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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. Decided to do some "old scool" modeling. I hadn't built anything WWI in a while and had the desire to flog myself with the task of rigging...... I have the Windsock book on this plane, but it says there are NO pics or drawings of the interior (and no surviving examples). That left me to build a "generic" WWI German interior. Above is the main floor, seat, stick, rudder pedals, rudder cables, and floor compass. That thing on the back of the cockpit bulkhead is the rear jump seat. This gives a better view of the fold-down jump seat. Why that? I just reasoned that the rear gunner would have to have a place to sit that could also be stowed out of the way when he took his standing firing position. I have NO idea how accurate it is...... This shows the floor in position in the left fuselage half. You can see the pe throttle and the map case. The boxes in the rear are for extra Parabellum gun ammo drums. The rib detailing on the sides is strip plastic; again, purely guess work. Other side. Note the auxilary fuel pump and more ammo storage. I also have the main panel built, but broke my tripod while trying to take the close-up pic of it. This shows the engine, exhaust piping, and the forward Spandau gun temporarily in place to check fit. The pe gun cooling jacket is glued to the old kit gun, with a new barrel aded to finish it off. I didn't detail the breech since it will be buried in the fuselage and under the top wing. Anyway, making some progress and I even have a new idea to try out that will hopefully make the rigging easier to do. More in a week or so! Merry Christmas! GIL
  2. Hey Dougie! As you ponted out, there doesn't seem to be much "technical" info covering that subject, so how's someone going to prove you wrong!? I'd simply follow two guidelines. First, look at the available pics and copy that to you're own criteria. Second, I would try to avoid a large contrast between any finish on the stores and the finish of the model. Even if one is flat and the other glossy, I'd still try to keep it within the bounds of "scale appearance". Of course that can be tough until you've got the whole thing together and can view it as if you were looking at the real thing from 75ft (but you get the idea). Best of luck! GIL
  3. If the piece fell off after using Tenax, you must have not used it correctly. Tenax and Weld-On#3 (or #4) are WELD type cements. You DO NOT apply them to one part, apply more to the other part, and then join them together. It will evaporate before you can join the parts, and then a part will fall off later. Instead, you hold the parts to be bonded together (barely together, not tightly) and apply the cement to the seam or joint with a fine brush or fine tip applicator. If it's a seam, capillary action will take the cement about 1/4" down the seam. After about 2-3secs, squeeze the seam and it will weld together. If done properly, a small amount of "molten" plastic may pop up from the seam, helping to fill it. You repeat this action all the way around the parts. The point about it evaporating rapidly is a good one. You don't want to leave the bottle open if you're not using it! The Testors and Tamiya thin cements are good stuff, and friends of mine swear by them. Me, I prefer industrial grade Weld-On #4. I buy it by the pint can (10 at a time) which saves a TON of money compared to buying bottles of cement at the hobbyshop. Hope this helps! GIL
  4. ghodges


    There's no blasphemy in having fun! If you haven't told me it was prepainted, I wouldn't have guessed, especially after you improved it. It's a great looking model. It may be debatable as to whether you could enter it in a contest; but then we don't have to build EVERY model for a contest do we? Looks like you came up with a way to save time and yet get a model you always wanted on your shelf! Thanks for posting! GIL
  5. You got some done, and that's better than none! I managed to get 13 done, and have high hopes for #14 and an outside shot at #15, as I'm working on both! It's not a contest. You build at whatever pace is comfortable for you and that life allows. Thanks for posting the pics! You have every right to be proud! GIL
  6. That's a cool mouth on that SLUF! As I mentioned above, note the stark contrast between the top camo and the bottom color. The bottom color also seems to match the MER rack and the nose wheels, which are white. IMO it's just too much contrast/coincidence for the bottom to be LG36622. Anyway, it's pics like those that I based my color scheme on. Cheers! GIL
