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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. ghodges


    I have some EZline. I tried to use it once without much success. Simply put, trying to put an end into the locating hole for a section of rigging was like trying to shoot pool with a limp piece of spaghetti (to paraphrase George Burns). It may have been ME, but I couldn't get it to work for rigging. I've also HEARD it doesn't react well to superglue. Since you have to stretch it into place and immediately bond it while tensioned, no other glue is really practical. Again, since I couldn't even get it into the locating hole, I don't personally know if the superglue will work or not. That said, I just started a Halberstadt CL.II and I do plan to try it again. I've had the best success rigging with sprue, and some success with very thin monofiliment line; but it's REALLY frustrating when you heat it to tighten it and it breaks in two! The elasticity of the EZLine would solve that problem! Also, I have heard of some modelers that have used it and are very happy with it! Contact Bobe's and give it a try; you'll only be out a few dollars if it doesn't work. Best of luck! GIL
  2. Those are great too, but I'm gonna go with the markings I already have in hand. GIL
  3. Yep, that's the one! I plan on doing a/c#354 of the 354thTFW, which is pictured on the back of the OLD A-7 in Action book. Those markings happen to be on the Hasagawa sheet! Cheers! GIL
  4. I've got 3 days of due to the way the Cloumbus Day holiday and my day off fell, so I thought I'd start another model. I opted for the 1/48 Hasagawa A-7D. I found a BB cockpit in it when I opened the box so I decided to put it in. It fit with minimal trimming. Here are some pics of it sitting in place. The seat, stick, coaming and main panel are only "posed" in the 'pit for now. I've managed to assemble the entire wing and the fuselage in 2 days. The fit is very good overall (excepting the intake/lip area) so the sanding should be kept to a minimum. That's the main task for tomorrow, hopefully ending in the joining of the wings to the fuselage. If I don't like the way the intake sands out, I've got a Koster vac intake cover waiting in the wings! I'm going to do a 'Nam A-7D, and hang a good number of Mk82's under it! I have hopes to 'get er done by the end of the month. Cheers! GIL
  5. Tips like your solution to improving the engine pod fits, correcting the instructions, and how to bend the wings are why this forum is great! Thanks for posting and keep 'em coming! GIL
  6. Got this one done yesterday. I usually have one "long term" project (like the Skynight) and one "easy" one going at the same time. I bought this at the VB Nats and started it about a month ago. It's the Classic Airframes 1/48 TA-4J kit in the "trainer" edition. There's a good write up on this on the IPMSUSA site, and some other reviews on the various forums. If you've built the various 1/48 Skyhawks, this one falls right in the middle build-wise. It's not as detailed or as fine fitting as the Hasagawa A-4's, but it is a step above the older Monogram kit in detail, and on a par with it fit-wise. It's the only true 1/48 KIT of the TA-4 (the old Fujimi is 1/50) and thus is MUCH better detailed and an easier build than any vac conversion or kitbash (and I've done both in the past!). I'll simply give some observations instead of a detailed review. A) you'll need to add the quilted siding in the cockpits; which can be done with embossed foil or simply criss-crossed scribing. B) the main panels are MUCH less detailed than the side panels and seats. Replace them if that's important to you! I'd recommend looking for an Eduard clored PE set, as it would solve the problem nicely (availability??) C) the kit provides resin upper and lower wing flaps/spoilers w/actuators; but YOU will have to cut the wings apart as they are molded closed/up. This is the first A-4 I've ever built with the flaps up! D) an intake/engine front is provided but the fit is marginal; I made intake covers instead! E) The separate bottom rear fuselage panel is a different twist on Skyhawk assembly; fit is marginal F) my kit had 4 resin ejection seats, 2@ that are slightly different. I don't know which is correct, and I saw NO pull handles in the kit (if they're needed for one of the sets) G) Be prepared to spend more time on fit/ assembly. Don't be afraid to use wire pins to get stronger joins. H) You'll need to come up with the vent that is on the top of the fuselage behind the hump. It's really screwed up on the kit (half-there, half not) so even if you don't put in a vent you'll have to fill and sand there anyway! The rest of the surface