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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. Yep! Tailhook was taken off most land based Corsairs. The one thing I didn't like about this kit is that they only give you the later tall tail wheel. I'd have used the earlier shorter one if I could. It sits much more "leveL' than my other Corsairs, and I even looked to be sure I seated the thing all the way down in the model properly! GIL
  2. The 2 long term projects mentioned above are an old 1/48 Aurora Halberstadt CLII, that I'm making halting progress on. It's about 3/4 assembled and a month out from completion. The other one is the CollectAire 1/32 resin T-28 Trojan. I managed to boil some dehedral into the main wing, which is half the battle in tackling this beast! That means I can actually start working on this one now, with a projected finish date of May15th; just in time for the R-11 Regional in Orlando! That is (of course) if the good Lord allows, the creek don't rise.......thanks for all of the kind words guys! GIL
  3. Ron, give yourself over to the dark side of enamels and lacquers......I can't believe you're still trying to use acrylics. I heard this same rant back in the 80's! You'd think you'd have learned to inhale with the rest of us and join us with our dopey fume-induced lopsided grinning and drooling.......come on, Mary will still love ya! Just remember, my nose hairs may end up tinted with the color I'm airbrushing, but my paint never peels up when masking! GIL
  4. Just finished this one today. It's the 1/48 Tamiya F4U-1A Corsair, which I built just to get something done while still hacking away at a couple of other long term projects on the bench. It's primarily OOTB, with a little added just for fun. I used an old set of Waldron belt buckels, stringing them onto a set of tape belts. Tedious! There's a reason pe belts/buckles are so popular! I also wired the engine (for the first time in a long time); which came out well, but didn't add as much in the way of enhancement as I'd hoped. Guess it'll be a while before I do it in 1/48 again..... Paints used were Floquil Reefer White on the bottom, Model Master Intermediate Blue and MM Dark Sea Blue, with a LOT of post-shading to get the panel variations. I also did some VERY light wet sanding on the final finish before glossing and decaling. Kit decals were used and they went down very well. The prop markings are dry transfers by Archer. Sure wish he'd do more aircraft stuff!! I added a lot of chipping using a sharpened silver colored pencil. Substituted a white metal Brewster bomb rack from the spares for the kit item (less clunky). Added retraction springs and brake lines to the gear legs. Used MV lights (set LS502) for the IFF lights and added a punched piece of foil under the kit landing light lens. I also canted the tail wheel for that more "candid" look. Exhaust staining was done with pastel powders. All in all it was a typical shake-n-bake model with easy assembly, allowing me to concentrate on the weathered SW Pacific finish. As always, question, comments, and critiques are welcome! Cheers! GIL
  5. That's visually quite interesting and you're not even quite done yet! Neat mixture of blue and gray components. Is this due to maintenence getting the most out of the spare parts, or is it just the scheme they chose? GIL
  6. That's a great looking silver Marko, what did you use? GIL
  7. Lovely build and a very eye-catching scheme! How did you do the silver stripe around the cowl? Thanks! GIL
  8. Oh my....that is GORGEOUS! Lovely NMF and yet it also has a "used" look to it. What paint and techniques (washes/weathering) did you use? Looks like you nailed it! GIL
  9. Nice Zeke! The A6M-3 Hamp is my favorite variant. Thanks for sharing! GIL
  10. I believe that old kit may have raised panel lines. If so (or for anything with raised lines), you can rescribe lost RAISED lines "quick and dirty" with a #11 knife blade. It actually pushes up a small ridge while cutting a groove and looks a lot like a raised panel line under a coat of paint. If you want indented lines, there are lots of tools to choose from. The UMM tool is VERY good, if a little odd looking. Its 2 big advantages are that you can make lines while pushing as well as pulling, and it seems to retain it's edge MUCH better than any other scribing tool. Always scribe as many lines as you can BEFORE assembly. It allows you to manipulate the parts easier. Panel lines across seams you'll still have to do after assembly. Dymo label maker tape is a GREAT guide for scribing around round areas (like fuselages). Hope this helps a bit! GIL
  11. Before you go to the trouble of lacing wire wheels, you could look for PE wire wheel sets. Model Technologies made some, and so did Reheat on their generic WWI set. There was even someone (Meikraft?) who made injection molded "split" WWI tires to be used with the PE wire wheel sets. All you had to do was glue them together and then fill the gap on the circumference of the tire. You might try Copper State Models too. They're know for their WWI stuff. Hope this helps! GIL
  12. ghodges

    Hasegawa Val

    Looks great! Your canopy framework looks pretty sharp. What method did you use for masking...tape it yourself, a set of adhesive masks? Thanks for sharing! GIL
  13. ghodges

    Cowl Flaps

    Which Corsair kit and what scale are you building? In this case, size may very well matter! GIL
  14. Excellent! Thanks for the tutorial! GIL
  15. Impressive! They aso show the big advantage auto builders have over other builders....you can really cram a case full! Thanks for posting! GIL
  16. SWEET Zero! Those are also some very interesting markings that aren't seen very often. Thanks for sharing and congrats on a beautiful build! GIL
  17. Try again Marko! I'd realy like to see your model. Thanks! GIL
  18. The black box w/white text is the pilot/crew chief info and goes immediately below the windscreen on the left side. It is visible on the profle. What's IS going to disappear is that black text data block (on a OD plane), which goes in the same general vicinity. Though it's not shown on the profiles, he best guess for the black "T" is that it goes on the bottom of the cowl lip, so that you can read it standing in front of the a/c (and tell that it's a/c "T" w/o seeing the side codes). This was a regular practice, even if not standardized in every unit. Hope this helps! GIL
  19. Check out the Hyperscale.com "plane trading" forum. There's a guy there posting regularly for the last week or so with headlights. These could be used for cars or armor (or whatever). He has several different sizes and styles, including those with that distintive cross-hatched glass that's so indicative of headlight lenses. Be prepared to pay though, they're not cheap, especially after adding in the postage! But if ya gotta have realistic headlights......Best of luck! GIL
  20. After a bit more research, it seems no one in the US carries the Falcon line. According to their website, you can order their stuff from Hannants or Aeroclub in the UK. Short of that, you'll have to trust to luck with a vendor. GIL
  21. Falcon vacuforms makes a "triple conversion" set in 1/72 that has the FJ-3 Fury fuselage; as well as a C-2 Greyhound and an AD-5W conversion. Falcon vacs are pretty good, and generally fit well. If you can't find someone who carries the Falcon line of conversions, try ordering directly from them in New Zealand! Hope this helps. Gil
  22. Can't see a crimp in any of them anymore. What are you using for your hose connectors? GIL
  23. ghodges

    New Member

    Absolutley lovely work Maffe! Glad to have you aboard and I look forward to seeing more of your work! Keep 'em coming when ya can! GIL
  24. ghodges

    Sea King Aew

    Good job! It's nice to know that there's a technique you can fall back on when there''s no "aftermarket" available for your purpose! I always get a kick out of old school builds! Thanks for sharing! GIL
  25. There's NO way there have been more of those than red/white striped bottom Dora-D-9's built! In fact, was there any other scheme ever on the Doras? SB
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