  7. This is another of those projects begun with high hopes and finished with a "whew, got it done!" It's not that I'm unhappy with it; it just didn't turn out as well as I'd hoped, and I have no one to blame but myself! The Hasagawa 1/48 A-7D is a nice kit of '80s vintage. You can get a lot of aftermarket for it, and I threw in a Black Box interior. The two notes about that are: 1) the resin coaming may need trimming in order to allow the windshield to fit. This is especially true if you throw a new PE HUD on top of it (as I did). 2) The canopy rear bulkhead and the canopy breaker triangles immediately behind the seat interfered with each other. The canopy would not fit in the proper open stance until I removed them. Since this is an original issue kit, the bombs and the multi-ejection rack had to come from the spares box, and are mostly from the Hasagawa weapons set. The good news is that this kit has just been re-issued (at a higher price!), BUT it now includes most all of the sprues from the Hasagawa bomb set so you won't need to dig for ordnance. I copied the color profile from the rear of the first "A-7 in Action" book". These markings are included on the kit sheet. The kit decals worked OK, but not perfectly, as I still ended up with a few small areas of silvering. They also took forever to loosen off of the backing paper, probably due to their being almost 20yrs old! I primered with the Tamiya Fine White Primer (spray can) and decided to leave this as the bottom color. References say the bottom of the SEA camo should be 36622 Light Gray. However, after looking at color pics and profiles, it seemed that the white would work. It doesn't bother me. Hope it doesn't bother you! The weathering was done by streaking pastels randomly in the direction of airflow. I used some of the MIG powders for this. They worked well, and a little goes a long way! (Good stuff!) As stated up top, there are just so many little glitches (like installing the windshield coaming and forgetting to FIRST put in the main panel!) with subsequent repairs that by the end of the project I'm just pleased to get it done! I met my goal of building a 'Nam era SLUF, so in the end this taught me that it's only a model, and when things don't go the way you like; finish it up, set it on the shelf, and move on to the next one! By the way, this is the 3rd Has. 1/48 A-7 I've built (the previous 2 were Navy A-7E's) and the A-7D is tougher, since you generally need to put the wings straight and all of the control surfaces up. The Navy bird with everything folded and drooped is an easier build! Cheers! GIL
  8. Thanks for the tip Bob! Don hit the nail on the head; as I want to copy the message before it gets lost in cyberspace (when it doesn't want to post). I'll try the cntrl+C next time. Cheers! GIL
  9. To add a question also in the "response" category...why is there no ability to "copy" what you've written after you hit "select all"? It's not even an option in that pop-up window, nor anywhere (that I can find) in the icons above. I'll write a response and on occasion it will not want to post. You can see that it's going to take too long and go to the "window not found" error message; and that's when I'd like to quickly copy the response and print it in my "word" file, so I can then re-copy it back to a new response box and not have to try to retype the entire message (only to have the same thing happen again). Is adding a "copy" option a viable alternative? Thanks! GIL
  10. That cockpit detailing is phenomenal! It looks like it's bigger than 1/72, which makes it all the more amazing. Keep us posted as this will be an educational and impressive build. I look forward to more pics! GIL
  11. They're even more impressive in their "natural" setting. Looks like you'll get the better of the ship model in the end! GIL
  12. Take the following advice with a grain of salt, as I have very little experience with the "filters" you're asking about. I think you can use either solvent, making the choice on how tolerant your skin and nose are to them. The key is to use them VERY sparingly AND to be sure you have a base coat (preferably acrylic) to protect the base colors. Since the dots are oil paint and dry very slowly, you have a lot of time to streak them and then remove more and more paint to tone down the streaking. Using a very small amount of the solvent allows you to control the paint removal without applying "wet" solvent that may soak into the base coats. Make sense? Hopefully someone with more experience will be along shortly to give some more experienced advice. Best of luck! GIL
  13. James and all: I've had some problems with the black Sharpies....I like to make the black stripes on a white tailhook with a finepoint Sharpie; much easier than painting. However, you have to let it dry for a day and thenl ightly flat coat it, or the ink will run. You have to be more careful with gloss coats since you generally apply them "wet", and that'll cause the blank ink to run. I think that's the main reason you've never seen people do preshading with a Sharpie....it's the easiest method, but it either runs or bleeds therough the next coast of paint! GIL
  14. Very nice! Are they 1/350, 1/700, aor somewhere inbetween? If so, are you going to put them on any ship in particular? Cheers! GIL
  15. ghodges

    Su-15 1/48

    Wow! That thing has a nose like a "shaped" charge! I like the wiring in the wells; nice touch! Keep us posted! GIL
  16. Thanks for the explainations. Where did you get the .004 stainless steel wire from, and what do you cut it with? Sounds like a great item to have on hand! GIL
  17. That's a pretty Albatross! I've heard great things about those Eduard biplanes, but have yet to tackle one. Is that the kit lozenge decals, or did you use aftermarket decals? Your rigging looks good too. What method/material did you use? Thanks for posting! GIL