details are very nicely done. I) the kit comes with all of the parts to do an aggressor or Israeli A-4, so you'll have some parts left over! With the exception of the intake covers (scratched), the model is OOTB. The markings are from Afterburner Decals "trainer" sheet. They're good decals, but as usual the plain white decals aren't opaque enough and the orange bleeds through. I lived with the "C" on the tail fin, but had to double up on the wing stars/bars. What's the only thing worse than trying to get a star to snuggle down over the wing vortexes? Getting TWO of them to do it! I had to resort to touch up paint....Other than that, the decals handled well and snuggled down nicely. The overall finish is MM gloss white and Testors orange, both thinned with lacquer thinner. The anti-glare panel on the nose is painted while the wing-walks are decals. Comments and critiques welcome! Cheers! GIL
  7. And last of all.... The 3 above show the various detail parts that were scratchbuilt. Sheet plastic, brass and plastic tubing and rod, as well as various pe parts and spare parts were cobbled together to "git 'er done". The sanding and priming (and sanding and priming, and...) stage. Note the piece of sponge used to plug the hatch opening. The final wing fold detail parts added towards the end of the assembly sequence. All that's left is to brush paint them DSB! By the way, there seems to be about a 5 image limit to posts (for future reference). As stated above all comments/crtiques are welcome. Cheers! GIL
  8. Continueing..... The first 3 pics show how the cockpit was made from sheet plastic, spare PE, and spare resin parts. The next one shows the assembled and painted cockpit. The last one shows the vac canopy masked and ready for installation. Note the open canopy hatch. GIL
  9. The forum wouldn't let me put all of the pics I wanted in one post, so here's some in progress pics: The 3 pics above show how the intakes/exhausts were made and installed. The 2 above show the basic wing assemblies and the wing-fold bulkhead structure. GIL
  10. This is the old White Eagle 1/48 vacuform kit. I picked it up for less than $5 a couple of years ago at the 10,000 kit sale in NC. Having built the Czech Master Skynight earlier this summer (commission job), I decided to tackle this for myself while I had all of the reference materials out. Overall, this was NO more difficult than the injection kit; with the addition of the work all vacs need to prepare them for building. The intakes/exhausts had to be scratchbuilt, but then their fit was less work than the CM kit! The same held true for much of the project. Many things had to be built or pirated from the spares box, but I didn't really have to do much extra filling and sanding in compparison. The only other difference was that I decided to fold the wings and drop the flaps (for that more "candid look" ), but that only meant the addition of 2 bulkheads, 6 detail parts, and the support strut for each side. The support struts were made from plastic rod with pieces of plastic insulation from a length of wire cut and slipped onto them I also decided to opt for the "early" F3D version in overall gloss Dark Sea Blue. I used a small bottle of Testors dark blue and added about 5 drops of gloss black, mixing both in a standard MM mixing jar. It was cut with lacquer thinner and airbrushed on until I got the blue-black I wanted. My interpretation of '48-53 Navy DSB is pretty wide; some being almost black while others have a sea-green/gray cast. This mixture allows you to add coats until you get the hue you like. By the way, I use a different mixture for the more grayish DSB. Also, there is some countershading on the model, but it's difficult to get it to show up in pics The markings are from the CM kit. The interesting twist to that was that CM gives you 2 LEFT side squadron flashes! I didn't realize this until I started to apply the second one on the right and realized it would be upside down! The solution was simple enough: I cut a new one from solid bright yellow decal film. The CM decals worked well overall, especially the stencils. The borderless stars/bars came from the spares box. The wingtips and fin cap were painted MM bright yellow (over a coat of aluminum). The wingtip lights are clear red/green pieces of plastic sanded to shape and polished. The position lights on the top and bottom were made by Premier and are out of production to my knowledge. And, the final product! One final thought....man does GSB show EVERY little white speck of dust and "stuff" that gets into the finish! Maybe it's time to invest in a spray booth.....Cheers! Comment and critiques welcome! GIL
  11. ghodges

    190d Progress...

