle can of Fine White Primer. It goes on as smooth as baby powder and dries hard in 30mins or less! Best of luck! Either of those whites should cover well over the silver/gray plastic of your kits. If you're going to paint some other darker colors and then apply the white, spray on a coat of Floquil old silver (or any other silver) first and the white will cover that more easily. Cheers! GIL
  18. One word of advice.....although Future doesn't yellow it does get old! I advise getting a new bottle once a year, even if you have a half a bottle left. I've noticed that "old" Future doesn't tend to shine as well, even when dipping a canopy in it 3 times (for example). Besides, the stuff is so cheap, it's not like your costing yourself a bunch of money just to be on the safe side. Cheers! GIL
  19. ghodges

    P-51d Finished...

    SWEET 'Stang! Your NMF looks perfectly fine to me, so I can't imagine what trouble you had that you mention. Looks very crisp and sharp! Thanks for posting! GIL
  20. Lovely F-4! There's something about those British Phantoms with the jacked up nose gear that makes their F-4s look even more rakish than the rest! Thanks for posting! GIL
  21. And here's the pics of the finished model. By the way, I have painted the front turn signals since theses pics were taken! It's no contest beauty, but it was GREAT fun to get a model done so quickly, and it was a bit of nostalgia for me, since I built these kits over 30yrs ago! Cheers! GIL
  22. I started this one at 11:30am on 1/14. I worked on it about 8hrs that day. In preparation I had already studied the instructions (to find shortcuts) and also had bought some fast drying spray paint at Walmart (Rustolem, etc.). As the day progressed, I test sprayed the gold color, let it dry, and also tested the clear coat over it. They both dried "hard" within about 2hrs; with no "crackling". The most time consuming part of the build was painting the figure head. I also opted to repaint most of the chrome parts by painting them with gloss black and then coating them with Alclad Chrome; which is a much more realistic chrome finish than the kit plating. BY the time I quit that evening I had the body painted and glossed, as well as 90% of the sub-assemblies done. It took about 3 hours of work the next afternoon when I got home from work to finish things up. Hope you enjoy! I did! GIL
  23. It sounds like you got some "white" water spotting in the Future while applying the decals; is that correct? Future will do this on occassion. The remedy is to apply another coat of Future and the white blushing usually goes away. The bad news here is that it sounds like you already applied another top coat over that, and that may prevent you from getting to the blushing in the Future. However, if you think the spotting is in the top coat (the acrylic semi-flat), you might try another coat of that to see if it makes them go away. That's my best guess, without seeing pics of your problem. Good Luck! GIL
  24. ghodges

    Airfix Harrier Gr5

    Very nice Harrier! Whenever I see a model of that plane I'm reminded of watching it hover at an airshow, and of how it's the LOUDEST airplane in the world! I agree with you in that Airfix kits can be a lot of fun. I'm mid-way through their 1/48 MkI Spitfire. Thanks for posting! GIL
  25. Top notch looking work! I like the D-VI because it seems to combine the superb lines of both the DR.I and the D-VII. I built the Tom's Modelworks 1/48 vacuform kit a few years ago because I didn't want to have to "trash" either the rare old Aurora kits or the expensive Dragon kits! The recent explosion of WWI kits from Eduard and Roden are a great way to fill your needs! Have you decided what markings you're going to put on this bird? Keep us in the loop! Cheers! GIL
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