  18. Naaaahh.....it's just still digesting that Zero that it swallowed whole! Looks great to me and it sounds like you had fun! What more could ya ask for? Thanks for posting! GIL
  19. Now THAT'S IPMS service with a smile! I learn something new and Tim get's pointed to where he can buy what he needs! Thanks! GIL
  20. I have couple of ideas, that may or may not solve your problem. I just had a similar problem on my 1/48 Skynight. The vac canopy was masked with Tamiya tape for quite a time, due to the amount of filling and sanding needed to finish and also due to procrastination on my part, adding to the length of time to get the painting finished. By the time I pulled off the canopy masks, they'd been on there at least 5-6 weeks, and had endured at least 2 primer coats and a coat of interior green followed by another coat of gloss dark sea blue. I found the clear parts to be cloudy, which I too thought was tape adhesive, except it wasn't sticky. I think it was one of two things. The first possibility is that the multiple coats of paint (and I use enamels and lacquers) allowed for the seepage of some of the solvent through the tape and onto the Future coat on the canopy. The second was that the Tamiya tape DID leave a residue on the surface, but that its residue just isn't tacky like most tape residue is. I've had this problem on a couple of rare occasions, and I need to add that not only may time be a contributing factor, but also temperature. I model in the garage here in Florida, and during that build the temps in the garage averaged at leat 85deg each day, and perhaps that affected the Tamiya tape. I was afraid to try to use any kind of solvent on the vac canopy as I considered to too thin to sand and polish. I also didn't want to try to disolve the Future on the canopy. While this would more than likely solve the problem, it would require more masking and painting on an already decaled and painted model. My salvation was a chisel pointed WOODEN toothpick and the Future itself. The wooden toothpick was soft enough to scrape without scratching, and yet stiff enough (with the chisel edge) to chisel, scrape, and flake the cloudy areas until all of the clear parts were once again clear! I did have some of the canopy frame paint flake of too, but that was simple to touch up with a fine pointed brush. This is what I would suggest you try before attempting to strip the entire canopy. It's tedious, but should work. Take your time and apply enough pressure to flake off the Future, but avoid turning the toothpick so that its sharpest edges may scratch the plastic. When the chisel edge wears down, carve a new one. Best of luck! Gil
  21. Since I have no pride (it was destroyed in contests decades ago! :D ), I'll confess I have NO idea what the "sniper pod" looks like! Could you (or someone) post a pic of it? One of the great things about this hobby is the chance to learn about such things. Besides, I may need to know about it for a 1/48 model some day, and the pic could lead to suggestions on how to make one if it's not commercially available. Thanks! GIL
  22. Congrats to those guys! It's nice to have their talents recognized on BOTH sides of the pond! Telford looked very impressive, even if it was only because of the 463 F-4 Phantoms on the tables! I'd LOVE to have that knd of turnout in Columbus. Hmmm.....think I'll sponsor some tables with the theme: "More Phantoms than Telford!" GIL
  23. Nope, it's correct! You can find WATER SOLUBLE "oil" colors along with the rest of the tube type oils in the art departments at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, and most any other well-stocked arts/crafts store. Be sure to mix a drop or two of liquid dish detergent into water/pigment mix. I've found that these types of washes come closest to having the same flow and color capacities as the reguar oil paint washes, without the odor and risk of using a solvent based wash. You can even do some nice special efects by applying them to flat paint surfaces, which will cause the color to spread out a bit instead of hugging the crevices, making for a nice stained effect. The other advantage is you can buy about 3-4 tubes (black/grey/burnt sienna/tan) and have just about any color wash you'll ever need, as well as having the ability to mix them easily and create any in-between shades. And, each tube should last your for years since you use just a dab of pigment at a time. I mix the wash in left over soda bottle caps, mix it up with a toothpick, and then apply with a fine pointed brush. Another advantage to the "ws oils" is (like their oily bretheren) you can set the cap aside for a couple of days, add a bit more water to it, reconstitute it, and apply it some more! I toss it when the model is completely done, no clean up, no fuss! Cheers! GIL
  24. ghodges


    The "flat thread" sounds interesting, but how do you get it taut, and what do you glue it in with? Thanks! GIL
  25. That's a great demo! As RC, I forwarded it on to my clubs. I hope this is the wave of the future, as there are plenty more techniches I'd like to see! GIL
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