    Sweet 'pit! The main panel is especially crisp. It's rare for me to be able to do a long stint at the bench like you did these days. Even if I have the time, it seems that I just don't have the patience for more than about 3-4 hours tops. Hope you can make the same great progress on the rest of the model. I look forward to seeing it done! GIL
  12. Cute! I admire anyone with the talent to draw. I have trouble drawing a straight line, WITH a ruler! GIL
  13. I think you're too hard on yourself! I'm really impressed with the "scale" look to the water....not at all what I expected by your description (napkin=water??) but it worked really well! I also like the chipping you applied. I understand the lack of motivation towards the end of a project, especially if it doesn't meet the expectations you had when you started. However, I think you succeeded better than you think, at least in my opinion! Thanks for posting! GIL
  14. Wow! That's a very pretty build! I especially like the way you wore off part of the wing walks. The weathering looks spot-on to me; not too heavy and not too light. Congrats on a very nice model! Thanks for posting! GIL
  15. ghodges


    I don't know of any one website that would have that info, but it can be found at various sites (per era) and in various books of course. Are there any particular pilot types/eras that you're having trouble finding? GIL
  16. ghodges

    1903 Wright Flyer

    Personally, I like the coloring...it looks dead-on to me! And, since you were able to rig that puppy, you can tackle anything with 2 wings with confidence! Thanks for posting! GIL
  17. Thanks for explaination. It sounds like an interesting way to use clear coats to add weathering and character! Cheers! GIL
  18. Looks fine to me! I particualrly like the wood finish on your struts and your prop. Obviously, the judges did too! Thanks for posting! GIL
  19. Very pretty! What did you use for your bleached linen? Thanks for posting! GIL
  20. It never ceases to amaze me how many WWII airplanes I'm NOT familiar with. Nice model of a more obscure type! Thanks for posting and congrats on a great build! GIL
  21. It was my understanding that the door edges were painted red to be easier to spot as "down" when the a/c was in the landing pattern, as well as to make them a bit more visiable when crawling around under the a/c. I've never seen the interior edges (mating surfaces) also painted red. The exception would be the entire interiors of flap wells and speed brake wells; which werre painted to alert other a/c in the formation that those items were being deployed. Anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! Cheers! GIL
  22. ghodges

    Libery Bell 7

    Nicely done Jeff! Something not seen every day, and I particualrly like the way you displayed it. Thanks for posting! GIL
  23. Check out many of the on-line shops for Aeromaster and Superscale deals. They made the most USN 50's stuff. Superscale (or old Microscale) made sheets of plain white/black letters and numbers in several sizes and scales. They also made modex sheets (Navy, Marines, etc), as well as sheets of stars/bars; with and without the red stripes. You can use those sheets in tandem to make up serial numbers, squadron markings, and plane numbers that you might not find on a standard decal sheet. If you can't find those, try your local hobby shop for dry transfer lettering. Look in the TRAIN department for Woodland Scenics letters. They make many different sizes/fonts/colors of letters that you can use as a decal, or as a paint mask. If your LHS can't help you, try a local art supply store or architecture supply store for the dry transfer lettering. If you can't find a specific sheet for your subject, the toughest part will be squadron patches/logos. There are ways to scan them, resize them, and then print them onto decal paper. Although it sounds complicated, it's easier than freehand painting! Best of luck! GIL
  24. ghodges

    Aircraft Support

    If you're interested in 1/48 stuff, you might check out the Gasoline (French??) line of vehicles. They make a lot of things that you don't see here in the states, though I'm not sure how "modern" their line is. Best of luck! GIL
  25. Yet another problem solved by "more hose"...... SB
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